What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[alpha_omega]

I think the factory started using the updated valve cover in 2011, or somewhere around that year

Halfway through maybe? I know mine was the old style, but it could be the same issue as the oil filler cap.

 

[wsteele]

Replaced the driver's side valve cover on my 2014 Tahoe PPV. Only to discover it already had the new valve cover.

At least it was as easy as the videos showed.

This makes me wonder if the AFM diverter has also been changed. I'm not going to open up the oil pan just to look.

The AFM deflector will be there as well.

 

[89Suburban]

View attachment 347540


View attachment 347541

Window switch zoomed in
View attachment 347542

@89Suburban

more,


Power Windows Description and Operation
Power Window System Components
The power window system consists of the following components:

• Driver Door Switch (DDS)

• Passenger Door Switch (PDS)

• Body Control Module (BCM)

• Rear door power window switches

• Power window motors in each of the doors (circuit breaker protected)

Power Window System Controls
The power window system will operate anytime the retained accessory power (RAP) system is active or when the ignition switch is in the ACCY or ON position.

The driver and passenger door lock and side window switches are integrated control module switch assemblies. The driver door switch (DDS) driver and front passenger window switches are normally open, 3 position rocker type switches, with detents for up, down, and express down. The DDS rear passenger window switches are normally open, 2 position rocker type switches, with detents for up and down. The DDS rear window lockout switch is a push button type switch that provides an active signal to the DDS whenever pressed. Whenever the rear window lockout switch is pressed the DDS will activate or deactivate the rear window lockout function depending on the current state, and illuminate the switch indicator whenever the function is active.

The passenger door switch (PDS) contains a single power window switch that is an integral component. Closing of this normally open, rocker switch provides the PDS with a request for the front passenger power window operation. The switch for the front passenger window has 3 positions Up, Down and Express Down. Each of these switch positions is a direct input to the PDS.

The rear passenger door power window switches are normally open, 2 position rocker type switches, with detents for up and down. Each switch incorporates up and down window motor relays that can be energized by the rocker switch or through body control module (BCM) control circuits.

Driver Power Window Operation
The switch for the driver power window has 3 positions Up, Down and Express Down and its position is a direct input into the driver door switch (DDS). Upon receiving a request for power window operation (switch activation), the DDS supplies voltage to the power window motor left front up or down circuit and grounds the opposite and the power window motor runs to move the window up or down.

Front Passenger Power Window Operation
The switch for the front passenger power window has 3 positions Up, Down and Express Down, and its position is a direct input into the passenger door switch (PDS). Upon receiving a request for power window operation (switch activation), the PDS supplies voltage to the power window motor right front up or down circuit and grounds the opposite and the power window motor runs to drive the window up or down.

The front passenger power window can also be operated from the driver door switch (DDS). The front passenger window switch on the DDS has 3 positions Up, Down and Express Down and its position is a direct input into the DDS. Upon receiving a request for front passenger power window operation, the DDS transmits a GMLAN message indicating the changed switch position. When the PDS receives this message, the PDS supplies voltage to the power window motor right front up or down circuit and grounds the opposite and the power window motor runs to move the window up or down.

Rear Passenger Power Window Operation
The rear passenger power window switches are supplied battery voltage through 25A circuit breakers in the IP fuse panel. The rear door window switch up and down relays control power and ground to the window motors through the motor control circuits. The rear window switch relays can be energized by the integrated rocker switch or by the body control module (BCM) through the up and down signal circuits. While a rear window switch is in an inactive state both of the window motor control circuits are grounded through the up and down relays. When an up or down relay is energized the battery supply circuit is closed to the corresponding motor control circuit while the other control circuit remains grounded through the de-energized relay. The BCM supplies the rocker switches with accessory/retained accessory power (RAP) voltage through the lockout control circuit while the lockout function is inactive. The supply side of all the window up and down relays receive voltage through the battery voltage supply circuit and the lt door or rt door circuit breakers respectively.

The rear passenger power windows can also be operated from the driver door switch (DDS) through a GMLAN message to the BCM. The rear passenger window switches on the DDS have 2 positions Up and Down their position is a direct input into the DDS. When the BCM receives a command to operate a rear window up or down the appropriate signal circuit is used to energize the up or down relay in the rear door window switch.

Rear Power Window Lockout Operation
NOTE: Power window lockout switch disables REAR passenger window switches only and has no effect on the operation of the FRONT passenger window switch.

The rear window lockout function is operated from the driver door switch (DDS) through a GMLAN message to the body control module (BCM). When the BCM receives an active lockout command, the rear door power window switches are disabled. The lockout control circuit from the BCM supplies the accessory/retained accessory power (RAP) voltage to the rear window switches while the lockout function is inactive and removes the supply voltage to activate the function. Once activated, the lockout feature will remain in effect until the ignition switch is cycled or the DDS receives another power window lockout switch activation.

