What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Keviebear86]

Just be careful. Not sure what state you are in, but 35% is the legal limit here in NC. I technically could be ticketed for mine.

Illinois here. I do believe I'd be overstepping the legal limit. But oh well, most officers here don't look for tint tickets.

 

[Sam Harris]

try a different vin #, what year is your truck?

2003. Do you have a vin I can use?

 

[Mezzo]

So not sure if anyone might have a picture of sorts,but im wanting to convert my heated seat controls on passenger and driver side to blue LED's,does anyone have pics of the positive and negative leads on the board,i have never had this much trouble trying to swap a component to LEDs,they same more finicky then the other leads.I've been scouring forums everywhere to get some sort of pic.

 

[Sam Harris]

So not sure if anyone might have a picture of sorts,but im wanting to convert my heated seat controls on passenger and driver side to blue LED's,does anyone have pics of the positive and negative leads on the board,i have never had this much trouble trying to swap a component to LEDs,they same more finicky then the other leads.I've been scouring forums everywhere to get some sort of pic.

I just did this on the driver door switch, but I’m actually looking for some smd LEDs, as I don’t love the light output from the standard ones shining through the little holes. Unfortunately, I didn’t keep track of which were negative leads, but I also had some difficulty. Keep in mind though, 2 of those LEDs won’t light up by just applying power (acc), because one is a window lock, and only lights when the switch is depressed, and the other is the folding mirror light, which I think only illuminates when the vehicle is started. Good luck!

and I just realized you’re talking about the seat heater, and not the windows. Lol. Well, there are several amber LEDs in that one that won’t all light up at once. I’m not planning on swapping those LEDs (presumably smds), only the ones that light the panel. Which ones are you converting?

 

[wjburken]

Nothing real exciting. Had a post-CAT o2 heater code right after finishing the new transmission. No big deal. Ordered 2 new o2's.

Removed both post-CAT o2's and tossed them aside. Removed the pre-CAT o2's and reinstalled them in the post-CAT spots, then installed the 2 new o2's in the pre-CAT spots. Cleared code and good so far.

May I ask why you didn't just replace all 4 sensors? Not judging, just curious.

 

[Mezzo]

I just did this on the driver door switch, but I’m actually looking for some smd LEDs, as I don’t love the light output from the standard ones shining through the little holes. Unfortunately, I didn’t keep track of which were negative leads, but I also had some difficulty. Keep in mind though, 2 of those LEDs won’t light up by just applying power (acc), because one is a window lock, and only lights when the switch is depressed, and the other is the folding mirror light, which I think only illuminates when the vehicle is started. Good luck!

and I just realized you’re talking about the seat heater, and not the windows. Lol. Well, there are several amber LEDs in that one that won’t all light up at once. I’m not planning on swapping those LEDs (presumably smds), only the ones that light the panel. Which ones are you converting?

Just the lights for the buttons specifically,the amber lights i want to leave be,the current issue ive had is only the pedal controls are the only ones that seem to light up.

 

[Doubeleive]

2003. Do you have a vin I can use?

on my 2003 silverado I had to use a different vin # I found that out by accident because I had a similar issue and found a note on the internet on a tech2 forum, I believe you have to use the next letter or number up on your vin but I could be wrong, you might just have to try them until you find one that works.

 

[Wylie_Tahoe]

May I ask why you didn't just replace all 4 sensors? Not judging, just curious.

Happy to answer. Since Oct, ive put about 2K in this rig with a reman trans, oil change, rear main seal and seal housing gasket. Still to go; Plugs, wires and Thermostat (+ 2 gals of fresh coolant) as well as new rear park shoes on hand to also be done in the next week.

By all accounts, the pre-CAT's are working just fine. Are they as quick and accurate as new ones? Nope, but we dont need them to be for the role of a post-CAT O2. Post-CAT o2's typically hover just above rich, as there should be little oxygen left, and have a very flat voltage fluctuation. They do not have any bearing on the fuel trip, just monitor the CAT's efficiency. Even if another heater dies, im not worried about it for now.

 

[Sam Harris]

on my 2003 silverado I had to use a different vin # I found that out by accident because I had a similar issue and found a note on the internet on a tech2 forum, I believe you have to use the next letter or number up on your vin but I could be wrong, you might just have to try them until you find one that works.

