Kbuskill's 2008 Burb LTZ "MOD" Thread

[iamdub]

I am all but positive that the cheap Chicom oil cooler is what is leaching lead into the system. It is the only thing that makes sense to me for the lead readings to peak the way it did and then decline. And the copper numbers are good.

I agree with the oil cooler leaching lead. It's harmless, right?

I have a K&N filter in there currently and it is probably over due for a cleaning. I will make sure and clean it when the new radiator goes in.

Wouldn't a dirty filter actually filter the air better? I have an AEM DryFlow. As far as I know, AEM is owned by K&N or vice versa and the DryFlow filters are or were just a non-oiled variant of K&N's original design. So, we may have the same filter. You have a part number or pic of it handy? My intake tube has been "white glove test" spotless with it, but now you've got me wondering. I have an oil change coming up in about 1,000 miles. If I can remember, I'll send a sample for analysis.

 

[kbuskill]

It's just the stock air box replacement filter.

K&N #33-2129

 

[kbuskill]

Cold Case arrived today...

I finally will have the petcock that GM didn't install like they should have.

I think Benjamin approves... lol

I just posted that last pic to reference the thickness of the core.

I guess I will be swapping from Dex-cool (orange) coolant over to the old school Green coolant per Cold Case's recommendation.

So gonna have to flush the cooling system thoroughly.

Hopefully there are no issues or surprises with the install. I've read that the upper mounts may have to be trimmed slightly to clear the core support and the cooling fans shroud may have to be trimmed slightly as well.

I also looked at the top port on the passenger side that goes to the surge tank on my stock radiator and it appears to be the same size as the new one... unless the restrictor is further up inside the radiator.

 

[iamdub]

It's just the stock air box replacement filter.

K&N #33-2129
View attachment 266476

Ok, so the AEM is different.

Mine, AEM #28-20129:

 

[kbuskill]

Ok, so the AEM is different.

Mine, AEM #28-20129:

Not much difference... looks like the K&N has more pleats maybe?

 

[iamdub]

Not much difference... looks like the K&N has more pleats maybe?

A lot more pleats. I still can't find a straight answer as to who owns who, but my main question was if the AEM and K&N were identical and just different labels. Of course, they may be now.

Since you're an analytical type as well, wipe out the inside of your intake tube with a paper towel when you service your filter.

Also, speaking of analysis, are you taking note of any current temperature characteristics with your stock rad to compare with the new rad?

 

[Just Fishing]

Nice looking rad, i like the drain!

 

[kbuskill]

A lot more pleats. I still can't find a straight answer as to who owns who, but my main question was if the AEM and K&N were identical and just different labels. Of course, they may be now.

Since you're an analytical type as well, wipe out the inside of your intake tube with a paper towel when you service your filter.

Also, speaking of analysis, are you taking note of any current temperature characteristics with your stock rad to compare with the new rad?

My normal operating temperature on the gauge, as we all know, is right at the half way mark 210°... but the OBD2 data shows it consistently at 192°- 194°.

I don't expect to see any real difference at operating temperature since I am not changing the thermostat's temperature.

I would expect it to take longer to get up to operating temperature though.

I will probably never notice a difference because I ALWAYS remote start the truck twice to get it up to operating temperature before driving it. Winter, Summer, Spring, Fall.... I don't care, I am a big proponent of letting vehicles warm up before driving.

I will try to remember to look at the temperature on the OBD2 while driving though and see if I notice anything different.

 

[Rocket Man]

There’s a lot of research that says warming up today’s engines before driving is worse for the engine than just starting up and driving. The engine warms up faster by driving and the faster it warms up the better since it runs rich until it does. Running rich has a tendency to decrease the lubrication in the cylinders. I’m curious why you’re a proponent? I know that used to be the thing to do on carbureted engines but I learned a long time ago it’s not good for computer controlled fi engines. There’s plenty of information out there to back this up. But then you have great data from Blackstone that shows your engine is wearing fine so idk.

