What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[ratled]

Tagged , next on my to do list

 

[Fless]

After a routine transmission fluid check the other day, I decided it’s a little too brown.. it doesn’t smell burnt, so that’s good. I last drained and filled, with filter change, and vette servo install at 195k miles, and I’m currently at 217, so figure she’s about due.

Trying to locate the best filter.. AC Delco..? Wix..?

Also plan to purchase genuine AC Delco fluid. Does anyone have a good source.? I seem to be running into the same issues with finding parts and fluids with this, as with my Wix oil filters..

I don’t recall if I have the “deep pan” or standard. Would that be in my build sheet, or based on VIN?

Another thing.. I have been using ACDelco oil for the last 1.5 years or so, and am quite happy with it. But can anyone tell me why there are different part numbers on some of the quarts..? I want to ensure this is genuine oil, and not some rip-off..!

Not sure about the rip-off, but one appears to be an AC Delco product distributed by General Motors, and the other looks like a licensed product distributed by AC Delco.

 

[Rocket Man]

After a routine transmission fluid check the other day, I decided it’s a little too brown.. it doesn’t smell burnt, so that’s good. I last drained and filled, with filter change, and vette servo install at 195k miles, and I’m currently at 217, so figure she’s about due.

Trying to locate the best filter.. AC Delco..? Wix..?

Also plan to purchase genuine AC Delco fluid. Does anyone have a good source.? I seem to be running into the same issues with finding parts and fluids with this, as with my Wix oil filters..

I don’t recall if I have the “deep pan” or standard. Would that be in my build sheet, or based on VIN?

Another thing.. I have been using ACDelco oil for the last 1.5 years or so, and am quite happy with it. But can anyone tell me why there are different part numbers on some of the quarts..? I want to ensure this is genuine oil, and not some rip-off..!

I buy Dexron VI (gallons) from Amazon, here’s the p/n. I make sure it’s sold by Amazon.com not a third party and the reviews are all 5 star. As far as deep pan, I’m not sure how to tell from an RPO but the deep pan is almost 3” deep, just measure it, the shallow is about half that. I do not know about the oil part numbers.

 

[NoReverseYukon]

@Sam Harris


The deep pan will have a "step" on it, the standard will be flat across the bottom.

 

[Sam Harris]

Thanks guys. This helps a lot. I’ll measure the pan. I don’t think it has a step in it, but will verify. On a positive note, I already have the lube locker gasket for it.

 

[Walchit]

Pulled the new speed sensor put and compared it to the old one. The old one was noticably longer, so I removed the thicker steel shim and kept the other 3.
Took it for a few test drives, and the ABS light isn't kicking back on, and it isn't activating at low speeds anymore. And the brakes do the Antilock really good on the gravel road. I also bled the brakes after doing the abs pump bleed on the scan tool, it just works the Antilock brakes, so the gravel road probably did the same thing. But afterwards I had my daughter come out and pump the brakes until her leg was tired, lol. Pulled a bunch of really black brake fluid out after that. Brake pedal is feeling really good, and I go back to the alignment shop on Tuesday.
I am throwing a catalyst code now though, I just keep clearing it off, lol

 

[Tonyrodz]

I buy Dexron VI (gallons) from Amazon, here’s the p/n. I make sure it’s sold by Amazon.com not a third party and the reviews are all 5 star. As far as deep pan, I’m not sure how to tell from an RPO but the deep pan is almost 3” deep, just measure it, the shallow is about half that. I do not know about the oil part numbers.

Just in case---

 

[Rocket Man]

Just in case---View attachment 356272

I remember reading this awhile back but forgot that was in the description for the trans fluid. I’m pretty sure the oil has the same disclaimer.

 

[Rocket Man]

My Boost Auto Parts key fob quit working. I swapped batteries with a working one and it’s not that. I did a relearn and the other one programs but not the Boost one so I just decided to order another. That one lasted a few years. Then I needed a black case with metal edges like I had and this ones worn out so I ordered one of those. There goes $60.

