What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Tonyrodz]

The bushings that came with my Hellwig swaybars squeak. Sound like shit. Wish they had zerks.

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

Tonight I got the AC charged and replaced a squeaky pulley on the accessory drive belt tensioner.

 

[Aquamania001]

All new rear brakes. Calipers, rotors and pads. Going to have the emergency brake assembly done next week and front pads. Doing a big refurbish on her.
Milestone this morning:

 

[Aquamania001]

Oh and new wiper blades as well. Seriously considering getting some Energy Suspension parts to freshen up the suspension.

 

[blueinkd]

All new rear brakes. Calipers, rotors and pads. Going to have the emergency brake assembly done next week and front pads. Doing a big refurbish on her.
Milestone this morning:

View attachment 404353

Mine hits 326k and I had the cluster rebuilt shortly after dumping nearly $3k in chassis last year. With the latest engine project, I don't feel one bit bad when my cluster came back with 100k miles. I enjoy this truck too much to let it go. Im on the "budget long gone" phase and will just continue to fix and modify it.

Maintenance and repairs add up quickly, even on basic maintenance these days.

 

[Aquamania001]

Mine hits 326k and I had the cluster rebuilt shortly after dumping nearly $3k in chassis last year. With the latest engine project, I don't feel one bit bad when my cluster came back with 100k miles. I enjoy this truck too much to let it go. Im on the "budget long gone" phase and will just continue to fix and modify it.

Maintenance and repairs add up quickly, even on basic maintenance these days.

That is great! Yeah I am with you. I am keeping my truck forever. It is like a labor of love. Plus I get a kick out of fixing it up. I will be doing some body work next year. I want all the mechanics done first.

 

[blueinkd]

That is great! Yeah I am with you. I am keeping my truck forever. It is like a labor of love. Plus I get a kick out of fixing it up. I will be doing some body work next year. I want all the mechanics done first.

I have a piggy bank going labeled "trans fund" as the current 4l65e needs attention to match the engine rebuild.

 

[blueinkd]

Is it possible for my headers to have damaged the aluminum heater tubes??? Seems like I have a minor coolant leak coming from there. I just checked the Ts up top and it's dry in that area but if I move the aluminum tubes I can see coolant dripping

 

[blueinkd]

Is it possible for my headers to have damaged the aluminum heater tubes??? Seems like I have a minor coolant leak coming from there. I just checked the Ts up top and it's dry in that area but if I move the aluminum tubes I can see coolant dripping

WELL I just confirmed the headers did in fact melt the aluminum heater tubes to the point where they have a curved spot conforming to the header tube. It's now developed a pin hole leak causing a coolant leak at one of the spot touching the manifolds. I'm torn between hitting it with some JB cold weld or buying this super muggy alloy1 repair kit to fix the pin hole. Secondly I will have to move the lines away from the headers to keep them from contacting. Any thoughts or suggestions??? I should have known better than to let them keep resting on the manifolds. I'm trying to keep from buying/replacing the entire heater tube assembly. Maybe even a section of rubber heater hose....

 

[Fless]

R&R'd the Auto HVAC control. Cleaned the two temp controls and checked the bulbs (3 or 4 out). Ordered a new set of bulbs for a future fix.

 

[iamdub]

WELL I just confirmed the headers did in fact melt the aluminum heater tubes to the point where they have a curved spot conforming to the header tube. It's now developed a pin hole leak causing a coolant leak at one of the spot touching the manifolds. I'm torn between hitting it with some JB cold weld or buying this super muggy alloy1 repair kit to fix the pin hole. Secondly I will have to move the lines away from the headers to keep them from contacting. Any thoughts or suggestions??? I should have known better than to let them keep resting on the manifolds. I'm trying to keep from buying/replacing the entire heater tube assembly. Maybe even a section of rubber heater hose....

I wouldn't waste efforts with the J-B Weld. When it fails, it'll just be money wasted and more to clean out before you can solder it closed. You should be able to easily tweak the tubes to clear the header. Don't focus the bend on the one area near the damaged point cuz it'll kink. Try to roll it away by twisting it at a point lower, where it goes under the firewall. There's not a lot of slack, but there should be enough.

 

[blueinkd]

I wouldn't waste efforts with the J-B Weld. When it fails, it'll just be money wasted and more to clean out before you can solder it closed. You should be able to easily tweak the tubes to clear the header. Don't focus the bend on the one area near the damaged point cuz it'll kink. Try to roll it away by twisting it at a point lower, where it goes under the firewall. There's not a lot of slack, but there should be enough.

How do you feel if I trim the tubes where I can add some heater hose with clamps and re route it away from the headers. Something similar to how the hoses clamp onto the water pump. Only thing concerning me is the aluminum tubes needing some sort of flare to create a better seal??

