Monz11
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Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
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pwtr02ss
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decoded
Monz11
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iamdub
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1/0 (cable is 1/0) with the 5/16" hole. I went with 5/16" since most of the factory studs are about that size (probably 8mm, actually). For the larger ones, I just used a step bit to open the hole to 3/8". The battery post-to-stud adapters I got were 3/8" on the positive and 5/15" on the negative.
These are the terminals: https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-B...al+post+to+stud+adapter&qid=1620421485&sr=8-1
And CONGRATS on the GOLD!!
Monz11
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iamdub
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X2! Baddassery!! Way to go!!
Proudly reppin' 'Murica!
I'll say it again: It's an honor to share a forum with you
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iamdub
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Took a little road trip yesterday to haul home some goodies.
First was an Atrend ported enclosure for a Kicker L5/L7. These things are around $175 new and that's probably before shipping. A guy ordered it by mistake and just stashed it in his spare closet (return shipping wasn't worth it) and forgot about it. He was moving out of state and looking to offload it ASAP. I got it for $50:
I've had a 10" Alpine Type R for years and never taken it out of its original box. I want to build a center console box for it that'll go between the rear captains seats. Considering the labor and cost of materials, $50 for this one as a temporary solution is much more than worth it. It's plenty close enough to work with. I'll notch the four sides of the hole so the sub can be recessed and mounted to a baffle I'll mount on the inside, made of two pieces of 3/4" MDF:
I continued on to Lake Charles, two hours west of home, to meet up with some peeps selling a set of Pirelli Scorpion tires taken off a new F-150 in favor of off-road tires. They have just under 3,000 miles on them. Being 275/45-22, they're kind of an oddball size but they're exactly what I wanted for my "new" 22s and planned further drop. Scored 'em for $380:
The 'ol Hoe did good, averaging 22MPG cruising at 75 there and back. I say "averaging" because it bounced between 19 and 24 depending on the slight angles in the road, but stayed at 22 for the majority of the time:
First was an Atrend ported enclosure for a Kicker L5/L7. These things are around $175 new and that's probably before shipping. A guy ordered it by mistake and just stashed it in his spare closet (return shipping wasn't worth it) and forgot about it. He was moving out of state and looking to offload it ASAP. I got it for $50:
I've had a 10" Alpine Type R for years and never taken it out of its original box. I want to build a center console box for it that'll go between the rear captains seats. Considering the labor and cost of materials, $50 for this one as a temporary solution is much more than worth it. It's plenty close enough to work with. I'll notch the four sides of the hole so the sub can be recessed and mounted to a baffle I'll mount on the inside, made of two pieces of 3/4" MDF:
I continued on to Lake Charles, two hours west of home, to meet up with some peeps selling a set of Pirelli Scorpion tires taken off a new F-150 in favor of off-road tires. They have just under 3,000 miles on them. Being 275/45-22, they're kind of an oddball size but they're exactly what I wanted for my "new" 22s and planned further drop. Scored 'em for $380:
The 'ol Hoe did good, averaging 22MPG cruising at 75 there and back. I say "averaging" because it bounced between 19 and 24 depending on the slight angles in the road, but stayed at 22 for the majority of the time:
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iamdub
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After sleeping in and dragging ass with breakfast and coffee all morning, I finally got outside around 1230 to replace the fuel pump. At 1400, it was idling on the lift as I walked underneath to check for leaks, etc.
My lift table was a little short, so I added some wooden blocks:
Only took about 30 minutes to get to this point:
Original compared to Delphi. I hope the change in design is an improvement:
Comfortable working height. I disconnected and blew out all the lines to ensure there weren't any remaining carbon pellets:
I replaced the pump because the Tahoe would sputter under hard acceleration, starting just under a 1/4 tank and would get progressively worse. I thought the bucket wasn't staying filled and it was losing fuel when it sloshed to the back under hard acceleration. After all this, I'm now thinking that my problem wasn't the bucket not holding fuel. When I started, my gauge was reading a hair over 1/4 tank. When I removed the original pump, the fuel level in the bucket was higher than what was in the tank, indicating that it was NOT leaking. Also, the tank was lighter than I expected. 1/4 tank of fuel should be almost 40lbs, but the tank felt much lighter than this as I wrestled it around to drop it. 40lbs isn't much, but when it's overhead and sloshing around, you'd feel it. When I backed out of the shop, running on the new pump, my gauge was reading about 1/16 tank. Now I'm thinking the level sensor was inaccurate and I was actually out of fuel- "running on fumes" as the saying goes. I went for a test drive, giving it a few WOT starts from a dig and from ~20mph so it'd downshift and accelerate at its hardest. Didn't miss a beat.
My lift table was a little short, so I added some wooden blocks:
Only took about 30 minutes to get to this point:
Original compared to Delphi. I hope the change in design is an improvement:
Comfortable working height. I disconnected and blew out all the lines to ensure there weren't any remaining carbon pellets:
I replaced the pump because the Tahoe would sputter under hard acceleration, starting just under a 1/4 tank and would get progressively worse. I thought the bucket wasn't staying filled and it was losing fuel when it sloshed to the back under hard acceleration. After all this, I'm now thinking that my problem wasn't the bucket not holding fuel. When I started, my gauge was reading a hair over 1/4 tank. When I removed the original pump, the fuel level in the bucket was higher than what was in the tank, indicating that it was NOT leaking. Also, the tank was lighter than I expected. 1/4 tank of fuel should be almost 40lbs, but the tank felt much lighter than this as I wrestled it around to drop it. 40lbs isn't much, but when it's overhead and sloshing around, you'd feel it. When I backed out of the shop, running on the new pump, my gauge was reading about 1/16 tank. Now I'm thinking the level sensor was inaccurate and I was actually out of fuel- "running on fumes" as the saying goes. I went for a test drive, giving it a few WOT starts from a dig and from ~20mph so it'd downshift and accelerate at its hardest. Didn't miss a beat.
