What Is The Best Radiator Available???

[2007YukonXL]

Today in Arizona the OAT was a cool 95 and I was towing my EMPTY car trailer and the engine was running warm and the transmission temp was 225 F so I am considering replacing the radiator.

The SUV has a new AC Delco radiator and when I installed it I noticed that the side tanks are reasonably wide however the core is only about half as thick as the tanks so there has got to be a radiator that has a full core thickness radiator.

I really want an oil cooler this time so I want a radiator with the oil cooler on the driver side.

Does anyone make a direct fit bolt on radiator like this???

THANKS for your advice

 

[Geotrash]

Cold Case Radiators GMT569A. Just installed one this weekend. It’s a 2-row, with oil coolers on both ends. Bought mine from summit racing. Pay attention to the reviews that describe the minor mods needed for a perfect fit because the core is more than twice as thick as the stock radiator. Took me an hour and a half to do the whole job - mods and all, and I wasn’t rushing. I used a Dremel tool to clearance the top radiator supports and the top and bottom of the fan shroud to make it sit flush.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rad-gmt569a/make/gmc/model/yukon-xl-1500/year/2012

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[2007YukonXL]

Just ordered one. THANKS for the advice!!!

 

[Geotrash]

Happy to help. Feel free to ask if you have any other install or cooling-related questions. We tow a 6500 lb. camper with our 2012, so I've done a bunch of work to make it a towing beast.

 

[kbuskill]

Just ordered one. THANKS for the advice!!!

Also don't forget to install a restrictor in the port leading to your suge tank or the radiator will over cool and throw a CEL and "engine hot" message on the DIC.

Ask me how I know.

I used the aluminum valve stem from an old TPMS sensor i had laying around.

There are pics of it in my build thread.

Pics for reference...

 

[Foggy]

Also don't forget to install a restrictor in the port leading to your suge tank or the radiator will over cool and throw a CEL and "engine hot" message on the DIC.

Ask me how I know.

I used the aluminum valve stem from an old TPMS sensor i had laying around.

There are pics of it in my build thread.

Pics for reference...
View attachment 275468

View attachment 275469

View attachment 275470

I have the Mishimoto Radiator.... Do you think this situation exists with it as well???
I have NOT noticed any issues, other than I feel like I'm still running too hot when towing. Maybe this might be a thing on the mishi radiator also ??????

 

[kbuskill]

I have the Mishimoto Radiator.... Do you think this situation exists with it as well???
I have NOT noticed any issues, other than I feel like I'm still running too hot when towing. Maybe this might be a thing on the mishi radiator also ??????

Not having a restrictor in that port will cause the truck to run too cool, especially in colder weather. It doesn't actually cause the truck to run hot but when the ECU doesn't see the temperature rise to a certain point within a certain amount of time from a cold start it "thinks" there is a problem, like no coolant getting to the ECT sensor and it shows engine hot on the DIC.

I don't have any experience with the Mishimoto radiator but it would be easy to check by pulling the small hose that goes from the surge tank to the passenger side end tank on the radiator and seeing what size hole is in the port.

I suppose if you think you are still running too hot you could drill out the restrictor in that port, assuming it has one, a little bit but it may cause over cooling when not towing.

The problem is that this port feeds the cooled water/coolant from the cold side of the radiator into the surge tank and back into the engine BEHIND the thermostat.

So at higher rpm it pushes more coolant through the surge tank and into the engine, effectively bypassing the thermostat.

 

[HD_LS]

Second what kbuskill said above. Adding that I had both Mishimoto and Cold Case radiators sitting in my garage before I installed the Cold Case. The Mishimoto did have a restriction in the upper hose connection. However, it was obvious that it was not built for max possible cooling. Better than stock, sure, but not maxed out like the Cold Case. So if you need better cooling, get a Cold Case, and do the custom fitting required to get it in there.

 

[Sparksalot]

Also don't forget to install a restrictor in the port leading to your suge tank or the radiator will over cool and throw a CEL and "engine hot" message on the DIC.

