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actually I think these end links are too short, i'm thinking a slightly longer one would work better, talked to the shop here and he said the articulated links snap off, im going to play with it a little with the inserts that came with the new end links i bought for the bushingswould a shorter end link help?
my limited understanding is that you want the bar parallel to ground, yours looks to be pointing up too much still.
im working w/ hotchkis to find a smaller end link for my setup

went by the Truck shop today the guy said the rear bags should have came with a remote control so I have to work on getting one, the frame is notched on the back and that appears to all be fine, for the front he recommended going with the stock control arms and strut (because they need parts off of it) then use a 2" drop spindle and adjustable struts, the spindles and struts would run me about $750.00 then I would need to acquire some oem control arms poking around online I can get all 4 for about $400 (used), just need to price out some oem struts, he said it would be $400-500 labor, the control arms that are on the truck now are tubular and he said it's probably not aligned right and will put excessive wear on the ball joints. so overall not to bad of a synopsis to get it done better hopefully.
Moog 700528 are 3.25" with 2 bushings and the center sleeve... so 3.25" from sway bar to lower control arm.
This is what I used on my 4/6 dropped Burb to get the sway bar parallel with the ground.
needs moar zip tie action, pleaseDistantXtremes HID upgrade kit installed, the truck came with factory D5S HID but the bulbs are only 25w, this kit is 45W so should be a nice improvement, pretty much plug-n-play just had to make a hole in the dust cover to insert the bulb harness, looked to be about the size of a quarter so I used a box cutter and it turned out perfect. everything fits under the radiator shroud. once it gets dark I will adjust the lights and try to get some output shots
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lol, I didn't want to drill holes and this is a new brand HID kit I am trying out and i'm probably going to upgrade the ballast to 55wneeds moar zip tie action, please![]()
the problem I have is the holes on the sway bar and the holes on the control arm do not line up so the end link sits at an angle and the bushings get pinched so much there almost useless, the end links that are on the truck are probably the same length a little over 3", I cut some sleeves about 1/2" longer and made the bushings just snug so it works for now, the guy at the shop said using the factory control arms and a 2" drop spindle and adjustable struts would make it line up better? the control arms on it now are tubular and unknown maker, do you think I could just drill new holes in the control arm so the end links work correctly?Moog 700528 are 3.25" with 2 bushings and the center sleeve... so 3.25" from sway bar to lower control arm.
This is what I used on my 4/6 dropped Burb to get the sway bar parallel with the ground.
I know but i'm torn on that, keeping it lowered for now will cost me less, I don't mind it being lowered but I want it to handle goodI concur with Jay on the bar needing to be parallel and it looks like yours is angle die to the drop. I'd get shorter links (or cut the sleeves with shorter bolts- same thing).
You wanna keep it lowered? If you're gonna buy new suspension parts, now's your chance to lift it like a Z71 should be![]()
the problem I have is the holes on the sway bar and the holes on the control arm do not line up so the end link sits at an angle and the bushings get pinched so much there almost useless, the end links that are on the truck are probably the same length a little over 3", I cut some sleeves about 1/2" longer and made the bushings just snug so it works for now, the guy at the shop said using the factory control arms and a 2" drop spindle and adjustable struts would make it line up better? the control arms on it now are tubular and unknown maker, do you think I could just drill new holes in the control arm so the end links work correctly?
I will have to jack it up and take a look again, my main concern is getting both sides drilled in the exact same spot so it will be even and not do something weird like pull to one side or sit uneven.If there is enough room and material to move the hole I don't see what it would hurt.
Sounds logicallol, I didn't want to drill holes and this is a new brand I am trying out and i'm probably going to upgrade the ballast to 55w