 

[kbuskill]

There’s a lot of research that says warming up today’s engines before driving is worse for the engine than just starting up and driving. The engine warms up faster by driving and the faster it warms up the better since it runs rich until it does. Running rich has a tendency to decrease the lubrication in the cylinders. I’m curious why you’re a proponent? I know that used to be the thing to do on carbureted engines but I learned a long time ago it’s not good for computer controlled fi engines. There’s plenty of information out there to back this up.

I haven't researched it in a long time so I can't remember the stats off the top of my head but I remember reading that the majority of wear occurs at start up and jumping in and driving a cold engine/transmission just exacerbates the problem. The jist of it was when the engine is cold the oil hasn't warmed and circulated into everything properly yet, the differing metals haven't expanded due to heat yet, etc.

Maybe I'm wrong but I have been in the habit of doing it for a long time.

Drives me up a wall to see someone come out and hop in their vehicle and turn the key and be backing out of their driveway before the starter has even stopped spinning... lol

 

[Rocket Man]

I haven't researched it in a long time so I can't remember the stats off the top of my head but I remember reading that the majority of wear occurs at start up and jumping in and driving a cold engine/transmission just exacerbates the problem. The jist of it was when the engine is cold the oil hasn't warmed and circulated into everything properly yet, the differing metals haven't expanded due to heat yet, etc.

Maybe I'm wrong but I have been in the habit of doing it for a long time.

Drives me up a wall to see someone come out and hop in their vehicle and turn the key and be backing out of their driveway before the starter has even stopped spinning... lol

Actually that’s supposedly best for the engine. As soon as oil pressure comes up, it’s good to start driving. The engine warms up faster that way and creates less wear. That’s what I learned about 20 years ago and haven’t seen anything to change my mind. 30 seconds is the consensus from the time you start it to the time you put it in drive. Even on Bob Is The Oil Guy forums it is consensus- 30 seconds and drive away is best even in freezing temps.
https://www.popularmechanics.com/ca...ng-up-your-car-in-the-cold-just-harms-engine/


https://www.npr.org/2017/12/29/574693579/should-you-warm-up-your-car-before-driving-to-work

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/let-the-truck-warm-up.316862/#post-5240914

 

[Just Fishing]

I haven't researched it in a long time so I can't remember the stats off the top of my head but I remember reading that the majority of wear occurs at start up and jumping in and driving a cold engine/transmission just exacerbates the problem. The jist of it was when the engine is cold the oil hasn't warmed and circulated into everything properly yet, the differing metals haven't expanded due to heat yet, etc.

Maybe I'm wrong but I have been in the habit of doing it for a long time.

Drives me up a wall to see someone come out and hop in their vehicle and turn the key and be backing out of their driveway before the starter has even stopped spinning... lol

I did that a lot to my S10.
When i had the intake off a few years ago, you could see some signs of some issues.

My Tahoe, this thing was garaged it's whole life.
And i believe that the prior owners allowed it to warm up a bit (probably via remote start) before going anywhere.
My valve train looked fantastic when i removed it.

Had me scratching my head a bit, i assumed the lifters would look a lot like my S10, but then again it's possible with the AFM, they had been replaced at some time in the past...


I also heard that oil performs better hot.
the less amount of load the engine has while the oil is cold the better.
I also heard that it's best to get the oil fully up to operating temp before getting getting pedal heavy...

I try and let my engines warm up before driving them.

 

[iamdub]

Actually that’s supposedly best for the engine. As soon as oil pressure comes up, it’s good to start driving. The engine warms up faster that way and creates less wear. That’s what I learned about 20 years ago and haven’t seen anything to change my mind. 30 seconds is the consensus from the time you start it to the time you put it in drive. Even on Bob Is The Oil Guy forums it is consensus- 30 seconds and drive away is best even in freezing temps.
https://www.popularmechanics.com/ca...ng-up-your-car-in-the-cold-just-harms-engine/


https://www.npr.org/2017/12/29/574693579/should-you-warm-up-your-car-before-driving-to-work

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/let-the-truck-warm-up.316862/#post-5240914

