My 2022 Tahoe Bose Audio Mods

[Max2013]

I don’t know much about the Bose system but I read somewhere, on this forum, that the input signals to the Bose amp are all digital, and that only the outputs to the speakers are analog. I would use the factory subwoofer speaker signal and feed it into either a hi/low converter, or use your new amp’s speaker level input, is so equipped. Using a single X1 cable harness might make it easier to access the wiring, unless you pull the entire rear panel off. The JL Audio package looks good. I wound up installing a single 10” subwoofer between my 2nd row seats. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[mikew2069]

I don’t know much about the Bose system but I read somewhere, on this forum, that the input signals to the Bose amp are all digital, and that only the outputs to the speakers are analog. I would use the factory subwoofer speaker signal and feed it into either a hi/low converter, or use your new amp’s speaker level input, is so equipped. Using a single X1 cable harness might make it easier to access the wiring, unless you pull the entire rear panel off. The JL Audio package looks good. I wound up installing a single 10” subwoofer between my 2nd row seats. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Pic? A shallow mount sub might fit and look good in between the captains.

 

[Max2013]

Will post a photo in a few days. In the meantime here is a drawing I did for the box I built. I covered it with black trunk carpet. You may face the speaker towards the front, or back. You may wish to protect the speaker with a screen if you have small kids, just in case. It has so much bass that I had to install a level control (potentiometer) to make it easier to regulate from song to song.

 

[Stonebx]

Great write up!! I have a question on this particular step. I'm thinking of adding the new JL Stealthbox to my 21 Tahoe (https://www.jlaudio.com/products/sb-gm-5gsuv-10tw3-car-audio-stealthbox-94698). Could I get away with only using the X1 harness or do you think it's easier to just go with a hi/lo converter and pull the signal from speakers? I've done the latter multiple times with no issues. Thanks in advance!!

I recently did the JL Audio Stealthbox with 1 JL Audio XD300/1 amp for the 21 Yukon Denali. What a day and night difference. I had it done by a professional stereo shop. Had a JL Audio line output converter installed to tie everything in perfectly. Amp was mounted on the Stealthbox and all hidden. See pictures attached.

 

[BrokerThis]

@Stonebx Pics of finished product?

 

[Lancecc1]

I recently did the JL Audio Stealthbox with 1 JL Audio XD300/1 amp for the 21 Yukon Denali. What a day and night difference. I had it done by a professional stereo shop. Had a JL Audio line output converter installed to tie everything in perfectly. Amp was mounted on the Stealthbox and all hidden. See pictures attached.

Looks great!! I never thought about mounting the amp to the top of the box, but that makes everything super tucked away. My plan was to mount mine in the cargo storage tray. That way, I have access to the make any adjustments to the amp (if needed) and not have to rip everything out. My amp fits perfectly in there. Drill a hole for the wires in the side of the cargo tray, add a grommet and voila. Do you know what wires they tied in to for the hi/low converter? That's really the only thing that I left to determine. There are a couple of videos for a '21 Silverado where they tap into the yellow/yellow+black combo in the front passenger footwell, but that seems like a long way away from the rest of the gear. I'm hoping to be able to tap into some of wires that feed into the amp that's right next to the sub box. Just need to know what colors.

 

[Stonebx]

Looks great!! I never thought about mounting the amp to the top of the box, but that makes everything super tucked away. My plan was to mount mine in the cargo storage tray. That way, I have access to the make any adjustments to the amp (if needed) and not have to rip everything out. My amp fits perfectly in there. Drill a hole for the wires in the side of the cargo tray, add a grommet and voila. Do you know what wires they tied in to for the hi/low converter? That's really the only thing that I left to determine. There are a couple of videos for a '21 Silverado where they tap into the yellow/yellow+black combo in the front passenger footwell, but that seems like a long way away from the rest of the gear. I'm hoping to be able to tap into some of wires that feed into the amp that's right next to the sub box. Just need to know what colors.

