What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Rocket Man

Mark
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Found one that fit perfectly at the top. :waytogo:
Does your rocker cover have 1 or 2 locking tabs? BTW thanks for peer pressuring me into buying a few hundred o-rings that I never knew I needed.:rage:
 

Just Fishing

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Does your rocker cover have 1 or 2 locking tabs? BTW thanks for peer pressuring me into buying a few hundred o-rings that I never knew I needed.:rage:

iirc it's a two, but I could be wrong.

and I never had an issue until i replaced the silly fill neck.
clicked in fine, just fit loosely.
 

Doubeleive

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That was not part of the initial post! Haha. It’s actually my “I’m too old for this $hi+ paddle wheel”. It’s part of my Stihl Kombi system. I actually use it upside down to move rocks back into the road each spring after the snowplow trucks ****** my frontage, and again in the fall after they cut shoulders. It’s also handy each time we get a heavy rain. After a couple good storms I find myself moving a couple hundred pounds of sand and gravel that wash down to the low spot in my driveway. Pretty slick tool. Not for those with a weak core, but sure beat the hell out of a gravel rake or garden rake any day of the week.

the mirror turn signal comes from the door switch, there are 2 harness from the door switch to the mirror. one of those wires is the turn signal, not sure which color I only know the puddle light wire is orange/black. you could just connect a meter and probe the harness with the turn signal on. connect the meter negative to any ground and use the positive wire to probe the mirror wire harness there is only about 8-10 wires per harness shouldn't be hard to figure out which one it is.
GM designed these truck's with a high speed serial lan and made each module programmable to then split the signal from each module into different functions, this was done supposedly to save on wiring. so that is why you don't have a turn signal lead going to the door, it's a digital signal from the bcm to the door switch, then it comes out analog from the door switch.
when you find the signal wire on the mirror harness that will be your positive, the ground from your led can just go anywhere on the door frame. you won't get any error messages or issue's doing this but the tech2 will pick it up as a "short to ground on the door module" it's just a heads up so you know what it is if troubleshooting something in the future
 

alpha_omega

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Yes i do,
it's really noticeable when cold.
lighter when hot, but still there.

I also get some light rattling on a cold startup, but it's really barley noticeable.

I'm half way tempted to try the spacers out first, then the pushrods...
I would have thought you had broken manifold/bolts from the way you describe the sound and when it’s the most noticeable.
When it comes time, I’ll have to remember this excuse to tell my wife why I’m working on the Denali.
 

alpha_omega

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the mirror turn signal comes from the door switch, there are 2 harness from the door switch to the mirror. one of those wires is the turn signal, not sure which color I only know the puddle light wire is orange/black. you could just connect a meter and probe the harness with the turn signal on. connect the meter negative to any ground and use the positive wire to probe the mirror wire harness there is only about 8-10 wires per harness shouldn't be hard to figure out which one it is.
GM designed these truck's with a high speed serial lan and made each module programmable to then split the signal from each module into different functions, this was done supposedly to save on wiring. so that is why you don't have a turn signal lead going to the door, it's a digital signal from the bcm to the door switch, then it comes out analog from the door switch.
when you find the signal wire on the mirror harness that will be your positive, the ground from your led can just go anywhere on the door frame. you won't get any error messages or issue's doing this but the tech2 will pick it up as a "short to ground on the door module" it's just a heads up so you know what it is if troubleshooting something in the future
Very interesting. Thank you for that but of info. I’m used to the old GM wiring method, so if I had an issue I would have been digging out the power probe and Tech2, but still scratching my head wondering WTF?
Is there a way around the “short to ground” error, or is the fix similar to using a relay/resistor/switch when upgrading headlights to LED?
 

Just Fishing

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I had my rear hatch refuse to open last night.
I hooked up the tech2, and found i could not even command it open.

Monitored the switch and it almost looked like that while it was commanded to open, the command to the rear never happened.

