Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
As usual great job. Looks to be coming along.
I’m back with an Esky this time
- Thread starter Snowbound
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Thanks guys. Yeah, almost there. I have to go to work at 3am and here it is 8:30pm, I think I’m just gonna keep going until 1:30am and then go to work. A couple hours of sleep won’t do it for me.
All I have left is put the crossover pipe up, fill the trans, put in new u-joint on rear shaft and then install it (new joint came today) and put the plugs and wires on. Should be a matter of a few hours and I’ll be flashing the TCM and going through the fast learn process. I’ll take a video of that part. Not much info on YouTube about it.
I went ahead and put heat wrap on the crossover pipe. It’s close as hell to the pan and figured this will help keeping trans temp down. Still plan on finding a bigger cooler and probably put AN hoses and fittings on it if I can’t find the correct adapters.
Passenger side header going on. It’s bolted up but not tight.
Couple side notes: the heat wrap, it’s always a good thing to spray the wrap with hi-heat silicone spray. It helps protect the wrap and also keeps it from drying out so much it fades. But, I would have to wait for the wrap to completely dry (goes on wet to help stretch it tight) and then wait for the spray to dry also. No time for that, local parts store didn’t have it and speed shop is closed. So it’s going on without it and I’ll report back how it holds up.
Next thing, torque converter bolts- I’ve always put one bolt in and don’t tighten it, then spin the engine and get the second bolt lined up and go ahead and tighten that one because the third should be lined up. Nope! Had to rotate engine back and loosen second bolt, put the third in and tighten. Then spin engine around to tighten the first and second. That sucked. Made a mental note of that for the next time, hopefully is never.
Back to work, I’ll report back when this ***** is sitting on the ground!! Also got a few more goodies for the sled, I’ll fill ya in later.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All I have left is put the crossover pipe up, fill the trans, put in new u-joint on rear shaft and then install it (new joint came today) and put the plugs and wires on. Should be a matter of a few hours and I’ll be flashing the TCM and going through the fast learn process. I’ll take a video of that part. Not much info on YouTube about it.
I went ahead and put heat wrap on the crossover pipe. It’s close as hell to the pan and figured this will help keeping trans temp down. Still plan on finding a bigger cooler and probably put AN hoses and fittings on it if I can’t find the correct adapters.
Passenger side header going on. It’s bolted up but not tight.
Couple side notes: the heat wrap, it’s always a good thing to spray the wrap with hi-heat silicone spray. It helps protect the wrap and also keeps it from drying out so much it fades. But, I would have to wait for the wrap to completely dry (goes on wet to help stretch it tight) and then wait for the spray to dry also. No time for that, local parts store didn’t have it and speed shop is closed. So it’s going on without it and I’ll report back how it holds up.
Next thing, torque converter bolts- I’ve always put one bolt in and don’t tighten it, then spin the engine and get the second bolt lined up and go ahead and tighten that one because the third should be lined up. Nope! Had to rotate engine back and loosen second bolt, put the third in and tighten. Then spin engine around to tighten the first and second. That sucked. Made a mental note of that for the next time, hopefully is never.
Back to work, I’ll report back when this ***** is sitting on the ground!! Also got a few more goodies for the sled, I’ll fill ya in later.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Great progress! Keep up the good work!Thanks guys. Yeah, almost there. I have to go to work at 3am and here it is 8:30pm, I think I’m just gonna keep going until 1:30am and then go to work. A couple hours of sleep won’t do it for me.
All I have left is put the crossover pipe up, fill the trans, put in new u-joint on rear shaft and then install it (new joint came today) and put the plugs and wires on. Should be a matter of a few hours and I’ll be flashing the TCM and going through the fast learn process. I’ll take a video of that part. Not much info on YouTube about it.
I went ahead and put heat wrap on the crossover pipe. It’s close as hell to the pan and figured this will help keeping trans temp down. Still plan on finding a bigger cooler and probably put AN hoses and fittings on it if I can’t find the correct adapters.
Passenger side header going on. It’s bolted up but not tight.
Couple side notes: the heat wrap, it’s always a good thing to spray the wrap with hi-heat silicone spray. It helps protect the wrap and also keeps it from drying out so much it fades. But, I would have to wait for the wrap to completely dry (goes on wet to help stretch it tight) and then wait for the spray to dry also. No time for that, local parts store didn’t have it and speed shop is closed. So it’s going on without it and I’ll report back how it holds up.
Next thing, torque converter bolts- I’ve always put one bolt in and don’t tighten it, then spin the engine and get the second bolt lined up and go ahead and tighten that one because the third should be lined up. Nope! Had to rotate engine back and loosen second bolt, put the third in and tighten. Then spin engine around to tighten the first and second. That sucked. Made a mental note of that for the next time, hopefully is never.
