How To: Setup Auto Ride for Lifts

[SlickA70]

Great info guys I just want to clarify a few things before I buy a lift.

I have a 2007 Escalade EXT AWD/Z55, I want to buy the RC 3.5" lift for an 07 Avalanche 4WD.

I will have to:
- Extend front ride control sensor wires or notch the spacers to make the plug fit
- Extend level control rods all around, either with the threaded rod or with the coupler
- The kit comes with rear shock extneders so that should keep the shock where its meant to be.

Few questions:
- Will the RC upper control arms work for the EXT if they are meant for an Avalanche?
- The kit will lower the transfer case, will this effect the AWD?

I want to get this all right before I do anything, don't want do spend for a Skyjacker kit either (wife lol).

I also have 100% new suspension at all 4 corners (shocks, springs, bump stops) and would hate to mess something up.

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[01Konvict]

Great info guys I just want to clarify a few things before I buy a lift.

I have a 2007 Escalade EXT AWD/Z55, I want to buy the RC 3.5" lift for an 07 Avalanche 4WD.

I will have to:
- Extend front ride control sensor wires or notch the spacers to make the plug fit
- Extend level control rods all around, either with the threaded rod or with the coupler
- The kit comes with rear shock extneders so that should keep the shock where its meant to be.

Few questions:
- Will the RC upper control arms work for the EXT if they are meant for an Avalanche?
- The kit will lower the transfer case, will this effect the AWD?

I want to get this all right before I do anything, don't want do spend for a Skyjacker kit either (wife lol).

I also have 100% new suspension at all 4 corners (shocks, springs, bump stops) and would hate to mess something up.

The upper arms should work as long as they have a mount for the lower ride height rod. The diff drop shouldn’t affect the awd but slightly possible. The only issue you might run into is front driveshaft because of new u joint angles but I highly doubt it

 

[SlickA70]

The upper arms should work as long as they have a mount for the lower ride height rod. The diff drop shouldn’t affect the awd but slightly possible. The only issue you might run into is front driveshaft because of new u joint angles but I highly doubt it

Thanks for that info, do we know any companies selling autoride shock extenders that would fit up to 3" of lift in the rear?

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[01Konvict]

Thanks for that info, do we know any companies selling autoride shock extenders that would fit up to 3" of lift in the rear?

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Only people I know for 3” would be fabtech and think I priced them out around $400 so not worth it. Maybe get rough country ones and make new metal sides then weld them in for the extra length.

 

[SlickA70]

Only people I know for 3” would be fabtech and think I priced them out around $400 so not worth it. Maybe get rough country ones and make new metal sides then weld them in for the extra length.

Sounds about right, I've decided to go with the 3.5 RC lift for the better UCA.. dont want to stress out the rest of the suspension with a spacer lift.

I'll also extend the autoride links, notch out the front strut tower for the sensor if need be as well.

At least I'll have the proper style rear shock spacer and with minimum effort get everything to work properly... I hope.

1. I measured the factory height on my EXT, I'm at 36.5" up front and 37" in the rear with the bags empty. The RC lift is 3.5 f / 1.5 r... that should level it out when the bags air out correct?

2. Has anyone ran 35s with this kit? My front fenders liners dont exist from the truck being lowered for 12 years so I imagine only the rear fender may rub?

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[01Konvict]

Sounds about right, I've decided to go with the 3.5 RC lift for the better UCA.. dont want to stress out the rest of the suspension with a spacer lift.

I'll also extend the autoride links, notch out the front strut tower for the sensor if need be as well.

At least I'll have the proper style rear shock spacer and with minimum effort get everything to work properly... I hope.

1. I measured the factory height on my EXT, I'm at 36.5" up front and 37" in the rear with the bags empty. The RC lift is 3.5 f / 1.5 r... that should level it out when the bags air out correct?

2. Has anyone ran 35s with this kit? My front fenders liners dont exist from the truck being lowered for 12 years so I imagine only the rear fender may rub?

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I think you will be good with that lift. You can still hook up the rods just need to be longer so the sensors are at stock angles. Take some pics before you start the lift so you can match it afterwards.

Yes you should come out completely level with those measurements.

Don’t think but one person and it was a lot of cutting. Really depends on wheels if stock or not. Then how wide of 35” you want. Your Escalade front bumper helps to not rub tires but the rear fender corner could be a problem.

 

[SlickA70]

I think you will be good with that lift. You can still hook up the rods just need to be longer so the sensors are at stock angles. Take some pics before you start the lift so you can match it afterwards.

Yes you should come out completely level with those measurements.

Don’t think but one person and it was a lot of cutting. Really depends on wheels if stock or not. Then how wide of 35” you want. Your Escalade front bumper helps to not rub tires but the rear fender corner could be a problem.

Okay thanks for the info, I saw your other thread about the threaded rods so I will do that.

I'm running 20x9 +18 on 275/55/20, lifted I'll run 33x12.5x20... I'd love to avoid rubbing haha

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[01Konvict]

Okay thanks for the info, I saw your other thread about the threaded rods so I will do that.

I'm running 20x9 +18 on 275/55/20, lifted I'll run 33x12.5x20... I'd love to avoid rubbing haha

Yeah get some all thread rod from local hardware store.

Tires won’t rub with that wheel on a level kit. Post pics when you get it done

 

[harpsubb92]

Hi, read through but still have a couple of questions. Have a 6" fabtech on 2011 ltz w z55. When I got the original lift back was not level so shop rotated rear ride height adjusters to raise rear.

I just got new OEM shocks / struts and now back is sitting higher. Does anyone have a picture of the adjuster in stock position?

Also, the front in stock position would be helpful. I believe fabtech keeps it stock and I dont need extension but would like to double check. I've seen the pics in the thread but can't see it very well.

I'm going to try the dealership lots this week.

Thanks in advance.

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[01Konvict]

The fronts are slightly below level and the rears are just above level. No perfect position but close and make each side equal. Find a stock Denali in town and look at it to match yours

 

[harpsubb92]

Thanks, front looks fine. Rear I went with this...seems close to the bump stop. How much room should be between bump stop?

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[harpsubb92]

Thanks, front looks fine. Rear I went with this...seems close to the bump stop. How much room should be between bump stop?

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[01Konvict]

The rear definitely looks way too close to bump stop. I never put that bracket on mine because it will never bottom out that far unless you break a coil off. But I can tell it’s low. Can you get a picture of the angle on the ride height sensors?

 

[harpsubb92]

That's what I thought. Here's the ride height adjuster.

It's got the 2" spacers under the springs.

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[Buckshotmt]

This is an awesome thread! Thanks for all the great info. I ordered a kit to add 3-1/2 to the front and 3” to the rear of my 2014 suburban but hit the stops when installing the Upper spacer. I didn’t install the lower and decided to try it. Need to install a different upper control arm to get more but the 1-9/16 upper spacer got me over 2-1/2” of lift to the front. I didn’t have to take everything apart as mentioned earlier with the wide opening of the upper control arm. I’ll try to upload a pic showing this. I just ground the bolts about 1/8” of the rounded ends and there was also room to plug the wires in the top.

 

[Buckshotmt]

For the linkage I had to trick it on the way to town to get the tires and alignment but then cut and drilled an aluminum flat bar. The holes ended up being at 1/2 and 1-13/16 from the end of the bar. Had to use 2 of 6mm bolts and nuts to make the connection. I cut the bar long for future lift

 

[kurtibm]

Could someone in-the-know please let me know the rear rod diameter in the center of the rod? My truck ('15 'hoe) is at my other place and I wanted to have the 'shaft couplers' shipped there so I can install.
Thanks much!!

 

[Don R]

Just an update on my experience.

I extended the sensor rods and it definitely made the ride softer (stock).

I put the front on jack stands and used the jack to raise and lower the hub to determine the amount of travel at different locations. I have a 1.5" level, which is actually a 13/16" spacer. I measured the sensor arm travel when moving 13/16" up at the spacer. The sensor arm moved 3/8", so that is what I extended the sensor arm. So 1.5" front lift = 3/8" longer sensor arm. I went the threaded rod route to extend the sensor arm.


