What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

I'm gonna regret starting this in a few hours I bet...
Practiced on one of the rockers I got the other day, and the cast iron pan didn't break! Lol

A bench vise works better.

 

[Walchit]

A bench vise works better.

This worked perfectly. My bench vise is some antique homemade thing, it barely pressed the bushings into my shocks. I will get a pic of it if I remember. It just presses against my workbench, lol

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub
No these are the heads that came on the used engine from the junkyard, 294k, pressure tested at the machine shop.

Ah. Cool.

I only got those other heads because I thought I was getting an updated valve cover. Lol

Ouch. But, you might could have a cheap builder set to mess around with and swap on some day, should you ever feel so inclined.

I gave up on cleaning these rockers and putting the trunions back in.

I first read this as you putting the stock trunnions and bearings back in. lol

The valvetrain is the worst part of building an engine if you like instant gratification or get bored easily. Whatever you do, you gotta repeat it fifteen more times. That's starting from the beginning and ending at the same point fifteen times. You're not looking for improvement and certainly not anything worse. You're looking for continuity- The same shit, fifteen more times.

 

[Rocket Man]

This worked perfectly. My bench vise is some antique homemade thing, it barely pressed the bushings into my shocks. I will get a pic of it if I remember. It just presses against my workbench, lol

Ah, you’re just taking them apart? Putting them back together might be more difficult like that, but you might be ok. I like being able to precisely adjust the trunion. Just make sure they move freely and aren’t binding.

 

[Walchit]

Ah, you’re just taking them apart? Putting them back together might be more difficult like that, but you might be ok. I like being able to precisely adjust the trunion. Just make sure they move freely and aren’t binding.

I got the CHE trunions, they go back in by hand. Part of the reason i chose them...

 

[Walchit]

Ah. Cool.




Ouch. But, you might could have a cheap builder set to mess around with and swap on some day, should you ever feel so inclined.




I first read this as you putting the stock trunnions and bearings back in. lol

The valvetrain is the worst part of building an engine if you like instant gratification or get bored easily. Whatever you do, you gotta repeat it fifteen more times. That's starting from the beginning and ending at the same point fifteen times. You're not looking for improvement and certainly not anything worse. You're looking for continuity- The same shit, fifteen more times.

I can't even imagine trying to put these needle bearings back together,

I found some questionable spots while sanding the inner part of the rocker arms. Had to use three from the extra parts, so I basically got my 50 bucks worth out of them already. Wish I would have found it before I cleaned all of them...

 

[Walchit]

It's hard to tell which side of the snap ring is the smooth side, I think I got them right though.
Now I have to do the other head, lol

 

[iamdub]

It's hard to tell which side of the snap ring is the smooth side, I think I got them right though.

They might have changed up the way they're stamped out to minimize the sharp edge. I'd just lightly drag my finger across each edge at a 45° angle to try to feel which is the smoothest.

Now I have to do the other head, lol

Only gotta repeat yourself eight more times!

 

[Walchit]

I gotta clean the other head a little more, and clean and lap 8 valves, and clean and press put at least 8 rockers too, lol. I might wait till tomorrow, I'm trying to clean up all the bolts and organize them better now

 

[Logan5]

Finally took out all the rusting original brake lines. New SS ones went in. What a sh**ty job that was. Rust and brake fluid everywhere. But got all of them in.

Bleeding everything was not going well until I saw a post from IAmDub about cycling the key on when pumping the brake to cycle the ABS solenoids. Once we did that we had the lines bled shortly thereafter.

Rear bleeder valves were fine but fronts were rusted closed. I ended up just bleeding from the end of the line where it mates to the hose. New calipers are now on my agenda, but I am mobile for the time being.

 

[iamdub]

Finally took out all the rusting original brake lines. New SS ones went in. What a sh**ty job that was. Rust and brake fluid everywhere. But got all of them in.

Bleeding everything was not going well until I saw a post from IAmDub about cycling the key on when pumping the brake to cycle the ABS solenoids. Once we did that we had the lines bled shortly thereafter.

Rear bleeder valves were fine but fronts were rusted closed. I ended up just bleeding from the end of the line where it mates to the hose. New calipers are now on my agenda, but I am mobile for the time being.

Would ya just look at that- My old ramblings were not in vain!

 

[MassHoe04]

Off and on since fall, I have hopped in and turned the key only to have a no-crank/no-start.
I was fearing it might be the Passkey sensor on the ignition switch. After a couple of attempts, it would start and not happen for again some time. OK, it's winter and I really avoid driveway repairs when it is cold and miserable out. So, I put it off.

The last two times it happened, I thought maybe the door latch "open/close" sensor but be faulty. Mainly, because I seemed to get it going right after doing a couple of lock/unlock cycles with the fob. Now we are in a wet rainy weather pattern in New England, so I blew it off again thinking it still starts right up after a couple of hits on the locks.

Until yesterday... Family hops in to head home after celebrating mom's 90th birthday. NOTHING!

Tried the lock/unlock. No luck. Battery is an HD Optima and less than 2 years old. All other systems had power.

I was able to use my Tech 2 to check a few things. Battery voltage was good. The cool thing was being able to get into the menu and actually watch what the ignition switch was telling the computer... I could see the status on the ignition move from Off to Run to Crank. OK - Ignition and passkey probably not my issue. I also was able to see the transmission reporting back on its status while moving from P to 1 and back. Park/Neutral sensor was not my issue.

A few whacks on the starter did not do anything. No clicks, nothing. Based on the other information, I still felt reasonably sure my starter might be the problem.