I think the misunderstanding is that it's okay (and recommended) to start driving, but not racing. Don't cold start it then immediately go red light racing or hard throttle to merge onto the freeway. Also, "cold start" has different definitions for different climates. In milder winter temps, such as here in the south where Ken and I live, the engine doesn't take as long to warm up. So, while it does run richer to help warm it up, it's not for very long. Modern EFI engines pretty much have to have something wrong with them to be running rich enough to wash down the cylinders. Really, all a long warm up in the south does is waste fuel and increase emissions. During warm weather, I think 30-60 seconds or so is plenty before easing away. I go by the idle of mine- when it starts to drop from that high idle RPM, it's good to go, but not romping on. This is for the engine AND transmission's sake. By the time you get through a few stop signs or city blocks en route to the highway, you should be well out of open loop and no longer running rich. If you live right off a freeway and your driveway is practically on the on-ramp, then give it some more time before you mash out. I can't speak much for the colder (ice/snow) areas, but I'd say a few minutes of normal idling, even if it's still slightly elevated, is plenty. You shouldn't be going hard throttle in the snow on public streets, anyway. There's a difference between "warming up" and the oil and coolant "reaching normal operating temperature".

 

[iamdub]

I did that a lot to my S10.
When i had the intake off a few years ago, you could see some signs of some issues.

My Tahoe, this thing was garaged it's whole life.
And i believe that the prior owners allowed it to warm up a bit (probably via remote start) before going anywhere.
My valve train looked fantastic when i removed it.

Had me scratching my head a bit, i assumed the lifters would look a lot like my S10, but then again it's possible with the AFM, they had been replaced at some time in the past...


I also heard that oil performs better hot.
the less amount of load the engine has while the oil is cold the better.
I also heard that it's best to get the oil fully up to operating temp before getting getting pedal heavy...

I try and let my engines warm up before driving them.

An S10's engine and an LS engine isn't much of an apples to apples comparison. The 4.3 was based off the GenII SBC, and so it's level of efficiency was the same. I can't imagine the 2.2 or 2.5 (I don't know the year or engine of your aforementioned S10) being any more advanced, especially the 2.5 which was a much older design. To give you an idea of this vast difference in efficiency, my '02 S10, 4.3/4A, averaged 16 city and 22 highway. My '08 Tahoe, back when it was all stock, got the same despite it's larger engine, 2,000 lbs more weight and much larger body. All the mods since have not decreased the MPG any. Actually, I've only increased the efficiency. I saw a tiny increase (~.5-1 MPG) with the intake and exhaust and saw a 1-2 MPG increase from that with the cam, headers, compression, etc. Yeah, it's at a rather narrow cruising speed range, but it's around 60-70 MPH so it's a usable gain, nonetheless.

My point with the fuel efficiency is not so much to showcase MPG as it is to how well the engines use (burn) the fuel. More efficient burning of the fuel leads to less carbonizing in the cylinders and less buildup in the oil system, which means cleaner internals, cleaner PCV system and cleaner intake manifold.

 

[Rocket Man]

I think the misunderstanding is that it's okay (and recommended) to start driving, but not racing. Don't cold start it then immediately go red light racing or hard throttle to merge onto the freeway. Also, "cold start" has different definitions for different climates. In milder winter temps, such as here in the south where Ken and I live, the engine doesn't take as long to warm up. So, while it does run richer to help warm it up, it's not for very long. Modern EFI engines pretty much have to have something wrong with them to be running rich enough to wash down the cylinders. Really, all a long warm up in the south does is waste fuel and increase emissions. During warm weather, I think 30-60 seconds or so is plenty before easing away. I go by the idle of mine- when it starts to drop from that high idle RPM, it's good to go, but not romping on. This is for the engine AND transmission's sake. By the time you get through a few stop signs or city blocks en route to the highway, you should be well out of open loop and no longer running rich. If you live right off a freeway and your driveway is practically on the on-ramp, then give it some more time before you mash out. I can't speak much for the colder (ice/snow) areas, but I'd say a few minutes of normal idling, even if it's still slightly elevated, is plenty. You shouldn't be going hard throttle in the snow on public streets, anyway. There's a difference between "warming up" and the oil and coolant "reaching normal operating temperature".