@89Suburban

More,
Window motor
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View attachment 347545

I have the whole shop manual chapter on window diagnostics in PDF (including all the stuff JF just posted, diagrams, etc.), I can send you if that will be helpful?

Much appreciated gents.

 

[alpha_omega]

@swathdiver I’m not sure if it was you or someone else who was asking about which heat wrap and wire loom seems to work best.
This stuff is by far not the cheapest, but damn does it look purdy. Buy once, cry once? I would suggest some high temp silicone tape as well. Don’t expect to patch a boat or wrap Christmas presents with it, but boy howdy does this stuff stick to itself. Literally adheres to nothing…except itself. Like roofing ice and water shield…only exactly the opposite. Wait, no, that’s not right either, because I&W sticks to itself some WAY worse than others. Ignore that terrible analogy. Now shut up monkey, play me a song and post some pictures!

 

[ppvfan]

The AFM deflector will be there as well.

Great news! Thanks.

 

[89Suburban]

@swathdiver I’m not sure if it was you or someone else who was asking about which heat wrap and wire loom seems to work best.
This stuff is by far not the cheapest, but damn does it look purdy. Buy once, cry once? I would suggest some high temp silicone tape as well. Don’t expect to patch a boat or wrap Christmas presents with it, but boy howdy does this stuff stick to itself. Literally adheres to nothing…except itself. Like roofing ice and water shield…only exactly the opposite. Wait, no, that’s not right either, because I&W sticks to itself some WAY worse than others. Ignore that terrible analogy. Now shut up monkey, play me a song and post some pictures!

View attachment 347548

What's that there Stihl tool thingy?

 

[Rocket Man]

@swathdiver I’m not sure if it was you or someone else who was asking about which heat wrap and wire loom seems to work best.
This stuff is by far not the cheapest, but damn does it look purdy. Buy once, cry once? I would suggest some high temp silicone tape as well. Don’t expect to patch a boat or wrap Christmas presents with it, but boy howdy does this stuff stick to itself. Literally adheres to nothing…except itself. Like roofing ice and water shield…only exactly the opposite. Wait, no, that’s not right either, because I&W sticks to itself some WAY worse than others. Ignore that terrible analogy. Now shut up monkey, play me a song and post some pictures!

View attachment 347548

Any installed pics?

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

What's that there Stihl tool thingy?

One of them leaf raking power broom deallys

 

[swathdiver]

@swathdiver I’m not sure if it was you or someone else who was asking about which heat wrap and wire loom seems to work best.
This stuff is by far not the cheapest, but damn does it look purdy. Buy once, cry once? I would suggest some high temp silicone tape as well. Don’t expect to patch a boat or wrap Christmas presents with it, but boy howdy does this stuff stick to itself. Literally adheres to nothing…except itself. Like roofing ice and water shield…only exactly the opposite. Wait, no, that’s not right either, because I&W sticks to itself some WAY worse than others. Ignore that terrible analogy. Now shut up monkey, play me a song and post some pictures!

View attachment 347548

Thanks! Yeah, the loom in the engine bay is crumbling and needs to be replaced. Waiting for cooler weather before that project gets tackled but thanks for the photo, will save it and check it out!

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

For some reason, the 3 years I've had this thing, I put the tow mirrors on it so I could actually see around trailers behind me, and those mirrors have built-in turn signals, and the doors have the turn signal wiring and it also, but there's nothing going from the BCM out to the connector in the door jamb. And I eventually need to figure out where to tap into that so that I only get the turn signal and don't come on when I hit the brakes like a trailer typically does... That's all I could find on either fuse block was wires that would also come on with the brake pedal.

 

[alpha_omega]

What's that there Stihl tool thingy?

That was not part of the initial post! Haha. It’s actually my “I’m too old for this $hi+ paddle wheel”. It’s part of my Stihl Kombi system. I actually use it upside down to move rocks back into the road each spring after the snowplow trucks ****** my frontage, and again in the fall after they cut shoulders. It’s also handy each time we get a heavy rain. After a couple good storms I find myself moving a couple hundred pounds of sand and gravel that wash down to the low spot in my driveway. Pretty slick tool. Not for those with a weak core, but sure beat the hell out of a gravel rake or garden rake any day of the week.

https://m.stihlusa.com/products/multi-task-tools/kombisystem-attachments/kwpwrswp/

 

[89Suburban]

One of them leaf raking power broom deallys

Damn that's sweet!

