What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Merc1973

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Finally finished my NNBS brake upgrade. After an overnight soak with PB Blaster, the hard line to rubber hose connection freed up. Other wise i was ready to run a new line from ABS to drivers wheel well. Had to drill, tap and helicoil a control arm and both knuckles for barke hose hold downs. Its worth it to buy the most expensive drill bits. New Harbor freight titanium bits with 118° edges do not work at all. These Milwaukee with 135° cut amazingly and with some oil of course. I killed one Napa drill bit and only used one Milwaukee bit with plenty of life left. That knuckle steel is HARD! I just finished bleeding and the pad bed in process, so far they seem much better, its still early though .

A note about the PowerStop kit. The caliper slides were not greased, the slde pin bolts were randomly torqued with one being about 100 ft/lbs and the caliper bracket surface where it mounts to the knuckle is uneven and bumpy due to the thick red paint. FYI, i used a file to flatten the mating surface.
 

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ivin74

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I put these big boogers on, and Goodridge hoses (it’s been a two day affair… maybe three- I work slow). Had to shave the ridge a smidge to clear my rolling stock.

View attachment 378673

My driveway was sad when I scratched this one… :-( But that was before I shaved the ridge, so it got some touch up paint. Driveway is happier now.

View attachment 378674

Nooj

Did you notice a stopping difference after the install?
 

S33k3r

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Installed another heater hose today after a parts delivery and got the OEM tees in, pressure tested the system. No leaks. Now waiting on the new rear ac refrigerant lines to be delivered. Finally stopped buying more parts. I think. ;)
Why stop now -- out of sadness, or out of money? :angels2:
 

MassHoe04

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Finally finished my NNBS brake upgrade. After an overnight soak with PB Blaster, the hard line to rubber hose connection freed up. Other wise i was ready to run a new line from ABS to drivers wheel well. Had to drill, tap and helicoil a control arm and both knuckles for barke hose hold downs. Its worth it to buy the most expensive drill bits. New Harbor freight titanium bits with 118° edges do not work at all. These Milwaukee with 135° cut amazingly and with some oil of course. I killed one Napa drill bit and only used one Milwaukee bit with plenty of life left. That knuckle steel is HARD! I just finished bleeding and the pad bed in process, so far they seem much better, its still early though .

A note about the PowerStop kit. The caliper slides were not greased, the slde pin bolts were randomly torqued with one being about 100 ft/lbs and the caliper bracket surface where it mounts to the knuckle is uneven and bumpy due to the thick red paint. FYI, i used a file to flatten the mating surface.
You're not kidding when you say the steel is hard! I was not patient enough and did not have time to soak the screw that holds the passenger side brake hose clip onto the upper control arm. I snapped the screw, then snapped my DeWalt drill bit. Luckily, I had enough of the hole open that I was able to start a bolt and get just enough of it threaded to hold the clip in place. Worked out OK. You won't find many slotted screws on a Tahoe, but it is what I had that did the job... (You can see it to the right side of the control arm.)
20220526_104530.jpg
 

blueinkd

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I put these big boogers on, and Goodridge hoses (it’s been a two day affair… maybe three- I work slow). Had to shave the ridge a smidge to clear my rolling stock.

View attachment 378673

My driveway was sad when I scratched this one… :-( But that was before I shaved the ridge, so it got some touch up paint. Driveway is happier now.

View attachment 378674

Nooj
Did u find the Goodridge lines to have plenty of slack after installing??? I keep seeing conflicting info on them being to tight or not enough slack, especially with the centric/stop tech. Ok concerned because I did crank the keys a bit to level the truck and I don't want to have brake hoses that don't have any slack
 

corvette744

2004 Z-71
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Finally finished my NNBS brake upgrade. After an overnight soak with PB Blaster, the hard line to rubber hose connection freed up. Other wise i was ready to run a new line from ABS to drivers wheel well. Had to drill, tap and helicoil a control arm and both knuckles for barke hose hold downs. Its worth it to buy the most expensive drill bits. New Harbor freight titanium bits with 118° edges do not work at all. These Milwaukee with 135° cut amazingly and with some oil of course. I killed one Napa drill bit and only used one Milwaukee bit with plenty of life left. That knuckle steel is HARD! I just finished bleeding and the pad bed in process, so far they seem much better, its still early though .

A note about the PowerStop kit. The caliper slides were not greased, the slde pin bolts were randomly torqued with one being about 100 ft/lbs and the caliper bracket surface where it mounts to the knuckle is uneven and bumpy due to the thick red paint. FYI, i used a file to flatten the mating surface.
Please give honest update after you get 500-1000 miles on the new set up alot of curious people.I love my NNBS brakes compared to the stock junk.
 

Tonyrodz

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You're not kidding when you say the steel is hard! I was not patient enough and did not have time to soak the screw that holds the passenger side brake hose clip onto the upper control arm. I snapped the screw, then snapped my DeWalt drill bit. Luckily, I had enough of the hole open that I was able to start a bolt and get just enough of it threaded to hold the clip in place. Worked out OK. You won't find many slotted screws on a Tahoe, but it is what I had that did the job... (You can see it to the right side of the control arm.)
View attachment 379381
Is that a wood screw?
 

Nooj

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Did u find the Goodridge lines to have plenty of slack after installing??? I keep seeing conflicting info on them being to tight or not enough slack, especially with the centric/stop tech. Ok concerned because I did crank the keys a bit to level the truck and I don't want to have brake hoses that don't have any slack
For my stock Z71, there was not a lot of slack. I think they will be fine at the wheels, just make sure what little slack you have in the front is in the right place. The center rear one seemed the tightest- but that was with one wheel hanging in the air. If you go wheeling (articulate the rear suspension much), or have any lift, I’d probably use the 2” longer ones (same part number, with -2 at the end).
 
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corvette744

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My brakes before the install were really warn. I honestly didn’t drive it enough to get a feel for the brakes before the swap, so I can’t say how big of a difference they make…
I installed brand new stock pads and slotted rotors when i got the tahoe.I was towing my boat only 2800lbs or so and could tell i was going to die if i had to do any type of emergency braking.At that point i did the 07-14 brake upgrade and it made a huge difference in stopping power and way shorter distance.I feel safe and anyone i have in the tahoe also.I cant imagine how anyone towed 7500 lbs with the stock junk brakes you have to be kidding me.Im sure their were alot of accidents back then and stilll today because of poor braking in these from towing.
 
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MassHoe04

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Race wheels? Nice lol. They are just 2015 Silverado LTZ wheels decladded and powder coated to match the oem color somewhat. But yeah I love them.
Compared to the 1990's 16" Silverado beaters I had until recently...

Yours would be race wheels! LOL And they do look nice on the truck.

Those old wheels I had would never justify powder coat, that's for sure.
 

Rocket Man

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I ran the new flexible rear ac lines, plumbed everything up, had my buddy recharge it, and I have super cold ac in the front and back of The Beast! My dog and I are happy.

Edit: I just now see the evaporator foam cleaning kit I bought…. So I look up where that ac drain line is and it’s behind the accumulator? The accumulator I just installed?
 

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