Thanks. I only mounted the amp there to keep it out of sight and unfortunately I use up that space in the cargo storage tray. I did have the same thoughts about being able to access it but with JL Audios recommended settings on the amp to work with that stealthbox I wouldn't need to access it. However, if I didn't use that space I'd mount it the way you did. Unfortunately I don't remember which wires. Honestly once they told me that they'd be able to hook up everything without any special harness I just went for it. Sorry I couldn't be of any help on that! They did tap into that amp near the box.

 

[Stonebx]

@Stonebx Pics of finished product?

Unfortunately this was while they were installing it and how it looked after they finished. Once they replaced all the interior molding and trims you can't tell anything was done. You can see the JL Audio subwoofer through the factory grill a bit. The bass controller was mounted up front on the center console side cubby pockets. Very discreet! Only evidence of anything done is the sound of bass when playing music. Rumbles through the vehicle! In a nice way!

 

[BrokerThis]

@Stonebx How much did the whole set up and install run you, if you don't mind us asking? I haven't stopped by my local cartunes in detroit yet to see if they have access to that jl box

 

[Stonebx]

@Stonebx How much did the whole set up and install run you, if you don't mind us asking? I haven't stopped by my local cartunes in detroit yet to see if they have access to that jl box

I thought I responded to this question. My apologies!
Parts and labor every thing came out to roughly $2500. The stealthbox and amp were on sale as well!

 

[Max2013]

Part-4 Power Supply. I bought a package of 40A Mcase fuses and used one to make a connector to access the rear fuse block. I used the empty fuse F21 Position to provide power. The F21 empty fuse slot was made for a 40A fuse so I felt comfortable tying in at that point for power. I added an in-line fuse holder and I am currently using a 10A fuse in it to power my small amp.​

My small amp, needed a 12VDC, hot-only-with-ignition-on, connection, for the remote (turn on and off the amp) function. I could not find one in X1, X2, or X3 connectors. While snooping around under the Tahoe right hand side quarter panel, I popped of a connector, near the rear, and checked it with the volt meter. I do not what the connector fed, but there was a BROWN wire that was dead, with the ignition off, and it was HOT, with the ignition ON. I tied into it and ran my wire almost straight up and into the right rear side panel, and then under the almost useless tool tray, and onto and into the left side panel where my amp was to be located.​

I mounted the amp, on a board using 1” plastic standoffs to provide an air space between the amp and the wood. The board & amp are tucked in the rear panel where a factory Subwoofer could/would have been for some other GM models. I added a few mounting screws to keep everything in place. The 8”X 8”X20” sub box sets in the floorboard between the rear passenger seats. It is tied down so it can’t slide around.View attachment 386519View attachment 386521View attachment 386520View attachment 386517View attachment 386518​

INCORRECT INFO. PLEASE READ. There is something I need to correct in the 2nd paragraph concerning the 12VDC, hot-only-with-ignition-on connection for the remote turn on and off the amp function. As it turns out, the “Brown” wire, that I mentioned, is not a suitable candidate for this function after all. The presence of the 12VDC, on that wire, goes away shortly after moving the vehicle. As long as the vehicle remains in PARK, the 12VDC is present. My apologies to anyone that may have followed my lead on using that Brown wire as “switched accessory power”. Sorry about that. I did not mislead you on purpose. As a replacement, for that switched power source, I ran a wire and tied into the 12VDC violet wire leading to the front console cigarette lighter socket. So, if you are looking for “switched accessory power”, Don’t use the Brown wire, as shown in the photos, and as I mentioned above.

 

[Fast_AT4]

@Stonebx How much did the whole set up and install run you, if you don't mind us asking? I haven't stopped by my local cartunes in detroit yet to see if they have access to that jl box

They still there on the corner of 8 Mile and Gratiot? Maybe with a newer color than Yellow..lol.

