What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[gooffeyguy]

Not sure if there are any ABS sensors or wheel speed sensors mounted to the backing plate that would need to be temporarily removed so the axle can be pushed inward to gain access to the C-clips

 

[iamdub]

$70 each, so $140 for the pair? Shit they're $95 each now

$30 each plus $10 shipping. They're not the Grüven ones. Got mine from JTR/Stealth Conversions.

 

[Doubeleive]

taking her on a little weekend road trip to the redwoods and tree's of mystery....... departure is 6am pack your chit..

 

[Sparksalot]

Took thecopcar camping.

 

[Doubeleive]

pre-flight check showed I have the same issue as @Geotrash loose "worm gear" on the tru-cool hose I haven't been diligent on checking stuff lately she has a little post nasal drip, snugged it up should be good for the 700 mile trip

 

[Sobro]

$30 each plus $10 shipping. They're not the Grüven ones. Got mine from JTR/Stealth Conversions.

What's the correct size to order?

 

[Sobro]

I didn't want to bury my above question with the forthcoming wall of text. Last summer, towing the camper from Nashville to Denver, we spent the first night in Columbia, MO and as we were approaching downtown Kansas City steam came out of the vents and the dash went Christmas tree. Fortunately it was midmorning and I had an easy out from the center lane to a quick exit.

In limp mode, I get to the top of the exit, look right and see a C-store a block away. As I get closer, it was pretty busy and the pumps in the small parking lot were going to be a problem for pulling in the rig.

I look at the next block up and see an old fashioned fuel station with two bays open, the glass on two sides on a corner, and bathrooms around the side.

I pull in and see POLICE in big letters, but got in far enough to get the trailer off the street anyway. I park and hop out and see the steam cloud indicating to all what kind of trouble I was in, and was suddenly surrounded by helpful KC cops. I had pulled into an area KCPD fueling and oil change station.

One of the cops pointed out the heater hose broken at the connection while I was still closely examining the radiator. I called Good Sam road service, who promises to tow both your vehicle and trailer, and found that their approved shop was only 4 long blocks up the road I was on.

We waited an hour and a half for a tow that finally called and said it would be another hour or so, and the fueling station manager, who had come in after we parked in his lot asked where we needed to be towed. He said, "Unhook your camper and we'll tow you over", indicating to his worker to fire up the flatbed around back.

Got it to the shop and the owner told me he could cut and clamp or wait for GM parts truck to swing by in a few hours. You all know my answer!

So I currently have one ticking time bomb hose connector and one that's been cut and clamped, with camping season approaching, which is why I need a better than patched up repair.

The KC cops couldn't have been nicer and saved me from arriving at our next campsite after midnight. They didn't even give me much grief after seeing my trailer spare tire cover with a Denver Broncos logo.

 

[iamdub]

What's the correct size to order?

Per their online form:
Size "A" would be 5/8"
Size "B" would be 1/2"
Size "C" would be 3/4"

You can kinda see the numbers written on the ends in the pics in this post: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1451010

BTW, I'd advise you to NOT trim the two rear pipes as I did unless you have a bulb flaring tool. I didn't flare them and tried them as-is and, as expected, had a small leak. Either trim them for clearance and bulb flare them or bend them (careful to not kink 'em!) to get the end far enough away.

Honestly, you'd be just fine with new OEM connectors. This means NO Dorman or any other aftermarket brands! These should ease your mind if the plastic ones give you PTSD from your experience in Kansas.

 

[Just Fishing]

Slowly working on the hoe still.

Last night I re-named her to Hoemare.
Nightmare + Hoe
(Pronounced Hoenir once issues have been sorted)



During my test drives with the line pressure gauges, i started noticing what felt like looseness in the alignment.
When pulling the wheels, i felt it
Probably a loose ball joint.

Didn't look at it too hard, but it just made the list of things to do.
After the engine and transmission issues have been taken care of.

I also made a slight mistake when placing the hoe in the garage.
I was trying to push it back and to the side of the garage to give me max space in there.
Since I'm planning to tackle the engine and transmission together, I need more space.

Got the hoe too close to the back of the garage.
I have my old craftsman toolbox behind it.
And there was a drill press next to that.
Hitch was touching the drill press and was binding on the bumper as i tried to jack the Hoemare up.
So i crawled under the back and pushed that took box back.
And managed to get the drill press on it's side.
Lucky!!

