Stiffer front struts???

[kbuskill]

So currently my Burb has a Belltech 4/6 kit on it and with the rear suspension setup the way I have it it's probably closer to a 4/5 kit.

I have the auto ride links set up to lift the rear a little and I also have the air lift helper bladders to try to get rid of some of the bouncing in the rear.

I think I want to lift the front up 1" and basically have a 3/5 setup.

The problem is I don't particularly care for the way the Belltech drop struts ride/handle.

Don't get me wrong... it rides very well for a truck this low. It has very similar ride quality/characteristics to the factory ride.

I just wanted it to be a stiffer/firmer... more sporty/performance oriented type of handling.

Now before anyone laughs... I realize this is a big heavy truck and I am not expecting it to carve corners like a Vette BUT I would like to firm it up a bit.

My thoughts at the moment are to get a set of the Monroe 39106 struts which came on the Tahoe PPVs and then use a set of the Mcgaughys spring relocators set to a 1" drop.

My reasoning for this was reading on here where another member replaced his ZW7 smooth ride suspension with the Z56 PPV suspension and he commented on how much better the truck handled.

I am open to other option or ideas so if you have a shock recommendation please feel free to give it.

One other thing that I am not sure about is if the spring seat on the Monroe strut I listed is removable. I know that some manufacturers make them like the factory to where the seat just slips down around the body of the strut and some manufacturers weld them to the body.

Any insight would be appreciated.

 

[iamdub]

I read recently that the McG adjustable struts are a little firmer than stock. Although, these opinions are subjective, especially when you have Autoride. Some people's Autoride struts ride softer while others, like mine, ride very firm. I believe the AR struts do the opposite of standard shocks/struts and firm up when worn, probably because of over-compensating by the suspension computer.

 

[kbuskill]

I kind of expected more feedback.

Either no one steps out of the box to try new things or I should have posted this in the PPV section.

Perhaps I will.

 

[swathdiver]

Why not just bigger swaybars?

 

[kbuskill]

Why not just bigger swaybars?

That wouldn't help much in dips where both tires are traveling in the same direction.

The Belltechs just seem too soft for my liking.

 

[iamdub]

I kind of expected more feedback.

Either no one steps out of the box to try new things or I should have posted this in the PPV section.

Perhaps I will.

You're not alone. I've often experienced similar since my S10 build.

You and I are pioneers, bro! PIONEERS!!! And we shall march forth with reckless abandon!


I'm off to chop up my rear control arms!



















... Meh. Not today. I'm dealing with a bunch of dad stuff right now.

 

[992dr]

I'd say your best bet would be a coil over conversion.

You'll get the firm ride, plenty of adjustability and tons of options for spring rates.

You're not alone. I've often experienced similar since my S10 build.

You and I are pioneers, bro! PIONEERS!!! And we shall march forth with reckless abandon!


I'm off to chop up my rear control arms!













... Meh. Not today. I'm dealing with a bunch of dad stuff right now.

What are your plans for the rear arms?
I have some but am not sure they are practical. Since its my daily, I have very little time to spend on it.

 

[iamdub]

What are your plans for the rear arms?
I have some but am not sure they are practical. Since its my daily, I have very little time to spend on it.

I'm questioning the relocators that center the axle front-to-back in the wheel well when lowered. Here's my thread on this: Thinking off the deep end

 

[992dr]

I'm questioning the relocators that center the axle front-to-back in the wheel well when lowered. Here's my thread on this: Thinking off the deep end

That's funny, I was literally reading through that thread and saw this notification pop up.

What relocators are you talking about? I wasn't aware of any relocators that center the axle in the wheel wells, I know the ones that relocate the lower link mounts to correct the angle.
DJM RK2007 bracket kit.
"DJM’’s trailing arm brackets reposition the trailing arms down away from the frame to maintain suspension travel when using lowered coil springs."

 

[Doubeleive]

why not just use a spring stiffener? wouldn't that accomplish the same result with little cost or work
maybe something like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kimpex-299...=item5213673d88:g:IqwAAOSwlypb6SdM:rk:36:pf:0

 

[iamdub]

That's funny, I was literally reading through that thread and saw this notification pop up.

What relocators are you talking about? I wasn't aware of any relocators that center the axle in the wheel wells, I know the ones that relocate the lower link mounts to correct the angle.
DJM RK2007 bracket kit.
"DJM’’s trailing arm brackets reposition the trailing arms down away from the frame to maintain suspension travel when using lowered coil springs."

That's the relocators. Technically, they're lower arm relocators and not axle relocators. So, technically again, they're not specifically to push the axle back, but they do. The swing of the arms makes the axle move forward when lowered. Putting the lower arm at it's original angle puts it's axle side attachment point further back, pushing the axle back a little. Now that I'm intentionally searching for pics, I can't find any. I recall seeing a Suburban that was really low and the rear wheel was obviously forward of center in the wheel well.

Let's move this to that other thread so we don't keep dragging this one off topic.

 

[FasterBass]

Digging this up from the grave.

That wouldn't help much in dips where both tires are traveling in the same direction.

The Belltechs just seem too soft for my liking.

Digging this up from the grave. Did you ever get a setup together that worked for your needs? I have a similar issue, the rear with a 2" lowering spring and KYB Monomax shocks seems to be much stiffer (but not harsher) than stock and really what I am going for. Bumps are absorbed and there is no second order rebound oscillation. However, with the exact same shock up front and combined with KYB's stock ride height spring (one of those prepackaged spring/strut combos from rockauto) the front rebound does not match the rear even with the same shock. My guess is that the stiffer rear spring has something to do with this, but wondering also if valving is different with the rear set of shocks to accomodate towing as these are billed as a "HD" replacement.

Anyway, what did you end up with on the front end? @iamdub

 

[iamdub]

Digging this up from the grave.

Anyway, what did you end up with on the front end? @iamdub

I got Belltech #25003 struts for additional drop to the McG spindles. Everyone seems to think the BT struts are too soft. Mine seem really stiff- about as stiff as my really old stock ones due to the AutoRide controller firming them up. But, it may not be the struts. I've read where some say to replace the springs and/or the top mount plate. None of this makes sense to me. I've always known worn springs to be weaker from fatigue, and, therefore, softer. I didn't know the mount plate was a wear item. I thought it was basically just a plate to cap off and retain the coil and strut rod and bolt to the pocket in the frame.

I wanna change some things with the drop, including going lower, and I have some BT #25004 struts on deck for that. I don't know what the difference is, but the '4 is supposed to be an upgraded design from the '3. They're both still a twin tube design. I think I'd rather a monotube.