What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Sam Harris]

I've never done any more than putting a coat of wax on it and that didn't happen nearly as often as it should have. I finished the hood last night and I'm hoping to get the roof done tonight. Hopefully the rest can be compounded out because I do not want to wet sand the whole thing.

Heck yes. I need to do this badly..

 

[Keviebear86]

I'm looking to do some repairs to my truck in the winter so I can beat the heat for next year. I want to replace the AC/Heater lines from front to back of the truck so my rear AC works (I'm not satisfied with just front AC). There are 2 options for the lines that run front to rear. Options are either a 17mm orifice tube or 13mm orifice tube. I'm trying to get information on where that measurement is taken to get the correct part (dealer doesn't allow special order parts to be returned). Thanks in advance guys. And yes I do want to go back with OEM parts rather than the flexible aftermarket kits available.

 

[915_Tahoe]

I'm looking to do some repairs to my truck in the winter so I can beat the heat for next year. I want to replace the AC/Heater lines from front to back of the truck so my rear AC works (I'm not satisfied with just front AC). There are 2 options for the lines that run front to rear. Options are either a 17mm orifice tube or 13mm orifice tube. I'm trying to get information on where that measurement is taken to get the correct part (dealer doesn't allow special order parts to be returned). Thanks in advance guys. And yes I do want to go back with OEM parts rather than the flexible aftermarket kits available.

whats the last 8 of your vin#, i can help out as much as i can

 

[AlejandroDinero]

Looks like i got bit by the bug...

 

[rgosart]

A little before and after. Tonights project was the roof and it is about 70% done. The roof was much worse than the hood. Looking like I might be able to get away with wet sanding the tops of the doors and just compounding everything below the window.

 

[Sam Harris]

View attachment 236374 View attachment 236375

A little before and after. Tonights project was the roof and it is about 70% done. The roof was much worse than the hood. Looking like I might be able to get away with wet sanding the tops of the doors and just compounding everything below the window.

Nice. Much better! Come do mine!!

 

[mountie]

View attachment 236374 View attachment 236375

A little before and after. Tonights project was the roof and it is about 70% done. The roof was much worse than the hood. Looking like I might be able to get away with wet sanding the tops of the doors and just compounding everything below the window.

May I suggest after the polish compound, .. Then a wash with Maguire's "Wash Plus" ( you wash the surface to remove all waxes - using a technique like polishing)...... Then a pure Carnuba paste wax or a Bee's Wax paste.
Then your paint is well protected. ( Then you can put anything on the paint after that)

 

[rgosart]

Nice. Much better! Come do mine!!

It is a lot more work than I expected. I probably have 6 hours in the hood and roof, but I'm being overly cautious to remove as little as possible so sometimes it takes multiple passes. If I didn't know the history of my Tahoe (and even knowing that I'm taking a risk) I would get a paint thickness gauge. It isn't perfect. There are still small spots next to the ribs in the roof and under the roof rack rails that I didn't get out. Just going for 80-90% and I'll be happy.

May I suggest after the polish compound, .. Then a wash with Maguire's "Wash Plus" ( you wash the surface to remove all waxes - using a technique like polishing)...... Then a pure Carnuba paste wax or a Bee's Wax paste.
Then your paint is well protected. ( Then you can put anything on the paint after that)

After compounding I'm wiping it down with isopropyl alcohol and water to remove the oils in the compound, then using Meguiars Synthetic Sealant but I am considering ceramic coating it. This is a lot of work and I do not want to do it again any time soon.

For the most part I have moved away from natural waxes to synthetics. They seem to offer better/longer protection and they are very easy to apply and wipe off. If it was a show vehicle that never saw rain or anything I might use a carnuba wax, but my Tahoe is driven a fair amount.

 

[Keviebear86]

whats the last 8 of your vin#, i can help out as much as i can

6J157045

 

[eand28]

I had non canbus bulbs in my 00 burb interior and never had an issue

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Looks like i got bit by the bug...

View attachment 236368

Forgive me for my ignorance but I cannot for the life of me figure why someone spends good money on aftermarket keys and tools. If you only want a mild lift like a level you can accomplish that with stock keys generally. If you want more than 1.5" your ride suffers (no droop). Similar work and cost can get you lift spindles which can offer a much better ride. Why not spindles?

