Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Never heard of that brand.Yeah I'll do the same using some Lord Fusor plastic epoxy I have.
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Never heard of that brand.Yeah I'll do the same using some Lord Fusor plastic epoxy I have.
Body shops use it. I found out about it when raking my Street Glide fairing when I bagged it. That's a hard part to do since it vibrates like hell all the time. Damn Harleys lol.Never heard of that brand.
A lot of debate over this. My entire cooler heats up so it hasn't been an issue with mine facing down. I prefer it be able to drain back into the lines when not running. The factory cooler faces down so why this seems odd is beyond me. I have a 3k stall with the crazy 4l80 gearing, 24s, 3.42 gears and my trans temp hovers around 150deg in stop and go traffic and it's already 90deg in Dallas. My cooler works facing down..I hear some people say that the inlet and outlet have to be facing up and then tru cool says you can mount it anyway. You know anything about that? @bottomline2000
Just ordered the Fleece GM All lights module, replacement fog housings as the passenger side is missing the lens and new JDM LED Fog bulbs. Should all arrive this week.
Looking at biting the bullet and getting the whole suspension re-done. Shocks are the originals and its got 200K miles on it! Ideally, I want to do the brakes, control arms, bushings and shocks all at the same time. Tempted to replace the springs as well though.
Well it's my CC but I thought you guys might enjoy what I'm doing today to my dash. This is one stupid ass GM design. It went from 2 small cracks to about 4-5 by the time I got this damn thing off. I WILL repair this POS and put it back in.
View attachment 199455 View attachment 199456
I have a hot plastic stapler coming and then I'll use wire and epoxy for reinforcement. I pulled my NBS dash in minutes and painted it. The painting took awhile but whatever. It was strong, just had paint issues. I like everything about the NBS design, the entire truck is a breeze to work on. Look at the difference in the headlights- NBS don't even need a single tool to pull them, NNBS you have to dismantle the entire front of the truck including pulling the bumper. Crazy. The same engineers must not have been in on the new design. And they just keep getting harder to work on. But still, I worked on my daughter's Passat and I'll NEVER work on a German car again. Those things are stupidly engineered.Ironic the gmt800s have 0 cracked dash issues. My almost 20yr old dash is just a little dusty lol. I'd fiberglass the damn thing, paint or wrap it with leather.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
I must have read for days on this when I was installing mine, as well as talking with Tru-Cool. Those people really need better tech support because it took a miracle to get through to someone who knows anything about their products. There's some guys who think the only way for them to work is if the fittings are on the top and those who swear it doesn't matter. I looked at what Tru-Cool said, the fact that like you said the factory one works like that, the fact that there's plenty of guys who report that it works fine either way, and how my lines are coming into the bottom so it would be a PIA to route them to the top, and mounted it with the fittings at the bottom. And guess what? It worked great. But them a few months later I had to move it to behind the lower grill area because my intercooler needed to go where it was and the lines ended up at the top. It still works great.A lot of debate over this. My entire cooler heats up so it hasn't been an issue with mine facing down. I prefer it be able to drain back into the lines when not running. The factory cooler faces down so why this seems odd is beyond me. I have a 3k stall with the crazy 4l80 gearing, 24s, 3.42 gears and my trans temp hovers around 150deg in stop and go traffic and it's already 90deg in Dallas. My cooler works facing down..
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
Yes, you willShocks finally came in! Now my only question is how do I know if I still need the shock extenders in the rear or not?
View attachment 199471
View attachment 199469 View attachment 199470
I had a body shop sand the shit out of mine and use etching primer. 2 years so far and it's still good. I tried peeling the original and no bueno, it only partially came off with a razor and ruined it. I had to buy an aftermarket. I don't know how @05Single is getting that all off.
My front end was done the same way Rocket Man did his. The body shop sanded it like crazy and it is still holding up. As are both the front and rear bumpers.
View attachment 199480
But you also baby yours lol. And it lives a life of luxury in FL.My front end was done the same way Rocket Man did his. The body shop sanded it like crazy and it is still holding up. As are both the front and rear bumpers.
View attachment 199480
But you also baby yours lol. And it lives a life of luxury in FL.
I'm glad I took all the chrome off the grille tho, last chrome grille I did started chipping right away so this time I'll be 100% sure it won't chip. But as for the chrome bumper I'll have to paint over it and hope for the best.
How every vehicle should live it's life.I have a few paint chips, she lives outside, no garage, no snow, no salted roads, killer UV...buuuut yes she is a big, pavement pounding baby. Lol
View attachment 199507
I tried to mount mine fittings up and it was going to be a complete nightmare to route the lines. I put an infrared gun on it yesterday and it seems there is some kind of bypass in what is considered to be the top of mine . It was hot on the inlet side across the top and as you go down and closest to the outlet side it got cooler and this is with the fittings upside down. I'm going to temp it with the truck running just for giggles, but it does seem to force the fluid back to the top of the cooler and then works it's way down to the outlet. It's not just a big open tank that fills from the bottom. Myth busted lol..I must have read for days on this when I was installing mine, as well as talking with Tru-Cool. Those people really need better tech support because it took a miracle to get through to someone who knows anything about their products. There's some guys who think the only way for them to work is if the fittings are on the top and those who swear it doesn't matter. I looked at what Tru-Cool said, the fact that like you said the factory one works like that, the fact that there's plenty of guys who report that it works fine either way, and how my lines are coming into the bottom so it would be a PIA to route them to the top, and mounted it with the fittings at the bottom. And guess what? It worked great. But them a few months later I had to move it to behind the lower grill area because my intercooler needed to go where it was and the lines ended up at the top. It still works great.
Edit: I have a 2800 stall and a 4l60 level 3 "invincible" Performabuilt trans that cost me a small fortune so I wanted to be sure. Plus the blown and cammed 6.0 pushes it pretty hard. It stays cool.
Anybody else get in on the Harbor Freight class-action? I remember filing about a year ago and it was supposed to be about $10 per person. I got a $160 gift card today. yay!