What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[kbuskill]

yes, and normally it should be around 180deg (I think)

I wonder if HPTuners can read it too then... hmmmmmmm

I know the dash will display trans oil temp. I really wish oil temp was an option. :/

If I remember right, the oil temperature is calculated and not actual. On a hot day mine has been over 200 degrees and it has the factory cooler too!

I do not have the factory oil cooler in the radiator but I do have a 13 row aftermarket oil cooler that is approximately 8" x 10" x 1.5" along with the dual remote mount oil filter setup, so my oil system holds approximately 9qts total... and my oil temperature runs anywhere from 200° - 215° ... this is read via the OBD2 port using the Torque Pro app.

This is what my oil cooler looks like...

This is in FL in summer though.

Just FYI.

 

[Rocket Man]

If I remember right, the oil temperature is calculated and not actual. On a hot day mine has been over 200 degrees and it has the factory cooler too!

I don’t see an oil temp sender in any parts list so that must be true.

 

[gooffeyguy]

My oil temp gets up to about the same as engine coolant temp sometimes (200*) and I view it on my phone with the Torque Pro app

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[kbuskill]

My oil temp gets up to about the same as engine coolant temp sometimes (200*) and I view it on my phone with the Torque Pro app

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

My coolant temperature usually stays around 192°- 195°... per the Torque Pro app... but the gauge on the dash reads right in the middle at 210°.

 

[gooffeyguy]

My coolant temperature usually stays around 192°- 195°... per the Torque Pro app.

Yeah, I said "about" lol
My engine temp is usually just under 200, like 195 or so, maybe 192, I really don't remember exactly.... Lol

I think the stock tstat is 195?

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

Really odd that awd systems may not like all terrain tires.ine came with all terrain tires and the transfer case seems fine. Oh well.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

 

[Doubeleive]

I wonder if HPTuners can read it too then... hmmmmmmm

I know the dash will display trans oil temp. I really wish oil temp was an option. :/

I can check again to see what temp mine runs I could have swore it was the 180's but that could have been during wintertime, I monitored it once and figured it was good

 

[Rocket Man]

My coolant temperature usually stays around 192°- 195°... per the Torque Pro app... but the gauge on the dash reads right in the middle at 210°.

The stock thermostat is 187. Has been forever, but for some reason our gauges point straight up at 210. I think GM did that on purpose just so it looked “right”. I’m pretty sure they’re not running 210.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The stock thermostat is 187. Has been forever, but for some reason our gauges point straight up at 210. I think GM did that on purpose just so it looked “right”. I’m pretty sure they’re not running 210.

My Scanguage on the 2001 would normally show a coolant temp of 198 and the temp guage would be straight up, just shy of the 210 mark.

Sometimes when really hot out and idling in traffic, the Scanguage temp would get up to 201 and sometimes up to 204, but the dash guage was still reading the same



2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[swathdiver]

Really odd that awd systems may not like all terrain tires.ine came with all terrain tires and the transfer case seems fine. Oh well.

I read that somewhere but while searching for cars lately have seen more than a few AWD Denalis with AT tires on them. I reckon as long as they are the same tread depth it should be fine; causing no more wear to the drivetrain than if it was 2WD or in 4WD.

The stock thermostat is 187. Has been forever, but for some reason our gauges point straight up at 210. I think GM did that on purpose just so it looked “right”. I’m pretty sure they’re not running 210.

The dash gauge is purposely dumb so as not to raise alarms with little fluctuations. I see the same temps with mine, she runs between 192-197 most days.

The thermostat is called a 187 as that is when it begins to open and is fully open by 195. In the old days we ditched those 180 thermostats for 160s and saw better performance. There is all kinds of debate as to why it should not be done today and based on my own experience am not buying it. Heat does make horsepower but my main reason for leaving the thermostat is to keep that steady temperature which in my mind keeps the aluminum block and heads happy and together (thermal expansion) along with that plastic intake. Having said that, I do believe that the cooling system has the capacity to handle a slightly cooler thermostat, a 174 and I may do that one day. Too much heat is an engine's enemy as well.

A fella with one of these modern trucks has used a cooler thermostat and improved his fuel economy, just like in the old days and counter to current thinking. I think the "current thinking" is more focused on emissions than performance, horsepower, gas mileage or otherwise.

 

[R3cord303]

If I remember right, the oil temperature is calculated and not actual. On a hot day mine has been over 200 degrees and it has the factory cooler too!

Might as well calculate oil pressure while we're at it. If it uses oil pressure in that calculation, I'm screwed because of the high pressure pump.

 

[CHOO CHOO]

So changing the oil today for the first time with the fumoto plug, damn it takes forever. Still draining after 10 minutes. Oh well, gonna grab some coolant and a bottle of brake fluid to top them off as they are a little low. Not at the minimum yet though. Power steering was full.

So question, and I know the answer I'll get, but I'll ask anyways.

Say we change our oil at 3-5k, but you buy a filter that supposed to last 15k. Those high mileage ones. Has anyone ever just drained the oil and put new in, while leaving the old filter there? I know, for good measure and $10, change the damn filter, but if it's still got mileage to go on it, wouldn't it still be effective?

I have a filter that I'm gonna change it out with, but just wondering why we constantly change the filter if it has more life left in it

 

[R3cord303]

So changing the oil today for the first time with the fumoto plug, damn it takes forever. Still draining after 10 minutes. Oh well, gonna grab some coolant and a bottle of brake fluid to top them off as they are a little low. Not at the minimum yet though. Power steering was full.

