2011 Yukon Denali trans rebuild cost?

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Familyman2112

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Hi All! I bought my 2011 Yukon Denali last March with 82k miles, it now has 91k. I have been chasing a low oil pressure demon for a few weeks, which now seems to be OK. However, I felt the tranny slip while driving over the weekend, only once, when I went over a rough train crossing. I drove the rest of the day without issue. I drove about 3 miles the next day and started feeling the slip more. I checked the fluid, it was dark and low (at the add line). On the way home, the slipping continued getting worse, barely made it up the driveway. I have little doubt that the tranny is a goner and needs to be rebuilt. I am puckering up at the thought of how much this is going to cost. I thought about buying a reman, but the cost would be even higher. Anyone have any thoughts or advice on how much this rebuild should cost? I am assuming it makes sense to have the rear engine seal replaced while the tranny is out. Any other advice pertaining to the trans would be greatly appreciated. I was hoping that buying a decent vehicle with such low miles would give me at least a few years of peace. Not so much. Thank you!
 

Geotrash

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Hi All! I bought my 2011 Yukon Denali last March with 82k miles, it now has 91k. I have been chasing a low oil pressure demon for a few weeks, which now seems to be OK. However, I felt the tranny slip while driving over the weekend, only once, when I went over a rough train crossing. I drove the rest of the day without issue. I drove about 3 miles the next day and started feeling the slip more. I checked the fluid, it was dark and low (at the add line). On the way home, the slipping continued getting worse, barely made it up the driveway. I have little doubt that the tranny is a goner and needs to be rebuilt. I am puckering up at the thought of how much this is going to cost. I thought about buying a reman, but the cost would be even higher. Anyone have any thoughts or advice on how much this rebuild should cost? I am assuming it makes sense to have the rear engine seal replaced while the tranny is out. Any other advice pertaining to the trans would be greatly appreciated. I was hoping that buying a decent vehicle with such low miles would give me at least a few years of peace. Not so much. Thank you!
I would start with a fluid exchange and refill. These transmissions are sensitive to fluid level. I've had good luck with the Valvoline quick lube shops for this service because they use the fluid exchange machines I like.

On the oil pressure item, the most common causes, as perhaps you already know, are the oil pressure sender and the o-ring on the oil pump pickup tube. If I were in your shoes, I would start with the sender and the little screen beneath it. It's the cheapest and easiest likely fix, and you're about due for it to start giving you trouble at that mileage.
 

jdwood1111

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So I have the same truck and almost same mileage, 96k. I had the same slipping feel and took it to trans shops and both said it was fine and the second guy did the fluid and filter for me and it still has what I feel is a slight stumble but it’s more like it can’t decide how many gears it wants to downshift too. I attribute this to maybe my foot but sounds like yours is too far gone. Definitely do the fluid and filter and see if it improves before doing anything else. My shifts are definitely smoother after the service was performed.

Both shops told me they do not rebuild 6l80s anymore because of the labor cost and other variables. They quoted me between $3700-$4500 for a reman unit with a 2-3 yr unlimited mileage warranty.

I have good pressure but have a small oil leak I am trying to chase down. For reference for you, my pressure after just changing the oil to Valvoline synthetic and a purolator boss filter is around 50-55 on startup, 20-25 on hot idle and 38-41 while hot cruising.

I have not dealt with pressure issues but based on reading on this forum, the above is spot on. Geotrash is a very active member here and has already helped me out a lot!
 

Doubeleive

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So I have the same truck and almost same mileage, 96k. I had the same slipping feel and took it to trans shops and both said it was fine and the second guy did the fluid and filter for me and it still has what I feel is a slight stumble but it’s more like it can’t decide how many gears it wants to downshift too. I attribute this to maybe my foot but sounds like yours is too far gone. Definitely do the fluid and filter and see if it improves before doing anything else. My shifts are definitely smoother after the service was performed.

Both shops told me they do not rebuild 6l80s anymore because of the labor cost and other variables. They quoted me between $3700-$4500 for a reman unit with a 2-3 yr unlimited mileage warranty.

I have good pressure but have a small oil leak I am trying to chase down. For reference for you, my pressure after just changing the oil to Valvoline synthetic and a purolator boss filter is around 50-55 on startup, 20-25 on hot idle and 38-41 while hot cruising.

I have not dealt with pressure issues but based on reading on this forum, the above is spot on. Geotrash is a very active member here and has already helped me out a lot!
sounds like a cop-out by the shop, the good shop here does 2-3 a week they charged me $4200 built for 500 hp with a billet converter and all the necessary upgrades and extra clutches, 3yr 100k warranty and mine was probably in worse shape than both of yours.
 

Just Fishing

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that's weird, most shops I have heard of love the 6l80.

I did mine myself, and I have to say it was an absolute delight to work on.

Most likely all you need is a pressure switch rebuild, and possibly some valve body upgrades from sonnax and/or transgo.
most shops should know how to handle that.
however, I suspect they do it as part of the total rebuild package...
 
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Familyman2112

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sounds like a cop-out by the shop, the good shop here does 2-3 a week they charged me $4200 built for 500 hp with a billet converter and all the necessary upgrades and extra clutches, 3yr 100k warranty and mine was probably in worse shape than both of yours.
It sounds like I need to get it towed out by you. The shop is charging $4,200 for the stock rebuild plus $200 to replace the rear main seal.
 

jdwood1111

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Luckily mine seems fine now but I will be doing some more research locally for based on your comments!
 

