What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Heat soak? I’m thinking about insulating the tube and the manifold after I have my charge air resonator delete done

I don't think it's heat soak. The PCM will retard timing using IATs as part of the algorithm, so the tube or intake being heat soaked shouldn't be a factor since the timing would be retarded for that right off the bat. Also, the air in the tube and IM is passing through too quickly and there's no real surface area inside the tract for it to pick up the heat. It only happens if I give it WOT or near WOT and at higher RPM, so it's load-based (which includes cylinder pressure). It's less frequent with 89 and I don't recall hearing it at all with 93. It's not much, just some clicks here and there that are responded to immediately.

Speaking of heat soak and air ducting, I'd say the Airaid would be less affected by this since it replaces the accordion tube and anything else that can cause turbulence. The air has more surfaces to stall at and get heated. It's the same principle why a finned tube heat exchanger is more efficient than just a zig-zagged tube.
 

iamdub

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Well, what is certain Chris is that as soon as the computer detects a refueling event, it starts trying to determine a new alcohol content. If you've ever looked at your fuel trims right after leaving the gas station, you're eyeballs will go wide as they can hit -25 for a few miles while it's sampling. So this will certainly make an engine have a little more pep in its step.

Ah, the alcohol sensor is another factor I haven't considered. This makes more sense and might be the real reason for why I'm feeling such a difference.
 
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mattjones

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So I had a bit of a scare today. Recently my tahoe has been producing a squeak/squeal at low speeds. First thought was that it could be brakes but the pads looked fine when I checked. Then I thought it might have been a u-joint so I dropped the driveshaft yesterday to check but they were fine. Listened a little more closely and it sounded like the squeal was coming from the front end side so I took a closer look at the wheels/brakes and hoped it wasn't a hub.

When I checked the front driver side wheel, I noticed a clean line in the brake dust going all the way around the inside of the rim. Upon further inspection, my caliper was completely missing one bolt.

BfE5Mdn.jpg


That missing bolt allowed the caliper on this wheel to move out of place a little bit and it must have actually been rubbing against the inside of the rim as I drove

uTh7S0Q.jpg


I was able to run up to Autozone and pick up new bolts for under 15 bucks. This pic has the new bolt installed and you can see where the two corners of the caliper had been rubbing:

qvHuyhP.jpg



Based on when the squeaking started I've been driving with the caliper like this for at least a week or two trying to figure it out. I'd never seen one of these bolts just fall off before. Made sure the new one was as tight as it goes before I put the wheel back on.
 

wjburken

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So I had a bit of a scare today. Recently my tahoe has been producing a squeak/squeal at low speeds. First thought was that it could be brakes but the pads looked fine when I checked. Then I thought it might have been a u-joint so I dropped the driveshaft yesterday to check but they were fine. Listened a little more closely and it sounded like the squeal was coming from the front end side so I took a closer look at the wheels/brakes and hoped it wasn't a hub.

When I checked the front driver side wheel, I noticed a clean line in the brake dust going all the way around the inside of the rim. Upon further inspection, my caliper was completely missing one bolt.

BfE5Mdn.jpg


That missing bolt allowed the caliper on this wheel to move out of place a little bit and it must have actually been rubbing against the inside of the rim as I drove

uTh7S0Q.jpg


I was able to run up to Autozone and pick up new bolts for under 15 bucks. This pic has the new bolt installed and you can see where the two corners of the caliper had been rubbing:

qvHuyhP.jpg



Based on when the squeaking started I've been driving with the caliper like this for at least a week or two trying to figure it out. I'd never seen one of these bolts just fall off before. Made sure the new one was as tight as it goes before I put the wheel back on.
That’s crazy! Never heard of that happening.

Funny thing is a co-worker of mine replaced a wheel bearing and a caliper on his 2013 F-350 last weekend and mentioned that he was surprised to see the caliper bolts had loc-tite on them. He said, “those bolts never come loose.” I had to agree with him.

I will have to share this with him tomorrow.
 

mattjones

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That’s crazy! Never heard of that happening.

Funny thing is a co-worker of mine replaced a wheel bearing and a caliper on his 2013 F-350 last weekend and mentioned that he was surprised to see the caliper bolts had loc-tite on them. He said, “those bolts never come loose.” I had to agree with him.

I will have to share this with him tomorrow.

I actually feel lucky that it was causing the metal on metal squeal because otherwise I probably never would have noticed it
 

the_tool_man

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When I bought my Yukon a year ago, it already had a crack in the dash next to the passenger airbag. After studying up on the causes, looking at easy fixes, hard fixes, replacement, etc. I vowed to do everything I could to preserve the rest of the dash. I've done everything I could. I put a sunshade in the windshield. I regularly applied protectants (probably made from baby seals and whale blubber) to the dash. I parked in the shade whenever I could - even at night. I said a prayer every day when I got in the truck. I hung rosary beads on the rear view mirror. I've asked for divine help from rabbis, medicine men, mechanics, priests, a bishop and an old televangelist.

Today, this, just in front of the instrument cluster binnacle:

20200110_074454.jpg


All that for nothing. Thanks GM.