So o disconnected the battery for a min, and all is good... lol
 

alpha_omega

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Here I marked the contacts that control up/down and express down. And just a pic of where the regulator harness plugs in. It’s those 6 big prongs.

View attachment 347664
Ok guys….here’s one for you. Can you program the window switches so they all work auto up / auto down like the drivers window? I thought this was a dumb feature not to have. My wife’s old Toyota RAV4 had auto on all of the windows as did my uncles 04’ GX470 (I almost wrote GSX on accident and that might have confused some of you as to why my uncle had windows on his rotch-crocket).
Anyways…I know on some vehicles the actual window switch mechanism is different and do not require programming, so I wasn’t sure if this idea is just me nitpicking or is feasible.
 

alpha_omega

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Step i missed when i went with the AFR heads!

Made me feel better about making the pita switch to the longer pushrod.

I'm 48% done now.

And those spacers are sorta a pita to center perfectly.
I'm sure i'll find some clearance issues when putting the plastic cover back on. :jester:

View attachment 347695
Going with that setup, did it require you to buy two sets of gaskets to make that “spacer sandwich” or did it come with a set? Not saying that whatever gasket that comes with them is any good, but I wasn’t sure if one was built into it or not.
 

alpha_omega

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I'd be happy just to have a working drivers side window and not the rest, or the door locks or mirrors for that matter. If I could plug and play a new unit just to have that one working to get me by for now i'd be so relieved.
Just spin it 180 and all should be good. Haha!
 

Doubeleive

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Very interesting. Thank you for that but of info. I’m used to the old GM wiring method, so if I had an issue I would have been digging out the power probe and Tech2, but still scratching my head wondering WTF?
Is there a way around the “short to ground” error, or is the fix similar to using a relay/resistor/switch when upgrading headlights to LED?
I would guess if you also wired the led ground to the ground wire in the harness it would be fine, I wired my puddle lights to light up with the interior lights and the tech2 can see it.
 

Rocket Man

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Ok guys….here’s one for you. Can you program the window switches so they all work auto up / auto down like the drivers window? I thought this was a dumb feature not to have. My wife’s old Toyota RAV4 had auto on all of the windows as did my uncles 04’ GX470 (I almost wrote GSX on accident and that might have confused some of you as to why my uncle had windows on his rotch-crocket).
Anyways…I know on some vehicles the actual window switch mechanism is different and do not require programming, so I wasn’t sure if this idea is just me nitpicking or is feasible.
The short answer is no. I have heard the Escalades have this option but you would need the wiring harness and a BCM flash. The other way is with an AutoSync from BT Dieselworks which has lots of other cool things it can do but isn't cheap.

 

1BADI5

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Swapped out the rear shocks w/o pulling the wheels or backing it up on to the ramps.

The Belltech shocks ride a million times better then the OEM PPV shocks.
 

1BADI5

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The short answer is no. I have heard the Escalades have this option but you would need the wiring harness and a BCM flash. The other way is with an AutoSync from BT Dieselworks which has lots of other cool things it can do but isn't cheap.

Yeah I never got a response back from him
 

bobsburban

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Did the Dashskin thing yesterday. Was helped by four 20 pound sandbags from the theatre department which will be returned forthwith now that the RTV has set up. In addition to the ability to spread their considerable weight out a bit, they squished up against the windshield better than something squarish so things are well and truly glued together today.
 

Bill 1960

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Swapped in the new Dorman FPCM / FICM and just as advertised, it required no programming, Tech 2, etc. Plug and Play. I’ll keep the original GM part as a spare.

This sprang from the breakdown recently where it lost fuel pressure. I’m 90% certain it was a bad pump (replaced that already) but out of an abundance of caution I procured new parts for all the suspect components.

As an aside, I’m not a fan of Dorman, I always prefer OEM for critical parts. But the logistics in 2021 of procuring the OEM part and coordinating a dealer to install it, while traveling, overcame my reluctance. Time will tell if this part holds up.
 

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