What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Ok guys sorry, I haven't posted in awhile, been in CA at Tokyo Prep Camp. I leave 22AUG, so I will post race dates & times when it gets closer. In the meantime, you can help support me and my Paralympic journey, by grabbing a Tshirt, from the TEAMUSASHOP:
View attachment 346829

Ordered :thumbsup:
 
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+1. I also usually use a bungee to hold the glass against the load gently to prevent the possibility of it slamming into it from a higher position along the way. I also drive with all 4 windows down to ensure good airflow and minimize exhaust intrusion.
That was going to be my next question, if I should bungy the window down to the load. I won't be doing any highway driving, maybe 35mph max.
 

iamdub

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That was going to be my next question, if I should bungy the window down to the load. I won't be doing any highway driving, maybe 35mph max.

At 35mph max, you should be ok to leave it up if the road is smooth. Otherwise, bungee it down. Wrap a towel or blanket around the lumber so it protects the hatch opening and gives the edge of the glass something soft to rest against. Be careful to not do anything that'd make the load bounce (railroad tracks, etc.)
 

Rocket Man

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+1. I also usually use a bungee to hold the glass against the load gently to prevent the possibility of it slamming into it from a higher position along the way. I also drive with all 4 windows down to ensure good airflow and minimize exhaust intrusion.
This.
 

Rocket Man

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At 35mph max, you should be ok to leave it up if the road is smooth. Otherwise, bungee it down. Wrap a towel or blanket around the lumber so it protects the hatch opening and gives the edge of the glass something soft to rest against. Be careful to not do anything that'd make the load bounce (railroad tracks, etc.)
Yeah 35 max not Mad Max. :cool:
 

Doubeleive

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That was going to be my next question, if I should bungy the window down to the load. I won't be doing any highway driving, maybe 35mph max.
the hatch glass needs to be secured I have seen people hit a bump and smash, glass shattered. best to put it up on the roof if it's not more than 200lbs
or just buy a truck....:secret:
 
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Just did some measuring and I should be OK and fit it all inside.

I'm picking up some 8' long fence panels and with the 2nd and 3rd row seat backs folded down I have 8'6" from the back of the front seats to the rear lift gate.
Love the extra length of the XL

I don't need a truck, for bigger loads I'll just use my 18' tandem axle car hauler trailer. I was just hoping to save myself the trouble of hooking it up and getting it from behind the garage
 

Geotrash

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Just did some measuring and I should be OK and fit it all inside.

I'm picking up some 8' long fence panels and with the 2nd and 3rd row seat backs folded down I have 8'6" from the back of the front seats to the rear lift gate.
Love the extra length of the XL

I don't need a truck, for bigger loads I'll just use my 18' tandem axle car hauler trailer. I was just hoping to save myself the trouble of hooking it up and getting it from behind the garage
Yep. These trucks put the "utility" in SUV.
 

Doubeleive

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Just did some measuring and I should be OK and fit it all inside.

I'm picking up some 8' long fence panels and with the 2nd and 3rd row seat backs folded down I have 8'6" from the back of the front seats to the rear lift gate.
Love the extra length of the XL

I don't need a truck, for bigger loads I'll just use my 18' tandem axle car hauler trailer. I was just hoping to save myself the trouble of hooking it up and getting it from behind the garage
I was just messing with ya... :cool:
 

89Suburban

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Mine is going in the shop Monday for a pass side LCA/ball joint assembly and half shaft. Expecting to pay around $500. I'm getting to old and sore to lay under it to do this safely on my own.
 

alpha_omega

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Any suggestions on an easy way to clean the oil drain holes without using a bunch of solvent and having to drain the oil pan again? I have the valve covers off and want to make sure the drain holes are clear before putting the covers back on. There seemed to be a bit more oil than I would have expected to see.

*RH Valve cover and gasket replacement along with a new engine oil fill tube, since somebody thought the entire fill tube gets pulled out instead of just the fill cap. It’s not worth having friends try to “help”. Even smart people occasionally do dumb costly $h!t.
 

Rocket Man

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Any suggestions on an easy way to clean the oil drain holes without using a bunch of solvent and having to drain the oil pan again? I have the valve covers off and want to make sure the drain holes are clear before putting the covers back on. There seemed to be a bit more oil than I would have expected to see.

*RH Valve cover and gasket replacement along with a new engine oil fill tube, since somebody thought the entire fill tube gets pulled out instead of just the fill cap. It’s not worth having friends try to “help”. Even smart people occasionally do dumb costly $h!t.
Oops. That’s why I don’t let anybody touch my trucks.
 

Tonyrodz

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Any suggestions on an easy way to clean the oil drain holes without using a bunch of solvent and having to drain the oil pan again? I have the valve covers off and want to make sure the drain holes are clear before putting the covers back on. There seemed to be a bit more oil than I would have expected to see.

*RH Valve cover and gasket replacement along with a new engine oil fill tube, since somebody thought the entire fill tube gets pulled out instead of just the fill cap. It’s not worth having friends try to “help”. Even smart people occasionally do dumb costly $h!t.
You could try some long pipe cleaners. I've read some guys use them to clean the oiling holes in pushrods.
 

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