So question, and I know the answer I'll get, but I'll ask anyways.

Say we change our oil at 3-5k, but you buy a filter that supposed to last 15k. Those high mileage ones. Has anyone ever just drained the oil and put new in, while leaving the old filter there? I know, for good measure and $10, change the damn filter, but if it's still got mileage to go on it, wouldn't it still be effective?

I have a filter that I'm gonna change it out with, but just wondering why we constantly change the filter if it has more life left in it

I'd rather leave the oil and change the filter myself. If your engine is clean you may be able to get away with it. If you're changing oil at 3-5k its proably because its getting dirty. There was someone on the ford expedition forum I think it was, that was using all synthetic oils, and a deep filter, that was changing the filter every 5,000 miles and adding the quart that was lost in the old filter, and had been doing that for the past 60,000 miles.

Your millage may very. I think if you really wanna find out if you can get 15,000 out of a filter, change the filter this time, and cut the old one open, and see how much stuff its caught. Then next oil change don't change the filter, and cut it open after two changes.

The only time I've not changed the filter was before I went on the cali trip because it was a brand new engine, and I just did a drain and fill, to get fresh oil in it after running the brand new engine for ~300 miles. Doing a fresh oil change tomorrow after the ~3,500 mile road trip. This next service interval will be a full length oil change when the oil life meter says 20%.

 

[iamdub]

Say we change our oil at 3-5k, but you buy a filter that supposed to last 15k. Those high mileage ones. Has anyone ever just drained the oil and put new in, while leaving the old filter there? I know, for good measure and $10, change the damn filter, but if it's still got mileage to go on it, wouldn't it still be effective?

I have a filter that I'm gonna change it out with, but just wondering why we constantly change the filter if it has more life left in it

I change the filter on Jenn's car every other oil change, so every 10K miles. It's a small car with a 2.0 liter engine that runs efficiently and cleanly. It gets mostly highway use at mid-RPMs and I use top-quality oil, so the oil nor the filter is subjected to anything harsh. I replace the filter on the Tahoe at every oil change (5K miles), but that's because I end up changing it only 1-2 times a year due to the limited use. It also gets driven harder than Jenn's car does. For any vehicle, I use either WIX, K&N, Fram Ultra or Mobil1 filters exclusively, depending on whichever is available and/or cheapest at the time. I trust their build quality is adequate for more than 3-5K mile OCIs. Now, if it was on an engine that was being flushed/de-gunked and the drained oil contained discernible particles or even was just really dirty, I'd replace it every time.

 

[Rocket Man]

So changing the oil today for the first time with the fumoto plug, damn it takes forever. Still draining after 10 minutes. Oh well, gonna grab some coolant and a bottle of brake fluid to top them off as they are a little low. Not at the minimum yet though. Power steering was full.

So question, and I know the answer I'll get, but I'll ask anyways.

Say we change our oil at 3-5k, but you buy a filter that supposed to last 15k. Those high mileage ones. Has anyone ever just drained the oil and put new in, while leaving the old filter there? I know, for good measure and $10, change the damn filter, but if it's still got mileage to go on it, wouldn't it still be effective?

I have a filter that I'm gonna change it out with, but just wondering why we constantly change the filter if it has more life left in it

Yes the Fumoto and the Femco drains are slow so I just open it and let it drain while I go have some coffee. And for oil filters, I don’t buy 15,000 mile ones so I don’t have to worry about when to change it. I wouldn’t trust it.

 

[gooffeyguy]

It used to be, long ago, old school, that was kind of the norm. Change oil every 3k, but change filter every other oil change. That is why in the owners manual capacity charts they would show two different quantities of oil, one with filter change and the other without.

Example

Oil capacity:
4 quarts
5 quarts with filter change

 

[swathdiver]

Say we change our oil at 3-5k, but you buy a filter that supposed to last 15k. Those high mileage ones. Has anyone ever just drained the oil and put new in, while leaving the old filter there? I know, for good measure and $10, change the damn filter, but if it's still got mileage to go on it, wouldn't it still be effective?

When we were broke we would often leave the filter for a few drain and fills. When we were really broke, we just reset the OLM and voila, we were good for another 7,500 miles! Had to reset that a few times too before we actually did anything. That LZ9 motor ran like a top and the oil was always M1 synthetic.

 

[R3cord303]

New tires! 305/50/20 Toyo AT2s. Meaty looking on stock wheels. No rubbing and 2.5mm taller than stock 275/55/20 so not really any difference.

 

[CHOO CHOO]

Yes the Fumoto and the Femco drains are slow so I just open it and let it drain while I go have some coffee. And for oil filters, I don’t buy 15,000 mile ones so I don’t have to worry about when to change it. I wouldn’t trust it.

I definitely didn't think it would take almost 30 minutes to drain...no big deal

So is there a real quality difference in between a basic Mobil 1 filter and let's say the one that lasts 20k? I usually only use Mobil 1, but tried k and n last time because it had the nut on the bottom. Ended up using the filter wrench anyways.

I also tried the Amazon basics full synthetic oil 5w-30 this go around. Reviews were good and seems like a decent oil. Could be mistaken though

 

[CHOO CHOO]

New tires! 305/50/20 Toyo AT2s. Meaty looking on stock wheels. No rubbing and 2.5mm taller than stock 275/55/20 so not really any difference.

View attachment 231106

Looks like a good winter tire