Another option…2011 Chevy Tahoe 85k miles - thoughts?

[91RS]

This is a solid point. This Yukon is indeed at a smaller dealership and not a large new car dealer.

They are sending you the additional pictures you're asking for so that's a good sign they're not trying to intentionally hide anything, but I would certainly not buy sight unseen. You should be able to tell if the truck was garage kept by looking at it. Look at the plastics and paint and it should be easy to tell.

 

[ivin74]

Any idea what one would cost to convert over to coils and springs entirely to get out of the air shock aspect of a Yukon? I googled and saw a set for $750 for the parts. I’m not one to do this myself….

Not sure, I have seen a kit out there.

 

[Fless]

Any large $ vehicle purchase like this warrants a pre-purchase inspection, whether that's done by a knowledgeable person familiar with the type of vehicle, or a trusted garage. Offer to pay for such an inspection if the dealer will take it to your chosen inspection place.

They probably won't want to see the results of the inspection, but you could offer it to them. By receiving the results, they'd be morally (and likely legally) required to disclose any issues to other prospective buyers.

 

[iamdub]

Any idea what one would cost to convert over to coils and springs entirely to get out of the air shock aspect of a Yukon? I googled and saw a set for $750 for the parts. I’m not one to do this myself….

It could cost nothing but your time, very little or a lot depending on what it needs and what you want.


If the shocks are okay other than the air part, you can disable the ALC system by removing some fuses. This is the free solution.

If the shocks need to be replaced, the cheapest would be to replace the shocks with regular "dumb" shocks. Disable the ALC system and connect resistors to the plugs that originally went to the shocks for the AutoRide. Good shocks start around $100 for the pair. You can get a pack of resistors off Amazon for about $10 and solder and heat shrink them into the harness or buy plug-in modules.

Next up from this in cost is replacing the failed parts to repair and maintain the system(s).

 

[petethepug]

Parts. That’s the big ticket item right now. In 11 Mo. the Gates accessory belt kit I finally installed increased in price 80%+. Since 2018 the hot galvanized, slotted, x drilled rotors went up 90%+. Ironically the technology and availability of Magnetic shocks has brought the cost down 50% from the dealer pricing.

If, and I say if the mag shocks are toast simply purchase a $250 lifetime guaranteed replacement from Arnott. It’s a 10 min install. That’s how you should be done with it, not cut it’s huevos to save $100. You should hear the compressor run 1-3 seconds ea start up to blow out condensation. If not, inquire with the dealer.

Only a Range Rover will give a better ride than a Yukon or XL Denali. The head bobble and after rock of standard suspension can only be explained when being a passenger in a non Magnetic equipped truck.

We’re on our 3rd AWD XL truck. In our past it was a new 06 and a 100k 08 YXL Denali sold @ 140k and lastly our 120K Escalade Platinum just turning over 170k since ‘20. Both Denali were sold over CMV because they were immaculate and the ride, as I quote from the wives that approved the buying decision.

A good 5 years will sneak up on you before you consider another vehicle. You’ve bought well in a heavily optioned, highly sought after, behemoth good for 300k mi that’s safe due to airbags galore and it’s mass. In this purchase, expect appreciation in value or staying par. Our 09 has appreciated $10k since relocating to CA from TX due to e85 compatibility enabling 55% lower fuel costs.

This article also helps in knowing we made a good pull …

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2021/09/01/why-the-cadillac-escalade-will-be-a-future-collectible

 

[91RS]

I will disagree, as I always do, about Arnott because I think they're junk and handle like crap. The OEM replacement shocks have a lifetime warranty as well.

https://www.gmparts.com/warranty

If you want to delete the Auto/Mag ride the correct way, it will cost just as much as replacing the shocks with OEM and keeping the rest of your OEM parts. You need to replace the front strut mount and springs (front and rear) with non-Auto/Mag ride parts. New springs make a huge difference in the ride quality (whether keeping or deleting). Another option is buying used front shock assemblies from a Tahoe that isn't Auto/Mag ride and then just buy new Bilstein 5100 shocks and either replace the springs or reuse to save money. Anything that is a "quick strut" is crap quality, doesn't last, or handle well and I will continue to stand by this statement. I've driven tons of trucks with Arnott on them and I can tell they're "off" every time. That being said, with only 42k miles you shouldn't have any issues with the shocks for quite a while. The GMT-900 parts last MUCH longer than the junk on the K2's.

 

[Doubeleive]

I'm staring hard at those pics and don't see the crack.... this is why I love this forum. Nothing gets by you guys!

they are all cracked with VERY few exceptions, nothing to worry about it's one of the very few defaults with this generation

 

[Onlyone]

Little car dealers don’t do work to their cars that isn’t required to make them run or pass emissions. Even before this seller’s market they won’t negotiate much and are just fine to sit on the car until the right buyer comes along that will take it as it is. This is why I generally will only buy from new car dealers or private individuals. But since these trucks are all of the age where most of them are at little car dealer, you have to do what you have to do to get something like this.

You don’t have to do anything.It’s called patience and negotiation, while walking away when you need to.

 

[Doubeleive]

the shock parts can be replaced with arnott's with lifetime warranty and a new pump for less than $1500 in parts, then if you really do not want to do it yourself then whatever labor cost is probably less than $500 the old shocks would need to be returned for the core credit.
you could do it yourself in a couple hours with common tools, it's not hard at all, i'm part idiot and if I can do it anybody can
i would try and "negotiate" the price over that factor but there going to come back with it's got low miles so....
I would not suggest getting rid of the autoride it is a nice feature.

 

[91RS]

You don’t have to do anything.It’s called patience and negotiation, while walking away when you need to.

You do if you want a particular truck bad enough. If you don't care what you're buying, then sure, play games and risk missing out. There aren't but a couple of 45k mile 2014's in the country so...