 

[Tonyrodz]

My Boost Auto Parts key fob quit working. I swapped batteries with a working one and it’s not that. I did a relearn and the other one programs but not the Boost one so I just decided to order another. That one lasted a few years. Then I needed a black case with metal edges like I had and this ones worn out so I ordered one of those. There goes $60.

It's only money Mark

 

[Rocket Man]

It's only money Mark

Well now I feel stupid af. I had about 4 batteries I was messing with and I swear I measured the voltages on all them and figured there was 2 good ones which I followed up by testing them in 2 remotes and verified but I kinda got frustrated tbh. So this morning I took the battery out of the working fob and put it in the Boost one and it programmed. F*ck. Then I looked closer at the voltages. The batteries say 3v. One was 2.92v and the other 3.21v The 2.9 won’t operate a fob. Then I found a brand new battery, measures 3.27v and was able to program both fobs.

I needed a new case anyway, this ones worn out plus I kinda bent it a bit opening it up. They’re not really made to open up and you don’t need to in order to replace the battery, it has a cover in the back that pops off.

But I didn’t need a new Boost 2015 style fob. It’s already on the way so I can’t cancel it. Anybody want one for $40 shipped? You’ll save $8.95! Makes a great stocking stuffer!

 

[Fless]

Well now I feel stupid af. I had about 4 batteries I was messing with and I swear I measured the voltages on all them and figured there was 2 good ones which I followed up by testing them in 2 remotes and verified but I kinda got frustrated tbh. So this morning I took the battery out of the working fob and put it in the Boost one and it programmed. F*ck. Then I looked closer at the voltages. The batteries say 3v. One was 2.92v and the other 3.21v The 2.9 won’t operate a fob. Then I found a brand new battery, measures 3.27v and was able to program both fobs.

I needed a new case anyway, this ones worn out plus I kinda bent it a bit opening it up. They’re not really made to open up and you don’t need to in order to replace the battery, it has a cover in the back that pops off.

But I didn’t need a new Boost 2015 style fob. It’s already on the way so I can’t cancel it. Anybody want one for $40 shipped? You’ll save $8.95! Makes a great stocking stuffer!

I'll bite. Sending you a PM. Not sure it works on my '04.

 

[Rocket Man]

Sorry guys, I forgot to mention the Boost ‘15 style fob I’m selling only works on the 00-02’s. SUV’s, pickups included. As most of you know the electronics changed in 03. $40 shipped.

 

[Sam Harris]

So I guess everyone agrees on AC Delco, trans filters? no Wix, or anything else..?

 

[Rocket Man]

So I guess everyone agrees on AC Delco, trans filters? no Wix, or anything else..?

I bought ACDelco but I’m sure Wix is fine too. They make quality filters.

 

[ScottyBoy]

So I guess everyone agrees on AC Delco, trans filters? no Wix, or anything else..?

I usually run the WIX transmission filter in mine. The shop that rebuilt my transmission a few years back also suggested WIX.

 

[Walchit]

Does this count? The little green jack that I've been using seemed like it wanted to fold up on me the other day, kept leaning big-time. So I decided I would try to rebuild this one that I got for 20 bucks. I put a $0.97 o-ring in it, and used the old plastic retainer that I mangled up. Seems like it works, but I need to get bearings and bolts for the castors Friday, then see if it will lift the truck.

 

[DurrtyBurB]

After the battery died front/rear actuators we’re all out of wack. Tried the calibration trick and it fixed all front actuators along with one of the rear actuators. The temperature one was stubborn and would not reset. Ended up uninstalling it , opened it up and reset to the middle position. I initially thought the gears were stripped. Pulled the HVAC fuse and went thru the calibration process. It finally reset.

 

[Rocket Man]

After the battery died front/rear actuators we’re all out of wack. Tried the calibration trick and it fixed all front actuators along with one of the rear actuators. The temperature one was stubborn and would not reset. Ended up uninstalling it , opened it up and reset to the middle position. I initially thought the gears were stripped. Pulled the HVAC fuse and went thru the calibration process. It finally reset.

Did you set the temp to the middle on the controls before doing the reset?

 

[Walchit]

My rear heat doesn't work, that's my next mission.