ScottyBoy

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On average, you're probably looking at about $3500-$4500 to get it rebuilt with GOOD quality parts. You can get it done cheaper if you remove it yourself and bring it in to get rebuilt, but most shops will not warranty it or they greatly reduce the warranty if they don't do the removal and re-install.
 

Joeltz

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Hi All! I bought my 2011 Yukon Denali last March with 82k miles, it now has 91k. I have been chasing a low oil pressure demon for a few weeks, which now seems to be OK. However, I felt the tranny slip while driving over the weekend, only once, when I went over a rough train crossing. I drove the rest of the day without issue. I drove about 3 miles the next day and started feeling the slip more. I checked the fluid, it was dark and low (at the add line). On the way home, the slipping continued getting worse, barely made it up the driveway. I have little doubt that the tranny is a goner and needs to be rebuilt. I am puckering up at the thought of how much this is going to cost. I thought about buying a reman, but the cost would be even higher. Anyone have any thoughts or advice on how much this rebuild should cost? I am assuming it makes sense to have the rear engine seal replaced while the tranny is out. Any other advice pertaining to the trans would be greatly appreciated. I was hoping that buying a decent vehicle with such low miles would give me at least a few years of peace. Not so much. Thank you!
The just got a Jasper installed .. took 3 weeks, they send rebuilt in box - you ship core back for credit. 3 yr 100,000 warranty. The shop mentioned the transmission thermostat cleaning, and new trans cooler is in new radiator for about $500.
I had the V-4..V-8 “DOD system removed last year with Texas Speed parts. Got new front Magnaride Shocks at Chevy.
so My 96,000 mile Tahoe now has 106,000 in my two years of ownership.
Repair costs in 10,000 miles of ownership
total up to ……$10,000 A Dollar A Mile !
It runs and shifts so Smooth . NOW..
Pulled my 18’ fishing skiff like it wasn’t there behind us. Front Hitch means Tahoe is pushing boat back in These days
 

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petethepug

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My 09 Escalade Plat ESV AWD just ate its 6l80 on the highway at 70mph. It was making a war cry like the A/C belt was seized. Then it lost all traction in D. While coasting I slipped it from N to D and it caught in 3rd gear. I limp’d home for 7 mi and arrived at the Indi shop.

The next day it was out and paying $4.6k for an diesel Indi shop to rebuild it. A reman unit from GM had a $6.4k price tag. If there’s ever a problem I’m covered by the Indi shop and I have my original trans case. I don’t want to be stuck with a GM warranty that’s out of stock or has no availability until xx amount of months.

As the repair progresses, I’ll post up.
 

Foggy

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Once the new transmission is done at all is well after a couple hundred miles,
get it tuned (if not done already)
SO much better with the shift points and TCC lockup changed along with
TCC lockup slip modified.. You'll won't believe the difference . Plus you'll get
a ton of miles out of the "new" trans
 

Geotrash

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My 09 Escalade Plat ESV AWD just ate its 6l80 on the highway at 70mph. It was making a war cry like the A/C belt was seized. Then it lost all traction in D. While coasting I slipped it from N to D and it caught in 3rd gear. I limp’d home for 7 mi and arrived at the Indi shop.

The next day it was out and paying $4.6k for an diesel Indi shop to rebuild it. A reman unit from GM had a $6.4k price tag. If there’s ever a problem I’m covered by the Indi shop and I have my original trans case. I don’t want to be stuck with a GM warranty that’s out of stock or has no availability until xx amount of months.

As the repair progresses, I’ll post up.
Sorry to hear that man. Please do share the autopsy results!
 

petethepug

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Lots of very fine metal shavings and definitely burnt trans fluid smell. I'll have to post some pics if the indy hasn't already assembled the slush box yet.
 

NickTransmissions

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Lots of very fine metal shavings and definitely burnt trans fluid smell. I'll have to post some pics if the indy hasn't already assembled the slush box yet.
Ferrous metal or aluminum? Will the trans builder be brazing or reinforcing the welds on the 3-5-R drum? It likes to crack at the factory weld seams…Id also have installed a Sonnax 1-2-3-4 piston as the oe versions like to crack…
 

petethepug

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I doubt he’d be brazing anything. I didn’t get the specs on the components he was using. The conversation kinda went sideways when we start talking about the CTS-V he built and recently tracked with his kids shooting the video and well as his Grand National GNX. I had no idea he built them instead of buying them.
 
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Familyman2112

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Well, here’s an update… Trans was rebuilt and turned. Yesterday, during a road trip with the family, the trans went belly up. I did notice some weird bumps while driving but I figured it was the Illinois roads. I stopped for gas around 270 miles into the trip. The trans would not engage unless I really kicked up the rpm’s. I checked the fluid, it was full but mostly dark and smelled funky. I went to a local AP store and put in some Lucas anti slip, no help. I then pumped out 5 quarts of atf and refilled with 4 fresh quarts and a new bottle of anti slip. There was quite a bit of shavings in the old fluid. Reverse was gone but I rolled it out of the parking spot. Forward gears felt like the brakes were on. I was able to get it going using the manual control, but it stuck in 3rd or 4th.

$4,800 all in, with a 12 month/12k mile warranty and it’s dead again!!! I’m not sure why the fluid was so gnarly with less than 20k on the rebuild.

Should I find a new shop to rebuild it or buy a new trans with a better warranty?
 

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