At first no, then realized the mistake. I then purchase OEM at the dealership. But one of them was leaking again about a month ago but stopped since.
2003 Tahoe coolant system leak or head gasket leak?
- Thread starter tomloans
- Start date
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I am replacing everything including this one for sure. Nearly impossible to get at the oil sensor otherwise.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Here is probably a dumb question ( but I am good at it). I watch these videos on YouTube installing new heads. Nobody seems to care that they are bone dry. Shouldn't you pour some oil on them before first startup?
The bearings of the rockers should have oil or assembly lube packed into them. You don't wanna soak 'em cuz the oil can run down into the bolt holes. I guess if the engine isn't a fresh build, the oil system should still be half-assed primed so oil should get through the lifters and pushrods quickly. Definitely soak the lifters, though. I also use an old push rod to push the plunger of the lifter while it's submerged in the container of oil to purge the air out. I have two square plastic Rubbermaid containers that hold eight lifters each, vertically. I fill them up until they are submerged in the oil then plunge each one until they're solid and have no bubbles coming out. It's like 1.5 plunges each.
I always use a dab of assembly lube on each valve tip before installing the rockers. Then I pour oil all over the rockers, focusing on the pushrod ends before putting the valve cover back on.
Keep the battery on a charger and, before your first start, hold the throttle pedal to the floor and crank the engine for ten seconds. Let the starter rest about a minute then repeat. Watch the oil pressure gauge before you start the cranking, during and after. You should see a little pressure build. After that, unplug the coil packs (the big white main connector in the center of them) and crank the engine some more. This will purge the air from the fuel system as well as circulate more oil. Plug in the coil packs, clear the codes you now have from cranking with the packs disconnected, and start it up as normal. It should fire up just as it always had with no or very minimal sputtering and no or very minimal lifter ticking.
Interesting.....what does that do? Does that sequence of events prevent the engine from starting? Thanks.
I think I need to send you a check!
Can't tell you how much I appreciate your feedback. I also appreciate everyone else as well! Thank you all.It was too cold today. I did absolutely nothing. I was just cold to the bone today - kind of strange for me as I am usually baking all the time. Hopefully I didn't catch COVID or something. The Cylinder heads were shipped today and should have them by Friday. Hopefully Rockauto will also deliver soon. I am going to change out the air conditioner compressor and accumulator as well while I have clean access to the compressor. It has been making noise. Had someone in town that offered the compressor and accumulator for free so I am going to install it and work my way up from there later as I dont have all the parts I want to change out as of yet.
iamdub
Full Access Member
It's a factory function- "Clear Flood" mode. Holding the throttle to the floor (it's actually above a certain high throttle open percent, but we'll just say to floor it) keeps the injectors from pulsing and the coils from firing. It's useful for when you need to crank the engine but not start it, such as to prime the oil system or when diagnosing certain engine troubles. No need to find and pull the fuel pump and other fuses.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I think I need to send you a check!
It was too cold today. I did absolutely nothing. I was just cold to the bone today - kind of strange for me as I am usually baking all the time. Hopefully I didn't catch COVID or something. The Cylinder heads were shipped today and should have them by Friday. Hopefully Rockauto will also deliver soon. I am going to change out the air conditioner compressor and accumulator as well while I have clean access to the compressor. It has been making noise. Had someone in town that offered the compressor and accumulator for free so I am going to install it and work my way up from there later as I dont have all the parts I want to change out as of yet.
As always- just happy to be relevant.
After doing my AFM delete (cam swap, etc.) and head work, I primed my oil and fuel systems. The engine was disassembled for three months. At the first start, it fired up immediately and without the first sputter or tick, as if it was never taken apart.
Thanks! Learned something new today and I'll be using that in the near future.
WHAT'S WITH THE WIRE NUTS?
So the saga continues. As I was messing around with removing and changing out the oil pressure sensor in the back. My socket wrench exploded. A piece of the head came apart into 3 pieces. A very small rubber seal, the push button on top of the head, and a little 1/2 inch by 1/4 inch spring. I managed to gather the seal and the push button thingamajig, but the spring fell into the back of the valley pan onto the camshaft and down. I tried to fish it out with a magnet but it apparently has fallen pretty far down. Since there is no other choice, I poured some cheap oil to be sure it hits the oil pan below. Maybe when I drain it again, before first start, it will come to the drain plug and I can then fish it out with a magnet. Moral of the story is put the valley pan cover on before you fiddle with anything else. What is the chance of my socket wrench falling apart just then and there. Absolutely nuts. I need someone to say, "don't worry about it Tom, it reached the bottom of the pan and all is well".
rockola1971
Full Access Member
The oil drain plug has a magnet on it. It will catch the spring. Spring wont go past the screen on the oil pickup. You're good. FOH GET ABOUT IT!
It was so annoying. I know better to leave an opening like that. The one time I didn't stuff it with a towel, this happens. Thank you!
mattbta
Full Access Member
I was futzing with trying to figure out how to access a head bolt with the DS exhaust manifold already unbolted. My 15mm socket slipped out of my hand, right into one of the runners and down into the y-pipe. I didn't realize at the time that my non-rusted truck allows for easy removal of the y-pipe without breaking studs so I was in a bit of a panic not knowing what would happen with it rattling around. Ended up buying a couple different magnets on a stick and got it.
Shit happens.
Shit happens.
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Dropping stuff in impossible places and spending an extra hour on the project trying to recover nuts and bolts.
You'd think we were related! I got some claw-like grabber tools and extending magnet wands from my Dad. Those get used a lot!
That is usually how my projects go! With the exception of anything being rust-free... I am in New England.
Only thing rust-free on my 04 are the rocker panels. The only reason they are not rusty, is that they don't exist at the moment... Remember, I am in New England.
Quick question. There is a plastic relatively long vacuum hose that connects to the front top of the intake manifold and connects in the back near the back of the engine. I cannot find this in the schematics. Does anyone have a part number for this. It is molded and plastic with connectors on the both sides.
Found it... Part number...
GM 12578233
iamdub
Full Access Member
Spotless. No gasket material, dirt, etc. Yes, this part of the job is no fun. Don't use an angle grinder with buffing pads- you can gouge the surface and put waves in it.
Spotless. No gasket material, dirt, etc. Yes, this part of the job is no fun. Don't use an angle grinder with buffing pads- you can gouge the su
I was afraid you were going to say that. This is turning out to be a big job. But I am getting there.
