ok. thks. will check that out.
Heater Hose Blew Out
- Thread starter Joseph Garcia
- Start date
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Actually I replaced mine preemptively when they were 7 years old, with new oem T's and hose's.
Looked my order up on RA. Bought dorman T and Gates straight fitting. March 2014. And the Dorman wasn't w/ the CD notation.
Maybe need to look at replacement?
I would, and I would use the OEM parts.
I don't think they did the changed until the last year or maybe 2, but like mark said oem is best the T's are not that much like $25 each unless you want to be a baller and get the Gruven metal ones
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Update.
I replaced both 'T's with new GM 'T's, and it was still a royal PIA. I purchased 2 'quick disconnect' tools, but neither on worked, so I might as well have flushed the money down the toilet and saved the commute time to the parts store. I had to cut all of the quick disconnects with a hacksaw blade to remove them in the method that I previously described. To accomplish this task, I had to stand on a step stool, bend over the passenger side front fender, lean down over the motor, and then twist my upper body to the left, to get my arms in a position to access the 'T's. This was real interesting, to say the least, as I had my left shoulder replaced 8 months ago, and it is still healing.
Needless to say, as an old man, I am sore from finger tips to toes today. I even cut my fingers in 2 places, as a result of having to use the bare hacksaw blade. But, a PIA job needs to have the subsequent aches, cuts, and bruises, in order to justify it being a PIA job.
One thing to note for folks performing this task in the future. Wear gloves, as the sound deadening material wrapping the underside of the cowl, over the 'T's has a fiberglass material, similar to old home insulation that gets into your skin, and the back of my hands still itch from the contact with the material.
I've also replaced both radiator hoses and the coolant bypass hose, all of which were original parts on the truck with 2007 date codes. I used new screw clamps, replacing the original spring clamps. I am now waiting delivery of both heater hoses, scheduled for tomorrow.
I replaced both 'T's with new GM 'T's, and it was still a royal PIA. I purchased 2 'quick disconnect' tools, but neither on worked, so I might as well have flushed the money down the toilet and saved the commute time to the parts store. I had to cut all of the quick disconnects with a hacksaw blade to remove them in the method that I previously described. To accomplish this task, I had to stand on a step stool, bend over the passenger side front fender, lean down over the motor, and then twist my upper body to the left, to get my arms in a position to access the 'T's. This was real interesting, to say the least, as I had my left shoulder replaced 8 months ago, and it is still healing.
Needless to say, as an old man, I am sore from finger tips to toes today. I even cut my fingers in 2 places, as a result of having to use the bare hacksaw blade. But, a PIA job needs to have the subsequent aches, cuts, and bruises, in order to justify it being a PIA job.
One thing to note for folks performing this task in the future. Wear gloves, as the sound deadening material wrapping the underside of the cowl, over the 'T's has a fiberglass material, similar to old home insulation that gets into your skin, and the back of my hands still itch from the contact with the material.
I've also replaced both radiator hoses and the coolant bypass hose, all of which were original parts on the truck with 2007 date codes. I used new screw clamps, replacing the original spring clamps. I am now waiting delivery of both heater hoses, scheduled for tomorrow.
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Ya, I guess I should have mentioned that a pair of long needle nose pliers will work to snap those sections off I took it at as a given that most people would use something of that nature they are a pia, however putting them back together is much easier, you got the hard part done.Update.
I replaced both 'T's with new GM 'T's, and it was still a royal PIA. I purchased 2 'quick disconnect' tools, but neither on worked, so I might as well have flushed the money down the toilet and saved the commute time to the parts store. I had to cut all of the quick disconnects with a hacksaw blade to remove them in the method that I previously described. To accomplish this task, I had to stand on a step stool, bend over the passenger side front fender, lean down over the motor, and then twist my upper body to the left, to get my arms in a position to access the 'T's. This was real interesting, to say the least, as I had my left shoulder replaced 8 months ago, and it is still healing.
Needless to say, as an old man, I am sore from finger tips to toes today. I even cut my fingers in 2 places, as a result of having to use the bare hacksaw blade. But, a PIA job needs to have the subsequent aches, cuts, and bruises, in order to justify it being a PIA job.
One thing to note for folks performing this task in the future. Wear gloves, as the sound deadening material wrapping the underside of the cowl, over the 'T's has a fiberglass material, similar to old home insulation that gets into your skin, and the back of my hands still itch from the contact with the material.
I've also replaced both radiator hoses and the coolant bypass hose, all of which were original parts on the truck with 2007 date codes. I used new screw clamps, replacing the original spring clamps. I am now waiting delivery of both heater hoses, scheduled for tomorrow.
I meant to post: put some lubricant on the fitting O-rings and they will go on even easier...
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Somebody mentioned that suggestion in one of the posts on this thread, and I did clean and then lube both sides of the fittings and o-rings with a 90% silicon lube, prior to installing.
RTLINGR2
Member
I would replace the tee's as well. You can by the tee's and the hose end quick couplers all individually without hoses. If never replaced the hoses i would change those too. If buying aftermarket use Gates. DON'T use the Doorman ones. They're junk and don't fit properly. Other than that use the OE ones. I like the idea of the alluminum ones the other members posted up as well.
Lol see post #46.
RTLINGR2
Member
Sorry, I didnt see there were multiple pages. Did not mean to step on toes or repeat anything. Wasn't till i saw your reponse that i saw 6 pages. Thought i read them all. Where is the post # located on the page or do you have physically count?
gooffeyguy
Tom
I keep a tube of K-Y in the top drawer of my tool box just for use on o-rings.
The water based lube won't harm or cause the rubber to deteriorate/break down like other lubes.
My wife just thinks I'm cheating on her.....lol
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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At first, I was not going to replace the 'T's, since it was such a PIA to remove just the heater hose couplings from the 'T's. But, after many folks here replied, strongly recommending that I replace the 'T's as well, I did go ahead and replace the 'T's with GM parts, and not Dorman parts (again, at the strong recommendation of folks here).
That is what makes this Forum so powerful and helpful. Knowledge is power, and it helps to not have to do the same job twice or more, because it was not done 'completely' the first time.
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No toes stepped on, for sure!!
Better to have multiple good recommendations, than to be missing the good recommendation in the first place.
It’s ok. I was just messin, I figured you hadn’t got to the end of the thread get. Post #’s are at the right of the black bar at the top of every post, across from where the date and time of the post is.
Oh GREAT lol.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Hey Joe, what were those tools that turned out to be useless? Posting up their part numbers and names would be helpful too for folks in the future.
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