Plain N Simple - Esky Log

[Tide]

Went by this morning to my mechanic.

Plan for Monday is new plugs and #7 injector. Also getting the bump stops cut down as well.

Hopefully that’ll fix the misfire.


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[kbuskill]

getting the bump stops cut down

Hopefully that’ll fix the misfire.


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Solid plan ... lol

 

[Tide]

Just picked it up. He ran a compression test and everything was fine. Checked the temp of each header close to the manifold and he said the temps got up to 700 at idle. While I was there he started it and after 3-4 min they were over 500 already. He said normal was 4-450 range. Any thoughts on this?

New plugs and a oil pressure sensor did the trick. It’s idling much better. I’ll get a video this afternoon at idle and hopefully some driving ones later this week if the weather is decent.


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[kbuskill]

Just picked it up. He ran a compression test and everything was fine. Checked the temp of each header close to the manifold and he said the temps got up to 700 at idle. While I was there he started it and after 3-4 min they were over 500 already. He said normal was 4-450 range. Any thoughts on this?

New plugs and a oil pressure sensor did the trick. It’s idling much better. I’ll get a video this afternoon at idle and hopefully some driving ones later this week if the weather is decent.


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I know my exhaust manifolds ran about 350°- 400° at idle and my headers run about the same but they are ceramic coated.

I would expect bare, non-coated, headers to run hotter for sure because of the thinner walls of the tubes.

I also would think running lean would cause a rise in exhaust temperatures as well... just thinking out loud.

 

[Tide]

I know my exhaust manifolds ran about 350°- 400° at idle and my headers run about the same but they are ceramic coated.

I would expect bare, non-coated, headers to run hotter for sure because of the thinner walls of the tubes.

I also would think running lean would cause a rise in exhaust temperatures as well... just thinking out loud.

That is what my mechanic was thinking as well.
My headers are ceramic coated as well so they should be similar to yours temp wise.

I’m going to make a log for Justin soon. I’ll make sure that’s mentioned.


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[Tide]

Decided to add some more weight to it. Knock off Dynamat going in.

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[Tide]

I had zero intentions of doing this but corona and a ton of old sound deadening material laying around lead me to it.

85% of all flooring behind the front seats is now covered in Kilmat or NVS butyl based sound deadening. The NVS is .87 mil thick vs. the .80 mill of Kilmat, the NVS has a much heavier feel to it. I used both just depending on how easy the area was to access, the only carpet that was fully removed was the center piece that goes under and between the rear captains chairs. This was my first time installing it on one of these and I didn’t want to risk pulling the carpet and fight myself trying to re install. Took just over 3 hours to do everything. I could probly cut an hour off that if I had to do it again.

Next up will be the rear cargo door and maybe the door panels if corona depression really sits in.

Kilmat is the smaller sheet and NVS the larger.

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[Tide]

After my last post I immediately went outside and did the cargo door and driver side wheel well where the air pump is located.

Drove around and there might be a slight decrease in some of the deeper tones.

In typical fashion I went ahead and ordered 36 sqft of 150 mil closed cell foam.... Amazon says it won’t be here for three weeks but if history repeats I’ll have it end of next week. It’s too easy to take everything apart to not give this stuff a go.


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[mikeyss]

Doesn't the Escalade's have the rpo BS1 that includes extra insulation? I have been looking for what all that includes, but there is no clear part numbers. I have researched and found BS1 has thicker front window glass, and insulation over the rear wheel wheels in the interior behind the trim panels. Escalade's also have padded inserts in the upper and lower door panels. I am surprised you need more sound deadening, lol

 

[Tide]

Doesn't the Escalade's have the rpo BS1 that includes extra insulation? I have been looking for what all that includes, but there is no clear part numbers. I have researched and found BS1 has thicker front window glass, and insulation over the rear wheel wheels in the interior behind the trim panels. Escalade's also have padded inserts in the upper and lower door panels. I am surprised you need more sound deadening, lol

I’ve read in the past that they do have more sound deadening than other trim levels, but I have no idea what that is. I’m guessing most vehicles don’t come with the pad inbetween the carpet and flooring? It doesn’t cover the entire floor, just certain areas. There is padding in the rear driver side wheel well but it is not on the floor, but instead it’s attached to the plastic covers hiding it.

