What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[bottomline2000]

Where’d you get the boots for the tie rods? I’ve been thinking about putting a pair on myself.

Finally figured out where I got the heim joint covers..company called Seals It..Im sure I bought them off Amazon.

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[6speedblazer]

Need some pics!

its a denali headlight so it looks the same. but here you go.

just lows.

quad highs. This is highs on the projectors and LED high beam bulbs on at the same time.

sorry, but i didnt take any pictures of the assembly. but i can answer any questions you have.

 

[Chubbs]

@M1Gunner

I bought this truck last summer; brakes and coolant are the only things I have left to service. it has new pad/rotors all the way around at this point. This brake fluid appears to be the original fill.

Not only have i read different testimonials, but I've a couple of mechanic buddies tell me they gravity purge their own brakes even though they have access to pressurized equip at work which they use on customer jobs. They say nothing beats a good gravity flush. In the past i always did the 2-person brake bleed but its whatever.

 

[05alive]

Was there anything special with the install of the spindles? Any special tools or tips?

Replace bj's while you have everything apart. I see you're from VA and you don't get crazy rust and corrosion like the NE, but it can be a bear, especially on older vehicles. You'll already have everything out for the spindle replacement, might as well rent/ borrow a press and push the ball joints out while you're right there. It saves you time disassembling/reassembling everything and an extra alignment.

I spent 7 hours to do my drivers side a couple years ago, I ended up having to cut out the upper with a torch.

 

[Shaw520]

Thats good advice Gunner,...how do you bleed via scan tool ???

@M1Gunner

I've a couple of mechanic buddies tell me they gravity purge their own brakes even though they have access to pressurized equip at work which they use on customer jobs. They say nothing beats a good gravity flush. .

Id like to know the proper procedure for gravity purging,... I was under the impression that since ABS that you cant thoroughly bleed via gravity.

 

[04Huck]

Replace bj's while you have everything apart. I see you're from VA and you don't get crazy rust and corrosion like the NE, but it can be a bear, especially on older vehicles. You'll already have everything out for the spindle replacement, might as well rent/ borrow a press and push the ball joints out while you're right there. It saves you time disassembling/reassembling everything and an extra alignment.

I spent 7 hours to do my drivers side a couple years ago, I ended up having to cut out the upper with a torch.

Press them out, right Don't even bother with that, just buy new loaded arms. That way you get new bushings too and don't have to spend hours fighting the BJs

 

[PG01]

Thats good advice Gunner,...how do you bleed via scan tool ???


Id like to know the proper procedure for gravity purging,... I was under the impression that since ABS that you cant thoroughly bleed via gravity.

Scan tool can pump the abs module so it forces air out...

 

[00'BlueSteel]

Press them out, right Don't even bother with that, just buy new loaded arms. That way you get new bushings too and don't have to spend hours fighting the BJs

I had a shop press and the rented ball joint tool, did the lower controls completely, replaced ball joints and bushings. If I had known how hard it was gonna be and I would have had the money I would have just bought all new ones.

 

[Chubbs]

Thats good advice Gunner,...how do you bleed via scan tool ???


Id like to know the proper procedure for gravity purging,... I was under the impression that since ABS that you cant thoroughly bleed via gravity.

the better equipped diagnostic tools have a function that pulses the ABS pump. But you don't need that for everyday caliper replacement or BF refresh. I've heard of people doing the same thing by jumping the ABS relay with a paperclip or wire when in a jamb.

the real method to gravity purge is get a long ass tube that reaches from the caliper to any point higher than the MC reservoir. you put tube on the caliper, run the other end to your catch can 4-feet or more off the ground with enough BF already in it to submerge that hose end; secure everything well. open the caliper valve and let it go, maintaining the full-fill of new BF in the MC reservoir. Other than that, you would just use a shorter hose with catch can right there on the ground. some BF in the can with hose submerged and secured. open the valve, then get in the truck and hit the brake pedal 1/2 dozen times. do not push the brake pedal to the floor. only halfway at the most, nice and steady motion.

 

[95escahoe]

Dropped off the Escalade to have rims put on along with new tires and found out I’ve got a bad outer tie rod end, which explains this issue I’ve been having with the front end


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[Bombsquad85]

Replace bj's while you have everything apart. I see you're from VA and you don't get crazy rust and corrosion like the NE, but it can be a bear, especially on older vehicles. You'll already have everything out for the spindle replacement, might as well rent/ borrow a press and push the ball joints out while you're right there. It saves you time disassembling/reassembling everything and an extra alignment.

