iamdub
Full Access Member
I have decladded GMC wheels. I preferred the six spokes. Compared to the average weight of 20s, these are considerably lighter and the basic design is why I call 'em "race wheels". I need to paint or powder mine!
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
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I have decladded GMC wheels. I preferred the six spokes. Compared to the average weight of 20s, these are considerably lighter and the basic design is why I call 'em "race wheels". I need to paint or powder mine!
iamdub
Full Access Member
Chevrolet is 5-spoke, GMC is 6.
Growing up doesn't have to suck
Found some more "before" and "after" pics I meant to post here. They're of it right before and after I un-lifted it. I may have posted them in the "What did you do to your GMT900..." thread. Anyway, for documentation purposes: Before with 2/1 lift and 1.5" wheel spacers: After with stock...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
mattbta
Full Access Member
Getting a replacement battery was a test of my patience, but I got what I paid for purchasing at Wally World. So far, so good. Will take it on an extended drive and likely need to get a tender/maintainer since my driving is so irregular.
I had small hope it might fix my random no-fire condition, but nope. Still need to put that OEM cam sensor on but it's still effing hot here.
I had small hope it might fix my random no-fire condition, but nope. Still need to put that OEM cam sensor on but it's still effing hot here.
SnowDrifter
Full Access Member
Drove it and filled up with corn from a closer new station; has a much better price ($2.699) than the one I usually frequent, which was $3.399 when I looked on GasBuddy.com. Went from 55% to 67% as measured by the Tech 2. Wish I could find an Ethanol PID for my Torque Pro app.
clandr1
Full Access Member
Well, I replaced my rear liftgate doorlock actuator at the end of June 2021 with an AC Delco OEM unit, and it just failed again today (I'm assuming, I haven't torn into it yet). Disappointing that the first one lasted 16 years and this one lasted 15 months.
Any recommendations on what brand I should use? OEM again?
Any recommendations on what brand I should use? OEM again?
I had the same issue with a Trailblazer. I ended up removing the linkage for the rear window. The window is in the locked position. The actuator just didn't have enough power to unlock the door and window at the same time. New linkage/bushing might of fix this but I can live with the window not opening.
treehan77
TYF Fiend
Got in and no sound at all today. 05 Bose with a Sony radio that’s worked for a few years fine. Also no seatbelt or key in ignition dinger either. Smells like fried electronics. Sony radio works fine, even steering wheel controls etc still work. Hooked up an external speaker to its RCA outputs and it plays, so I’m assuming the Bose amp is what let the magic smoke out. Ordered a “tested” used one on eBay for $80, take a week or so to get here. Can’t imagine what else it could be, the metra adapter seems to work, and doesn’t smell like the amp area when I popped the cup holders out whew weee
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
WOW! That is a lot cheaper! Your regular 85 Octane is about the average price we are seeing here in Western MA. Not terrible, based on recent prices. But nothing compared to two years ago...
P.S.: What do you think was discussed at the corporate board meetings, when they were deciding what name should be picked for the new fleet of gas stations?
Every middle-schooler must be ROFL when they see that one! Probably ranks right up there with having to say the name of the highest lake in South America.
I think Friendly's deciding to name their Sundaes "Happy Ending" was a bit of a marketing mistake... But, that one still cracks me up when I see those commercials.
Since I had them still in a box and the time, I installed Yella Terra roller rockers (1.8 ratio) this weekend. Reached out BB to see if an updated tune is warranted. I also started the research on purchasing a tech 2. Wow, a bit overwhelmed on the amount of data out there.
What kind of data are you talking about? I bought mine from Chinacardiags, I think it was. If you get the Tech 2 be sure to get the GM software 33.004.
I believe I read your earlier post and went to the chinacardiags and selected tech 2 and there are many options listed. Until I really dig through these option/versions not sure which way to go. It's a bit confusing actually.
Here's what I see on that web site. You have a choice of the same Tech 2 equipment, one with no case and a $74 shipping charge; the other is with a case and free shipping. Same device and connectors. In the graphic I was on the "Carton Pack."
When you pick the other two options, for your GM truck you'll want the GM English software (Version 33.004).
The "version" with/without the key is for the TIS2000 software that comes for a Windows XP computer. Get the free key, but you don't need it unless/until you use a computer with the Tech 2. Doing that is optional but you can program modules with the Tech 2 and a computer. The TIS2000 software for the computer has all of the calibrations for your 2002 and you don't need the online account (no $) to use it that way. It can be a bit finicky to configure a WinXP computer to program so you may never want to do that, but it can be done.
Hope that helps.
This is perfect. ThANK YOU!
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Yeah... I didn't see the option for the case before I clicked buy now.
But, this cooler pack I already had on hand fit the Tech 2 perfectly. Plus it has comfortable shoulder straps to grab and go.
Soft padded inside, a little rigid to offer protection. I had one of these, so I did not end up getting the case.
I can leave the cable connected and coiled up, saving the main connector from constant wear and tear mounting/dismounting.
Chinacardiags shipped really fast, was DHL in less than a week. Scan tool was top quality and the little I have used it already, has paid for itself and saved me a tow home.
It wouldn't hurt to verify the Tech 2 version for GM-English is the latest 33.004 before you buy.
I have a long enough soft tool bag (18"?) that allows me to store everything and leave the main cable connected. I never use the CANdi module since my truck is earlier than when it's needed.
clandr1
Full Access Member
Tore into my rear hatch this afternoon and after working the existing actuator a few times, I've decided to not replace it yet and see what happens. It appears to be functioning again for the time being. I sprayed some silicone lubricant on the moving points/parts to see if that might help it from seizing up again. I have a spare part on standby if it goes t!ts up again.
After all the work I did on the AC including replacing the lines that go from the compressor to the rear unit I found the rear fan was intermittent. Upon inspection I saw there was a loose solder joint where the ground connects to the resistor pack. Soldered it up and then found the connector was melted so I replaced that. Now for the first time since I remember I have full rear AC. Yay! The dog loves it.
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Did you pull the hatch plastics off to get to those parts? How'd you get the hatch open?