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FrankU
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Dual muffler..... and a bypass. And a cutout , sharp !
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iamdub
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Dual mufflers to quiet it down after losing the cats. The bypass has been capped cuz the cutout lost a butterfly valve and was staying open. Now it's just an oversized Helmholtz resonator. LOL
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iamdub
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I tested the level sensor on the original fuel pump module. Full was 40.x ohms, as it should be. As I slowly lowered the float arm, the impedance increased fairly smoothly until it reached a maximum of 193.8 ohms with a considerable amount of travel left in the float arm. Moving the arm further resulted in an open circuit for the rest of its travel. It's supposed to operate on a 40 ohms (full) to 250 ohms (empty).
193 is 77.2% of 250. 100% - 77.2% is 22.8%, which is a little under 25% or 1/4 tank. Just under 1/4 tank (per the gauge) is where it really started acting up when accelerating.
So, this means that when my gauge read ~1/4, I actually had anywhere from just under 1/4 tank of fuel to fumes remaining.
What I don't get is why the gauge didn't just suddenly plummet to "E" soon after that ~1/4 tank mark. Perhaps the PCM has backup logic to override the analog sensor in case of a failure? It could estimate the fuel remaining by factoring the last known quantity and injector duty cycle.
I guess I'm gonna have to fill one of my race jugs and go for a drive to see where it stalls. I could put three gallons in the jug and when the Tahoe runs out of fuel, that three gallons plus whatever is still in the tank should put the gauge right around the 1/8th tank mark. I'd know the accuracy of my gauge as well as my "stall point".
193 is 77.2% of 250. 100% - 77.2% is 22.8%, which is a little under 25% or 1/4 tank. Just under 1/4 tank (per the gauge) is where it really started acting up when accelerating.
So, this means that when my gauge read ~1/4, I actually had anywhere from just under 1/4 tank of fuel to fumes remaining.
What I don't get is why the gauge didn't just suddenly plummet to "E" soon after that ~1/4 tank mark. Perhaps the PCM has backup logic to override the analog sensor in case of a failure? It could estimate the fuel remaining by factoring the last known quantity and injector duty cycle.
I guess I'm gonna have to fill one of my race jugs and go for a drive to see where it stalls. I could put three gallons in the jug and when the Tahoe runs out of fuel, that three gallons plus whatever is still in the tank should put the gauge right around the 1/8th tank mark. I'd know the accuracy of my gauge as well as my "stall point".
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adventurenali92
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@iamdub im looking to do the big three upgrade on my Nali, would that kit you linked work for my 2006?
swathdiver
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iamdub
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It's pretty much a universal kit. One end of the three wires has the lug and heat shrink on it and you cut it to length and install the lug and heat shrink on that end of the wire yourself. On a GMT800, the battery and where the alternator cable goes is in the front left corner. So, there should be plenty of wire to go from the alternator to that positive lug, then from the positive lug to the positive post on the battery. You'd need an extra lug and some heat shrink, though.
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iamdub
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Excellent info! I never knew they had a chart that broke it down like that. I'll refer to that after my "manual gauge accuracy test" if something's amiss. Thanks, James!
adventurenali92
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Thanks for the info. Gonna have to figure out how this is gonna work for me since I have neither the expertise to do this on my own, nor the audio shop nearby to connect everything for me.
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iamdub
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It ain't nuttin' but copying the factory stuff. No expertise involved, really. If you can change out headlight assemblies and trim pieces, change engine oil, etc., then you can make and install the Big 3. Worst case is you'd have to buy or borrow something to crimp the lugs. You can use crimpers or a hammer style tool.
Example of hammer style: https://www.amazon.com/Compression-Crimping-Terminals-Tech-Team/dp/B0812CDCFD
Soldering isn't necessary. But, if you wanna solder them, you just need a torch, a spool of solder and pliers to hold the lug. I use Vise Grips to better my chances of not dropping the lug when it's full of molten solder.
I use a Coleman propane camp stove fuel tank with a Bernzomatic torch head:
Agree! This is not difficult stuff. I have the kit in my cart.. to order later.. sometime in the near future.. you can definitely do it Chase..!It ain't nuttin' but copying the factory stuff. No expertise involved, really. If you can change out headlight assemblies and trim pieces, change engine oil, etc., then you can make and install the Big 3. Worst case is you'd have to buy or borrow something to crimp the lugs. You can use crimpers or a hammer style tool.
Example of hammer style: https://www.amazon.com/Compression-Crimping-Terminals-Tech-Team/dp/B0812CDCFD
Soldering isn't necessary. But, if you wanna solder them, you just need a torch, a spool of solder and pliers to hold the lug. I use Vise Grips to better my chances of not dropping the lug when it's full of molten solder.
I use a Coleman propane camp stove fuel tank with a Bernzomatic torch head:
adventurenali92
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Me and wiring DO NOT get along. Soldering... no thanks... I can see myself screwing that up the minute I try it.
