What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[rgosart]

I totally agree. The angle of the arms and the amount of uptravel and down travel when you cycle the suspension plays a part as well.

When you take the suspension out of the sweet spot you actually lose overall travel. Less suspension travel is bad for ride quality. This happens because there is a hard limit on how high or low of an angle the arms/balljoints/ axles can achieve.

Caster also changes which affects ride quality. Another advantage of adjustable UCAs.

Before somebody corrects me. Wrong word. Caster does not affect ride quality directly, more related to steering.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

I guess the change in stiffness comes from the load range E tires with stiffer sidewall. I bought small bumpers to add to compensate for the extra distance between the control arm and the jounce stop. I guess it is time to put them on.

Tires can make a huge difference. Yeah get those bumpers in there!

So many people complain of poor ride on these vehicles and change out everything completely ignoring their trashed jounce stops... which are like $20 and take zero time to replace.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Caster also changes which affects ride quality. Another advantage of adjustable UCAs.

Before somebody corrects me. Wrong word. Caster does not affect ride quality directly, more related to steering.

You could argue that a vehicles on center feel (self centering) is a ride "quality" characteristic. Mine is a little vague. I would love more caster on this truck personally. It handles great for how big and heavy it is, it is very responsive, it simply is not confidence inspiring when driving straight. It's too twitchy, requires some effort to keep in the center of the lane on the highway. Could be a few different things such as a steering position sensor. This likely is not something that passengers are aware of, but maybe they are aware of the constant small inputs that seem to be required to keep this thing in the middle of the road.

 

[Fosscore]

Current situation:

i bought the replacement pump, since that seems to be the weak link. But as soon as I opened it up, I see the lines are trash. Now I don’t know what goes where. Lol. Any tips appreciated. I guess I’ve got a 50/50 shot.

Ok. Got the right lines attached. Yay. On a pissed the **** off note, the pump I ordered from a GM dealer was the wrong damn one. So didn’t end up replacing it after all. Sonsofbitches!

i also managed to break the plastic clip that holds the washer fluid level sensor on, so for now a hack job o-ring was the best I could do. It’s pretty tight in there anyway, but don’t feel like going to get a replacement, and wiring in a new one today. It should hold for a while at least.

replaced the rubber connecting tubes as well and clamped them just because.

annd.. since watching @Fosscore, I had to touch up the terrible looking battery tray with some fresh black gloss. Lol. It still looks like crap, but significantly better than it was. [emoji23]

Thatta boy...the little details....

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Needs cleaner letters....errr engine bay...sheesh!

Lol. The camera definitely highlights it.... but they're actually pretty clean (I'd say 85th percentile, easy) in person. I am forming my spring plan of attack already. I got the tires and key crank accomplished before winter, but it's bearing down on us, now.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Thanks guys. I’m not sure if I’m going to use the keys or not. Got some experimenting to do..

That's what I did, too. Kind of like @rgosart described. He's the one who tipped the scale for my tire purchase, too. I went 275/70r18 (33.2 x 10.8). I have z71, so I didn't mess with rear springs or spacers. I was surprised that the fronts fit with no rubbing at stock height (closely). I wanted to get more level, so I started with 1.5 turns, which conventional wisdom says is 3/8". The next day, I put another 1.5 on, so now 3/4". About a week later, I put another full turn for another 1/4".

My numbers show that 1 turn = 1/4" is pretty accurate. I am now sitting at 38.5 rear, 37.5 front. I like the little rake, and while there is a little bit of bolt left, I'm happy for now and will align it now for the winter. Maybe minimum (1- 1.25) spacers in the spring for stance, and since more little key turns to go with.

Ride- wise, I honestly can't tell the difference. Drives great. I have nailed a couple speed bumps and Chicago potholes for research purposes and it's like nothing changed. I'm a little surprised, because I am off the jounce stops by just a hair now. If I get in there with shocks next year, I will add a pancake to the control arm to get them back touching.

