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Don’t think I installed this right... it seems to stick out too much. Thoughts?
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I was hoping to say I changed the cabin air filter, but today I learned the NNBS did not actually come with a cabin filter from the factory. While there is a retrofit, it's more involved than simply changing a filter.
RockAuto happily sold me a $26 carbon filter though...
Vendor (GetOEMParts) emailed me. Parts on national backorder. Order canceled. GRRR...I bit the bullet and ordered new engine and trans mounts. Driver side broke a couple of months ago, thanks to Black Bear and my right foot.
Motor mount [Hummer H3 solid rubber] (2): 25847739
Trans mount [GMC Yukon Denali AWD] (1): 15840278
I'm going to take a crack at installing myself. Wish me luck.
It looks fine to me. If anything rotate it a smidge so they face more down instead of straight out the side. Maybe that will help with the visual.Don’t think I installed this right... it seems to stick out too much. Thoughts?
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I did it in my Holden with the factory Bose stereo still intact. Used a lc2i signal processor and tapped off a speaker signal wire. In my case I have factory subs also but very weak so I tapped off one of them.Have any of you put subs in while leaving the stock head unit and door speakers? I know its the less preferred way to do it- but i kind of want to pull the subs out of my old truck and put them in the back. I know you need a LOC to do this- what one and where does it need to go to do this?
Have any of you put subs in while leaving the stock head unit and door speakers? I know its the less preferred way to do it- but i kind of want to pull the subs out of my old truck and put them in the back. I know you need a LOC to do this- what one and where does it need to go to do this?
Or you can tap the amp inlets instead of the out. Pre digital processing. Then no worries about lost signal.The problem with tapping into the speaker wires with a LOC is that a lot of the bass has already been filtered out by the Bose amp to go to the factory Bose sub. If the LOC can handle the wattage, tapping into the signal to the Bose sub may produce satisfactory results. The problems there are (1) it's a DVC sub and (2) it's a small sub so it's crossover has been programmed accordingly and this may leave some to be desired with a larger sub system.
I've found pictures and wiring diagrams before, but you can tap into the low-level, full-range signal going to the Bose amp with some RCAs (cut the RCAs and solder them in) and run RCAs to your sub amp as normal.
Looks cool to me.Don’t think I installed this right... it seems to stick out too much. Thoughts?
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Goin through something, took a quick trip to Canada to blow off some steam:
It hasn't blown up yet!
)Goodness your exhaust sounds good!Goin through something, took a quick trip to Canada to blow off some steam:
It hasn't blown up yet!
if you have the bose system then likely the bass signal is filtered by the bose amp so you would need to tap the stock bass speaker output with a hi/lo adapter, if you used say a door speaker output you may not get any bass signal out of it.Have any of you put subs in while leaving the stock head unit and door speakers? I know its the less preferred way to do it- but i kind of want to pull the subs out of my old truck and put them in the back. I know you need a LOC to do this- what one and where does it need to go to do this?