I spent 7 hours to do my drivers side a couple years ago, I ended up having to cut out the upper with a torch.

I was planning on that. My ball joints are shot I'm pretty sure of it.

 

[05alive]

Press them out, right Don't even bother with that, just buy new loaded arms. That way you get new bushings too and don't have to spend hours fighting the BJs

Lol huck you’re gonna hate me.
I cut them flush with the control arms, heated the shit out of them, then hammered them out with an old kingpin from a dump truck I had lying around. The bottoms I said screw it and blew out with the acetylene torch.

Then I realized I just wasted about 110 dollars of my time and even more of my buddy’s.

If I wasn’t looking to do it as cheap as possible I would have bought new arms.

 

[Isaiah W]

I broke my Tahoe today. Kinda. It won't run at idle, when i try to start it, it just dies right away. Only stays alive if i rev it. Probably a fuel pump or throttle body injector. We'll see what mechanic says tomorrow, I managed to keep it running to drive it to the shop.

 

[Bombsquad85]

Lol huck you’re gonna hate me.
I cut them flush with the control arms, heated the shit out of them, then hammered them out with an old kingpin from a dump truck I had lying around. The bottoms I said screw it and blew out with the acetylene torch.

Then I realized I just wasted about 110 dollars of my time and even more of my buddy’s.

If I wasn’t looking to do it as cheap as possible I would have bought new arms.

So new control arms. Any recomendations? I have new lower bjs laying around from my tahoe but if they are that big of a pita I'd rather just go the control arm route

 

[M1Gunner]

I broke my Tahoe today. Kinda. It won't run at idle, when i try to start it, it just dies right away. Only stays alive if i rev it. Probably a fuel pump or throttle body injector. We'll see what mechanic says tomorrow, I managed to keep it running to drive it to the shop.

Possibly a horrible vacuum leak, maybe purge solenoid stuck open... hopefully something along those lines that will be a quick easy and less painful to the wallet fix. Let us know brother.

 

[Chubbs]

update: after flushing the brake lines out last night, the driving manners of this truck have changed quite a bit. The commute to work this morning gave me the opportunity to put it through most scenario but just the handling and drivability improved so much, the braking was an added bonus; I knew the truck was fighting me but didn't realize how much until now.

all of that excessively-correcting the steering wheel at high-speeds that I posted on last year along with the 'wandering' was not an element to this morning's commute.

as for the actual braking characteristics, I wasn't experiencing any nose dive or veering. The braking is now predictable. Before, I would have no action for the first half of pedal travel, with all of the stopping effects at the bottom. Now, it is just smooth braking from beginning to end of pedal travel. I'm anxious for the drive home when I can put it through a couple of other exercises so I will update if its worth discussing.

 

[JollyRoger01]

Not sure if I like the tails or not but I did it over the weekend. Do you all think they're too dark?

 

[04Huck]

Lol huck you’re gonna hate me.
I cut them flush with the control arms, heated the shit out of them, then hammered them out with an old kingpin from a dump truck I had lying around. The bottoms I said screw it and blew out with the acetylene torch.

Then I realized I just wasted about 110 dollars of my time and even more of my buddy’s.

If I wasn’t looking to do it as cheap as possible I would have bought new arms.

Lol Tony had the same idea when we did his 4/6 on his crew cab. He was all like "I've done this before, no problem. Just cut an X in the head of the bolt, knock the head off with a hammer and chisel and they'll come out with a couple swings."

...........almost 4 hrs later, the new ones are in. Bottom only mind you This time around, when we lifted the truck, he just bought all new arms lolol

So new control arms. Any recomendations? I have new lower bjs laying around from my tahoe but if they are that big of a pita I'd rather just go the control arm route

The upper line Moog's are what I would use. I think my buddy that bought some not long ago found the best deal on Amazon

 

[brian.roberts.1293]

Got a deal on some rims and another deal on some 1100 mile take off tires the other day. Getting them put on today. I'm pretty excited.

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[Tonyrodz]

Got a deal on some rims and another deal on some 1100 mile take off tires the other day. Getting them put on today. I'm pretty excited.

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Got a pic of the rims?