Between the catless headers and muffler swap it definitely talks to you at certain RPM. If I’m cruising on the freeway I can barely hear it, but once I start to drive like a ******* the volume really cranks up. Honestly I’m just looking for shit to do at this point. Everyone talks about sound deadening but from my past experiences the butyl doesn’t do jack, curious to see what the closed cell foam does.


Also working on some viynl pieces. So far I’ve removed the plastidip on the window chrome accent pieces and replaced it with viynl. Still need to do the door guards and then the interior. I decided to go with a satin black for the interior pieces. Everything that’s silver in this pic will eventually be wrapped. Curious to see how it turns out.

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[mikeyss]

I am about to tackle my Tahoe and add some deadening to the door panels and the rear wheel wells since all I have is bare metal back there. Now that I see yours, I know where else I have to add some. GM kinda got cheap on deadening after the first row of seats, lol

 

[iamdub]

I'd venture to think they did actual testing to determine where insulation should be applied. There's a science to it, but total blanketing of a panel may not be as effective as just isolated tiles. The outside noise you hear on the inside is from the panels resonating. Stick some tiles in some strategic areas and you break up the resonant frequency(ies) of the panel. Total blanketing of a panel would effectively just make a thicker panel that would just resonate at frequencies higher or lower than previously. You'd perceive a change, and it may be satisfactory results to you, but it may not be as efficient as it could be and you could be wasting a lot of insulation. Insulation adds weight and costs money. If GM were to just haphazardly slap a bunch of it in every Escalade, Denali, etc. ever produced, it'd add up to huge unnecessary manufacturing costs and extra weight. I believe the factory sound insulating can be improved as the engineers have to strike a balance between cost and effect. As an average Joe Car Owner and non-acoustical engineer with no measuring equipment, the most we can do is apply additional insulation with an educated mindset.

My idea for when I do mine is to blanket the more offending panels such as the doors, floors and ceiling with some thinner stuff to first lower the resonant frequency and increase the thermal insulation aspect. Then, I'll apply thicker/heavier tiles in the wider, lesser-supported areas to break up and dampen any remaining resonance.

 

[Tide]

I am about to tackle my Tahoe and add some deadening to the door panels and the rear wheel wells since all I have is bare metal back there. Now that I see yours, I know where else I have to add some. GM kinda got cheap on deadening after the first row of seats, lol

I would cover 90% of the interior if all of it would be out of the car already. I’d love to get the roof knocked out. I would seriously look into closed cell foam if you are considering doing any deadening. From what I’ve experienced and read it seems to be the real factor in cutting down on noise. This is a multi layer process unfortunately.

I'd venture to think they did actual testing to determine where insulation should be applied. There's a science to it, but total blanketing of a panel may not be as effective as just isolated tiles. The outside noise you hear on the inside is from the panels resonating. Stick some tiles in some strategic areas and you break up the resonant frequency(ies) of the panel. Total blanketing of a panel would effectively just make a thicker panel that would just resonate at frequencies higher or lower than previously. You'd perceive a change, and it may be satisfactory results to you, but it may not be as efficient as it could be and you could be wasting a lot of insulation. Insulation adds weight and costs money. If GM were to just haphazardly slap a bunch of it in every Escalade, Denali, etc. ever produced, it'd add up to huge unnecessary manufacturing costs and extra weight. I believe the factory sound insulating can be improved as the engineers have to strike a balance between cost and effect. As an average Joe Car Owner and non-acoustical engineer with no measuring equipment, the most we can do is apply additional insulation with an educated mindset.

My idea for when I do mine is to blanket the more offending panels such as the doors, floors and ceiling with some thinner stuff to first lower the resonant frequency and increase the thermal insulation aspect. Then, I'll apply thicker/heavier tiles in the wider, lesser-supported areas to break up and dampen any remaining resonance.

I’ve done a good amount of reading on it the past few years. From what I recall it’s recommended to do a certain % of the bare metal with butyl based foil. Once you do any more than that the return is negligible. I’ve got three large boxes laying around. I’m trying to get rid of the stuff more than anything.

I put 2-3 layers in the door skins of my F250 and then a layer on the door panel itself. I couldn’t tell any difference in noise with MT’s and deleted exhaust. Doing the floors and cargo door with the deep exhaust seems to make a very slight change. From what I’ve read the closed cell foam is the key item to reducing the sound levels. The more the better. Once I get the stuff I’ve ordered I’ll make sure to do a comparison. If things go well there I might look into the options for the doors. I’ve still got a ton of butyl mat.