Back to work, I’ll report back when this ***** is sitting on the ground!! Also got a few more goodies for the sled, I’ll fill ya in later.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Roadblock!! First, let me say, when that other u-joint broke, it was going in the front of the rear driveshaft. After it broke and I removed it, I put the last new joint I had in the front of this rear shaft because I wanted the yoke mounted to shaft so when new joint came in, I could just pop it on the rear and install the driveshaft.
Somehow the yoke on the rear of the shaft closed up slightly. Not sure how it closed. Issue I’m having is I can’t get both inner clips installed. I got one but on the other side the groove for the c-clip is barely visible. I thought maybe a needle bearing fell and was in the bottom of the cap. Removed it and it wasn’t.
So I got out my caliper and measured joint to the outside of the clip grooves. This is in its relaxed state so I should be able to close it up slightly.
The yoke on shaft
I need to open it up a little. So I used a 7/16” all thread and some washers and nuts. Putting tension on it and then I’m gonna heat it up a little and then crank some more. I hope to god that this works and doesn’t snap the ear off. That’s gonna suck!! It’s chillin under pressure now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Somehow the yoke on the rear of the shaft closed up slightly. Not sure how it closed. Issue I’m having is I can’t get both inner clips installed. I got one but on the other side the groove for the c-clip is barely visible. I thought maybe a needle bearing fell and was in the bottom of the cap. Removed it and it wasn’t.
So I got out my caliper and measured joint to the outside of the clip grooves. This is in its relaxed state so I should be able to close it up slightly.
The yoke on shaft
I need to open it up a little. So I used a 7/16” all thread and some washers and nuts. Putting tension on it and then I’m gonna heat it up a little and then crank some more. I hope to god that this works and doesn’t snap the ear off. That’s gonna suck!! It’s chillin under pressure now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Holy crap!! What a PITARoadblock!! First, let me say, when that other u-joint broke, it was going in the front of the rear driveshaft. After it broke and I removed it, I put the last new joint I had in the front of this rear shaft because I wanted the yoke mounted to shaft so when new joint came in, I could just pop it on the rear and install the driveshaft.
Somehow the yoke on the rear of the shaft closed up slightly. Not sure how it closed. Issue I’m having is I can’t get both inner clips installed. I got one but on the other side the groove for the c-clip is barely visible. I thought maybe a needle bearing fell and was in the bottom of the cap. Removed it and it wasn’t.
So I got out my caliper and measured joint to the outside of the clip grooves. This is in its relaxed state so I should be able to close it up slightly.
The yoke on shaft
I need to open it up a little. So I used a 7/16” all thread and some washers and nuts. Putting tension on it and then I’m gonna heat it up a little and then crank some more. I hope to god that this works and doesn’t snap the ear off. That’s gonna suck!! It’s chillin under pressure now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Amazing amount of progress. Be safe.Thanks guys. Yeah, almost there. I have to go to work at 3am and here it is 8:30pm, I think I’m just gonna keep going until 1:30am and then go to work. A couple hours of sleep won’t do it for me.
All I have left is put the crossover pipe up, fill the trans, put in new u-joint on rear shaft and then install it (new joint came today) and put the plugs and wires on. Should be a matter of a few hours and I’ll be flashing the TCM and going through the fast learn process. I’ll take a video of that part. Not much info on YouTube about it.
I went ahead and put heat wrap on the crossover pipe. It’s close as hell to the pan and figured this will help keeping trans temp down. Still plan on finding a bigger cooler and probably put AN hoses and fittings on it if I can’t find the correct adapters.
Passenger side header going on. It’s bolted up but not tight.
Couple side notes: the heat wrap, it’s always a good thing to spray the wrap with hi-heat silicone spray. It helps protect the wrap and also keeps it from drying out so much it fades. But, I would have to wait for the wrap to completely dry (goes on wet to help stretch it tight) and then wait for the spray to dry also. No time for that, local parts store didn’t have it and speed shop is closed. So it’s going on without it and I’ll report back how it holds up.
Next thing, torque converter bolts- I’ve always put one bolt in and don’t tighten it, then spin the engine and get the second bolt lined up and go ahead and tighten that one because the third should be lined up. Nope! Had to rotate engine back and loosen second bolt, put the third in and tighten. Then spin engine around to tighten the first and second. That sucked. Made a mental note of that for the next time, hopefully is never.
Back to work, I’ll report back when this ***** is sitting on the ground!! Also got a few more goodies for the sled, I’ll fill ya in later.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Amazing how sometimes things that should be straight forward just go south. I would think your spreading with a little heat is about the best thing to try at this time.Roadblock!! First, let me say, when that other u-joint broke, it was going in the front of the rear driveshaft. After it broke and I removed it, I put the last new joint I had in the front of this rear shaft because I wanted the yoke mounted to shaft so when new joint came in, I could just pop it on the rear and install the driveshaft.
Somehow the yoke on the rear of the shaft closed up slightly. Not sure how it closed. Issue I’m having is I can’t get both inner clips installed. I got one but on the other side the groove for the c-clip is barely visible. I thought maybe a needle bearing fell and was in the bottom of the cap. Removed it and it wasn’t.
