10 bolt to 14 Bolt, 9.5 sf swap

[5StarCustmSolutns]

im going to say no...the 4l60 has a smaller(and different spline) than 4l80 or 6l80s (which are the same)


pretty much zero problems after this swap also in case anyone wondering...hasnt really been driven much the past couple months but its been beaten when it has
will probably be going back to 3.42 gears after i get it back moving. doesnt really need the extra gearing of the 4.11 with boost

IDK if you'll see this or not being over 3yrs old? but......

A+ for ingenuity, aptitude, and for sharing. Not much better feeling than visualizing something that could work in a place where it's not meant to work, then finding a way to make it work there

If by chance you do see this, what Torque Converter did you go with??

 

[randeez]

IDK if you'll see this or not being over 3yrs old? but......

A+ for ingenuity, aptitude, and for sharing. Not much better feeling than visualizing something that could work in a place where it's not meant to work, then finding a way to make it work there

If by chance you do see this, what Torque Converter did you go with??

All good, as long as the parts are cheap I don't mind giving it a try.
I used circle d for most of the converters. Has been swapped a few times, With different transmissions. Ended up with a big boy circle d triple disc, mechanical diode, billet cover, 252mm I think . I've been happy with them

 

[Geotrash]

IDK if you'll see this or not being over 3yrs old? but......

A+ for ingenuity, aptitude, and for sharing. Not much better feeling than visualizing something that could work in a place where it's not meant to work, then finding a way to make it work there

If by chance you do see this, what Torque Converter did you go with??

Another well-regarded alternative is the BU60FHD from CVC. They're a national rebuilder of transmissions and torque converters and with this model they addressed the shortcomings in the original design. It has a billet cover and a stronger lockup clutch for right around $500 last I checked. I have one in my 2012 which was recommended to me by a local indy transmission shop. Keeps the factory stall and they also use it on the 6l90 so it's pretty stout.

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

All good, as long as the parts are cheap I don't mind giving it a try.
I used circle d for most of the converters. Has been swapped a few times, With different transmissions. Ended up with a big boy circle d triple disc, mechanical diode, billet cover, 252mm I think . I've been happy with them

Word....that where Im leaning also. 1800ish stall. Thanks

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

Another well-regarded alternative is the BU60FHD from CVC. They're a national rebuilder of transmissions and torque converters and with this model they addressed the shortcomings in the original design. It has a billet cover and a stronger lockup clutch for right around $500 last I checked. I have one in my 2012 which was recommended to me by a local indy transmission shop. Keeps the factory stall and they also use it on the 6l90 so it's pretty stout.

I like sound of that.. Like $300 cheaper that can go towards my 9.5" Turetrac

 

[Paul_Kaos]

View attachment 203781 View attachment 203782 View attachment 203780

Okay you are doing the whole thing like Im trying to do... Im doing you one better though and attempting to, eventually, fully h2-ify a gmt800 tahoe. The truck is 2wd but the tabs in the front are such you can unbolt one and the other separates with a grinder and appears you can bolt it onto the receiving frame.

Im still reading so we will see how the 2500 front diff fits into the 1500 front end

Either way I have photoshopped basically perfect upper arms to run 2500 front knuckles on the 1500 gmt820/gmt8004x4 frames and Ive already emailed KSP about maybe them just offering them or doing a group buy or maybe Ill find someone else to just modify ebay arms and fit spohn del-spheres and KSP ball-joints since the eBay units are KSP clones

I wish an existing gmt800 light-duty upper with the right kink in it for leveling kit angles would accept the press in oem units so I could use XRF upper balljoints as well as lowers... But people don't *hate* the KSP units and they *will* be 3qt BJs on a 1500 pickup lol... I dont wanna over cook a cheap tubular upper just to get our camber and fitnent dialed with 8lug knucks up front

Anywho, after I can get all the h2 running gear swapped onto the tahoe, ill be adapting the h2 BE4484 tcase from 27spline to the 24 coming out of a zf6 4x4 trans and essentially sticking th3 two controls from the BW selectable planetary/helical tcase on analog switches, same as the e-lockers, which I then plan to run from relays going to a 7" tablet in the left dash bezel...

