Sparksalot
Elite Member
I’ve assumed It was leaving the normal puddle. I know ass you me.
I’ll have to specifically look the next time I’m out to verify.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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I’ll have to specifically look the next time I’m out to verify.
08z71bgm
Full Access Member
Planning on doing this soon. Maybe this weekend. Waiting for the sensor and screen.
gooffeyguy
Tom
So a few observations concerning the oil pressure switch replacement I did.
I purchased the Lisle socket for this and I already had a shorter one that I've used on my mustang. I figured the GM switch would be too tall to use the shorter socket. It actually just fits and reaches to the hex.
When I went to remove the sensor I couldn't get the longer Lisle socket onto the hex of the sensor. It was like either that plastic shield or something was in the way and wouldn't give me the correct orientation to get it over the hex. I tried the old shorter socket I had and it went on with no problem. attached are a couple pics of that socket.
Also, the new sensor ended up in the same orientation as the one I took off when tightened. This may be why there is this opening in that plastic shield in front of the sensor, just in case it's oriented facing forward.
I spent most of my time trying to access and remove that connector just by feel and using different tools like picks, mini screwdrivers, etc. If I knew or had seen the opening beforehand it would've made this job so much easier and take half the time. Once that connector was unplugged it took maybe 5-10 minutes to get the old sensor out, remove the screen, and replace the new parts and plug it back in.
I also disconnected the PCV line from the back of the valve cover along with the evap line to get them out of the way. Also took the large vacuum line off the brake booster that runs past that area and moved it up over that plastic shield on the back of the engine, so the only line I had to work around back there was the braided fuel line.
I purchased the Lisle socket for this and I already had a shorter one that I've used on my mustang. I figured the GM switch would be too tall to use the shorter socket. It actually just fits and reaches to the hex.
When I went to remove the sensor I couldn't get the longer Lisle socket onto the hex of the sensor. It was like either that plastic shield or something was in the way and wouldn't give me the correct orientation to get it over the hex. I tried the old shorter socket I had and it went on with no problem. attached are a couple pics of that socket.
Also, the new sensor ended up in the same orientation as the one I took off when tightened. This may be why there is this opening in that plastic shield in front of the sensor, just in case it's oriented facing forward.
I spent most of my time trying to access and remove that connector just by feel and using different tools like picks, mini screwdrivers, etc. If I knew or had seen the opening beforehand it would've made this job so much easier and take half the time. Once that connector was unplugged it took maybe 5-10 minutes to get the old sensor out, remove the screen, and replace the new parts and plug it back in.
I also disconnected the PCV line from the back of the valve cover along with the evap line to get them out of the way. Also took the large vacuum line off the brake booster that runs past that area and moved it up over that plastic shield on the back of the engine, so the only line I had to work around back there was the braided fuel line.
gooffeyguy
Tom
Also while in there doing the work some of the wire loom covering the wires going to the coils, especially the rear coil, were brittle and crumbled to pieces. Guess next project is to replace some of that split loom
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Was the screen underneath clogged, or any debris in it?
gooffeyguy
Tom
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Nice. So a clogged filter wasn't part of your issue.
gooffeyguy
Tom
Nope, bad sensor.
Engine ran fine, just yellow engine light on and pressure gauge on zero. Checked DTC, got P0523 (engine oil pressure switch voltage too high). Cleared it, restarted and gauge slowly swept all the way to the other side and light came back on.
When this first came on, we were out shopping and just got back in vehicle to go home. I checked the oil level and it was fine, and there were no unusual noises from the engine. I figured it was just a bad sensor. The oil light never came on and never gave the "low oil pressure stop engine" message on the DIC. Drove it home 35 miles with the dead gauge and engine light on.
Replaced the protective plastic cover on the wire loom in the engine bay that runs down past the power steering pump. Did the job on both the '07 & '12 trucks today.
gooffeyguy
Tom
I noticed I have to do that to a few of them too. They are brittle and break to pieces when touched
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Is that a stock plastic clip on the alt bracket?
avalonandl
Full Access Member
Monz11
Full Access Member
why dont yall replace with wire braided
avalonandl
Full Access Member
Cleaned up
avalonandl
Full Access Member
The Denali handled the Donzi well. Trans temp never got over 210.
gooffeyguy
Tom
I have a couple rolls of that leftover from when we wired up the '33 hotrod.
It's nice stuff, but not split and easily installed, it has to be slipped over from an end.
bobsburban
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2020
- Posts
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Added Air-Lift 1000 bags to the 'Burb last Thursday after getting back from our three-week Michigan UP trip; went out immediately to a little-known but beautiful campground with everything fully loaded as if we were headed out for another month. Big improvement at 40 lbs pressure.
60 lb propane tanks and 10 gallons of gas on the trailer hitch plus 10 gallons of fresh water, a Yeti cooler, and a reasonably full set of tools - including some recovery stuff - in the back of the truck all makes for a bit of a load. With the air bags pressurized, the WDH works better. And maybe the tires won't wear so fast.
Next step - weigh everything again to double check vs. specified capacity.
60 lb propane tanks and 10 gallons of gas on the trailer hitch plus 10 gallons of fresh water, a Yeti cooler, and a reasonably full set of tools - including some recovery stuff - in the back of the truck all makes for a bit of a load. With the air bags pressurized, the WDH works better. And maybe the tires won't wear so fast.
Next step - weigh everything again to double check vs. specified capacity.
Yup.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I don't think the gmt800's have that clip. Very handy.
08z71bgm
Full Access Member
Where did you buy it and what sizes did you get? Have a link for that stuff?