So I got out my caliper and measured joint to the outside of the clip grooves. This is in its relaxed state so I should be able to close it up slightly.
The yoke on shaft
I need to open it up a little. So I used a 7/16” all thread and some washers and nuts. Putting tension on it and then I’m gonna heat it up a little and then crank some more. I hope to god that this works and doesn’t snap the ear off. That’s gonna suck!! It’s chillin under pressure now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
After putting some heat to it and expanding the nuts a little at a time. 2.549”
With clips on and pushed all the way to the inside.
Time to step up my game. It’s either gonna break or it’s gonna work.
Putting more heat to it. It’s getting scary!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With clips on and pushed all the way to the inside.
Time to step up my game. It’s either gonna break or it’s gonna work.
Putting more heat to it. It’s getting scary!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Little at a time.
Persistence over resistance, wins every time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Persistence over resistance, wins every time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
If that was me I would have broken it! I have that kind of luck 
. Good job Jim.
. Good job Jim.
Unreal you had to do that! Great job!!Little at a time.
Persistence over resistance, wins every time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
After all that, I’m not sure I like it. Yes, the joint is in but it’s a little tighter than I’d like. Also one cap went in a little too easy for my liking. If it were me driving this rig every day, I’d probably run it and keep an eye and ear on it. But being that my wife is driving it with my daughter in the car, I think I’m gonna have to go a step further. I’m gonna run this shaft over to my local driveline shop and have the yoke cut off, replaced and balanced. Peace of mind ya know? I’m sure they won’t have this done until the weekend but I think with the front shaft in and this being AWD, I can still do my programming and learn process. This is gonna screw me up for going up north snowmobiling this weekend but I can’t in good conscience turn a blind eye to it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Absolutely agree. Having your family in the vehicle makes all the difference.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Shaft dropped off and they said Friday hopefully.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Taking today to do a little tuning. I’m cleaning up the torque management and tweaking some shift points and flaring.
While I’m going thru the tables and tweaking things before the rewrite, I started watching “Don’t F**k with Cats” on Netflix. Holy shit! This is totally different than what i thought it was gonna be. Check it out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
While I’m going thru the tables and tweaking things before the rewrite, I started watching “Don’t F**k with Cats” on Netflix. Holy shit! This is totally different than what i thought it was gonna be. Check it out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wow.. that’s some creepy shit!Taking today to do a little tuning. I’m cleaning up the torque management and tweaking some shift points and flaring.
While I’m going thru the tables and tweaking things before the rewrite, I started watching “Don’t F**k with Cats” on Netflix. Holy shit! This is totally different than what i thought it was gonna be. Check it out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
I was able to rewrite just the TCM and skip the ECM.
It took without issue. Now I just need to do the relearn procedure and take it for a test drive. I need my rear driveshaft! Maybe I can do the relearn without it? My thinking is because it’s AWD I can put in gear while holding the brake as long as the front shaft is in? Or should I just wait until I have the shaft in so I can test drive right after relearn while trans is still warm? I’ve never had this transfer case apart, if it’s just chain driven and there’s no viscous coupling to allow slippage between front and rear shaft it should work. But if there is some sort of coupling like a clutch pack or fluid coupling, the rear output will slip and throw the whole process off. Perhaps I’m better off waiting, I’ve come this far already, what’s another 2 days.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It took without issue. Now I just need to do the relearn procedure and take it for a test drive. I need my rear driveshaft! Maybe I can do the relearn without it? My thinking is because it’s AWD I can put in gear while holding the brake as long as the front shaft is in? Or should I just wait until I have the shaft in so I can test drive right after relearn while trans is still warm? I’ve never had this transfer case apart, if it’s just chain driven and there’s no viscous coupling to allow slippage between front and rear shaft it should work. But if there is some sort of coupling like a clutch pack or fluid coupling, the rear output will slip and throw the whole process off. Perhaps I’m better off waiting, I’ve come this far already, what’s another 2 days.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hell yes man! Back in action in no time!
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I was able to rewrite just the TCM and skip the ECM.
It took without issue. Now I just need to do the relearn procedure and take it for a test drive. I need my rear driveshaft! Maybe I can do the relearn without it? My thinking is because it’s AWD I can put in gear while holding the brake as long as the front shaft is in? Or should I just wait until I have the shaft in so I can test drive right after relearn while trans is still warm? I’ve never had this transfer case apart, if it’s just chain driven and there’s no viscous coupling to allow slippage between front and rear shaft it should work. But if there is some sort of coupling like a clutch pack or fluid coupling, the rear output will slip and throw the whole process off. Perhaps I’m better off waiting, I’ve come this far already, what’s another 2 days.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
99% positive the TC uses a viscous coupling. That's why guys fuss about going off road and getting stuck in the mud with their Denalis.