Ask me how I know.

I used the aluminum valve stem from an old TPMS sensor i had laying around.

There are pics of it in my build thread.

Pics for reference...
View attachment 275468

View attachment 275469

View attachment 275470

LMAO, I keep throwing Benjamins for stuff.

 

[swathdiver]

Another thing, on either side of the radiator was a tar paper like material to keep the air from going around the radiator. Mine is starting to rot away and may explain the slight uptick in temperatures.

 

[Geotrash]

Another thing, on either side of the radiator was a tar paper like material to keep the air from going around the radiator. Mine is starting to rot away and may explain the slight uptick in temperatures.

THIS. It’s baffling and it’s pulling away on mine as well. In piston-engined aircraft, in which I’m intimately familiar with cooling dynamics, even a slight fold or gap in an engine baffle means a 20°30° difference in cylinder head temperatures in the climb or in hot weather.

My radiator baffling is falling apart also, so I cut up an inner tube and am planning to fit new baffles beside the radiator on Thursday of this week.


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[HD_LS]

Yep. Mine is sealed tight. I used various thicknesses of closed cell foam rubber, long thick panels of reinforced rubber cut from a semi-truck mudflap, etc. Close it all up, you don't want hot air from the engine side making it's way back around into the inlet side of the radiator when at idle. And you want maximum pressure in front of the radiator when running at speed. With the thick Radiators, you will have to partially cut the flanges of your fan shroud assembly, to clear the tanks & fins. Make those are all sealed tight to the radiator with adhesive backed foam, so that all of the suction from the fans pulls air through the radiator, not around the edges of the fan assembly.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Also don't forget to install a restrictor in the port leading to your suge tank or the radiator will over cool and throw a CEL and "engine hot" message on the DIC.

Ask me how I know.

I used the aluminum valve stem from an old TPMS sensor i had laying around.

There are pics of it in my build thread.

Pics for reference...
View attachment 275468

View attachment 275469

View attachment 275470

You could not find a five or ten ?

 

[Sparksalot]

Another thing, on either side of the radiator was a tar paper like material to keep the air from going around the radiator. Mine is starting to rot away and may explain the slight uptick in temperatures.

Was is the operative term.

 

[kbuskill]

You could not find a five or ten ?

Not at that moment... lol

That picture was like a work of art.... my thought process was to show that it was Benjamin approved.

 

[thompsoj22]

THIS. It’s baffling and it’s pulling away on mine as well. In piston-engined aircraft, in which I’m intimately familiar with cooling dynamics, even a slight fold or gap in an engine baffle means a 20°30° difference in cylinder head temperatures in the climb or in hot weather.

My radiator baffling is falling apart also, so I cut up an inner tube and am planning to fit new baffles beside the radiator on Thursday of this week.


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Mine is also "tearing" and not functioning as designed. Buuuut, Aviation cooling/baffling is entirely reliant upon ram air, ie' fwd air speed and propeller wash create the cooling air flow. Our systems use ducted fans so i question how much affect the seals in question would have on our cooling? No disrespect, Just think it is likely negligible?

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Not at that moment... lol

That picture was like a work of art.... my thought process was to show that it was Benjamin approved.

I'm lucky I can get by with those single row Radiators. My'78 Trans Am had a Four Core Harrison as Original Equipment.

 

[Axm1096]

What is the average temp for the engine and transmission

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[Geotrash]

Mine is also "tearing" and not functioning as designed. Buuuut, Aviation cooling/baffling is entirely reliant upon ram air, ie' fwd air speed and propeller wash create the cooling air flow. Our systems use ducted fans so i question how much affect the seals in question would have on our cooling? No disrespect, Just think it is likely negligible?

Our systems use ram air for cooling as well on the highway, which is where I was having trouble - even on level ground. The baffling prevents there from being a low pressure void on either side of the radiator, ensuring more of the ram air goes through the cooling coils instead of around.

 

[Geotrash]

Here's a pic of one of my dilapidated baffles