What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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R3cord303

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Yeah thats what I was thinking. We use those all the time at work, i’d probably go crazy and add a bunch of Hondabond around the base because there’s nothing I despise more than water leaks. The only thing I worry about then is the wire bend above the headliner and then the MC4 bends below the solar module itself.
 

Rocket Man

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Not the fittings. The ends with them spring clamps. I can move the hose so I’ll just get worm gear clamps and see if it’s better


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Are you sure you’re looking at power steering hoses? Those are high pressure. Post some pics. Also, spring clamps are better than worm drive clamps. I’m thinking the ends need to be cut off, reseated and the spring clamps put back on. Unless they’re the wrong size. They keep a constant pressure while things expand and contract, worm drive ones don’t. That’s why manufacturers use them.
 

aflumb

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Are you sure you’re looking at power steering hoses? Those are high pressure. Post some pics. Also, spring clamps are better than worm drive clamps. I’m thinking the ends need to be cut off, reseated and the spring clamps put back on. Unless they’re the wrong size. They keep a constant pressure while things expand and contract, worm drive ones don’t. That’s why manufacturers use them.

100% as one is high pressure the other isn't. as for the spring clamps I absolutely
hate them. but you may be right about the hose.
 

Rocket Man

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100% as one is high pressure the other isn't. as for the spring clamps I absolutely
hate them. but you may be right about the hose.
Get a pair of spring clamp pliers and you won’t hate them anymore. They ratchet open and swivel on the clamp so you can place it where you need and then release it. They work even in places that are hard to reach. :)
 
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Are you sure you’re looking at power steering hoses? Those are high pressure. Post some pics. Also, spring clamps are better than worm drive clamps. I’m thinking the ends need to be cut off, reseated and the spring clamps put back on. Unless they’re the wrong size. They keep a constant pressure while things expand and contract, worm drive ones don’t. That’s why manufacturers use them.
Agreed. I used the worm clamps that came with my aftermarket trans cooler for my remote trans filter, and over the winter the hoses started seeping a bit and dripping trans fluid. I had to tighten the clamps because the rubber lines contracted when it got super cold out. I will be switching them to spring clamps next filter change.

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Geotrash

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Drove out to Western Virginia to help a friend pick up her dream camper - a little 1970 Shasta Compact 'canned ham'. Did a full inspection in the dark. Structure, axle, bearings, tires and hitch were all solid. Took a moisture meter to the inside walls and they were dry as a bone. But the tail and running lights probably hadn't worked since about 1998 or so. Zip tied some harbor freight magnetic trailer lights to the rear bumper and dragged it back to Richmond. At 1500 lbs, the Denali never knew it was there.

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the_tool_man

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...Also, spring clamps are better than worm drive clamps. I’m thinking the ends need to be cut off, reseated and the spring clamps put back on. Unless they’re the wrong size. They keep a constant pressure while things expand and contract, worm drive ones don’t. That’s why manufacturers use them.
I have the special tool for installing and removing the spring clamps, which makes the process easier. I actually prefer them to worm-drive clamps now.
 

Bill 1960

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Yeah thats what I was thinking. We use those all the time at work, i’d probably go crazy and add a bunch of Hondabond around the base because there’s nothing I despise more than water leaks. The only thing I worry about then is the wire bend above the headliner and then the MC4 bends below the solar module itself.
If you go through in the area where the police vehicles run the light bar cable adjacent to the C pillar there’s plenty of space between the headliner and roof. I just removed a cable as thick as my middle finger from that location, that went through the roof. Let me know if you need a picture to identify the location.
 

Sparksalot

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Yeah thats what I was thinking. We use those all the time at work, i’d probably go crazy and add a bunch of Hondabond around the base because there’s nothing I despise more than water leaks. The only thing I worry about then is the wire bend above the headliner and then the MC4 bends below the solar module itself.
The lightbar cable is 4#10 conductors in an outer jacket. Plenty of room for it. Solar should be no issue.
 

Mickey_7106

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Question, ive seen some parts for sale here but theyre listed for '14+. I thought the '14 model was still a NNBS and something else from '15+, what changed?
 

R3cord303

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If you go through in the area where the police vehicles run the light bar cable adjacent to the C pillar there’s plenty of space between the headliner and roof. I just removed a cable as thick as my middle finger from that location, that went through the roof. Let me know if you need a picture to identify the location.
Oooo yes please. That would be awesome
 

wsteele

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Dreaming about tossing together a 6.0 with brand new block, crank, pistons, rings, bearings, and all gaskets that i don't already have...
View attachment 273632


:hmmm2:

I think you can buy a long block reman 6.0 from one of the major rebuilders for your estimate so far.

You don’t get to “stage 2+” it, or have the satisfaction of your own rebuild, but pretty cost effective.
 

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