 

[iamdub]

How do you feel if I trim the tubes where I can add some heater hose with clamps and re route it away from the headers. Something similar to how the hoses clamp onto the water pump. Only thing concerning me is the aluminum tubes needing some sort of flare to create a better seal??

I see no problem other than you'll have a rubber hose passing near the header tube instead of an aluminum tube. If you can route it far enough away, sure. Yes, definitely flare the tube or a leak will be highly probable. Personally, I'd drain the line and solder/"weld" it closed and bend it away from the header.

I need to put a bead in mine but the tools to do it are pricey compared to double clamping it.

*EDIT* Found this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=31586

 

[blueinkd]

I see no problem other than you'll have a rubber hose passing near the header tube instead of an aluminum tube. If you can route it far enough away, sure. Yes, definitely flare the tube or a leak will be highly probable. Personally, I'd drain the line and solder/"weld" it closed and bend it away from the header.

I need to put a bead in mine but the tools to do it are pricey compared to double clamping it.

*EDIT* Found this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=31586

I would probably cut it up top 7-8 inches away from the Ts, run the hose behind the ac drier and hook up to the other section. Flaring the lower section would be a pain since it be against the firewall and on the truck.


I may order that muggy weld kit as it should do the job but then I'd be back in the same boat bending the lines.

 

[blueinkd]

I see no problem other than you'll have a rubber hose passing near the header tube instead of an aluminum tube. If you can route it far enough away, sure. Yes, definitely flare the tube or a leak will be highly probable. Personally, I'd drain the line and solder/"weld" it closed and bend it away from the header.

I need to put a bead in mine but the tools to do it are pricey compared to double clamping it.

*EDIT* Found this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=31586

Nice!! So that would solve the flaring issue??? Please excuse my ignorance buy what's the difference with a bead??? One size is 1/2 and what's the other tube 5/8???

 

[iamdub]

Nice!! So that would solve the flaring issue??? Please excuse my ignorance buy what's the difference with a bead??? One size is 1/2 and what's the other tube 5/8???

Correct- The fittings on the firewall (to heater core) are 3/4". The ones to the water pump hoses are 5/8" and the ones for the rear heater are 1/2".

You need the flare cuz the clamp doesn't really cinch down hard enough on a smooth pipe/tube to maintain a leak-free seal. In more dynamic environments, the hose can slip off. Forcing the hose over a bead flare then having a clamp right behind that solves these issues.

Last I researched this, bead flaring tools were $70+. For something exclusively for this one purpose (in this size) and I'd likely never use again, I figured I'd make my own solution. After seeing that one for ~$42/shipped, I'd save myself the hassle and buy it. Maybe even sell it half-off to the next guy that's doing the same thing cuz I'd lose it before ever using it again.

 

[blueinkd]

Correct- The fittings on the firewall (to heater core) are 3/4". The ones to the water pump hoses are 5/8" and the ones for the rear heater are 1/2".

You need the flare cuz the clamp doesn't really cinch down hard enough to maintain a leak-free seal. In more dynamic environments, the hose can slip off. Forcing the hose over a bead flare then having a clamp right behind that solves these issues.

Last I researched this, bead flaring tools were $70+. For something exclusively for this one purpose (in this size) and I'd likely never use again, I figured I'd make my own solution. After seeing that one for ~$42/shipped, I'd save myself the hassle and buy it. Maybe even sell it half-off to the next guy that's doing the same thing cuz I'd lose it before ever using it again.

I just placed an order for that Pegasus 1/2 bead tool

 

[iamdub]

I just placed an order for that Pegasus 1/2 bead tool

Looking forward to the results!

 

[clandr1]

Today I installed a Rhino Rack Pioneer platform. If anyone wants details, here is my thread in the Exterior section:

Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform Installation

Hi all, I recently picked up a like new condition Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform. I plan on installing it using a combination of the items below. Has anyone installed on of these, and if so, can you give me any suggestions or tips? I'm not sure the $315 set of SX100 legs will work with my...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[hertahoe]

I put the full PST offerings on both my Civic and S10 Xtreme. No complaints.




If they haven't been replaced yet, just get new sway bar bushings and end links for now as a cheap and easy up grade. For sway bar bushings on the GM trucks, I'd go with the blue Moog replacements. Cheap and stiff. They might be thermoplastic instead of poly, but it's splitting hairs. They're stiff and not noisy. I think the ones for my Tahoe were something like $7 for both front and $8 for both rear. The Moog end link kits (hardware and bushings) are great and around $7 each ($14 total for both sides).

That is what I will do. Just spent close to $1500 for all the front end stuff, including the body bushings. Didn't need to replace hubs and axles, but decided to. Thanks for the feedback. I'm starting the front end refresh now. It's only 85 outside and it's stifling in garage and I have insulation on the door!