 

[iamdub]

Forgive me for my ignorance but I cannot for the life of me figure why someone spends good money on aftermarket keys and tools. If you only want a mild lift like a level you can accomplish that with stock keys generally. If you want more than 1.5" your ride suffers (no droop). Similar work and cost can get you lift spindles which can offer a much better ride. Why not spindles?

It's not ignorance. You're correct about the keys and lifting results and the tool could be borrowed for free from O'Reilly or Autozone. Such a lift should cost nothing but time with a jack and an 18mm (or is it 19mm?) wrench or socket.

 

[Rocket Man]

Forgive me for my ignorance but I cannot for the life of me figure why someone spends good money on aftermarket keys and tools. If you only want a mild lift like a level you can accomplish that with stock keys generally. If you want more than 1.5" your ride suffers (no droop). Similar work and cost can get you lift spindles which can offer a much better ride. Why not spindles?

Maybe he doesn’t know any better? Also, keys are a cheap alternative to spindles which also results in the ride quality you pay for. There’s plenty of companies out there taking advantage of customers who don’t realize that their ride will be shit even though these cheap alternatives are advertised to raise or lower the front by 3” for $50.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Maybe he doesn’t know any better? Also, keys are a cheap alternative to spindles which also results in the ride quality you pay for. There’s plenty of companies out there taking advantage of customers who don’t realize that their ride will be shit even though these cheap alternatives are advertised to raise or lower the front by 3” for $50.

Ah, so I am not crazy. Lift keys and lowering keys same thing right? Shit ride. I've done like 1" in either direction on stock keys on different trucks and thats not so bad, but if you want more... aftermarket keys are fine if you dont mind shit angles and shit ride I guess.

 

[Rocket Man]

Ah, so I am not crazy. Lift keys and lowering keys same thing right? Shit ride. I've done like 1" in either direction on stock keys on different trucks and thats not so bad, but if you want more... aftermarket keys are fine if you dont mind shit angles and shit ride I guess.

That’s true. These companies don’t mention the fact your truck will ride like shit or they wouldn’t have much success selling the keys.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

That’s true. These companies don’t mention the fact your truck will ride like shit or they wouldn’t have much success selling the keys.

I feel like there should be a sticky with this type of advice. And more members should be vocal about this.

 

[Rocket Man]

I feel like there should be a sticky with this type of advice. And more members should be vocal about this.

I think it just goes back to one of the rules of life- you get what you pay for, at least for the most part. There’s the right way to do stuff which usually requires either more money or time or both, or the easy way which is cheaper and faster. The easy way might get a similar result but it either doesn’t last long or the quality suffers, or usually both.

 

[Sam Harris]

Ok so for the front keys.. I bought some aftermarket keys, thinking that they would offer a higher starting point before having to crank up the torsion bars. Is that incorrect? I’m not looking for anything but maybe 2”, to level with the rear. I also will be installing Bilstein 5100’s as I think my front shocks could use a refresh. Are you saying it’s pointless to install the aftermarket keys, and it will ride like shit either way..? Is the only point of the aftermarket keys, to allow more lift from cranking the torsion bars ?

And obviously I’m ignorant, please indulge me.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Ok so for the front keys.. I bought some aftermarket keys, thinking that they would offer a higher starting point before having to crank up the torsion bars. Is that incorrect? I’m not looking for anything but maybe 2”, to level with the rear. I also will be installing Bilstein 5100’s as I think my front shocks could use a refresh. Are you saying it’s pointless to install the aftermarket keys, and it will ride like shit either way..? Is the only point of the aftermarket keys, to allow more lift from cranking the torsion bars?

And obviously I’m ignorant, please indulge me.

Keys dont correct geometry. They just allow you to go further out of spec than possible with stock keys. The further out of spec you go up with keys the less downward travel (droop) your suspension has and you eventually run out of alignment. If you have worn AF tbars i could maybe see some value there but you are really better served replacing the tbars at that point. If you want to go further than stock keys just get lift spindles imho.

If you just want a level your stock keys will likely get you there or damn close.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

5100s are nice shocks btw. Good choice.