Then I also believe I can mildly modify the 2021 fixed 4piston calipers to work on the h2's 4 wheel 13" front tahoe brakes... (H2 is all front brakes )

Im kinda long term thinking of offering a complete kit where others could copy the setup with the addition of the h2 parts and their own 1500 gmt820 vehicle... Like, the custom bits... So people could fairly easily have fully e-lockable awd 8-lug 1500HD tahoes with the biggest brakes thatll go under 17", and it would all mostly work oem+ besides maybe some bugginess from the tablet interface (setting realistic expectations, diy diff locker controllers arent *brilliant* lol)

 

[Paul_Kaos]

Deleting post sorry tmi

 

[swathdiver]

Okay you are doing the whole thing like Im trying to do... Im doing you one better though and attempting to, eventually, fully h2-ify a gmt800 tahoe. The truck is 2wd but the tabs in the front are such you can unbolt one and the other separates with a grinder and appears you can bolt it onto the receiving frame.

Im still reading so we will see how the 2500 front diff fits into the 1500 front end

Either way I have photoshopped basically perfect upper arms to run 2500 front knuckles on the 1500 gmt820/gmt8004x4 frames and Ive already emailed KSP about maybe them just offering them or doing a group buy or maybe Ill find someone else to just modify ebay arms and fit spohn del-spheres and KSP ball-joints since the eBay units are KSP clones

I wish an existing gmt800 light-duty upper with the right kink in it for leveling kit angles would accept the press in oem units so I could use XRF upper balljoints as well as lowers... But people don't *hate* the KSP units and they *will* be 3qt BJs on a 1500 pickup lol... I dont wanna over cook a cheap tubular upper just to get our camber and fitnent dialed with 8lug knucks up front

Anywho, after I can get all the h2 running gear swapped onto the tahoe, ill be adapting the h2 BE4484 tcase from 27spline to the 24 coming out of a zf6 4x4 trans and essentially sticking th3 two controls from the BW selectable planetary/helical tcase on analog switches, same as the e-lockers, which I then plan to run from relays going to a 7" tablet in the left dash bezel...

Then I also believe I can mildly modify the 2021 fixed 4piston calipers to work on the h2's 4 wheel 13" front tahoe brakes... (H2 is all front brakes )

Im kinda long term thinking of offering a complete kit where others could copy the setup with the addition of the h2 parts and their own 1500 gmt820 vehicle... Like, the custom bits... So people could fairly easily have fully e-lockable awd 8-lug 1500HD tahoes with the biggest brakes thatll go under 17", and it would all mostly work oem+ besides maybe some bugginess from the tablet interface (setting realistic expectations, diy diff locker controllers arent *brilliant* lol)

What are you trying to accomplish with this swap?

 

[Paul_Kaos]

What are you trying to accomplish with this swap?

I mean I wrote out a pretty complete picture lol?

 

[Paul_Kaos]

Actually I guess I went into more detail trying to PM the OP since he was knowledgeable and doing the whole truck.

I would like to talk to someone like minded not the poopoo parade...

Are we going to attempt to say a blown 408 stroker pushing a zf6 with a full time 4x4 tcase, 9.5" elocking front and 10" full floater elocking rear diff, with fixed multipiston front calipers and 13" rotors on all four corners wont be epic?

Whats your argument?

 

[Paul_Kaos]

I literally know there are h2 swapped tahoes somebody did one on expedition portal... Strange place for a groundbreaking gmt800 project, maybe it was a burb but 4link gmt820 is all the same lol...

Point is that guy just cut and welded stock forged uppers shorter and Im actually making proper arms in the front...

"Why are you doing this"

I want to?

I will never be able to break it?

Im gonna be doing some kind of competitive offroad shenanigans with it as the truck develops and these parts are the strongest starting point for *what i want*

Ill hold my breath while you write up how my opinions are wrong

 

[Paul_Kaos]

What I want to do will work and someone has done it before...

As far as the actual investment into the 8lug swap, considering Im *already* replacing the axle, and *already* installing all these lift parts, WTF is the difference if I use 8lug parts at the cost of a universal adapter and a brake fitting adapter in the back, and swapping an upper balljoint & having uniballs welded on my upper arms?

Like... Thats honestly what Im looking for help here with advice on the parts I need in the back

Anytime I try to share something cool Im trying to do I get the stock boys, the armchair quarterbacks, and the guy who bought aftermarket stock parts at a markup because the internet has tried yo turn car modding into Forza.

"Whats this guy doing? Everyone knows you build trucks by letting Amazon tell you what fits and buying the most expensive parts!"

