Broken camber bolt, HELP!

[pdxyukon]

Hello all, newbie to the forum looking for help, trying to change upper control arm, nut side broke off in bushing was going to sawzall it off and get a new bolt but wanted to make sure I dont damage the brackets on the frame. Ive read to pry the bracket away enough to get a sawzall blade thru to cut the bolt inside but I cannot get my bracket to move enough to get a good look at the bolt. I cut and ripped away the rubber bushing and was just going to sawzall thru directly below the rubber layer, will this work? On the picture i uploaded the red circle is where i peeled away the rubber and planned to cut, the blue circle is where im wondering is this protruding circle part of the frame bracket or part of the control arm that is jusg so corroded/ undercoated that it looks like it is part of the bracket.

Thank you so much for reading my long post and any wisdom y'all might share to guide me along!

 

[pdxyukon]

Hello all....

2011 gmc yukon denali btw

 

[gooffeyguy]

First of all, spray that area down with penetrating oil like PB Blaster or something. Also, pick up a new set of upper camber bolts from the auto parts store or online. You might want to get the plates also, because they look pretty rusty, but you may be able to clean them up.

If you have an air compressor use an air hammer to punch the bolt out from the front. If not use a punch or smaller diameter bolt and a hammer to whack the bolt out.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Or, use a Dremel to cut the bolt in the area that you were thinking of using a Sawzall. You'l have more control while cutting and I believe less collateral damage.

 

[OR VietVet]

If this happened in my shop, I would get the torches out and heat it all up and melt the rubber out. Keep fire extinguisher close. The circled blue is the same as the other side. It is the metal shoulder of the bushing. I am so very glad that here in the PNW, we do not have to deal with the rust I see here.

 

[89Suburban]

Here is my "shít bird" way of doing it.

You need to cut off the bolt head too, cut it flush to the alignment shim. Then use a large pry bar to bend the bracket ears far enough apart to get a sawzall blade onto the bolt shaft itself on one or both sides. You can always beat them back straight again with the hammer/prybar. (Be careful not to pop out the locating pins/dowels for the alignment plates in this process.) You MAY get enough room to just cut one side of the bolt shaft out and wiggle it out the rest of the way.

I highly recommend using a cutting blade on a grinder, OR your sawzall blades to cut the main part of the a-arm out of the way to give you more room to work those busing pieces out. That will also give you more wiggle room instead of being one rigid piece to fight and work around.

Once you get the a-arm out, a tapered pry bar fits perfect in the bolt hole to help bend back. Don't bother trying to cut through the bushing. The part you circled in blue is not the frame it is the bushing sleeve. The frame part is all flat.

These blades will be your friend.

DIABLO 6 in. 8 TPI Steel Demon AMPED Carbide Reciprocating Saw Blade for Thick Metal Cutting DS0608CFA - The Home Depot

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[89Suburban]

Here is some inspiration for you.

 

[pdxyukon]

After torching the bolt and PB blasting the hell out of it I was finally able to get it to budge a little bit so I've gotten it to move about a quarter inch of a turn each way I'm hoping I don't have to go as Extreme as cutting through anything today wish me luck

 

[89Suburban]

After torching the bolt and PB blasting the hell out of it I was finally able to get it to budge a little bit so I've gotten it to move about a quarter inch of a turn each way I'm hoping I don't have to go as Extreme as cutting through anything today wish me luck

Good luck!

 

[gooffeyguy]

After torching the bolt and PB blasting the hell out of it I was finally able to get it to budge a little bit so I've gotten it to move about a quarter inch of a turn each way I'm hoping I don't have to go as Extreme as cutting through anything today wish me luck

That bolt doesn't turn that much. It's flat on the sides to fit into the alignment cams and rotate them a bit up/down. The nut on the end is what spins 360°

After you get them off, clean the mounting areas off with a wire brush and use something like Fluid Film or Surface Shield in, on, and around the new bushings, cams, and bolts to help keep them from rusting up

 

[pdxyukon]

What a nightmare, was able to cut through the bushing and through the camber bolt with the sawzall and a diablo carbide blade after ruining 3 bimetal blades trying to cut the end of the bolt off

 

[pdxyukon]

Do I need to remove the struts to get the bolts in / out or is there a trick to getting the new bolts in and old ones out when the strut spring is in the way?

 

[pdxyukon]

I am so very glad that here in the PNW, we do not have to deal with the rust I see here.

unfortunately I'm in the Northwest but Power Chevrolet screwed me over and sold me the truck for 24k with severe undercarriage corrosion, lesson learned about thouroughly checking vehicle before purchasing for a high dollar. worst part is it had a clean carfax until randomly damage report appeared while they had it in their shop for repairs. Lesson 2 avoid the Power dealershits

 

[ivin74]

That bolt doesn't turn that much. It's flat on the sides to fit into the alignment cams and rotate them a bit up/down. The nut on the end is what spins 360

Fyi,
That bolt does turn 360 degrees, you just have to get the alignment washer out off the cam out.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Fyi,
That bolt does turn 360 degrees, you just have to get the alignment washer out off the cam out.

Well yeah, lol

 

[pdxyukon]

Got the sucker out, when putting the new one in the front bracket has almost a quarter inch gap between the bushing and bracket I'm thinking I must have bent the bracket or something?

 

[pdxyukon]

 

[OR VietVet]

Yep, is bent. It will suck down when you tighten.

 

[Geotrash]

Yep, is bent. It will suck down when you tighten.

+1. Mine was similar on my 2007 even though I didn't have any rust or difficulty getting the bolt out. It feels like you're pinching those ears together too much when you finally reach the torque spec but that's just how it is.

 

[Sam Harris]

Here is my "shít bird" way of doing it.

You need to cut off the bolt head too, cut it flush to the alignment shim. Then use a large pry bar to bend the bracket ears far enough apart to get a sawzall blade onto the bolt shaft itself on one or both sides. You can always beat them back straight again with the hammer/prybar. (Be careful not to pop out the locating pins/dowels for the alignment plates in this process.) You MAY get enough room to just cut one side of the bolt shaft out and wiggle it out the rest of the way.

I highly recommend using a cutting blade on a grinder, OR your sawzall blades to cut the main part of the a-arm out of the way to give you more room to work those busing pieces out. That will also give you more wiggle room instead of being one rigid piece to fight and work around.

Once you get the a-arm out, a tapered pry bar fits perfect in the bolt hole to help bend back. Don't bother trying to cut through the bushing. The part you circled in blue is not the frame it is the bushing sleeve. The frame part is all flat.

These blades will be your friend.

DIABLO 6 in. 8 TPI Steel Demon AMPED Carbide Reciprocating Saw Blade for Thick Metal Cutting DS0608CFA - The Home Depot

Get an essential and ultimate addition to your drilling performance with this Diablo Steel Demon Carbide-Tipped Thick Metal Cutting Reciprocating Saw Blade.

www.homedepot.com

Best blades ever!