What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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bottomline2000

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I hear some people say that the inlet and outlet have to be facing up and then tru cool says you can mount it anyway. You know anything about that? @bottomline2000
A lot of debate over this. My entire cooler heats up so it hasn't been an issue with mine facing down. I prefer it be able to drain back into the lines when not running. The factory cooler faces down so why this seems odd is beyond me. I have a 3k stall with the crazy 4l80 gearing, 24s, 3.42 gears and my trans temp hovers around 150deg in stop and go traffic and it's already 90deg in Dallas. My cooler works facing down..

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Bombsquad85

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Shocks finally came in! Now my only question is how do I know if I still need the shock extenders in the rear or not?

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Bombsquad85

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Just ordered the Fleece GM All lights module, replacement fog housings as the passenger side is missing the lens and new JDM LED Fog bulbs. Should all arrive this week.

Looking at biting the bullet and getting the whole suspension re-done. Shocks are the originals and its got 200K miles on it! Ideally, I want to do the brakes, control arms, bushings and shocks all at the same time. Tempted to replace the springs as well though.


Do it! It's an all day affair but worth it in the end. I just did the lower control arms they weren't bad once I figured out the Tbar and what not. I cheated a little and got the drop kit with new spindles so I didn't have to fight with the stock hubs and spindles I just bought new wheel hubs as a preventitave measure. Next up is UCAs and tierods and I should be done
 

bottomline2000

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Ironic the gmt800s have 0 cracked dash issues. My almost 20yr old dash is just a little dusty lol. I'd fiberglass the damn thing, paint or wrap it with leather.
Well it's my CC but I thought you guys might enjoy what I'm doing today to my dash. This is one stupid ass GM design. It went from 2 small cracks to about 4-5 by the time I got this damn thing off. I WILL repair this POS and put it back in.

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Devilmk4

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@bottomline2000 .. thanks just wanted to know because am ordering fittings and it was between a 150degree to be ran on top or the 90 degree facing down.
 

Rocket Man

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Ironic the gmt800s have 0 cracked dash issues. My almost 20yr old dash is just a little dusty lol. I'd fiberglass the damn thing, paint or wrap it with leather.

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I have a hot plastic stapler coming and then I'll use wire and epoxy for reinforcement. I pulled my NBS dash in minutes and painted it. The painting took awhile but whatever. It was strong, just had paint issues. I like everything about the NBS design, the entire truck is a breeze to work on. Look at the difference in the headlights- NBS don't even need a single tool to pull them, NNBS you have to dismantle the entire front of the truck including pulling the bumper. Crazy. The same engineers must not have been in on the new design. And they just keep getting harder to work on. But still, I worked on my daughter's Passat and I'll NEVER work on a German car again. Those things are stupidly engineered.
 

Rocket Man

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A lot of debate over this. My entire cooler heats up so it hasn't been an issue with mine facing down. I prefer it be able to drain back into the lines when not running. The factory cooler faces down so why this seems odd is beyond me. I have a 3k stall with the crazy 4l80 gearing, 24s, 3.42 gears and my trans temp hovers around 150deg in stop and go traffic and it's already 90deg in Dallas. My cooler works facing down..

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I must have read for days on this when I was installing mine, as well as talking with Tru-Cool. Those people really need better tech support because it took a miracle to get through to someone who knows anything about their products. There's some guys who think the only way for them to work is if the fittings are on the top and those who swear it doesn't matter. I looked at what Tru-Cool said, the fact that like you said the factory one works like that, the fact that there's plenty of guys who report that it works fine either way, and how my lines are coming into the bottom so it would be a PIA to route them to the top, and mounted it with the fittings at the bottom. And guess what? It worked great. But them a few months later I had to move it to behind the lower grill area because my intercooler needed to go where it was and the lines ended up at the top. It still works great.
Edit: I have a 2800 stall and a 4l60 level 3 "invincible" Performabuilt trans that cost me a small fortune so I wanted to be sure. Plus the blown and cammed 6.0 pushes it pretty hard. It stays cool.
 

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