On the stock setup right now they use a gell and just let it dry in certain areas as a vibration reducer, I would say this is maybe in 5-10% of the floor? Followed by a 3/4” thick pad of carpet materials as deadener in certain areas, and then covered by the final carpet. The cargo area also has the carpet deadener. None of this is expensive or game changing in regards to sound reduction. It may be better than a base model but that’s it.



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[mikeyss]

@iambub...
I 100% agree with you, except that, ONLY the Denali and the Escalade had that treatment of specially placed sound deadening. The Tahoe, and non Denali Yukon's are missing parts of that package. Even the front side glass is different on Denali and Escalade. I work for a packaging protecting plant and I have access to closed cell foam, that's what I'm gonna line the rear wheel well with, and add it to the cotton backing the door panels have. I plan on doing the roof, eventually

 

[iamdub]

I would cover 90% of the interior if all of it would be out of the car already. I’d love to get the roof knocked out. I would seriously look into closed cell foam if you are considering doing any deadening. From what I’ve experienced and read it seems to be the real factor in cutting down on noise. This is a multi layer process unfortunately.



I’ve done a good amount of reading on it the past few years. From what I recall it’s recommended to do a certain % of the bare metal with butyl based foil. Once you do any more than that the return is negligible. I’ve got three large boxes laying around. I’m trying to get rid of the stuff more than anything.

I put 2-3 layers in the door skins of my F250 and then a layer on the door panel itself. I couldn’t tell any difference in noise with MT’s and deleted exhaust. Doing the floors and cargo door with the deep exhaust seems to make a very slight change. From what I’ve read the closed cell foam is the key item to reducing the sound levels. The more the better. Once I get the stuff I’ve ordered I’ll make sure to do a comparison. If things go well there I might look into the options for the doors. I’ve still got a ton of butyl mat.

On the stock setup right now they use a gell and just let it dry in certain areas as a vibration reducer, I would say this is maybe in 5-10% of the floor? Followed by a 3/4” thick pad of carpet materials as deadener in certain areas, and then covered by the final carpet. The cargo area also has the carpet deadener. None of this is expensive or game changing in regards to sound reduction. It may be better than a base model but that’s it.



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The foam makes more sense than blanketing with layer(s) of dense material. It would absorb and muffle rather than just alter the resonant frequency.

 

[Sam Harris]

The foam makes more sense than blanketing with layer(s) of dense material. It would absorb and muffle rather than just alter the resonant frequency.

And light weight!

 

[Tide]

The foam makes more sense than blanketing with layer(s) of dense material. It would absorb and muffle rather than just alter the resonant frequency.

Did a little refresher on it last night. The closed cell foam won’t make a substantial difference in noise control. Another layer of mass loaded viynl is needed to do that on top of the foam. The viynl is much more costly(3-4 times what the other materials cost). After a few drinks this evening I’ll Probly pull the trigger.


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[Tide]

The satin black wrap showed up earlier than expected. Went ahead and got started earlier. Knocked out the first panel, removed the second, and quickly realized the film was a little small. Go figure.

[

Side note. Any model that has the silver vinyl like mine with ridges, they will still be noticeable with a wrap. I don’t mind them so no problem for me.


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[Tide]

40 square feet of mass loaded vinyl heading my way. I’ve got a larger muffler laying around that I haven’t tried out. Going to give that a go soon as well. I might add it in conjunction with the round body dynomax and factory resonator. I’ll see how just the swap goes then adjust if needed.


The vinyl on the interior dash is growing on me. Turns out I ordered a larger roll as well but they are shipping it separately. That was over 2 weeks ago when I first ordered. There are a couple section I didn’t realize were wrapped in the factory brushed aluminum, and likely the hardest ones for me to do. My skills will have to improve pretty quickly.



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[Tide]

Still waiting on the MLV and larger vinyl pieces for the interior.

I finished up the door panel trim today on the back doors. The front is slightly larger and the 2” strip of vinyl I have is just too close for me. A pro could probly do it but I am far from that, I need more material I can waste.

Vinyl

Chrome and plastidip.

Vinyl vs plastidip and glossifer top coat.

From here it’s a waiting game on things to come in. I need to redo the interior piece I did. Also need to order more gloss 3m in larger pieces. I might attempt and do other areas as well. Roof rack, mirrors, running boards. Etc. If I can get these other items pieces done on the interior and I should be able to get exterior items done. Still trying to figure out what I’m doing with the vinyl.

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