Last night,
Removed front axle to make things easier (+ I'm fkn good at it now... lol )
Got all cooler lines free.
All electrical disconnected and clear of the engine.
Oil Cooler lines all disconnected but not fully removed.
Starter removed
Decided to yank the passenger side transmission mount this time.
Much easier with it off.
Found that it can trap water in the bolts from the top!!
Got some pretty black crap right in my eye.
Spent some time flushing that crud out... lol

When this goes back together, I'll seal the top of that bolt up...
That water has been in there for quite some time.
The hoe has not driven in and has not had the under hood cleaned since summer/early fall...

And the Intake is also Off
Figuring if i do end up tackling the engine to transmission bolts while it's up on jack stands, I don't want the intake to get pinned against the firewall.
Noticed some oil film in my pretty AFR intake ports.
Oil film is the wrong color.
Looks like the oil that I drained from the intake originally.
Also noticed some weird flakes.
almost looks like leftovers of the sparkles...

When I have the engine out, I'll bore scope each cylinder.
Might end up pulling the heads anyways, so i can assess...

I might end up replacing that intake for good measure either way.
Found it's about $200 +/- to replace with a new OEM unit.

I also purchased a proper lifting plate for an LS, since I'm planning to do this with the heads on this time around.
Got it nice and cheap as an amazon return.
but it's for a Gen 3.
Worked perfectly, just has a space in the back.
Taped off to prevent gunk from falling in....


Major tasks today, Pull the Y pipe.
Text my welder and tell him I'm ready to add that extra O2 bung.
Drain and recover Coolant.
Remove radiator and water pump.
Unbolt converter.

Then see if I get any further today...

 

[Just Fishing]

Per their online form:
Size "A" would be 5/8"
Size "B" would be 1/2"
Size "C" would be 3/4"

You can kinda see the numbers written on the ends in the pics in this post: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1451010

BTW, I'd advise you to NOT trim the two rear pipes as I did unless you have a bulb flaring tool. I didn't flare them and tried them as-is and, as expected, had a small leak. Either trim them for clearance and bulb flare them or bend them (careful to not kink 'em!) to get the end far enough away.

Honestly, you'd be just fine with new OEM connectors. This means NO Dorman or any other aftermarket brands! These should ease your mind if the plastic ones give you PTSD from your experience in Kansas.

Thanks!!!
I was looking at that and was unsure what size it actually needed.

And I'm planning to run with my ClampTite for the hose clamp.
So far, I'm pretty impressed with this thing.

Image from when i replaced one of my hoses,

+ I might as well get my money's worth from the tool.
(Youtube it if you want to see how it works)

This was just with a single wrap
You can double, triple, etc.

I'm planning to try a double this time around.
More wrap = even more secure!

 

[Just Fishing]

Oh and I got some good time using my topside creeper last night.

Amazon.com: JEGS Automotive Topside Creeper with Adjustable Height 45.5” to 60.5” - 400 LBS Capacity Mechanic Creeper - Heavy Duty Foldable Creeper for Automotive - 4 Locking Swivel Caster Wheels : Automotive

Buy JEGS Automotive Topside Creeper with Adjustable Height 45.5” to 60.5” - 400 LBS Capacity Mechanic Creeper - Heavy Duty Foldable Creeper for Automotive - 4 Locking Swivel Caster Wheels: Tools & Equipment - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I love this thing.
It made everything soo much easier.

I spent some time drilling some custom height holes for it.
I Figure I'll be adding a few more as this project comes together.
I also slightly modified the pads, the foam stuff they give you just splits and tears quickly.

The first thing I found was electrical tape, so I ended up wrapping it up with that...
I also extended the padding to prevent areas where I see it jabbing my grill and bumper in the future.

Planning to also pad the underside of the top of the creeper.
Where it sits above the truck, I noticed it's doing minor damage to the plastics with my fat ass on it.
Since I have a bunch of foam from the Cold Case radiator, I'll do the same tape + padding treatment with the red pad removed...

 

[gooffeyguy]

That ClampTite tool looks good as long as you have enough working space around the hose

 

[Walchit]

I didn't want to bury my above question with the forthcoming wall of text. Last summer, towing the camper from Nashville to Denver, we spent the first night in Columbia, MO and as we were approaching downtown Kansas City steam came out of the vents and the dash went Christmas tree. Fortunately it was midmorning and I had an easy out from the center lane to a quick exit.

In limp mode, I get to the top of the exit, look right and see a C-store a block away. As I get closer, it was pretty busy and the pumps in the small parking lot were going to be a problem for pulling in the rig.

I look at the next block up and see an old fashioned fuel station with two bays open, the glass on two sides on a corner, and bathrooms around the side.