 

[Sam Harris]

That's what I did, too. Kind of like @rgosart described. He's the one who tipped the scale for my tire purchase, too. I went 275/70r18 (33.2 x 10.8). I have z71, so I didn't mess with rear springs or spacers. I was surprised that the fronts fit with no rubbing at stock height (closely). I wanted to get more level, so I started with 1.5 turns, which conventional wisdom says is 3/8". The next day, I put another 1.5 on, so now 3/4". About a week later, I put another full turn for another 1/4".

My numbers show that 1 turn = 1/4" is pretty accurate. I am now sitting at 38.5 rear, 37.5 front. I like the little rake, and while there is a little bit of bolt left, I'm happy for now and will align it now for the winter. Maybe minimum (1- 1.25) spacers in the spring for stance, and since more little key turns to go with.

Ride- wise, I honestly can't tell the difference. Drives great. I have nailed a couple speed bumps and Chicago potholes for research purposes and it's like nothing changed. I'm a little surprised, because I am off the jounce stops by just a hair now. If I get in there with shocks next year, I will add a pancake to the control arm to get them back touching.

Thanks for the details. I’m hoping it doesn’t ride like shit. Hell, after reading about how terrible the ride is after cranking the keys, I’m considering dropping the rear to level, rather that bumping the front up.. [emoji2957]

 

[wjburken]

Thanks for the details. I’m hoping it doesn’t ride like shit. Hell, after reading about how terrible the ride is after cranking the keys, I’m considering dropping the rear to level, rather that bumping the front up.. [emoji2957]

Sam, from what I can tell in reading the various posts here, a lot of guys are running with cranked keys and are happy with the ride they have. I don’t have any experience myself, but if I had a truck with torsion bars again, I would not be afraid of doing it myself.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Thanks for the details. I’m hoping it doesn’t ride like shit. Hell, after reading about how terrible the ride is after cranking the keys, I’m considering dropping the rear to level, rather that bumping the front up.. [emoji2957]

You can go up a bit without a noticeable reduction in ride quality. Just dont expect to tuck 35s with keys and no trimming.

 

[Sam Harris]

You can go up a bit without a noticeable reduction in ride quality. Just dont expect to tuck 35s with keys and no trimming.

Yeah definitely not trying to do that. Lol. I’m hoping to bump up just a little to a 275 /70 18, but mostly just wanted it level.

 

[Fosscore]

Lol. The camera definitely highlights it.... but they're actually pretty clean (I'd say 85th percentile, easy) in person. I am forming my spring plan of attack already. I got the tires and key crank accomplished before winter, but it's bearing down on us, now.

Yeah buddy. I’ll keep my less summer over a Chicago winter any day.

You know how it is. This thread is a microscope on high power. Show off the good and the huddled masses pick out the defect. Lol. No quarter. No mercy!

 

[rgosart]

Thanks for the details. I’m hoping it doesn’t ride like shit. Hell, after reading about how terrible the ride is after cranking the keys, I’m considering dropping the rear to level, rather that bumping the front up..

It wont ride like shit. @HiHoeSilver and I promise. Notice the people who had the most issues are the ones that went WAY TOO FAR.

My brother in law cranked his keys all the way to max to fit some 35's I believe. Hates the way it rides now.

I've owned a bunch of off road rigs and it's always true... You get what you pay for. A true lift kit is where it's at that way you don't compromise the handling.

i did keys on my 03 2500 hd pick up. wish i never did. made the ride stiffer then a old ford 350 with a solid axle.

the lower arms were pushed all the way down and had no real movement/travel to them at all. only time it rode nice was when i had the plow on the front, with the extra weight the front end would actually move and feel like normal.

if you hit a large pot hole the truck would just fall in the hole. oh, and it broke front shocks like crazy.

This is not what happens with an inch or two to level the truck for 33s. Like I said, it's free to try it. I'm not a fan of lowered 4x4 trucks. Just my preference...

 

[BoxChevy216]

Few days ago. Put the 20s off my 08 Yukon on

 

[BoxChevy216]

20s

 

[Scottydoggs]

,,,

 

[Scottydoggs]

It wont ride like shit. @HiHoeSilver and I promise. Notice the people who had the most issues are the ones that went WAY TOO FAR.





