Transmission problem?

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

Oh yeah. I am changing the fluids today.
The transmission filter kit was cheaper than I thought. Thankfully it has a rubber gasket.
All my fluids are synthetic for the drivetrain.
Hopefully the shifting is a little smoother after this. Thanks for the information.

Plus you did clarify what I thought was true. This 4wd system cannot be disengaged.
Still have to check with a dealer and a few mechanics as to why a Yukon would be built with a spot for the fuse? Besides the Vin code actually mentions it has 4 wheel steering so possibly that is wrong as well. Possibly a mistake made by the manufacturer? Oh well. Someday I will figure that one out. Until then fluid time! Going to be great to get the drivetrain fluids changed.

AWD cannot be turned on & off. The 4 wheels are being driven at all times.
The traction control is associated entirely with the vehicle braking (& in some cases suspension) system, and not the driveline. When TC is turned off, the system shuts down a percentage of the braking effort used to control wheel spin.

Can it be that the transmission just shifts 'sluggish' so to speak? My truck has always shifted like a slush box... It is programmed by GM to shift smoothly as possible. As time & wear takes its toll, the slug shift becomes more pronounced. Some folks install bigger servos and boost valves to firm shifts & increase hydraulic pressure within the original unit but you have to consume those options with theory of mechanics and a components useful service life.

If you give it 3/4 accelerator like you are wanting to really move, the shifts will be, or should be, noticeably crisper.

My driving style is slow and steady and the trans in my truck feels like it really drags the shift out. Most people are quick to have the transmission parameters changed whenever they are having a tuner modify the ECM for engine performance. This would be my preference, considering that none of the parts are being changed or upgraded; it is the same components acting within a different program that results with improvement. Most economical option, as well. At least until the orig trans' completely fails. I'm unaware of any testing or data but I would claim that modification of the engine ignition & auto transmission @ the earliest possible time in the host vehicle would extend the service life beyond the factory/engineering conservative specs, given moderate driving habits and timely oil/filter replacement, maintenance as-needed.

Unless there was a drastic & sudden change with the trans manners, I wouldn't think it much to distress over. Over time, the shifting characteristics are bound to become looser as parts wear out and line pressure decreases. There isn't anything you can do except mask the wear by upgrading with performance parts but the underlying issue of wear & tear doesn't change. But you could certainly hasten trans failure when attempting to override a small issue instead of rebuilding or replacing the failing components, which is the only good option you have for transmission service. A fluid drain & replace can't hurt; request that only a Dexron-6 be used. The spec Dex-3 for the 800gmt is outdated technology. It was superseded by the -6 formula back in 06/07.

http://twincharlotte.com/blog/30-common-4l60e-transmission-problems-repair-charlotte-nc/

#16

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

AWD cannot be turned on & off. The 4 wheels are being driven at all times.
The traction control is associated entirely with the vehicle braking (& in some cases suspension) system, and not the driveline. When TC is turned off, the system shuts down a percentage of the braking effort used to control wheel spin.

Can it be that the transmission just shifts 'sluggish' so to speak? My truck has always shifted like a slush box... It is programmed by GM to shift smoothly as possible. As time & wear takes its toll, the slug shift becomes more pronounced. Some folks install bigger servos and boost valves to firm shifts & increase hydraulic pressure within the original unit but you have to consume those options with theory of mechanics and a components useful service life.

If you give it 3/4 accelerator like you are wanting to really move, the shifts will be, or should be, noticeably crisper.

My driving style is slow and steady and the trans in my truck feels like it really drags the shift out. Most people are quick to have the transmission parameters changed whenever they are having a tuner modify the ECM for engine performance. This would be my preference, considering that none of the parts are being changed or upgraded; it is the same components acting within a different program that results with improvement. Most economical option, as well. At least until the orig trans' completely fails. I'm unaware of any testing or data but I would claim that modification of the engine ignition & auto transmission @ the earliest possible time in the host vehicle would extend the service life beyond the factory/engineering conservative specs, given moderate driving habits and timely oil/filter replacement, maintenance as-needed.