 

[alpha_omega]

For some reason, the 3 years I've had this thing, I put the tow mirrors on it so I could actually see around trailers behind me, and those mirrors have built-in turn signals, and the doors have the turn signal wiring and it also, but there's nothing going from the BCM out to the connector in the door jamb. And I eventually need to figure out where to tap into that so that I only get the turn signal and don't come on when I hit the brakes like a trailer typically does... That's all I could find on either fuse block was wires that would also come on with the brake pedal.

You answered your own question. The turn signals do not also come on when the brake pedal is applied.
You might have to check the wiring in the side mirrors.

 

[alpha_omega]

So….this just showed up in my mailbox. I was like wtf? Ignition coils? Nope…an eBay seller reusing a trust box for shipping. Creative!

 

[the_tool_man]

I've had an alert set up with my three closest LKQ yards for about a year, for any GMT900. I finally got a hit this morning, hoping to score some interior trim pieces to experiment with for vinyl wrapping. Here's the pic posted this morning:



By the time I got there, around 2:00, it was already gutted. Engine, transmission, transfer case, door panels and airbags gone. Some of the trim panels were in the back. But the bezel for the center stack was gone. Unfortunately, whoever took the airbag used a reciprocating saw, and nearly cut the dash trim panel in half.

I grabbed it anyway, thinking if I break mine removing it, it's repairable as a spare (plan is to vinyl over the wood). It was only $10. And I can always return it within 90 days if I don't use it.

My favorite find is the center console tray with cup holders for $12. Sure beats the price of a new one at $55. And I hate my Denali one with the stupid doors and no space for anything. I also found a five-button switch panel in case I want to swap it for my three-button one to add something.

Now I have to clean everything. The interior of this smelled of cheap car deodorizer and weed. And the console tray is a petri dish, yuck.

 

[Rocket Man]

I've had an alert set up with my three closest LKQ yards for about a year, for any GMT900. I finally got a hit this morning, hoping to score some interior trim pieces to experiment with for vinyl wrapping. Here's the pic posted this morning:

View attachment 347576

By the time I got there, around 2:00, it was already gutted. Engine, transmission, transfer case, door panels and airbags gone. Some of the trim panels were in the back. But the bezel for the center stack was gone. Unfortunately, whoever took the airbag used a reciprocating saw, and nearly cut the dash trim panel in half.

I grabbed it anyway, thinking if I break mine removing it, it's repairable as a spare (plan is to vinyl over the wood). It was only $10. And I can always return it within 90 days if I don't use it.

View attachment 347578

My favorite find is the center console tray with cup holders for $12. Sure beats the price of a new one at $55. And I hate my Denali one with the stupid doors and no space for anything. I also found a five-button switch panel in case I want to swap it for my four-button one to add something.

View attachment 347577

Now I have to clean everything. The interior of this smelled of cheap car deodorizer and weed. And the console tray is a petri dish, yuck.

All the GM SUV’s get gutted instantly here too.

 

[Fless]

All the GM SUV’s get gutted instantly here too.

Hardly any GMT900s show up around here, either, at the 3 upulls I've frequented. There are two LKQ yards that I need to investigate, though.

 

[the_tool_man]

Installed the "new" tray today. It's amazing how much crap ends up under this thing. Apparently the previous owner had dogs, and drank a lot of stuff that was sticky.

 

[Just Fishing]

All the GM SUV’s get gutted instantly here too.

I saw a tahoe in town that looked like it was the recipient of many of the parts from the local junk yards.

Looked pretty good from a distance, but it was pretty clear it's a work in progress.

Noticed it because the rear opened randomly in traffic, and they held up a green light as they got out to close it.

 

[Just Fishing]

And i got my valve cover spacers from summit yesterday.
Actually got the right ones!

Last set were the correct pn and description on the packaging as they received from ict billet, but clearly bbc spacers. lol

Ones i got as replacements look to have been on the shelf for a few years, but they are actual ls spacers!

Last night i bonded the new felpro seal to the bottom half of the spacer with some black rtv.

Apparently per the fsm, it's something your supposed to do.

Last time i installed the valve covers, my felpro seals stretched and made life difficult.

Bonding them to the groove in the cover makes oh so much more sense. lol


Anyways, trying to decide if i want to get motivated to pull the valve covers, pull the rockers.
And install the longer pushrods while it's open.

Found my tube of permatex high temp thread sealer.
and an older tube arp high temp thread sealer as a bonus!

(My AFR heads have to have the intake side sealed since they pass through the intake port).


Or option 2
I go check out some junkyards!
I still need an airbag sensor, and i would love to find some arm rests for my bucket seats in the second row...


It's not like my engine makes much noise...
It sure would be nice to put it off for a week or two... lol