What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[RAMurphy]

After all the work I did on the AC including replacing the lines that go from the compressor to the rear unit I found the rear fan was intermittent. Upon inspection I saw there was a loose solder joint where the ground connects to the resistor pack. Soldered it up and then found the connector was melted so I replaced that. Now for the first time since I remember I have full rear AC. Yay! The dog loves it.

Outstanding work and perseverance on this one.

 

[MassHoe04]

It wouldn't hurt to verify the Tech 2 version for GM-English is the latest 33.004 before you buy.

@RAMurphy Check anyway, but I got my Tech 2 clone from Chinacardiags in February. It did ship with the latest available version of software. They have and make enough to sell and ship quickly, but I got the sense that they do not carry a huge back-stock of old inventory stockpiled in a warehouse. I don't think they have anything with older versions on units they are currently selling.

Ebay and other outlets, you may run the chance of getting older software. But Chinacardiags... I think you would be safe with them.

 

[MassHoe04]

Tore into my rear hatch this afternoon and after working the existing actuator a few times, I've decided to not replace it yet and see what happens. It appears to be functioning again for the time being. I sprayed some silicone lubricant on the moving points/parts to see if that might help it from seizing up again. I have a spare part on standby if it goes t!ts up again.

Silicone spray lubricant seems to dissipate after a while. My dad was always a fan of white lithium grease (in a spray can) for hinges and latches and other hinged moving parts or sliding/pivoting linkages. The film seems to stay where it needs to a long time. Keeps things loose and rust free. Doesn't seem to attract too much dirt after it dries. Maybe that is the wrong thing to do, but that is what I have been doing for 40 years.

 

[clandr1]

Did you pull the hatch plastics off to get to those parts? How'd you get the hatch open?

Yes. I crawled from the 2nd row into the cargo area, pulled the plastics back where they meet in the middle just below the latch. I was able to see just enough to move the actuator into the unlock position, then I was able to open it from the outside and take the interior plastics all the way off.

 

[Dantheman1540]

How miserable do y’all think swapping motor mounts one at a time without pulling the engine will be? I mean like not even having a hoist out just a jack under the oil pan at most.

Will be using Atomic poly mounts to swap OEM rubbers.

 

[Rocket Man]

How miserable do y’all think swapping motor mounts one at a time without pulling the engine will be? I mean like not even having a hoist out just a jack under the oil pan at most.

Will be using Atomic poly mounts to swap OEM rubbers.

Gravy. Actually I don’t know. The NBS mounts never go bad. Why are you changing yours?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Gravy. Actually I don’t know. The NBS mounts never go bad. Why are you changing yours?

I’m thinking there is to much flex in them during hard clutch dump launches.

 

[iamdub]

How miserable do y’all think swapping motor mounts one at a time without pulling the engine will be? I mean like not even having a hoist out just a jack under the oil pan at most.

Will be using Atomic poly mounts to swap OEM rubbers.

Who pulls the engine just to swap mounts? I jacked mine up from the bottom to change them one at a time. Did the driver side first and left the drinker side bolted down so the engine would roll over a little, giving a hair more working room.

 

[MassHoe04]

Who pulls the engine just to swap mounts? I jacked mine up from the bottom to change them one at a time. Did the driver side first and left the drinker side bolted down so the engine would roll over a little, giving a hair more working room.

1000%!
One side at a time. Leave the side you are not removing loose, but do not remove the bolt or nut completely.
As @iamdub mentions, doing so will allow the engine to stay lined up while allowing it to lift and roll a enough to swap out the other side.

Not impossible if you unbolt everything, but keeping one side lined up speeds the process up a lot and less wrestling!

I did mounts on my 05 Jeep 4.0L. I jacked one side at a time with a floor jack and piece of 2x4 under a solid spot on that side.
Piece of cake!

 

[Dantheman1540]

Who pulls the engine just to swap mounts? I jacked mine up from the bottom to change them one at a time. Did the driver side first and left the drinker side bolted down so the engine would roll over a little, giving a hair more working room.

That’s the plan then, I’ve just never replaced them without having the motor out so wasn’t sure if it would work that well.

 

[MassHoe04]

That’s the plan then, I’ve just never replaced them without having the motor out so wasn’t sure if it would work that well.

My Jeep had a stamped steel oil pan and I didn't want to crush it, so I placed the block of 2x4 under the overhanging lip where the pan and block meet.

Someone would have a specific recommendation for the Tahoe and maybe even some photos of where exactly to place the jack and wood block.

Basically... You want to push up on the engine block, if you can, rather than entirely on the oil pan.

 

[Dantheman1540]

My Jeep had a stamped steel oil pain and I didn't want to crush it, so I placed the block of 2x4 under the overhanging lip where the pan and block meet.

Someone would have a specific recommendation for the Tahoe and maybe even some photos of where exactly to place the jack and wood block.

Basically... You want to push up on the engine block, if you can, rather than entirely on the oil pan.

Oh yeah, I'm not overly concerned about that, the LS oil pans are tough. I just don't want to scratch the powder coating so I'll throw a microfiber towel over the block of wood jack extension.

 

[Rocket Man]

Oh yeah, I'm not overly concerned about that, the LS oil pans are tough. I just don't want to scratch the powder coating so I'll throw a microfiber towel over the block of wood jack extension.

Your oil pan is bedazzled too?

 

[RAMurphy]

Since I had them still in a box and the time, I installed Yella Terra roller rockers (1.8 ratio) this weekend. Reached out BB to see if an updated tune is warranted. I also started the research on purchasing a tech 2. Wow, a bit overwhelmed on the amount of data out there.

BB responded within 12 hours and stated that an updated tune will not be required. Additionally, I put my purchase of a Tech 2 on hold for now. My brother upgraded his scan tool and offered his XTOOL D7 to me. Of course I said yes - it was free. Like I always said the only thing better than a cold beer is a free very cold beer.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Your oil pan is bedazzled too?

Come on man, you know my motto! All glitter errethang.

 

[Rocket Man]

BB responded within 12 hours and stated that an updated tune will not be required. Additionally, I put my purchase of a Tech 2 on hold for now. My brother upgraded his scan tool and offered his XTOOL D7 to me. Of course I said yes - it was free. Like I always said the only thing better than a cold beer is a very cold beer.

I love my Yella Terra’s! Those things are nice.

 

[RAMurphy]

I love my Yella Terra’s! Those things are nice.

The quality is amazing. They look awesome installed. I should have taken pictures.

 

[Rocket Man]

The quality is amazing. They look awesome installed. I should have taken pictures.

I think I can find a pic of mine..,

 

[RAMurphy]

So easy to install too. I bought my 1.8 ratio rockers a couple of years ago, reached out to Roger last week to ensure I would have no issues install on my new engine build and he responded within an hour and we went back and forth during the day. His company's customer service is first rate.

 

[treehan77]

Swapped out the factory Bose amp. Now I have music (other than my aftermarket sub) again yay. And the key in ignition, headlight, and seatbelt dingers all work again. Pretty easy job. For the front two amp screws, I used the ratcheting offset 7mm wrench pictured, plenty of room without cutting holes like youtube haha. Getting them back in is a little tricky, but not too tough. Bought used (supposedly bench tested) OEM amp on eBay for $80. Worked out good. Old amp STANKS horribly.