Unless there was a drastic & sudden change with the trans manners, I wouldn't think it much to distress over. Over time, the shifting characteristics are bound to become looser as parts wear out and line pressure decreases. There isn't anything you can do except mask the wear by upgrading with performance parts but the underlying issue of wear & tear doesn't change. But you could certainly hasten trans failure when attempting to override a small issue instead of rebuilding or replacing the failing components, which is the only good option you have for transmission service. A fluid drain & replace can't hurt; request that only a Dexron-6 be used. The spec Dex-3 for the 800gmt is outdated technology. It was superseded by the -6 formula back in 06/07.

http://twincharlotte.com/blog/30-common-4l60e-transmission-problems-repair-charlotte-nc/

#16

Thanks. Mine is found out is the 465LE. I was thinking it was the 60. Almost the same though. Interesting read thanks for the information!

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Chubbs]

adult conversation, intelligent things to say.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

I doubt you are capable, lacking common sense & all.

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

Like I said intelligent conversation. Wow.

I doubt you are capable, lacking common sense & all.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

If memory serves, only the Suburban and Yukon XL had Quadratrac, not the short ones.

Just saw your new post above, the digital owner's manual does now call it Quadrasteer, go figure. Page 4-16.

I have a 2004 Yukon Denali XL and it does have a fuse where the 4WS fuse has a spot for it. It has connections under it.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

Oh yeah. I am changing the fluids today.
The transmission filter kit was cheaper than I thought. Thankfully it has a rubber gasket.
All my fluids are synthetic for the drivetrain.
Hopefully the shifting is a little smoother after this. Thanks for the information.

Plus you did clarify what I thought was true. This 4wd system cannot be disengaged.
Still have to check with a dealer and a few mechanics as to why a Yukon would be built with a spot for the fuse? Besides the Vin code actually mentions it has 4 wheel steering so possibly that is wrong as well. Possibly a mistake made by the manufacturer? Oh well. Someday I will figure that one out. Until then fluid time! Going to be great to get the drivetrain fluids changed.


Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

Thanks man. Well tried and hit a snag. Someone at some point stripped the drain plug for the transmission oil. So I have to get a new one them we are draining it.

I did solve one problem though. I had error codes for both banks showing lean and my check engine light was on. Tried some royal purple max clean fuel system cleaner in the tank and a day later the light turned off!

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

Thanks. Mine is found out is the 465LE. I was thinking it was the 60. Almost the same though. Interesting read thanks for the information!

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

Well today finally my Yukon is on the rack! Complete drivetrain fluid change in one day, both differentials and transmission flush. I was hesitating on the flush but it doesn't leak so I think it will be fine.

One friend of mine thought it was a differential and not the transmission. Either way I know these fluids need changing so it is a good place to start. Thanks for all the help people! I will update soon on whether this affected the shifting or not.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

Well today finally my Yukon is on the rack! Complete drivetrain fluid change in one day, both differentials and transmission flush. I was hesitating on the flush but it doesn't leak so I think it will be fine.

One friend of mine thought it was a differential and not the transmission. Either way I know these fluids need changing so it is a good place to start. Thanks for all the help people! I will update soon on whether this affected the shifting or not.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

So transmission is done. Now waiting for the differentials. Good I talked to the mechanic forgot to mention I wanted the transfer case done as well. So a big bill but worth it to see where I am. I am kind of optimistic. My father had a 2wd f150 that was over 10 years old shifted rough but no noise when he had it flushed it was like a brand new transmission.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[CountryBoy19]

I have a 2004 Yukon Denali XL and it does have a fuse where the 4WS fuse has a spot for it. It has connections under it.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

The easy way to tell is to see if your rear axles have steering linkage to turn the wheels that would silence the naysayers. I'm not sure the presence of a fuse means much. There aren't fuse boxes and wiring harnesses specific to every individual option combination, only a few variations. Maybe you ended up with a fuse box/harness variation that also included the 4WS system and then somebody along the lines saw and empty fuse position in the box and decided to fill it (even though the option isn't there).

The even easier way is to look at your RPO code list (the sticker in the glove box with a bunch of 3-digit codes on it). According to my GM Master RPO code list the code for 4-wheel steering is "NYS". If "NYS" is on your glovebox sticker you should have the 4-wheel steering (unless it was removed at some point).

 

[swathdiver]

My truck felt like a bucking bronco when I first got it, trying to go in three different directions until we changed all the drive train fluids.

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

The easy way to tell is to see if your rear axles have steering linkage to turn the wheels that would silence the naysayers. I'm not sure the presence of a fuse means much. There aren't fuse boxes and wiring harnesses specific to every individual option combination, only a few variations. Maybe you ended up with a fuse box/harness variation that also included the 4WS system and then somebody along the lines saw and empty fuse position in the box and decided to fill it (even though the option isn't there).