View attachment 62674

View attachment 62675

Were did u get the rods and how much longer did u get them

 

[Blkdout07]

Were did u get the rods and how much longer did u get them

It's a 10x24 threaded rod, you can get it at Lowe's near the screw/fastener aisle. Don't check the plumbing department because they aren't there .They are like $3 for a couple feet, cut to whatever length you need them depending on lift size

 

[Blkdout07]

So I want to first off thank Wade (01Konvict) for creating this amazing thread and thank you to all the others who posted. I am posting my first hand experience in regards to lifting an autoride vehicle...

Vehicle- 07 Tahoe LTZ
Lift- 3.5" Rough Country

After scouring the internet for many moons on ways to get the ride height I wanted, I decided on the 3.5" RC lift kit. I didn't want to go 6"+ or get a "leveling" kit I was looking for the height in between. I contemplated doing a level + body lift, but from what I have read, body lifts are no bueno. Even the shop I got my lift installed at recommended against it.

On to the details of what I had to do for my particular set up....

Wheels- Fuel Ripper 20x9 +1 offset
Tires- Toyo M/T 295/60/20 (the Toyos are slightly skinnier and a tad taller than most 295/60/20s)
Additional parts purchased- FTS Autoride extension adapters, 1/4" wheel spacers (rear)

So long short if you are wondering if you need to buy shock extenders along with the RC 3.5" lift, the answer is no. I did purchase extra parts JUST in case. The last thing you want is to have a shop tear your car apart, just to realize you need additional parts. I also purchased a full set of 1" wheel spacers, but ended up not needing them as my stance was perfect at about 1" outside the fender

Now the bad... arriving at the shop a little early to pick up my car, I wanted to check it out while it was up in the air and see if there were any issues and how everything looked

1) Front Auto Dampening- Well I didn't even know I had this feature on my car, but hopefully this helps out the next person. I can't say that if your car has autoride that is has auto dampening struts, but I imagine it does. On the very top of your front struts there is a female connector that comes out at a 45 degree angle. With the RC lift spacer on, this connector isn't able to connect to the male piece, there simply not enough space in the strut cut inside the engine bay to make it work. I tried sanding the female connector down to right before the interior terminals, but that did not work, I still needed about 1/2 an inch to clear. Using some audio equipment I had on hand, I cut the male connecter off to leave enough room to splice the wires. I used some speaker connectors I had and clamped them on the spliced wires, making sure to mark the correct input on the female piece (I also used the rubber "sleeves" to mark negative and positive.) After doing so, they slide right on the terminals then clamped it on the top of the strut.

2) Front Autoride/Auto Dampening Extension- As mentioned above, I was not aware that I had this feature. I was ready to get everything straightened out as I am a very impatient person and a perfectionist. Along with how this thread was started, I needed to extend my front autoride sensor. The FTS extensions were running about $100 with shipping, PLUS I would have to wait on them. So I took the advice of another member in this thread and purchased 10x24 threaded rods from Lowe's. Cost a few bucks and having the adjustable FTS extensions on the rear definitely helped with getting everything on point. When removing the autoride ride. I simply jacked the vechicle on one side to relieve the tension, sprayed WD-40 on the end caps and slid them off. It's a pain in the butt to unscrew them from the top and bottom and I think they were designed to do as I did. I unscrewed the rubber caps from the end using 2 clamping pliers. I ended up cutting the 10x24 rod to 5" exactly for each side and adjusted the rear to 1/2" from rod end piece to extension on BOTH sides of the rod.

3) Trimming- I knew there would be some trimming involved as the RC lift says you can run up to a 33". Well I wasn't settling for that, thats why I went with the 295/60 as these come out to be approx 34.4" x 11.8". Basically you suck in the width so you can go taller and get the rim offset to match around +-5. Had to trim a good bit in the back of the front fender, including the running board. But I'm ok with it as the Hoe looks amazing!

Been driving for about a week now and it has thrown ZERO codes and rides just like stock, which is why I wanted to keep the autoride in the first place. I have a Diablo Progammer on hand to diagnose codes just in case.

Pics to come!