 

[Lancecc1]

INCORRECT INFO. PLEASE READ. There is something I need to correct in the 2nd paragraph concerning the 12VDC, hot-only-with-ignition-on connection for the remote turn on and off the amp function. As it turns out, the “Brown” wire, that I mentioned, is not a suitable candidate for this function after all. The presence of the 12VDC, on that wire, goes away shortly after moving the vehicle. As long as the vehicle remains in PARK, the 12VDC is present. My apologies to anyone that may have followed my lead on using that Brown wire as “switched accessory power”. Sorry about that. I did not mislead you on purpose. As a replacement, for that switched power source, I ran a wire and tied into the 12VDC violet wire leading to the front console cigarette lighter socket. So, if you are looking for “switched accessory power”, Don’t use the Brown wire, as shown in the photos, and as I mentioned above.

Which wires did you tap in to for the hi/lo converter? That's the only piece that I'm missing and can't seem to find the stock pin outs anywhere. I've found them for a 21 Silverado, but I don't know if they're the same. Thanks!!

 

[Max2013]

Which wires did you tap in to for the hi/lo converter? That's the only piece that I'm missing and can't seem to find the stock pin outs anywhere. I've found them for a 21 Silverado, but I don't know if they're the same. Thanks!!

See Page 1 of this posting for pinouts and description of functions.

 

[Lancecc1]

I found a pretty interesting way to improve the low end of the Bose system in my '21 Tahoe. I'm actually a little shocked that I hadn't seen someone try this angle before. I had been looking at the JL Stealthbox, but was having a really hard time separating myself from the $1,200 that they're asking for it. I love JL gear, but that's pretty aggressive for an unpowered sub and box. I did a little searching and realized that AKG has now replaced Bose as the preferred audio provider for the new-gen Escalade. Their stock package includes a 265mm (10.4") sub in the same rear compartment space as the Tahoe sub. I found the part number online and ended up pulling the trigger for $200 shipped from OEMPartsquick.com. I pulled the stock speaker from the box, filled it loosely with Polyfil (this is a standard for all of the boxed I've built) and dropped in a Fosgate Prime R2DS 10" shallow-mount woofer.

The amp is a Boss Audio Riot R1100M. I understand it's not top of the line, but it has worked perfectly for me on multiple occasions in the past. I downloaded the Stealthbox installation sheet from the JL website, namely because it gives you a step-by-step deconstruction of the panels, seat belts, etc. to get to the sub installation location in the rear of the truck. My new box dropped right in and even used the attachment bolts that were already in place. I added washers and M6x1 nut with a Teflon ring to the top two mounting points for more security.

I mounted the amp in the storage space in the rear, drilled a hole in the side, added a grommet to keep it neat/clean and wired it up. It was mounted on the right side of the space so that I would still have access to the controls on the side and not have to bend the power and ground wire in a way that would create stress on the connections. I drilled four holes and used two 1" pieces of flat bar with drilled holes to allow the plastic tray to maintain stability underneath and not pull through the plastic when it was tightened. This part was probably overkill, but it made me feel better about it. I tapped in to the rear door speaker wires for the hi/lo converter, plugged in the RCA cables and fired it up. Side note - I don't have ANC, so I was able to get around using an aftermarket harness or an LCi2. True to form, this set up blows doors, y'all. If my wife rolling her eyes means that I was successful, then I pretty much became president of the world after this one. I am beyond happy.

Sorry for being so wordy, but I tried to include everything that I would have asked in this write up. If I missed something or if you have any other questions, let me know. Have a good one!!

Subwoofer enclosure: https://www.oempartsquick.com/oem-p...UGGYnKpuucxBPFt5Yw49bNduSb7VjdQkaAsK7EALw_wcB

Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Mosfet-Monoblock-Amplifier-R1100M/dp/B004S4XNEO

Subwoofer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C1R9CE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Converter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VM8RU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installation instructions: https://jlaudio.widen.net/s/v9g9c2qdms/sb_gm_5gsuv_man

 

[Max2013]

Lancecc1,...thanks for providing an excellent write-up, good photos, and the product links you listed are invaluable.