The even easier way is to look at your RPO code list (the sticker in the glove box with a bunch of 3-digit codes on it). According to my GM Master RPO code list the code for 4-wheel steering is "NYS". If "NYS" is on your glovebox sticker you should have the 4-wheel steering (unless it was removed at some point).

What's an rpo code? Sorry do you mean Vince code?

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

My truck felt like a bucking bronco when I first got it, trying to go in three different directions until we changed all the drive train fluids.

Almost done. Around 1000 dollars and the entire drivetrain system fluid change will be complete. Around 330,000 kms. No leaks after the transmission was flushed! Hope it shifts better. I will update later. At least there should be less of a slip when it shifts now. He said the transmission fluid was black. So good I had it done.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

What's an rpo code? Sorry do you mean Vince code?

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

Sorry auto not correct. I mean vin code

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

What's an rpo code? Sorry do you mean Vince code?

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

I will look for that sticker don't think it is there

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

Almost done. Around 1000 dollars and the entire drivetrain system fluid change will be complete. Around 330,000 kms. No leaks after the transmission was flushed! Hope it shifts better. I will update later. At least there should be less of a slip when it shifts now. He said the transmission fluid was black. So good I had it done.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

Good thing is they used the latest dextran 6 I think is the latest. Only 30 min more I think.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

The easy way to tell is to see if your rear axles have steering linkage to turn the wheels that would silence the naysayers. I'm not sure the presence of a fuse means much. There aren't fuse boxes and wiring harnesses specific to every individual option combination, only a few variations. Maybe you ended up with a fuse box/harness variation that also included the 4WS system and then somebody along the lines saw and empty fuse position in the box and decided to fill it (even though the option isn't there).

The even easier way is to look at your RPO code list (the sticker in the glove box with a bunch of 3-digit codes on it). According to my GM Master RPO code list the code for 4-wheel steering is "NYS". If "NYS" is on your glovebox sticker you should have the 4-wheel steering (unless it was removed at some point).

I will check. Oh well. Just odd that when you disable the traction control my steering is so much better for parking.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[CountryBoy19]

What's an rpo code? Sorry do you mean Vince code?

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

RPO codes are the codes used to tell exactly what options your vehicle has. There should be a longlist of 3-digit codes on a sticker in the glovebox. That will tell you everything right down to paint/interior colors, axle gear ratio, etc... IE, GT5 code is a 4.10:1 gear ratio, G80 code is limited slip differential, ZW7 is premium smooth-ride suspension (Nivomat), and as previously mentioned, NYS code is 4 wheel stearing

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

RPO codes are the codes used to tell exactly what options your vehicle has. There should be a longlist of 3-digit codes on a sticker in the glovebox. That will tell you everything right down to paint/interior colors, axle gear ratio, etc... IE, GT5 code is a 4.10:1 gear ratio, G80 code is limited slip differential, ZW7 is premium smooth-ride suspension (Nivomat), and as previously mentioned, NYS code is 4 wheel stearing

I will look for that. The fluid change went well. The transmission still slips but not as bad.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

Thanks. Mine is found out is the 465LE. I was thinking it was the 60. Almost the same though. Interesting read thanks for the information!

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the information. Yes the transmission flush helped. It still slips but not as bad. I asked and the shop said they don't carry destroy 3 only 6. Thank you for your knowledge and insight. The truck is 15 years old after all. The mechanic said the transmission was really dirty. So at least the transmission will last longer. I was afraid in the beginning that it would fail.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

My truck felt like a bucking bronco when I first got it, trying to go in three different directions until we changed all the drive train fluids.

I have noticed improvement. I know the mechanic said the transmission was really dirty and had too much fluid. So they used dextron 6. I also forgot to mention one item. If anyone else decides to flush remember you don't need to replace the filter.

I would have liked to replace but the transmission pan had been changed with an aftermarket one. So the drain plug was stripped. I left it and got the flush. They told me at the shop it would cost quite a bit more to get it changed as well. Wish I could have afforded it. Although this way I know my drivetrain will last a lot longer.

If you don't have a leak (as mine didn't) I would not be afraid of a flush. The new systems use motor power. The old systems used a high power pump is why they blew seals.


Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk