Now I've lost interior power

[Phisher]

So back again with the 2002 Yukon I got the no start issue figured out it was the PCM put a new PCM in everything starts just fine but after 3 days now I've lost power to my passenger Windows my sunroof and all my interior lights and my gauge is like to bounce back and forth all of a sudden what can this be I've checked my fuses I see nothing bad there I just don't understand what is this electrical nightmare that continues with this truck

 

[Doubeleive]

Start by checking the battery cables, are they clean? any corrosion?, sometimes corrosion can be hidden and not seen unless you take the battery cables off.
just start there, keep it simple. some of the issue's described above are unrelated to each other. the bouncy gauges would likely be poor electrical connection which is why you would check the battery cables and grounds first. Then see how the voltage is from the alternator while the engine is running should be minimum 13.4v to the battery.

 

[Phisher]

I wish it was that simple with this thing The battery cables are brand new I just put them on not even a week ago All my fuses seem to be good but again my passenger door has no power to the windows the locks my dashboard I cannot turn the lights on for the interior at all my lights on the dashboard itself work My headlights all that work My driver's door works just fine and controls the passenger side just fine The gauge is I figured out that was just a speaker wires that were touching each other so those are capped off I just don't get what's going on with this thing it's no more and fix one and two more things happen somebody's saying it was 125 fuse but I can't find that

 

[Doubeleive]

I wish it was that simple with this thing The battery cables are brand new I just put them on not even a week ago All my fuses seem to be good but again my passenger door has no power to the windows the locks my dashboard I cannot turn the lights on for the interior at all my lights on the dashboard itself work My headlights all that work My driver's door works just fine and controls the passenger side just fine The gauge is I figured out that was just a speaker wires that were touching each other so those are capped off I just don't get what's going on with this thing it's no more and fix one and two more things happen somebody's saying it was 125 fuse but I can't find that

might try a trip to the junkyard and get a passenger door window switch they do go bad, so do the dimmer switches.
you could try taking both apart and clean them with electrical contact cleaner just be careful taking it apart so you don't break anything usually they just pop apart and snap back together. the contacts inside get burnt over time or just get gunky and wont make contact.

 

[mattbta]

Was the PCM programmed to your VIN with all the correct calibrations? Sounds like the PCM and BCM might not be jiving together in its current state.

 

[Doubeleive]

Was the PCM programmed to your VIN with all the correct calibrations? Sounds like the PCM and BCM might not be jiving together in its current state.

wouldn't do anything to the door locks or window, it's either the passenger door switch or the drivers door switch, if it works from the drivers side but not the passenger then the passenger switch is bad, if it doesn't work at all it could be either one or both. door lock could be a relay or the lock actuator is tired. been thru this stuff before. both can be tested with 12v to confirm functional or not, if window motor is functional then it's the switch. if the lock works then it's a relay or switch.
the nbs door switches are kind of there own monster compared to the nnbs which do talk the bcm more. that's why you can add folding mirrors or led mirrors by simply changing the switch, you can't program that function it's in the wiring. If was the fob not working then I would look at other things

 

[swathdiver]

So back again with the 2002 Yukon I got the no start issue figured out it was the PCM put a new PCM in everything starts just fine but after 3 days now I've lost power to my passenger Windows my sunroof and all my interior lights and my gauge is like to bounce back and forth all of a sudden what can this be I've checked my fuses I see nothing bad there I just don't understand what is this electrical nightmare that continues with this truck

Who do you know with a Tech-2?

 

[Phisher]

might try a trip to the junkyard and get a passenger door window switch they do go bad, so do the dimmer switches.
you could try taking both apart and clean them with electrical contact cleaner just be careful taking it apart so you don't break anything usually they just pop apart and snap back together. the contacts inside get burnt over time or just get gunky and wont make contact.

Yeah but to all go out at the same time like that I mean I literally have nothing that works electrical on the passenger side unless run from the driver's door my sunroof doesn't open my interior lights won't turn on from the dashboard I can't roll the passenger window down I checked all the fuses once again the stereo fuse was blowing but all my wires are cut and capped so there's got to be something short in between my cut caps and the PCM

 

[Doubeleive]

Yeah but to all go out at the same time like that I mean I literally have nothing that works electrical on the passenger side unless run from the driver's door my sunroof doesn't open my interior lights won't turn on from the dashboard I can't roll the passenger window down I checked all the fuses once again the stereo fuse was blowing but all my wires are cut and capped so there's got to be something short in between my cut caps and the PCM

sunroof is separate and it will be either 1. switch, 2. motor 3. broken slider gear and it's jammed 4. fuse (pull down the headliner and start probing) most likely it's the switch or the motor.
interior lights is the dimmer switch or there is a short in the light circuit (most likely it's the switch) or a fuse.
passenger door switch can be bad and the driver switch will still work for passenger side.
this isn't that complicated.... has nothing to do with the pcm at all.
get a used door switch from the junkyard and solve one issue at a time
The fact that the drivers door switch works the passenger tells me the passenger door switch is bad, I know because I have had it happen and had it happen more than once or twice. I have a 05 sitting outside that needs a passenger rear door switch, that window works fine from the drivers switch and the last switch I put in it died. If the window wasn't working at all then it's the window motor or the regulator.
I could be wrong I am no expert I am just going off of my experience of dealing with these vehicles for the last 35 years

 

[Phisher]

Was the PCM programmed to your VIN with all the correct calibrations? Sounds like the PCM and BCM might not be jiving together in its current state.

Yeah it's funny you said that because I took it in had the PCM replaced last week or two weeks now excuse me and when I called him yesterday to tell him things were acting up again he told me that they put the PCM in but did not program it so my 2002 Yukon thinks it's a 2001 Chevy pickup would have been nice if they would have told me that after they charged me $600 to put the PCM in and not program it I wouldn't have paid. My passenger window is now working it just came back on by itself but I still have no dome lights no speedometer and no working sunroof now I've taken my vehicle to two different shops first shop was for the security lockout crap with the ignition and all that that cost me close to two grand and then that ran for about 2 weeks until it shut itself down again and now it was the PCM which cost me $600 it's really nice when you're not able to do things with electronics or computers that they can bend you over and there's really no way to know that you're getting stuck in the ass

 

[Phisher]

Who do you know with a Tech-2?

Nobody and at this point instead of wasting the money I have on two different shops ******* me I should have just bought one myself and my stepfather and I could have figured it out

 

[MassHoe04]

Members weren't kidding when they would tout the benefits of buying a Tech 2 (or finding a friend with one). I thought is was all hype, but having seen how it can speed up DIY diagnosis and save time/money... They were right on!

The Tech 2 can tell you all kinds of things about components like your power windows. Volts in, active/inactive, motor status, etc. You can even command widows up and down even to see how things respond.

All of the information these can give you access to can allow quick and easy diagnosis of many things before getting any tools or multi-meters out.

At least, so far, you got it running!

 

[Doubeleive]

the pcm doesn't care what vehicle it is in as long as the 8th Vin digit is a match, you could throw it in any matching gmt800 suv or pickup
same for a engine swap, that's how lkq, junkyard etc match up engines and ecm's
AND again this would not affect your interior power, not possible. That is controlled by the BCM (body control module)

you might be confused to think a vin T engine would run any different in a pickup or a suv, THEY ARE THE EXACT SAME MOTOR, so because the pcm came out of a pickup or SUV does not matter at all.