This is not what happens with an inch or two to level the truck for 33s. Like I said, it's free to try it. I'm not a fan of lowered 4x4 trucks. Just my preference...

i had my keys cranked up already. and my 03 gmc hd pick up was already higher then most stock trucks when i got it new. 33's would not clear. had to do a small lift. them keys sucked.

keys up front, 2 inch blocks out back. looked fantastic, rode like a brick.

 

[rgosart]

i had my keys cranked up already. and my 03 gmc hd pick up was already higher then most stock trucks when i got it new. 33's would not clear. had to do a small lift. them keys sucked.

keys up front, 2 inch blocks out back. looked fantastic, rode like a brick.

View attachment 236535

Yeah that is exactly what I was talking about in one of my posts about leveling it to match the rear with blocks. That's too much for keys. Maybe it was the offset of your wheels or the width of your tires, but both @HiHoeSilver and I cleared 275/70r18s (33.2") before any cranking (granted it was close) and just used keys to level after that. The wheels that both of us used are newer factory take offs with positive (+34 I think) offset. This makes it easier to clear larger tires. My UCAs are not on the stops, so my Tahoe does not ride like a brick and fall into holes like you're describing. I still have down travel. Breaking front shocks regularly is not a good sign and I certainly don't expect to see that with mine.

 

[alaska_guy]

Took my factory bose radio out and replaced all the buttons that were worn with new ac delco buttons. Radio looks new again! Good $20 spent.

Bummer, got it all in and one of the lights doesn't work for back lighting buttons 1/2 3/4.

Guess I will have to remove it again when its warmer and look into LED's.

 

[Scottydoggs]

Yeah that is exactly what I was talking about in one of my posts about leveling it to match the rear with blocks. That's too much for keys. Maybe it was the offset of your wheels or the width of your tires, but both @HiHoeSilver and I cleared 275/70r18s (33.2") before any cranking (granted it was close) and just used keys to level after that. The wheels that both of us used are newer factory take offs with positive (+34 I think) offset. This makes it easier to clear larger tires. My UCAs are not on the stops, so my Tahoe does not ride like a brick and fall into holes like you're describing. I still have down travel. Breaking front shocks regularly is not a good sign and I certainly don't expect to see that with mine.

driver side front tire rubbed inside the back side of the wheel well liner and hit the plastic under the bumper. both sides needed to be trimmed under the bumper.

my lack of ride quality could be due to the truck was a 2500 hd. its t bars are easily twice as thick as the tahoes. its just a 1500 set up. much softer ride.

the adjuster bolts to the keys were like just threaded in and pushing on them lightly. hardly cranked on. even after the keys i had to trim the plastic on the driver side where the ebrake cable runs out the cab, only rubbed when turned all the way and backing up. and those are 33x12.5 wide on a 16.5 wheel. they stuck out past the fender flare by a inch or so. still dont change the fact it rode like crap.

i used to get 50k out of a set of BFG's. rotated every 6k and ran em at 50 psi. only way they last past 30k. i also had many alignments and new parts installed over the years. and never spin and smoke this brand tire if stuck. they melt like butter. pretty soft tire compound.

i also put 3,000 miles a month on this truck, and the one before it. my poor 97 gmc 3500 had 175k on it in 5 years. oil change every month tires rotated every other oil change. lots of fun on a 8 lug set up with just a cross bar lug wrench....at least i could just slide under it to do oil changes lol ill also note, these tires and wheels were on the 97 first, sold that truck and kept the wheels and tires, they didnt rub on shit on the 97 bone stock. go figure right?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Yeah that is exactly what I was talking about in one of my posts about leveling it to match the rear with blocks. That's too much for keys. Maybe it was the offset of your wheels or the width of your tires, but both @HiHoeSilver and I cleared 275/70r18s (33.2") before any cranking (granted it was close) and just used keys to level after that. The wheels that both of us used are newer factory take offs with positive (+34 I think) offset. This makes it easier to clear larger tires. My UCAs are not on the stops, so my Tahoe does not ride like a brick and fall into holes like you're describing. I still have down travel. Breaking front shocks regularly is not a good sign and I certainly don't expect to see that with mine.

The wheels I believe are 31 offset. Also, just to clarify, I used the stock keys.