True story: my wife's '09 Camry got a recall notice from Toyota to bring her car in for a free dash replacement because it might become sticky. Same day replacement, no fuss, no issues. I wish GM would step up here. But that's wishful thinking. Maybe I'll sick my medicine man on them. I think he's got a spare voodoo doll somewhere.
 

avalonandl

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When I bought my Yukon a year ago, it already had a crack in the dash next to the passenger airbag. After studying up on the causes, looking at easy fixes, hard fixes, replacement, etc. I vowed to do everything I could to preserve the rest of the dash. I've done everything I could. I put a sunshade in the windshield. I regularly applied protectants (probably made from baby seals and whale blubber) to the dash. I parked in the shade whenever I could - even at night. I said a prayer every day when I got in the truck. I hung rosary beads on the rear view mirror. I've asked for divine help from rabbis, medicine men, mechanics, priests, a bishop and an old televangelist.

Today, this, just in front of the instrument cluster binnacle:

View attachment 238220

All that for nothing. Thanks GM.

True story: my wife's '09 Camry got a recall notice from Toyota to bring her car in for a free dash replacement because it might become sticky. Same day replacement, no fuss, no issues. I wish GM would step up here. But that's wishful thinking. Maybe I'll sick my medicine man on them. I think he's got a spare voodoo doll somewhere.

Install a dashskin.... problem solved.

I personally agree that it's one of GM's biggest quality failures. The number of suv's/trucks out there with cracked dash's has got to be several MILLION....

This from a GM family man......
 

the_tool_man

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Install a dashskin.... problem solved.

I personally agree that it's one of GM's biggest quality failures. The number of suv's/trucks out there with cracked dash's has got to be several MILLION....

This from a GM family man......

Got one in my Amazon wish list already. The only thing that gives me pause is that my dash has recently developed a really annoying rattle on the inside. It sounds like it's right behind the headlight switch. If I can't figure it out from below, I'll end up pulling the top panel off anyway. Might as well replace it in that case.

Question for anyone who's installed a dashskin. Does it make removal of the factory piece more difficult down the road?
 
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swathdiver

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Install a dashskin.... problem solved.

I personally agree that it's one of GM's biggest quality failures. The number of suv's/trucks out there with cracked dash's has got to be several MILLION....

This from a GM family man......

I reckon that every single one of them will begin cracking at some point. Been lucky so far but then again, I haven't looked under the dash mat in several years! My kids clean it for me.
 

avalonandl

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Got one in my Amazon wish list already. The only thing that gives me pause is that my dash has recently developed a really annoying rattle inside the dash. It sounds like it's right behind the headlight switch. If I can't figure it out from below, I'll end up pulling the top panel off anyway. Might as well replace it in that case.

Question for anyone who's installed a dashskin. Does it make removal of the factory piece more difficult down the road?

It has too since it bridges 2 pieces- the dash top and the section over the defrost vents.

But I will tell you I had a rattle but it was a small section of the dash that was cracked flapping from road vibration. Now- NO RATTLES...
 

Rocket Man

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Got one in my Amazon wish list already. The only thing that gives me pause is that my dash has recently developed a really annoying rattle inside the dash. It sounds like it's right behind the headlight switch. If I can't figure it out from below, I'll end up pulling the top panel off anyway. Might as well replace it in that case.

Question for anyone who's installed a dashskin. Does it make removal of the factory piece more difficult down the road?
You have to pull the dashskin first and it’s glued down. So yes. Plus I’m pretty sure you can’t reinstall the dashskin.
 

trailblazer

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I finally got a chance to install new driver door wire harnesses in both my ‘09 Tahoe and Silverado. Both vehicles had issues all related to that stupid harness. The Silverado had an intermittent problem with the driver side window switch, power mirrors never worked, and the dome light wouldn’t shut off (I jumpered a ground in the old harness to fix that. The Tahoe kept getting an Airbag warning light due to a driver door sensor fault every time I would open the driver door with the engine running.
Replacing the harnesses FIXED all of those issues! Took four weeks to get from GM and they both were $180 shipped with tax. Took 45min to install.

2d06e4e51a4eee2f8b1b21558f60b603.jpg

dd58947eb7a7af22bc3f4104526f150a.jpg

e7e93e6442c656963701022235738780.jpg



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Tonyrodz

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I finally got a chance to install new driver door wire harnesses in both my ‘09 Tahoe and Silverado. Both vehicles had issues all related to that stupid harness. The Silverado had an intermittent problem with the driver side window switch, power mirrors never worked, and the dome light wouldn’t shut off (I jumpered a ground in the old harness to fix that. The Tahoe kept getting an Airbag warning light due to a driver door sensor fault every time I would open the driver door with the engine running.
Replacing the harnesses FIXED all of those issues! Took four weeks to get from GM and they both were $180 shipped with tax. Took 45min to install.

2d06e4e51a4eee2f8b1b21558f60b603.jpg

dd58947eb7a7af22bc3f4104526f150a.jpg

e7e93e6442c656963701022235738780.jpg



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Nothing like genuine gm, and new too!
 

M3kanic

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I know it has been a long time since I posted in here but with finding my lifter broke and camshaft worn down I figured that I would see if anyone else has seen this.
7d30a22609d62c0349a0db18c5d22f95.jpg
7e0becb6847737f653a5231fbcb6a963.jpg


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