How do you replace lower ball joint?

[JamesLond]

After replacing my upper control arm, I looked down and saw that somehow the boot on my lower ball joint split open during the repair.

I looked up info on it for my Yukon, but data seems sparse. One place mentioned I'd have to drill out rivets.

If you know about a dealer tool to do the job, please share the part number on it.

It looks like universal press tools don't work. I also saw some guy on youtube wailing on the lower control arm forever trying to get one out and I'd like to avoid going that route.

 

[OR VietVet]

Best to get the complete lower arm and comes with ball joint and new bushings. If is time for ball joints, it is likely time for bushings. You can go to RA and use their 5% off code and get cheap or quality. I have an 05 Z71 with alll Genuine GM control arms on it and could not be happier.

 

[NoReverseYukon]

Coincidentally, I gave the front suspension parts a good shot of lube today. Doesn't the lower balljoint have a zerk fitting? I couldn't find one, but it might have been hiding.
Do replacements come with a means to keep them lubed?

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

After replacing my upper control arm, I looked down and saw that somehow the boot on my lower ball joint split open during the repair.

I looked up info on it for my Yukon, but data seems sparse. One place mentioned I'd have to drill out rivets.

If you know about a dealer tool to do the job, please share the part number on it.

It looks like universal press tools don't work. I also saw some guy on youtube wailing on the lower control arm forever trying to get one out and I'd like to avoid going that route.

I rebuilt everything on my truck. I used poly bushings as well. Wouldn't go ANY other route. I currently have MEVOTECH ball joints which seem to work quite well. I had previously replaced with Moog and they wore out within a few thousand miles!

Is your truck 4wd? I have to look at my truck but it was pretty straight forward. I believe I had to pull the CV axel though to get at it as well as unhook the steering knuckle. It's way more than doable.

The previous design before NBS is riveted though... If that's what you have 1 Road on YouTube has a tutorial. You drill out the factory ball joint / rivets, then new one bolts on.

 

[swathdiver]

I had previously replaced with Moog and they wore out within a few thousand miles!

CK Series or RK Series?

 

[tRidiot]

I currently have MEVOTECH ball joints which seem to work quite well. I had previously replaced with Moog and they wore out within a few thousand miles!

CK Series or RK Series?

That was exactly my question! I was looking at a full front end rebuild, but life concerns got in the way and funds had to be redirected.

 

[mattbta]

My stock front LCA's had those little steel tabs over the ball joint. I dremel'd/chiseled them away and used a hammer to push the old one out. The press set I rented from AutoZone was able to press in the new and the snap ring holds it in.

 

[OR VietVet]

Trying to answer @NoReverseYukon post but the QUOTE part is messed up right now.

OE ball joints typically come with no grease zerks. If you see no grease zerk, is likely an OE ball joint. Aftermarket ball joints typically come with the zerks.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As stated above, replace the entire control arm, and you'll get a new ball joint and new bushings.

 

[MassHoe04]

Wait... What?!
There's supposed to be bushings in there?

 

[OR VietVet]

Wait... What?!
There's supposed to be bushings in there?
View attachment 367726

Looks like has been submerged in salt brine for quite a while.

 

[swathdiver]

That was exactly my question! I was looking at a full front end rebuild, but life concerns got in the way and funds had to be redirected.

Those RK Series don't last. The CK Series and ACDelco Professional are literally the same items. Sometimes one is less expensive than the other but it is still the same part. Those ACDelco ones also have a GM specific part number too and they as well could cost less or more depending on the vendor and market. Doing your homework can save you a bunch.

 

[MassHoe04]

Looks like has been submerged in salt brine for quite a while.

Just 18 salty New England winters...
I got it in October and have signed up for the unlimited car washes.

That coating of salt was just a month's accumulation before I got the car wash pass.

I'll be crawling around this summer to at least get some Rust-o-leum or P.O.R. on there.

Control arms will get changed out before winter this year.

 

[tRidiot]

Those RK Series don't last. The CK Series and ACDelco Professional are literally the same items. Sometimes one is less expensive than the other but it is still the same part. Those ACDelco ones also have a GM specific part number too and they as well could cost less or more depending on the vendor and market. Doing your homework can save you a bunch.

I don't know how you find out this information - I mean it's not like AC Delco tells you that Moog is a manufacturer supplying the parts to them, is it? I dunno. It is good to know, though, that if I do go with Moog (which I was seriously considering before), the CK is indeed good enough to last. If I spend a bunch of money on my front end and s**t starts going bad again in 10k miles, I'll be driving this truck into a lake and walking away...

 

[JamesLond]

I'm looking at just getting the Moog K6541 ball joint since the LCA bushings seem fine to me. The ball joint looks different from the OEM ones, but I guess it's OK since nobody has really complained about them in reviews.

Nobody has tried to replace just the boots on the OEM ones have they? I'd hate to go through all this replacement when the only real issue is the boot.

I found one guy doing a lower ball joint replacement in a video and though it's for a Suburban, I think everything is similar to my car. I notice he left out the CV axle removal however....

 

[Fless]

I'm looking at just getting the Moog K6541 ball joint since the LCA bushings seem fine to me. The ball joint looks different from the OEM ones, but I guess it's OK since nobody has really complained about them in reviews.

Nobody has tried to replace just the boots on the OEM ones have they? I'd hate to go through all this replacement when the only real issue is the boot.

I found one guy doing a lower ball joint replacement in a video and though it's for a Suburban, I think everything is similar to my car. I notice he left out the CV axle removal however....

The K6541 is good; it's in the MOOG Problem Solver line. Here's what mine looks like after a few years. Don't mind the random road grime.

 

[OR VietVet]

I'm looking at just getting the Moog K6541 ball joint since the LCA bushings seem fine to me. The ball joint looks different from the OEM ones, but I guess it's OK since nobody has really complained about them in reviews.

Nobody has tried to replace just the boots on the OEM ones have they? I'd hate to go through all this replacement when the only real issue is the boot.

I found one guy doing a lower ball joint replacement in a video and though it's for a Suburban, I think everything is similar to my car. I notice he left out the CV axle removal however....

I believe you can get just the boot at an auto parts store in their "HELP" line or the equivalent.

 

[rockola1971]

I have a harbor freight ball joint kit to press out and in them. As far the control arm bushings, I learned a trick from a friend that works on semis for a living. He just torches the bushings and lets them burn and they fall right out. Wire brush the melted rubber and I use a harbor freight 12 ton press that I already have (For building AK47's and AK74's) to press the new ones in. If you are in salt country plan on buying replacement camber adjustment bolts! I had to torch the ones off my Denali because they were so froze up.
Honestly it makes no sense when a front end is worn out to not replace EVERYTHING at the same time. All bushings, tie rods, pitman and idler arm, ball joints and maybe even shocks. Get it all done and pay for one alignment.

 

[91RS]

Best to get the complete lower arm and comes with ball joint and new bushings. If is time for ball joints, it is likely time for bushings. You can go to RA and use their 5% off code and get cheap or quality. I have an 05 Z71 with alll Genuine GM control arms on it and could not be happier.

This.

 

[wjburken]

Nobody has tried to replace just the boots on the OEM ones have they? I'd hate to go through all this replacement when the only real issue is the boot.

Why? In my opinion, putting a new boot on is like putting a bandaid on a dirty wound.