What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Kenny D

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Technically not today, but I am one step closer to making my rear speakers work. After studying the wiring diagram for the RSE I noticed that the rear speaker wires go in and out. I cut into the wires and hooked a speaker into them and got sound coming out, so I know that the rear channel of the radio is still good. I don't think the speakers are blown because neither the rear doors or the D pillar speakers play. I am thinking the wires are broken or shorted somewhere between the RSE and the rear speakers. I didn't have time to pull the panels and run new wire yesterday. Probably tackle that this weekend or next.
 

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Technically not today, but I am one step closer to making my rear speakers work. After studying the wiring diagram for the RSE I noticed that the rear speaker wires go in and out. I cut into the wires and hooked a speaker into them and got sound coming out, so I know that the rear channel of the radio is still good. I don't think the speakers are blown because neither the rear doors or the D pillar speakers play. I am thinking the wires are broken or shorted somewhere between the RSE and the rear speakers. I didn't have time to pull the panels and run new wire yesterday. Probably tackle that this weekend or next.
Maybe crimped in the rubber boot in the door frame?
 

Kenny D

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I read a service bulletin that the wiring can become damaged in the B pillar by the seatbelt retractor. I have already pulled the covers in the past and seen no chaffing or damage. It appears that the harness leaves the radio and goes through the console to the RSE and back forward to the radio area. Just too much to disassemble and trace out. I will just run new wire since I can get signal right out where I cut the wires.
 

Kenny D

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Someone already had the dash out to repair the cracking before I bought it, I thought the wires could have been damaged then so I decided to investigate the RSE approach.
 

Rocket Man

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Someone already had the dash out to repair the cracking before I bought it, I thought the wires could have been damaged then so I decided to investigate the RSE approach.
Did you hook the wires direct to each other at the RSE, bypassing that thing? Another trick is to use a cordless tool battery like one off a drill and hold one speaker wire to the negative terminal of the battery and touch the other wire to the positive terminal and if the speaker pops the wire is good. It's also useful when trying to figure out which pair of wires go to which speakers.
 

XEALOT

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Changed my oil :)






Wowza, what a beaut. Love the color.

Just got some Ghemical Guys Hex Logic pads for my polisher, hoping mine will clean up as good as yours.

Those Hex pads work very well, that's what I used also.



Quick wash, quick wipe of the engine bay, and vacuumed the interior.
IMG_0727.JPG
IMG_0732.JPG
IMG_0739.JPG
 

Kenny D

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Did you hook the wires direct to each other at the RSE, bypassing that thing? Another trick is to use a cordless tool battery like one off a drill and hold one speaker wire to the negative terminal of the battery and touch the other wire to the positive terminal and if the speaker pops the wire is good. It's also useful when trying to figure out which pair of wires go to which speakers.
No I didn't bypass it, I am just going to splice into the output of the RSE that way it still functions. I just find it weird that I have sound to the RSE because the headphones work and output wires give sound but none of the rear 4 speakers play. Has to be a major break in the harness somewhere. Although I didn't have a fully functional test speaker, just a 2 way that the woofer was blown but I did get sound from the tweeter when testing the output.
 

kbuskill

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No I didn't bypass it, I am just going to splice into the output of the RSE that way it still functions. I just find it weird that I have sound to the RSE because the headphones work and output wires give sound but none of the rear 4 speakers play. Has to be a major break in the harness somewhere. Although I didn't have a fully functional test speaker, just a 2 way that the woofer was blown but I did get sound from the tweeter when testing the output.

You now have me curious...

I assume you have the Bose system.

I was looking at the wiring diagrams in my Chiltons manual and it actually doesn't show the Bose amp in the system.

I am curious if the signal for the rear speakers goes through the RSA control before it goes into the amp and then to the speakers.

If that were the case I would think that perhaps you have an issue with the rear channels on the amp.

However, if on the other hand the rear speaker signal ran through the amp first and then to the RSA control and on to the speakers then I would suspect the problem to be in the RSA control.

You say you have sound into and out of the RSA control, correct?

That would make me lean more towards the amp being the problem.

Have you checked the RSE fuse?

Do you have a rear TV and if so is it working?
 

Kenny D

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Non bose system. The RSE works, sound through headphone jacks and sound through the output wires leading to the speakers. I looked at my manual's diagrams also. That is why I think the break is in the harness after the RSE and before the rear speakers.
The RSE I have is just the radio, no tv or dvd player. I even tested the mute feature ( RSE mutes the rear speakers when it powers on.) With the test speaker in place, I powered it up and the speaker shut off, turned it off and speakers plays.
 

Rocket Man

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Non bose system. The RSE works, sound through headphone jacks and sound through the output wires leading to the speakers. I looked at my manual's diagrams also. That is why I think the break is in the harness after the RSE and before the rear speakers.
The RSE I have is just the radio, no tv or dvd player. I even tested the mute feature ( RSE mutes the rear speakers when it powers on.) With the test speaker in place, I powered it up and the speaker shut off, turned it off and speakers plays.
It would have to be a complete harness cut in half or if there's a connector where all the wires go through that's unplugged if all 4 speakers are out. But I guess if the rear channels are wired parallel that would be 2 sets of wires. It just seems unlikely to me but who knows. I'd be tearing the irear interior out for sure.
 

Kenny D

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From what I can tell without pulling the console, the harness comes from the radio, passes through the RSE, and returns to the front all under the console. Where they split off is anyones guess. The plan is just to run new wire to the rear 4 speakers. I can do that in less time and less trouble than tearing out the seats and console, etc.
 

kbuskill

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From what I can tell without pulling the console, the harness comes from the radio, passes through the RSE, and returns to the front all under the console. Where they split off is anyones guess. The plan is just to run new wire to the rear 4 speakers. I can do that in less time and less trouble than tearing out the seats and console, etc.

Did they all stop working at once?
 

kbuskill

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They have never worked since I bought the truck last year.

I know the front speaker wires run through behind the kick panels under each side of the dash. When you pull the kick panels you will see the wiring I'm talking about. I would bet the rear speakers probably run through the same connectors.

Shouldn't be to hard to look and see if the proper wire colors are there and if so test them with a speaker there as well.
 

LanceD

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They have never worked since I bought the truck last year.

This may be a dumb question but did you try pushing the source button on the rse panel? On my wife’s with rse when you push source it turns off all the rear speakers. I think it is so that people in back can listen to something plugged into the jacks on the rse panel separately?
 

Rocket Man

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From what I can tell without pulling the console, the harness comes from the radio, passes through the RSE, and returns to the front all under the console. Where they split off is anyones guess. The plan is just to run new wire to the rear 4 speakers. I can do that in less time and less trouble than tearing out the seats and console, etc.
It wouldn't make sense for the rear speaker wires to go back to the front from there but who knows. I'd start at the rear speakers and work forward to see where they go, and if they keep going past the RSE you can just stop there and run new wires I guess. Don't forget obviously that you need to wire them in parallel if that's how the factory wiring is.
 

swathdiver

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They have never worked since I bought the truck last year.

Kenny, what are your truck's RPO codes as it relates to the radio system. If you have the RSA, that is RPO UK6. The radio might be UQS, UQ3, UQA, etc. The Cadillacs and Denalis and maybe the LTZs will have Y91 (includes Lux-Amp) too.
 

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