I pull in and see POLICE in big letters, but got in far enough to get the trailer off the street anyway. I park and hop out and see the steam cloud indicating to all what kind of trouble I was in, and was suddenly surrounded by helpful KC cops. I had pulled into an area KCPD fueling and oil change station.

One of the cops pointed out the heater hose broken at the connection while I was still closely examining the radiator. I called Good Sam road service, who promises to tow both your vehicle and trailer, and found that their approved shop was only 4 long blocks up the road I was on.

We waited an hour and a half for a tow that finally called and said it would be another hour or so, and the fueling station manager, who had come in after we parked in his lot asked where we needed to be towed. He said, "Unhook your camper and we'll tow you over", indicating to his worker to fire up the flatbed around back.

Got it to the shop and the owner told me he could cut and clamp or wait for GM parts truck to swing by in a few hours. You all know my answer!

So I currently have one ticking time bomb hose connector and one that's been cut and clamped, with camping season approaching, which is why I need a better than patched up repair.

The KC cops couldn't have been nicer and saved me from arriving at our next campsite after midnight. They didn't even give me much grief after seeing my trailer spare tire cover with a Denver Broncos logo.

Hopefully those cops at least said that the donkey is what made it break!

 

[Just Fishing]

That ClampTite tool looks good as long as you have enough working space around the hose

Good point.
Since I'll be using this against the firewall, it should be interesting.
With the engine out I doubt I'll have much of an issue.
But should i replace that hose later down the road...

 

[Rocket Man]

Good point.
Since I'll be using this against the firewall, it should be interesting.
With the engine out I doubt I'll have much of an issue.
But should i replace that hose later down the road...

Better plan ahead.

 

[Sobro]

Hopefully those cops at least said that the donkey is what made it break!

If they did I couldn't hear them through their Mahomes haircuts.

 

[Sobro]

Per their online form:
Size "A" would be 5/8"
Size "B" would be 1/2"
Size "C" would be 3/4"

You can kinda see the numbers written on the ends in the pics in this post: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1451010

BTW, I'd advise you to NOT trim the two rear pipes as I did unless you have a bulb flaring tool. I didn't flare them and tried them as-is and, as expected, had a small leak. Either trim them for clearance and bulb flare them or bend them (careful to not kink 'em!) to get the end far enough away.

Honestly, you'd be just fine with new OEM connectors. This means NO Dorman or any other aftermarket brands! These should ease your mind if the plastic ones give you PTSD from your experience in Kansas.

Thanks. Great info. Being this is my first GM vehicle since I inherited my former father in law's '66 Bonneville hardtop 30 years ago there's still a lot of learning happening.

 

[Just Fishing]

Man, nothing like having broken out your crazy high torque impact 1/2in impact that's dedicated to things that "don't want to come off"...
but still needing to use a 3/8in "impact" socket with built in swivel...
Used an "Impact" rated extension to get up in there, but it's also 3/8...
Broke out the face shield and gloves for that one...

Y to manifold is free!

Soaking the band clamp (that's near the muffler)
Silly bolt head is on top.
Not quite sure if I can get an impact up there without dropping the exhaust even further...

And I'm so glad my hoe was garaged most of its life.
So clean under there.
Amazed how clean the exhaust bolts are.


Staring at the bottom of this thing,
I still feel like I didn't miss anything obvious...
Just choose to overlook the many owners, with a few too many of them having it for such a short time.
Reminds me why i decided to buy this one.

Just some PO probably used cheap ass oil and still used the oil change monitor (and probably an extra thousand miles or two)...

 

[Rocket Man]

Man, nothing like having broken out your crazy high torque impact 1/2in impact that's dedicated to things that "don't want to come off"...
but still needing to use a 3/8in "impact" socket with built in swivel...
Used an "Impact" rated extension to get up in there, but it's also 3/8...
Broke out the face shield and gloves for that one...

Y to manifold is free!

Soaking the band clamp (that's near the muffler)
Silly bolt head is on top.
Not quite sure if I can get an impact up there without dropping the exhaust even further...

And I'm so glad my hoe was garaged most of its life.
So clean under there.
Amazed how clean the exhaust bolts are.


Staring at the bottom of this thing,
I still feel like I didn't miss anything obvious...
Just choose to overlook the many owners, with a few too many of them having it for such a short time.
Reminds me why i decided to buy this one.

Just some PO probably used cheap ass oil and still used the oil change monitor (and probably an extra thousand miles or two)...

Just cut that fu*ker off with an angle grinder. Band clamps are cheap.

 

[Doubeleive]

Made it... Highway 36 made everyone car sick except muah and the downgrade coming into the coast heated up the brakes pretty good so I put the downgrade transmission assist to good use, helped a lot.