Advice on rust + install found on 2010 Tahoe underside

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kalig

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I would sell wheels and tires for 20x12/33 or 22x12/33. Ditch bull bar, remove window vents, steps, and door moldings. I think the silver bumper center could pull off with some black machined wheels. Could swap chrome grille for a black one. Get 1.25" wheel spacers to even track width. Then retrofit the headlights and get xb led fogs. It will definitely pull the look off then!

Thanks for the input!

Agreed on the vents/moldings/steps/grill. Although I do need some kind of steps for dealing with anything on the roof rack (I'm small, I can't see over my stock 03 as it is, this truck will dwarf me). I've seen some pics on here of some nice ones I could put on. I don't like chrome so the bar has to go, but I'm thinking of getting a black one for it. But this stuff will come later. My first order of business is dealing with any replacement/rebuilds needed on the lift adn new tires/wheels.

Some questions:

Why 33 over 35 tires? Also, going to 33s will greatly reduce the rim-tire ratio more (which I kind thought was too low as is). How do you think any off road capabilities would be with a 20x12/33 vs 20/35 or even 17/33?

I assume the spacers will just make the wheels stick out a bit to help offset the height? If so, why 1.25" vs any other sizes? Is there some math in here I need to do in order to get to the appropriate spacer size?
 

01Konvict

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Thanks for the input!

Agreed on the vents/moldings/steps/grill. Although I do need some kind of steps for dealing with anything on the roof rack (I'm small, I can't see over my stock 03 as it is, this truck will dwarf me). I've seen some pics on here of some nice ones I could put on. I don't like chrome so the bar has to go, but I'm thinking of getting a black one for it. But this stuff will come later. My first order of business is dealing with any replacement/rebuilds needed on the lift adn new tires/wheels.

Some questions:

Why 33 over 35 tires? Also, going to 33s will greatly reduce the rim-tire ratio more (which I kind thought was too low as is). How do you think any off road capabilities would be with a 20x12/33 vs 20/35 or even 17/33?

I assume the spacers will just make the wheels stick out a bit to help offset the height? If so, why 1.25" vs any other sizes? Is there some math in here I need to do in order to get to the appropriate spacer size?

Well a lot goes into the tire size and spacer. I’m assuming the hoe has stock gearing which is 3.42 and stock size is 31.7” weighing 43 lbs. Say you run a 35” that measures 34.7” and weighs 76 lbs. On the stock gearing that will kill all power and gas mileage. Say you run a 33” that measures 32.7-33.5” depending on size brand and roughly weigh 63 lbs. The size is closer to stock and weight is less. This equals more power to the ground. Most people run 35s on 6” lift but never gear it. Judging by the picture it appears to be 20x9 with 35s. As far as off road capabilities the tallest tire that the motor can put power down is best. I prefer a big wide look which is what you will get with a 20x12/33 setup. Pure off-road would be 18x9/35-36. However for maximum travel you will need to stay 33” because of GM square fenders.

Spacers are simple. The front is 1/4” wider than rear stock and the kit increase front width by 1” each side. That’s why a 1.25” is perfect. Most people choose 1.5” but mainly for stock wheels to not trim stud ends. Both sizes you need to trim stud ends but not threads for aftermarket wheels.

For appearance I wouldn’t put any bar on front. Get amp steps. Yes they cost a lot but offer the best option. Drop the furthest and hide out of the way against the body.
 
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kalig

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Awesome! Thank you for such a detailed post. I have some homework to do!
 
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kalig

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Oh yes, sorry, the tires are 35x12.50R20. So big heavy ass tires for sure.

I looked up the wheels, they are BMF Novakanes which seem to be really good wheels. So possibly powder coating instead of replacing is an option.

Tires are so damn expensive that I might stick with these for a while and then look to replace some down the road.
 

01Konvict

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Oh yes, sorry, the tires are 35x12.50R20. So big heavy ass tires for sure.

I looked up the wheels, they are BMF Novakanes which seem to be really good wheels. So possibly powder coating instead of replacing is an option.

Tires are so damn expensive that I might stick with these for a while and then look to replace some down the road.

Those tires are super heavy weighing in at 78.44 lbs each. Can you get a close up pic of those novakanes? Do NOT powder them! Those are a PVD chrome powder and they quit making that wheel finish. You will be able to get good money for them if the condition is right. Now knowing the wheel it might be a x10 but doesn't seem like an aggressive offset though. I would get the nitto ridge for the replacement tire.
 
