Think you can do it on most vehicles. Especially on turbo charged vehicles.
Minor performance mods help.
- Thread starter Sandaman
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Think you can do it on most vehicles. Especially on turbo charged vehicles.
Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
I just became part of a Jeep Forum and some of the people there said that it didn’t do much on the little 2.4L NA engines, but they also suggested on turbos.
My previous car Lexus IS300 (GCC spec - sold as IS350 in the US) had a 3.0 engine, I changed the PCV once. It was stuck because of the gunk in it. I was planning to put a catch can in it. But I sold it. Also the smaller engine version the IS250 (2.5 v6) really needed a catch can due to carbon build up. So it also depends on the engine I think even if it has a smaller displacement.
TY
Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
This makes sense. Take the 2.4L Jeep engine that produces 180hp...that’s 75hp per Liter. My 07 Yukon with 6.2L 380 hp engine has only 61.3 hp per Liter. Perhaps I will install one in the Jeep just to be safe.
gooffeyguy
Tom
WTF does that have to do with carbon build up and PVC systems?
HP per liter, lol
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HP per liter, lol
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iamdub
Full Access Member
The components of the systems, if not metal, are actually a form of nylon. Not PVC.
gooffeyguy
Tom
Lol, you know I meant PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation). That's what I get for replying from my smart phone little keyboard with auto-correct....not so smartThe components of the systems, if not metal, are actually a form of nylon. Not PVC.
gooffeyguy
Tom
The setup I have on my Vortech supercharged 5.0 mustang is as follows
PCV port on intake manifold is plugged. No crankcase air gets into the intake track at all.
Mechanical vacuum pump driven by engine pulley. The suction side of this pump is attached to the front of a valve cover with a baffle. The outlet side is attached to a vented and baffled catch can. On the back of the lower manifold where the PCV valve would go, I have an adjustable air bypass valve set to give a constant 13-15" of vacuum in the crankcase. I also have a vacuum gauge mounted inside vehicle that shows crankcase vacuum at all times, which is tapped into a valve cover.
I know they make replacement oil fill tubes/caps that incorporate connections for a vacuum pump and also have an air bypass valve built in, but they're pricey...lol
PCV port on intake manifold is plugged. No crankcase air gets into the intake track at all.
Mechanical vacuum pump driven by engine pulley. The suction side of this pump is attached to the front of a valve cover with a baffle. The outlet side is attached to a vented and baffled catch can. On the back of the lower manifold where the PCV valve would go, I have an adjustable air bypass valve set to give a constant 13-15" of vacuum in the crankcase. I also have a vacuum gauge mounted inside vehicle that shows crankcase vacuum at all times, which is tapped into a valve cover.
I know they make replacement oil fill tubes/caps that incorporate connections for a vacuum pump and also have an air bypass valve built in, but they're pricey...lol
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I know you meant that. I'm just bored. Worked late in the shop last night and too sore to get involved in anything today.
Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
Not sure...still trying to wrap my pea sized brain around all of this. It’s not going so well though. Haha!
The components of the systems, if not metal, are actually a form of nylon. Not PVC.
lol.
Guys, @iamdub @gooffeyguy
Anything I can do to the gear box on my ride to make it more reliable. I think it has a 6L80. Something cheap. haha. Because I need to save for a couple months to do the tune.
TY
Anything I can do to the gear box on my ride to make it more reliable. I think it has a 6L80. Something cheap. haha. Because I need to save for a couple months to do the tune.
TY
Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
So your 5.0 could easily have 500 hp. And you might be in the upper RPM range more often than not racing, so a catch can seems like an obvious addition. But what about a stock, daily driven 2.4L that barely gets driven past 3000 RPM? Would it be worth the $120 and time to install it ? Still trying to figure out the applications it would prove useful to. Apparently it’s useful for the Yukon’s even if they aren’t seeing high RPM’s, so I’m a bit confused.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Keep clean and fresh fluid in it is about all. If you tow with it or run it in excessively hot weather, get a transmission fluid cooler. It's kind of overkill on a stock daily driver, but the Tru-Cool 40K (https://www.amazon.com/Tru-Cool-LPD47391-Pressure-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B0060NKA1U) is a popular item. You'd be fine with a little bit smaller one if that one's out of your budget. The best thing you could do to it is a good tune. GM has them tuned sloppy to make them cushy and comfortable. This allows extra slip (heat) and unnecessary extra shifts.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
^
biggest thing is to keep it cool.
If your up to pull the valve body on the thing, there are many improvements that can be made.
Many updated valves for the valve body if it has higher mileage.
Also good to check the techm to see if the lamanates are starting to split apart.
I did mine proactively, it improved shift quality. And i caught the techm pressure switch laminates early before they had really started to fail.
biggest thing is to keep it cool.
If your up to pull the valve body on the thing, there are many improvements that can be made.
Many updated valves for the valve body if it has higher mileage.
Also good to check the techm to see if the lamanates are starting to split apart.
I did mine proactively, it improved shift quality. And i caught the techm pressure switch laminates early before they had really started to fail.
I didn't understand. If you could post pics or maybe a YouTube video it would be helpful.
TY
Yup its available here. Almost 330$ for the cooler. Its too expensive for me haha. Its gets really hot here during summer. Is there like a shift kit or something that is cheap. And do shift kits make the transmission stronger?
TY
Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
I’m back in regards to the catch can, haha! Found another group of people who installs them. Jeepers (or off-roaders in general)...
He hadn’t installed one yet and said he’s got one on order. Other Jeepers claim this never happens to them as they have already installed catch cans. Ok...done. Sorry.
gooffeyguy
Tom
I would think on vehicles like that it'd be best to run a dry sump system
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Guys,
I modified the intake like I was advised. And added the AEM dry filter
I added a catch can (I know this doesn't increase performance)
Cheap muffler.
All this costed me 170$ as I got the catch can for free.
Are there any cheap ways to increase performance?
A tuning shop is asking me 500$ for tuning my Tahoe.
Another tuning shop said 800$ for AFM delete kit without cam. Plus the cost of the gaskets and head bolts. Then labor charge. Cam costs 500$ or more.
Also the shop said once I do the AFM delete I have to do a tune which again, costs 500$.
Asked another shop and they said their AFM delete kit was 3000$.
But I saw this AFM cam on the comp-cam website. Do you think it is good?
TY
I modified the intake like I was advised. And added the AEM dry filter
I added a catch can (I know this doesn't increase performance)
Cheap muffler.
All this costed me 170$ as I got the catch can for free.
Are there any cheap ways to increase performance?
A tuning shop is asking me 500$ for tuning my Tahoe.
Another tuning shop said 800$ for AFM delete kit without cam. Plus the cost of the gaskets and head bolts. Then labor charge. Cam costs 500$ or more.
Also the shop said once I do the AFM delete I have to do a tune which again, costs 500$.
Asked another shop and they said their AFM delete kit was 3000$.
But I saw this AFM cam on the comp-cam website. Do you think it is good?
TY
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