What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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mtc1328

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are prices high around there?

I think it was a fair price considering my old wheels retail at the dealer for $495.00 per wheel without the center cap. It just happened that there wasn't a good supply for my immediate demand. I thoroughly scavenged Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, OfferUp, and three tire shops. Of course, Facebook Marketplace alerted me of a few good sets for a little less after the purchase, but it's a done deal now.
 

juan84

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Figured I'd ask here before creating a dedicated thread...

Presently I'm sitting at stock height front, about a 1.5'ish drop in the rear which has me sitting about dead level eliminating that factory rake.

At some point the plan is to do a 2/3. Doing a 3 on the rear, are the shorter sway bar links needed? I've seen statements both ways. Not needed until 4+, or needed at 3 also.

If the reigning consensus is that even at 3 it's better to have them, is there anywhere to get just the end links? Apparently Tony no longer has/can get the DJM ones. DJM seems to only offer them in a kit. Maybe those two things are related.
I have them on mine at 2/3
e7ce1fa7d86b2708bfc944a3cc57bb2c.jpg


Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
 

Glisella

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'08 Yukon Denali (so 6.2)

For the passenger side I used a Dorman part # 523-240 (the OEM p/n is 23104735)

For the driver side, there isn't a non-OEM option so I used the OEM one, p/n 23104736.

The driver side mount is a little more difficult to find for some reason, and not sure why Dorman would make one but not the other, who knows. Of the two when removed, my driver side one was definitely more worn out.

Passenger side has two threaded studs that pass through the mount pad on the diff secured by nuts and looks like this:
evrolet-GMC-Truck-SUV-OEM-Front-Right-Differential.jpg



Driver side isn't as flat like the passenger side, is thicker, accepts bolts that pass through the diff carrier case, and looks like this:
n-Escalade-Front-Differential-Carrier-Bracket-Left.jpg


You can buy the four bushings cheaper, but then you have to press them out/in after removing the mounts. A little more expensive, but less work/easier in my opinion to just get the whole brackets.

Not a hard job to do, just a little time consuming (at least for me) getting the driver side bracket out. Less room on that side coupled with a thicker and not exactly flat/straight chunk of metal results in lots of twisting, prying, shifting, raising/lowering of the diff to snake it out. Passenger side is super easy.

Thank you so much and yes, I've looked and couldn't find the driver side. We have same truck so I'll add this to my list of things to do.
 

swathdiver

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Just changed out the passenger side O2 sensor. Can't get at the driver's side from underneath, will have to go in through the wheel well another day as we ran out of light.

Magnaflow Y-Pipe moved the sensor just enough to make removal all but impossible from underneath even with an O2 sensor tool. Previously, I'd never had a problem with a 7/8" wrench; the engineers always left enough room to get a wrench in there to loosen or tighten them.
 

Sam Harris

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Just changed out the passenger side O2 sensor. Can't get at the driver's side from underneath, will have to go in through the wheel well another day as we ran out of light.

Magnaflow Y-Pipe moved the sensor just enough to make removal all but impossible from underneath even with an O2 sensor tool. Previously, I'd never had a problem with a 7/8" wrench; the engineers always left enough room to get a wrench in there to loosen or tighten them.
Weak!
 

BG1988

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600 Mile range club


The maximum MPG out of one of these hybrid is 31.2MPG 764.4 miles range :bleh:

on the way to LA I got 31.2MPG :eek: , on the way back 21.1MPG..

Averaged 26.15 MPG




20190321_160155.jpg

:fuckyea:
 
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PG01

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Just changed out the passenger side O2 sensor. Can't get at the driver's side from underneath, will have to go in through the wheel well another day as we ran out of light.

Magnaflow Y-Pipe moved the sensor just enough to make removal all but impossible from underneath even with an O2 sensor tool. Previously, I'd never had a problem with a 7/8" wrench; the engineers always left enough room to get a wrench in there to loosen or tighten them.


Reminds me when i ‘fixed’ the cat on the honda.... I didn’t have the 02 socket and the open end wasnt grabbing, but the box end of the wrench fit tight on the non-foulers i bought for the ‘fix’.....of course the connector didn’t fit through the box end....I unplugged it, de-pinned the connector, slipped wires through and got my 1/2 turns on the wrench, got it out, slapped the non-foulers on, put the 02 in and re-pinned it .... my arms were on fire working on my back with them up in the air trying to get them stupid pins back in the connector... lol ....next time ill get the socket..
 

BG1988

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The maximum MPG out of one of these hybrid is 31.2MPG 764.4 miles range :bleh:
I could have gotten higher maybe 45-50MPG (Those are Toyota Prius Numbers)

if I ran behind a 18wheeler, but that is straight by my self..

on the way to LA I got 31.2MPG :eek: , on the way back 21.1MPG..

Averaged 26.15 MPG




Around the city here I got 48 MPG (Pruis territory)after 24 miles drive it only pumped 0.5 gallons at my normal gas station... with a range of 1,176 miles.


unfortunately it was favorable wind conditions (tail wind there and tail wind on the way back) so that does not really count
 

Doubeleive

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Just changed out the passenger side O2 sensor. Can't get at the driver's side from underneath, will have to go in through the wheel well another day as we ran out of light.

Magnaflow Y-Pipe moved the sensor just enough to make removal all but impossible from underneath even with an O2 sensor tool. Previously, I'd never had a problem with a 7/8" wrench; the engineers always left enough room to get a wrench in there to loosen or tighten them.
sounds like you might need to use a box end crow foot, or cut a box end wrench in half and hit with a small sledge to break it loose
 

swathdiver

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sounds like you might need to use a box end crow foot, or cut a box end wrench in half and hit with a small sledge to break it loose

Flare wrench?

No room for a wrench. The O2 sensor socket functions as a crow's foot but there's no room to get a hammer up there to whack it. We did put a swivel and long extension on but the ratchet did not afford the leverage to break it loose. I may try it again with my long 1/2" breaker bar, all we need to do is crack it loose and then remove it by hand. Just need three hands to hold the swivel and extension onto the socket, another at the end of the breaker bar and one or two more on the breaker bar's handle! LOL

Pete, where are you? Aren't you passing by tomorrow? LOL

71hEZBIs5OL._SL1500_.jpg
 

Doubeleive

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No room for a wrench. The O2 sensor socket functions as a crow's foot but there's no room to get a hammer up there to whack it. We did put a swivel and long extension on but the ratchet did not afford the leverage to break it loose. I may try it again with my long 1/2" breaker bar, all we need to do is crack it loose and then remove it by hand. Just need three hands to hold the swivel and extension onto the socket, another at the end of the breaker bar and one or two more on the breaker bar's handle! LOL

Pete, where are you? Aren't you passing by tomorrow? LOL

71hEZBIs5OL._SL1500_.jpg
I have both of these, kind of had to do a combo of the two putting the drivers upstream back in

crow.JPG crow1.JPG
 

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