What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Sparksalot]

#8 isn’t too hard if you use the right tools to loosen it. Use a regular 5/8” magnetic plug socket but instead of an extension on it, put a regular depth 3/4” socket on your ratchet and use that on the hex end that is on every plug socket. It’s the perfect length. If you’re still having problems, pull the wheel and inner fender liner and go in from underneath.

I remembered reading this when I went for #8, it worked like a charm.

 

[gooffeyguy]

#8 isn’t too hard if you use the right tools to loosen it. Use a regular 5/8” magnetic plug socket but instead of an extension on it, put a regular depth 3/4” socket on your ratchet and use that on the hex end that is on every plug socket. It’s the perfect length. If you’re still having problems, pull the wheel and inner fender liner and go in from underneath.

They make magnetic plug sockets? ****, all I have are ones with the little rubber tubing insert that gets on my nerves and I end up pulling them out, lol

 

[lowh07]

Took a pic

 

[Rocket Man]

Hey…it sure beats the two man bleeder method. Which usually ends up being a one man method since one guy up front is lost or not paying attention, smashing the pedal to the floor before, while and after you telling them “ok, slowly pump the brake” right up until just before a lot of cursing pursues (muffled or out loud).

Which vac tool are you using? The Motive or mightyvac whichever name they are using these days.

The Motive isn’t vacuum, it’s the opposite, a pressure bleeder. It doesn’t suck (literally) it blows. It’s a great tool.

They make magnetic plug sockets? ****, all I have are ones with the little rubber tubing insert that gets on my nerves and I end up pulling them out, lol

Yes, magnetic plug socket FTW. I hate those other ones.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Gadzooks! That’s some muddy looking chocolate milk. Like James mentioned and you followed up with, the ABS bleed will be a saving grace for your system. Any crap left in there will get flushed out of there. Sometimes the Tech2 can be funny about the bleed and I’ve seen guys have to use a different vehicle year/model selection in order for it to work.
Are you thinking new braided brake lines for the whole system?

Is the tech 2 the only way to lead the abs?

Was just thinking to replace the factory rubber line on the front calipers.
But we shall see I suppose.
I haven't looked into it much, but I don't think anybody even makes stainless lines for these since they aren't track cars by any means.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Can you notice a difference in the stock arms vs. the RC vs. the fabtech?

Anything special about those fancy cam locks other than looking much prettier than my OEM ones?

Yea RC ride better then stock but still bottomed out over bumps since the bump stops are cut since the uniball upgrade going over train tracks or bad pot holes smoothed out considerably.
Not shock wise but suspension travel wise it don’t beat your teeth out anymore though still rides rough. My next upgrade when I put the lift on will be icon coil overs with rear resi shocks HD rear springs and spacer and airbag

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I remembered reading this when I went for #8, it worked like a charm.

I can't remember what I did 50,000 miles ago, but I don't remember it being impossible. I mean, I even did a compression test while I had all the plugs out.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Yea RC ride better then stock but still bottomed out over bumps since the bump stops are cut since the uniball upgrade going over train tracks or bad pot holes smoothed out considerably.
Not shock wise but suspension travel wise it don’t beat your teeth out anymore though still rides rough. My next upgrade when I put the lift on will be icon coil overs with rear resi shocks HD rear springs and spacer and airbag

I ended up putting a 1 inch spacer in the rear of mine to level out with the front end. Even though the front coils are as low as they go, still 3 in higher than stock.
Also went with cargo Max springs in the rear and Firestone airbags.
The king shocks lifted the back end at least three quarters of an inch on top of all of that... At least when I first put them on. I suppose I should remeasure now that they're all broken in front and rear.

 

[89Suburban]

Yes, magnetic plug socket FTW. I hate those other ones.

Never knew they existed. Thanks big dawg!

 

[Rocket Man]

Is the tech 2 the only way to lead the abs?

Was just thinking to replace the factory rubber line on the front calipers.
But we shall see I suppose.
I haven't looked into it much, but I don't think anybody even makes stainless lines for these since they aren't track cars by any means.

If you mean braided stainless hoses to replace the factory rubber hoses then yes a couple mfrs make them, Goodridge for sure and someone else.

 

[1BADI5]

The Motive isn’t vacuum, it’s the opposite, a pressure bleeder. It doesn’t suck (literally) it blows. It’s a great tool.

Yes, magnetic plug socket FTW. I hate those other ones.

I love my Motive bleeder.......as a tech I prefer to blow it out then suck it out.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Russell

 

[gooffeyguy]

Damnit, I just got a new android phone and lost my Torque App layout. I know I had it backed up somewhere, but can't find it.

 

[1BADI5]

Well I got the rear Hotchkis bar in this morning before the heat......1.5 hours to fit and fabricate the rear end links.

The to knock out the front bar........should be 30 minutes or less on ramps

 

[1BADI5]

Well done with the front.....bit drank to much in the process to test drive lol......hmmm, Jack and coke WTW

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

but drank to much in the process to test drive lol

Lol hate when that happens!

 

[1BADI5]

Well I cooled off and took'er for a rip.

It's 90+* right now and ripped off a 14sec 1/4 mile......spinning through first. Trans tune still needs some serious work. With this build, converter and gears I should be ripping off a 4.8-5.0 sec 0-60. Its falling on its face til I hit 4500 rpm from a dig or even when I bring it up to 2800 rpm on the converter

 

[89Suburban]

Well done with the front.....bit drank to much in the process to test drive lol......hmmm, Jack and coke WTW

Looks great man!

 

[gooffeyguy]

Well I cooled off and took'er for a rip.

It's 90+* right now and ripped off a 14sec 1/4 mile......spinning through first. Trans tune still needs some serious work. With this build, converter and gears I should be ripping off a 4.8-5.0 sec 0-60. Its falling on its face til I hit 4500 rpm from a dig or even when I bring it up to 2800 rpm on the converter

So how accurate is whatever device you're using as a performance meter? Have you ran it at a track with this meter at the same time to compare accuracy?

I used to have a GtechPro, the first model that looked like a radar detector, back in the mid-late 90s (before smartphones and gps), and it was pretty accurate as long as you had the correct vehicle weight entered. It was about 3 tenths and 5 mph off in the 1/4 pretty constantly.

 

[89Suburban]

Yesterday I pulled the driver's armrest switchgear because the front passenger window "up" switch was intermittent then inoperative. I didn't use tootpaste because every one of my contacts looked a lot better than the ones in the video. I just swabbed them down with alcohol and all is good.

I am doing this right now. I was freaking out because I thought I lost a white plunger. Now I see in your video yours is missing as well. The is the rocker switch for the rear window locks and only moves to one side so that makes sends now. PHEW!!!

My plunger shafts are all also filthy. Scrubbing those up as well. I used a lint free rag dipped in warm soapy water for these.

All my brass contacts look surprisingly clean as a whistle. Except for the last pair at the rear which are for the door locks, which IS the one giving me issues. Curious as to why it's just those two. Because they are at the rear of the switch? Higher current draw? Or because they are hardly ever used? Strange but interesting to learn. I DO notice just a little bit of crud build up on the top side of the white rubber brass contact holder. I am wondering because if this is the rear of the switch and any rain water got in there over the years causing this issue. That is my hunch. Scrubbed that as well with the warm water rag and light blow gun action.