 

[Paul_Kaos]

Funny thing is someplace like pirate 4x4 would think this is absolutely sick

The tahoe community is lame

 

[swathdiver]

I mean I wrote out a pretty complete picture lol?

Well Paul, I must have missed it.

I see what you want to do, not the why.

 

[Geotrash]

What I want to do will work and someone has done it before...

As far as the actual investment into the 8lug swap, considering Im *already* replacing the axle, and *already* installing all these lift parts, WTF is the difference if I use 8lug parts at the cost of a universal adapter and a brake fitting adapter in the back, and swapping an upper balljoint & having uniballs welded on my upper arms?

Like... Thats honestly what Im looking for help here with advice on the parts I need in the back

Anytime I try to share something cool Im trying to do I get the stock boys, the armchair quarterbacks, and the guy who bought aftermarket stock parts at a markup because the internet has tried yo turn car modding into Forza.

"Whats this guy doing? Everyone knows you build trucks by letting Amazon tell you what fits and buying the most expensive parts!"

Respectfully, none of us are here to be insulted by a guy looking for free help. We volunteer our time to help people get where they're going. If that's not appreciated, good luck to you, sir.

I know @swathdiver pretty well. He's not here to judge your plans, but rather to understand them so he could guide you appropriately on the options to consider. He has done this swap himself and collaborated with the OP on his 14-bolt swap. He's one of the few experts here on it, and the OP hasn't been on here since last November.

As for me, I did the 14-bolt swap by buying a Suburban 3500 because my intended purpose was towing beyond what the useful load of a 1500 would allow. If I had been wanting to instead improve my 1/4 mile times or beef it up for off-road, but not necessarily carry or tow more, then the swap would've been the right choice for my needs, with some options on top of the basics like a Tru-Trac.

 

[Geotrash]

Funny thing is someplace like pirate 4x4 would think this is absolutely sick

The tahoe community is lame

 

[swathdiver]

Well, now I see what he's trying to accomplish.

It seems he wants to compete with his truck in some off-road adventures.

@randeez did the front and rear swap but used different parts and didn't do 8-lug, he kept the 6-lug setup.

IMO, the 14-Bolt used in our trucks would be an easier swap than the H2s rear differential which is different and has 8 lugs. I wonder if he knows it even exists?

 

[Paul_Kaos]

Well Paul, I must have missed it.

I see what you want to do, not the why.

To be as concise as possible Ive benchmarked my opposition and carrying over as much h2 to a tahoe as possible gets me there fastest.

Some may see 8lug as strange but aside from the big hubs youre getting a lot of bigger everything else...

I feel like when we are talking about credit score items like shit you buy off amazon youll hear "buy once cry once" but I say I want a complete 8lug 2500 capable driveline behind a blown 408ci stroker Im planning to bash gears through using a man pedal and suddenly everyone wants to argue

Im pretty sure Ill eventually break the stock elocker in the h2 diff to be completely honest lol...

"Whats your objective" i mean i have a few but probably in the rawest sense: BLOWING 37" TIRES OFF ALL FOUR CORNERS WITH THE TRUCK PERPENDICULAR TO THE DIRECTION OF TRAVEL? FOR JOY?

 

[Paul_Kaos]

Like I might do some BITD "prerunner (modified stocks) class" stuff with it after the chassis is dialed or I might do some tough truck stuff. Hell sideshow/burnout things you see at some offroad stuff. Itll essentially be spec'd like somebody looked at a raptor R and a TRX and said "best of both, but to 11"

Probably not fit & finish

But a solid response

It bothers me GM wont build one, and the aftermarket ones you see go "here's a luxury prerunner lol"

The closest thing to what Im going for is a jackal but I want a more "rethought from the oem" kinda vibe, hence trying to use as much OEM+ as possible

The truck im building will look like somebody at GM during the GMT80O era build a Raptor R fighter

If folks would help it would get done sooner/easier lol

 

[Paul_Kaos]

I have a poor taste in my mouth Ive had a lot of senseless arguing and contrary bs from the chevy truck scene so Im mostly at this point like "Im 42yo I managed a shop nearly 3 years I dont need a mentor I need facts and part numbers"

I lack a "chevy cd" surely GM was on disks still in this era, ford was? Anybody selling GM shop CDs for like, *every* gmt800 model?

Then I would be speaking more specifics and frankly could determine more with Google

Like I would know GM pt# for the two universal flanges Im trying to marry here...