Ok thanks! I’ll play with that. LMK if you run across any other details!

 

[Fless]

and this is annoying AF.. keeps doing this, and reconnects, over and over. Reseated connections at the Tech2 and obd2 port, and power cycled the Tech 2, but it continues. Wonder if that’s pretty normal, or if I should contact the seller..?
Also, whenever I do anything with the t-case, it also errors out, saying I need to reselect the vehicle, and I chose poorly.. lol. I chose borg Warner, so tried it again, and still fails.

@Sam Harris try powering the Tech 2 with the AC adapter, or DC adapter direct to the battery. If the OBD connector is losing the power connection, or the key cycles to off, the Tech 2 will restart. I think you have the right "k" product line; that's the way mine works in the '04.

 

[ivin74]

I'm looking to remove my third row seats and make a dual drawer system in the floor of the cargo area. Mainly for my fishing tackle and other odds and ends. I want to have them about 8" in depth and the length and width of cargo area behind second row seats. Has anyone ever done something like this? If so let me see your set up.

Go back several pages and you can see the cargo organizer I built for my rig.



https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ahoe-yukon-today.12502/page-2996#post-1399770

 

[Fless]

@Sam Harris FWIW here's what the oil pressure voltage looks like on my '04 L59 (pretty similar to yours, I think) sitting in the garage, hasn't been run since Christmas Eve:

EDIT: I also recall when I got mine that the DB9(?) connector on the end of the cable that connects to the body of the Tech 2 wouldn't tighten down very good on one side. I think I switched the thumb screws and now both are tight.

 

[Sam Harris]

@Sam Harris try powering the Tech 2 with the AC adapter, or DC adapter direct to the battery. If the OBD connector is losing the power connection, or the key cycles to off, the Tech 2 will restart. I think you have the right "k" product line; that's the way mine works in the '04.

Thanks Fless, I’ll give that a shot.

 

[Sam Harris]

@Sam Harris FWIW here's what the oil pressure voltage looks like on my '04 L59 (pretty similar to yours, I think) sitting in the garage, hasn't been run since Christmas Eve:

View attachment 238096

EDIT: I also recall when I got mine that the DB9(?) connector on the end of the cable that connects to the body of the Tech 2 wouldn't tighten down very good on one side. I think I switched the thumb screws and now both are tight.

Wow, that’s a big difference..! Well, probably going to swap the sensor again (under warranty). If it fails again, I’m thinking the harness may be shot..

 

[Fless]

Wow, that’s a big difference..! Well, probably going to swap the sensor again (under warranty). If it fails again, I’m thinking the harness may be shot..

I drove mine today and will try to get some of the oil sender voltages with different pressure values. Kind of see how/where the voltages go based on the Tech 2 and gauge pressure readings.

 

[Fless]

@Sam Harris

Curiously, I didn't find the actual oil pressure reading in the Tech 2 values; I thought it would say. Here is what it read for sender voltages at various oil pressures as indicated by the dash gauge:

Gauge Oil Sensor
Pressure_ Voltage (v)

0 (engine off) 0.53
35 1.69
40 1.86
45 2.06
50 2.29
60 2.41

YMMV

Wonder if one could disconnect the oil pressure sending unit and send a small dc voltage to the gauge through the wiring harness connector? I'm not sure which pins would be the right ones to do that without looking at a wiring diagram.

 

[StillEnjoyLegos]

Went to the local junk yard and scored some Escalade vent caps in gloss black, so put those in today. Also recently had roof and hood repainted. Really happy with how it looks

 

[Tonyrodz]

Went to the local junk yard and scored some Escalade vent caps in gloss black, so put those in today. Also recently had roof and hood repainted. Really happy with how it looks


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Looks good.

 

[StillEnjoyLegos]

Looks good.

Thanks. Think I'm going to do tail lights next. Didn't even realize I didn't like the stock ones until I've seen here on the forum how much better the NBS trucks look with new lights hah. I've kept it clean and maintained for years (got 235k miles) but she deserves a bit of a refresh.

 

[Rocket Man]

Went to the local junk yard and scored some Escalade vent caps in gloss black, so put those in today. Also recently had roof and hood repainted. Really happy with how it looks


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View attachment 238128

Score, you didn’t even have to paint the Esky parts!