Yeah, I just drive “normal” until everything is up to operating temp, then I can race lol. If I’m warming it up for a few minutes, it’s for my comfort or to clear ice off the windshield but in reality I use warm tap water to do that so if it’s there’s ice on it I just start it up, pour a pitcher of warm water on the glass and drive away. Otherwise I just start it up and drive away after high idle stops, usually 30 seconds or so.

 

[Just Fishing]

An S10's engine and an LS engine isn't much of an apples to apples comparison. The 4.3 was based off the GenII SBC, and so it's level of efficiency was the same. I can't imagine the 2.2 or 2.5 (I don't know the year or engine of your aforementioned S10) being any more advanced, especially the 2.5 which was a much older design. To give you an idea of this vast difference in efficiency, my '02 S10, 4.3/4A, averaged 16 city and 22 highway. My '08 Tahoe, back when it was all stock, got the same despite it's larger engine, 2,000 lbs more weight and much larger body. All the mods since have not decreased the MPG any. Actually, I've only increased the efficiency. I saw a tiny increase (~.5-1 MPG) with the intake and exhaust and saw a 1-2 MPG increase from that with the cam, headers, compression, etc. Yeah, it's at a rather narrow cruising speed range, but it's around 60-70 MPH so it's a usable gain, nonetheless.

My point with the fuel efficiency is not so much to showcase MPG as it is to how well the engines use (burn) the fuel. More efficient burning of the fuel leads to less carbonizing in the cylinders and less buildup in the oil system, which means cleaner internals, cleaner PCV system and cleaner intake manifold.

03 4.3, and yeah my S10 got terrible gas mileage.
On a good day at highway speeds i got 18... lol

and I was not totally clear.
I was actually talking about the lifters, the rollers looked pretty sad.
Almost like i had a valve lash issue...
However i never noticed any sort of ticking noise coming from the valve train, not even on very cold mornings.

 

[kbuskill]

The Cold Case is not a direct Plug & Play radiator for our trucks.

It is very close but did require some slight modifications to make everything fit properly.

We had to trim the top and bottom of the fan shroud a little bit to get the fans to sit close enough to the core to fit into the brackets on the radiator.

The upper radiator mounts also required some slight trimming where they over hang the end tanks to clear the core support. I suppose that the lower rubber bushings could have been trimmed down to lower the radiator slightly but I didn't want to take the chance of it sitting too low and possibly rubbing on the bottom.

We also had to bend the condenser brackets forward just a bit to give a little extra clearance so it doesn't touch the radiator tanks.

Other than those small tweaks everything fits and works nicely.

Here are some more pics for reference...

 

[iamdub]

Those small tweaks and mods aren't bad at all considering it's an aftermarket piece "blindly" made to fit.

Looks grea- I mean, could you at least have painted the tanks flat black so it would at least appear somewhat OEM?

 

[kbuskill]

Those small tweaks and mods aren't bad at all considering it's an aftermarket piece "blindly" made to fit.

Looks grea- I mean, could you at least have painted the tanks flat black so it would at least appear somewhat OEM?

Also, I accidentally lied to you about my "K&N" filter... when I pulled it today to clean it I realized that it is actually a Spectre HPR8755.

The last pic was before cleaning and re-oiling.

 

[Rocket Man]

The Cold Case is not a direct Plug & Play radiator for our trucks.

It is very close but did require some slight modifications to make everything fit properly.

We had to trim the top and bottom of the fan shroud a little bit to get the fans to sit close enough to the core to fit into the brackets on the radiator.

The upper radiator mounts also required some slight trimming where they over hang the end tanks to clear the core support. I suppose that the lower rubber bushings could have been trimmed down to lower the radiator slightly but I didn't want to take the chance of it sitting too low and possibly rubbing on the bottom.

We also had to bend the condenser brackets forward just a bit to give a little extra clearance so it doesn't touch the radiator tanks.

Other than those small tweaks everything fits and works nicely.

Here are some more pics for reference...
View attachment 266586

View attachment 266587

View attachment 266588

Trans and oil cooler lines connected ok?