Nbs trucks 01-06 are easier than nnbs 07-14I’ve never done this myself. Aren’t the tranny pans on these GM trucks notoriously difficult to get off because of the exhaust pipe or something?
Exhaust is tighter to pan but not that hard imo
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Nbs trucks 01-06 are easier than nnbs 07-14I’ve never done this myself. Aren’t the tranny pans on these GM trucks notoriously difficult to get off because of the exhaust pipe or something?
If you can fit , yupCan I replace it without jacking up the SUV? Just laying on the ground???
Nope only nbs had drain, they were suck anyway... always stripped outI need to do that. I assume the transmission pan doesn't have a drain plug. So I'll have to add one.
And let me guess..... you’re selling them.....lmaoonce you have the pan out you can add a drain dorman sells a kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/392295281380
lol, yes shameless self promotionAnd let me guess..... you’re selling them.....lmao
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once you have the pan out you can add a drain dorman sells a kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/392295281380
Point taken, it has a drain bolt with a o-ring like a oil pan drain bolt which is smaller so it won't over torque the larger part of the adapter, not everyone has a welderOn my last truck I just drilled and welded in a bung I bought off the rack at the local car parts place. It came with a gasketed bolt, just like OEM. Simple. Worked great.
The one you linked protrudes above the bottom of the pan, so it doesn't fully empty. If fluid still dumps out when I remove the pan, there's no point in the drain. And that nut doesn't appear to be a locking nut. If it vibrates loose, you leak fluid. If the plug has enough removal torque to overcome the retention torque of the nut, it spins, rendering it useless. It's a no for me.
What!?! If you don't have a welder, you should at least get a weldor (a friend who welds)....not everyone has a welder...
that's what I did I bought the B&M deep pan that holds 2 extra quarts, cast aluminum with cooling fins and a drain plug.Or just buy an aftetmarket pan that has fins or tubes to help cool the fluid and a drain plug in it. Then just punch a hole in your stock one and let it drain then throw it away after removal.
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
lol, if I need something welded I just go by any of the muffler shops or my preference is the hardware store/farm supply/machine shop/fabricator that has everything under the sun and if they don't have it they can make it, love that place. these guys >>> there like a harbor freight on steroidsWhat!?! If you don't have a welder, you should at least get a weldor (a friend who welds).
I wasn't saying it's bad. It's just not for me. I'd like it better if it used a prevailing-torque lock nut to keep it from loosening. You can't use thread locker, either. It'll make the sealing washer crack. Don't ask me how I know that.

Working under vehicles is SO much fun.20 minutes to change the suspension air comp. is BS.
Maybe on a brand new model. But on a 10 yr old with corrosion dirt etc.....
Let me just say it took 2 hours to get the old one out and i looked like a cartoon character after with the amount of sand grit etc in mi hair face etc.
Fuse is blown so I have to get a new one at NAPA tomorow...
My GMT900 is making a short road trip tomorrow of about 500 miles round tripThen Sunday I plan on replacing the plugs and wires on it.
20 minutes to change the suspension air comp. is BS.
Maybe on a brand new model. But on a 10 yr old with corrosion dirt etc.....
Let me just say it took 2 hours to get the old one out and i looked like a cartoon character after with the amount of sand grit etc in mi hair face etc.
Fuse is blown so I have to get a new one at NAPA tomorow...