Towed home. New starter from O'Reilly's. BOOM! Fires right up and does it consistently.

I think having the Tech 2 did help guide me in a diagnosis that seems to be correct.

Here is my starter with unknown time and mileage on it. Might be factory original. It was pretty crusty. Cleaning the terminals on the solenoid may have gotten me started, but why take chances?

Don't hate because I went aftermarket, instead of GM original... It was after 4 and NAPA was closed.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Off and on since fall, I have hopped in and turned the key only to have a no-crank/no-start.
I was fearing it might be the Passkey sensor on the ignition switch. After a couple of attempts, it would start and not happen for again some time. OK, it's winter and I really avoid driveway repairs when it is cold and miserable out. So, I put it off.

The last two times it happened, I thought maybe the door latch "open/close" sensor but be faulty. Mainly, because I seemed to get it going right after doing a couple of lock/unlock cycles with the fob. Now we are in a wet rainy weather pattern in New England, so I blew it off again thinking it still starts right up after a couple of hits on the locks.

Until yesterday... Family hops in to head home after celebrating mom's 90th birthday. NOTHING!

Tried the lock/unlock. No luck. Battery is an HD Optima and less than 2 years old. All other systems had power.

I was able to use my Tech 2 to check a few things. Battery voltage was good. The cool thing was being able to get into the menu and actually watch what the ignition switch was telling the computer... I could see the status on the ignition move from Off to Run to Crank. OK - Ignition and passkey probably not my issue. I also was able to see the transmission reporting back on its status while moving from P to 1 and back. Park/Neutral sensor was not my issue.

A few whacks on the starter did not do anything. No clicks, nothing. Based on the other information, I still felt reasonably sure my starter might be the problem.

Towed home. New starter from O'Reilly's. BOOM! Fires right up and does it consistently.

I think having the Tech 2 did help guide me in a diagnosis that seems to be correct.

Here is my starter with unknown time and mileage on it. Might be factory original. It was pretty crusty. Cleaning the terminals on the solenoid may have gotten me started, but why take chances?
View attachment 367646

Don't hate because I went aftermarket, instead of GM original... It was after 4 and NAPA was closed.
View attachment 367645

How much was it? I have a commercial acct at Advance and I paid over $90 with a core.

 

[mountie]

I had a similar / but not 'your' similar problem. My Yukon in my garage. With no previous issue, turning the key..... "click"...... I tried again, but looking at the dome lights, they did not dim, headlights did not dim. Bad starter. Starter was $204.00 ( new ).

 

[MassHoe04]

How much was it? I have a commercial acct at Advance and I paid over $90 with a core.

$90?! Bend me over...

I could have gotten reman for $199 + $40 core + tax or new for $218 + $10 core + tax...
I figured I'd just get the new.

 

[Tonyrodz]

$90?! Bend me over...

I could have gotten reman for $199 + $40 core + tax or new for $218 + $10 core + tax...
I figured I'd just get the new.

Guess I didn't do so bad then. It was the 1st time I had to buy a starter for this platform. I was used to the old Chevy starter prices, like $35 lol. A few months later I had to buy another starter for the Tahoe. Gets expensive.

 

[Rocket Man]

I have a rebuild kit for my starter that I’ll get to one day. I think it was about $40. That way I’ll stay OEM for cheap. Last time I looked a rebuilt one for mine was over $200 at RA.

 

[iamdub]

Off and on since fall, I have hopped in and turned the key only to have a no-crank/no-start.
I was fearing it might be the Passkey sensor on the ignition switch. After a couple of attempts, it would start and not happen for again some time. OK, it's winter and I really avoid driveway repairs when it is cold and miserable out. So, I put it off.

The last two times it happened, I thought maybe the door latch "open/close" sensor but be faulty. Mainly, because I seemed to get it going right after doing a couple of lock/unlock cycles with the fob. Now we are in a wet rainy weather pattern in New England, so I blew it off again thinking it still starts right up after a couple of hits on the locks.

Until yesterday... Family hops in to head home after celebrating mom's 90th birthday. NOTHING!

Tried the lock/unlock. No luck. Battery is an HD Optima and less than 2 years old. All other systems had power.

I was able to use my Tech 2 to check a few things. Battery voltage was good. The cool thing was being able to get into the menu and actually watch what the ignition switch was telling the computer... I could see the status on the ignition move from Off to Run to Crank. OK - Ignition and passkey probably not my issue. I also was able to see the transmission reporting back on its status while moving from P to 1 and back. Park/Neutral sensor was not my issue.

A few whacks on the starter did not do anything. No clicks, nothing. Based on the other information, I still felt reasonably sure my starter might be the problem.

Towed home. New starter from O'Reilly's. BOOM! Fires right up and does it consistently.

I think having the Tech 2 did help guide me in a diagnosis that seems to be correct.

Here is my starter with unknown time and mileage on it. Might be factory original. It was pretty crusty. Cleaning the terminals on the solenoid may have gotten me started, but why take chances?
View attachment 367646

Don't hate because I went aftermarket, instead of GM original... It was after 4 and NAPA was closed.
View attachment 367645

If not in professional diagnostics costs and playing parts darts, that Tech2 pays for itself in frustration savings.

 

[Rocket Man]

If not in professional diagnostics costs and playing parts darts, that Tech2 pays for itself in frustration savings.

Yup

 

[Walchit]

Moved up to an 18" kettle on the Hillbilly Hot Tank © today. Started at 65° at 117° now