 

[BigdawgR6]

I found a pretty interesting way to improve the low end of the Bose system in my '21 Tahoe. I'm actually a little shocked that I hadn't seen someone try this angle before. I had been looking at the JL Stealthbox, but was having a really hard time separating myself from the $1,200 that they're asking for it. I love JL gear, but that's pretty aggressive for an unpowered sub and box. I did a little searching and realized that AKG has now replaced Bose as the preferred audio provider for the new-gen Escalade. Their stock package includes a 265mm (10.4") sub in the same rear compartment space as the Tahoe sub. I found the part number online and ended up pulling the trigger for $200 shipped from OEMPartsquick.com. I pulled the stock speaker from the box, filled it loosely with Polyfil (this is a standard for all of the boxed I've built) and dropped in a Fosgate Prime R2DS 10" shallow-mount woofer.

I'm a bit confused here and apologies if you specified it but are you saying that the Bose enclosure in the Tahoe\Yukon use a different enclosure from the AKG in Escalades? They look to be almost identical unless the size of the subwoofer is different. What kept you from doing the same thing but with the Bose enclosure?

BTW, thanks so much for that write both you and Max2013. I know you say the new sound blows door, but is it indeed that much more noticeable? Are you waking up the neighborhood with this new setup?

 

[Lancecc1]

I'm a bit confused here and apologies if you specified it but are you saying that the Bose enclosure in the Tahoe\Yukon use a different enclosure from the AKG in Escalades? They look to be almost identical unless the size of the subwoofer is different. What kept you from doing the same thing but with the Bose enclosure?

BTW, thanks so much for that write both you and Max2013. I know you say the new sound blows door, but is it indeed that much more noticeable? Are you waking up the neighborhood with this new setup?

Sup, Dawg. (Had to....). Yes, the enclosure for the Tahoe is different than the Esky. The below images show that the stock sub (on the left) in the Tahoe is a shade larger than a 6", while the AKG is actually a 10". The AKG box has an additional lobe (see inside the red box) that extends further over the wheel well. I wasn't able to get an exact ft3 number out of AKG, but they're not hacks. My assumption is that it's pretty close to the 0.7 ft3 of space that Fosgate calls for with the sub I used. If I was going to upgrade/add a sub, I wasn't going to do it with a 6". The fact that the Fosgate literally dropped right into the existing space of the AKG box made the 10 a no-brainer. Do I need a 10? Nope. Do I have a 10? Yep.

Stock Tahoe Sub box

Upgraded AKG Sub box

The Fosgate sub easily weighed twice what the stock sub weighs, so to say that the sound is noticeable would be a massive understatement. The Tahoe's are pretty air-tight, so what you hear on the inside is quite different than what you'll hear on the outside. Outside - you hear a slight thump. The kind that makes you look around and wonder where it's coming from. Inside is a different story. Looking in the mirrors is like having vertigo.

This is my favorite part about the whole thing....absolutely nothing to see. Zero loss of cargo (i.e., golf clubs) space.

Hope this helps!!

 

[kskcheche]

View attachment 394297

Subwoofer enclosure: https://www.oempartsquick.com/oem-p...UGGYnKpuucxBPFt5Yw49bNduSb7VjdQkaAsK7EALw_wcB

The box is on Sale! $122!!

 

[DmaxDenaliXL]

@Lancecc1 This is definitely the way to upgrade. Great plan and you're right--I'm surprised no one else thought of this.
How long did the install take?
Where did you mount the remote level control knob?
I have a Yukon XL Denali. Besides dealing with ANC would there be any other differences you can think of? The enclosure looks to be compatible with the ESV Esky, so I assume it would fit into the XL as well.