What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Walchit

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I torqued 3 of the bolts to 140, and after I stripped the first one I only went to 120 because I had read if you use antisieze you are supposed to reduce your torque by 15% or something. I only put it on the flat part of the bolt, but I guess some could have gotten on the threads. It wasn't like I had to Hercules them on to get to 140 or anything.
 

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Rocket Man

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@Rocket Man But they didn't on the other side, and this side was visibly cambered out. I pulled the bolts after I posted that pic and they were both stripped out, so I just went and paid 7.99 each for dorman bolts without the cams. Gonna borrow a torque wrench and try to get them back in, and probably replace the ones on the other side. I know I definitely don't recommend the SPC brand bolts, pretty sure they are trash. I was gonna buy the Moog ones, but the reviews on the AutoZone website weren't very good, and one guy said the AC Delco were the same as the Moog, and the dormant were like the OEM ones. Hopefully next week I will have this thing road worthy, I guess we will see...
That’s not good. Have you talked to the shop yet?
 

Walchit

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That’s not good. Have you talked to the shop yet?
I'm just gonna put it back together with these new bolts, and take it in there on Monday. If they don't get it right I guess I will just buy the little alignment level I was gonna buy in the first place.
I'm trying to muster up the motivation to go out and put this side back together so I can test these Antilock brakes, but it's cold and dark now.
 

Doubeleive

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so the wifes 05 5.3 is showing the oil pressure pegged at 80psi, goes right up when the engine is started and gauge goes right back down when engine is shut off
cold engine or hot makes no difference
I hooked up the tech 2, no codes
oil pressure sender shows like 4.7 or 4.9v I was going to take a photo and my phone died
the cluster seems to be working fine, several gauge test's showed all gauges moving all the way and back again
cluster data says showing 80psi, actual reading 125 psi
also doing a cluster test on just the oil pressure it say's it is showing 9.1 psi when it is on 80?, does the something similar for rpms saying it's showing 8 rpm when it's at 6k
the valve covers leak a smidge and I have a new left cover(updated) to put on and gaskets
so I am leaning towards oil sender unit but not sure....
what all would be involved with a mechanical test?
any idea's? experience?
 

Rocket Man

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so the wifes 05 5.3 is showing the oil pressure pegged at 80psi, goes right up when the engine is started and gauge goes right back down when engine is shut off
cold engine or hot makes no difference
I hooked up the tech 2, no codes
oil pressure sender shows like 4.7 or 4.9v I was going to take a photo and my phone died
the cluster seems to be working fine, several gauge test's showed all gauges moving all the way and back again
cluster data says showing 80psi, actual reading 125 psi
also doing a cluster test on just the oil pressure it say's it is showing 9.1 psi when it is on 80?, does the something similar for rpms saying it's showing 8 rpm when it's at 6k
the valve covers leak a smidge and I have a new left cover(updated) to put on and gaskets
so I am leaning towards oil sender unit but not sure....
what all would be involved with a mechanical test?
any idea's? experience?
I’ve never hooked up a mechanical oil pressure tester but I’m pretty sure you need to install it in place of the sensor. I know there’s a place in the block, DS front I believe, to prime the system but I don’t think you can test pressure there. Sorry I’m not much help.
 

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Wes
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I’ve never hooked up a mechanical oil pressure tester but I’m pretty sure you need to install it in place of the sensor. I know there’s a place in the block, DS front I believe, to prime the system but I don’t think you can test pressure there. Sorry I’m not much help.
ya I kind of figured that might be the case, having to pull the sensor to do the test.....
It's going to be cheaper to just swap a sensor and see what happens, can't be much worse than a #8 plug o_O
 

Rocket Man

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ya I kind of figured that might be the case, having to pull the sensor to do the test.....
It's going to be cheaper to just swap a sensor and see what happens, can't be much worse than a #8 plug o_O
I did mine, it’s not that bad. You just have to do it blind. And buy the special socket, a regular one won’t fit in the hole.
 

Fless

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so the wifes 05 5.3 is showing the oil pressure pegged at 80psi, goes right up when the engine is started and gauge goes right back down when engine is shut off
cold engine or hot makes no difference
I hooked up the tech 2, no codes
oil pressure sender shows like 4.7 or 4.9v I was going to take a photo and my phone died
the cluster seems to be working fine, several gauge test's showed all gauges moving all the way and back again
cluster data says showing 80psi, actual reading 125 psi
also doing a cluster test on just the oil pressure it say's it is showing 9.1 psi when it is on 80?, does the something similar for rpms saying it's showing 8 rpm when it's at 6k
the valve covers leak a smidge and I have a new left cover(updated) to put on and gaskets
so I am leaning towards oil sender unit but not sure....
what all would be involved with a mechanical test?
any idea's? experience?

Here's what I measured on my '04.

I didn't find the actual oil pressure reading in the Tech 2 values; I thought it would say but I guess not. Here is what it read for sender voltages at various oil pressures as indicated by the dash gauge:

1637426246500.png


YMMV
 
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Rocket Man

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Here's what I measured on my '04.

I didn't find the actual oil pressure reading in the Tech 2 values; I thought it would say but I guess not. Here is what it read for sender voltages at various oil pressures as indicated by the dash gauge:

View attachment 355941

YMMV

Wonder if one could disconnect the oil pressure sending unit and send a small dc voltage to the gauge through the wiring harness connector? I'm not sure which pins would be the right ones to do that without looking at a wiring diagram.
Pretty sure it goes to the BCM and not to the gauge. It’s not 1970 anymore! You might not want to do that. :lol2:
 

Fless

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Pretty sure it goes to the BCM and not to the gauge. It’s not 1970 anymore! You might not want to do that. :lol2:

Yeah, that came from an old post, one I put up before I knew about it. I should have read through it before posting again! I edited my dicey post.
 
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Walchit

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Its
Did the shims make a difference?
It seemed like it went on fine. The new sensor didn't have any shims or anything with it. I test drove it today and the abs light went off, and I felt it try to engage while I was pulling up to the stop light.
I just ordered a scan tool, it's supposed to be here tomorrow night.
 
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DurrtyBurB

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Thats likely because of the radio. Might not have the RSWC interface, or have been wired for it.
Looks like the module the PO has for the head unit does not integrate the audio controls. For the DIC buttons DIC personalization is set to off. I assume that’s why those buttons don’t work. I may need to pull the trigger on a clone Tech 2 at this point.

Started removing the side moldings, I had attempted to clean them with acetone but the color way still way off.
 

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