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kalig

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I'm not near the truck now and going to look at it (and likely buy it) on Saturday.

Here's a close up from a video I got from the seller:
https://imgur.com/a/8RbyF

I don't think the condition is great. Looks pretty pitted to me. What do you think?
If I could sell them and the tires and get good cash that'd be great to fund new wheels/tires. But I'd hate to get new wheels/tires and then not be able to sell these for much. :(

I'll look into Nitto Ridge.
 

01Konvict

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Yeah look pretty pitted but those wheels are popular so maybe someone would get them chromed again. Tires look decent tread so that setup would bring $1000-1200 easy. New setup will likely cost $3000 for good stuff. Make money off selling the bar and vents
 
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kalig

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Yeah that was my thinking, $1k to sell the wheels/tires seem like a waste vs just getting the wheels powder coated and running the tires until new tred is needed and then maybe getting a new setup then.

Also could look into re-gearing. From what I've read that should be about $900. Which sounds like it would be good to do even if I went to 33 Nitto Ridges due to the increased weight and slight diameter increase.

I'm so indecisive about this kind of stuff. :)
 

01Konvict

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Dang that's a lot of surface rust. How much time do you want to put into it and what's the sale price?
 
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kalig

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Dang that's a lot of surface rust. How much time do you want to put into it and what's the sale price?

I haven't haggled with them yet. They are asking book price b/c it only has 43k miles.

I plan on pointing everything out I've learned on here and from general homework.

If I get it, I'd certainly work on rust removal and then sealer (like por 15/rustbullet type thing).
 

01Konvict

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I haven't haggled with them yet. They are asking book price b/c it only has 43k miles.

I plan on pointing everything out I've learned on here and from general homework.

If I get it, I'd certainly work on rust removal and then sealer (like por 15/rustbullet type thing).

Low miles but that’s some rough wear under it. I mean each part needs to be sanded and painted or coated. I wouldn’t pay more than trade in to private party value in good to fair condition for it based on kbb numbers. Check nada too they will be lower but gives you an idea. The lift and tires add $2k max over book value.
 
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kalig

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Low miles but that’s some rough wear under it. I mean each part needs to be sanded and painted or coated. I wouldn’t pay more than trade in to private party value in good to fair condition for it based on kbb numbers. Check nada too they will be lower but gives you an idea. The lift and tires add $2k max over book value.

Yikes, ok.

Yeah the rust in the pics I saw previously didn't look as bad b/c of the lighting. That's why I came to post here to see what you guys say.
I've been struggling to find a 09-14 z71 in that charcoal gray. When I found this one with low mileage, I was stoked.
 

95escahoe

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Got some more pics of the rust I was asking about. This time with better lighting and the wheels off.

Adding to the main post as well: https://imgur.com/a/eLSzI

That’s definitely fixable just a matter of if you want to deal with it or if you can find something cleaner that you’d rather get


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kalig

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That’s definitely fixable just a matter of if you want to deal with it or if you can find something cleaner that you’d rather get

Agreed, I'd much rather get something cleaner. This is the first one I found with sub 80k miles in a long time though. :(
 

95escahoe

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Agreed, I'd much rather get something cleaner. This is the first one I found with sub 80k miles in a long time though. :(

I wouldn’t get too worried about miles, I mean low mileage is nice but a 80k mile truck might be better taken care of then a 45k mile truck, the condition of the exterior is a big one to me if the exterior and interior is pretty clean odds are the truck was taken care of, but that’s just my line of thinking


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kalig

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It is pretty clean. I just gotta decide if that rust is worth dealing with. If so, tehn I'm treking 3.5 hours to go look at it. :)
 

95escahoe

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It is pretty clean. I just gotta decide if that rust is worth dealing with. If so, tehn I'm treking 3.5 hours to go look at it. :)

Or if you don’t want to deal with it get a price from a shop at cleaning it up, there’s a place up here they clean the frame down to bare metal and paint it looks better then new and it holds up very well should be some places down there that do the same


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kalig

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Or if you don’t want to deal with it get a price from a shop at cleaning it up, there’s a place up here they clean the frame down to bare metal and paint it looks better then new and it holds up very well should be some places down there that do the same

Any idea what htey charge for that? Even a ballpark price would be good. I googled it but it's all over the place.
 

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Any idea what htey charge for that? Even a ballpark price would be good. I googled it but it's all over the place.

This is a dump truck but it shows how it comes out, they start SUV’s at $700 blasted & painted

8f006d37ccb87917b2522ad8d8a90681.jpg



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