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PG01

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Yup....

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PG01

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I just went out to rotate tires and change oil and of course.... no filter in my stock.... off to auto parts store. 5 minute drive... lets seeewhat i get it up to
 

PG01

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So, i got home from autoparts store and had to go drop my son off at his friends house, pulled into garage after that and was @ 13.5... no pic....but geez, she really puts her foot in it. Well, if it doesn’t last its not my fault....i can only maintain something so much.
Oil changed and tires rotated an gave everything the once over.... damn rusty frame...
I never really am in a vehicle when she drives because i always drive, its a guy thing i guess.
I do remember a time, years ago before kids, we had the harleys on the trailer and were driving out to see here cousins near Dallas TX and my ‘01 Tahoe had to be almost new. It had no third row at the time and with the second row down and a few sleeping bags it was pretty comfortable...anyway, she was driving and next thing i know my knees are in my chest and im up against the second row headrest and front seats because she locked them brskes up hard, then i was at the back doors because she floored it... needless to say i dont sleep if she drives on our Florida trips... at all
 

randeez

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:D


Heres from last night, 93 octane. still doesnt launch all that great,Abs/stabilitrac/traction control isnt happy :eek:
May try and pull a few fuses before i go back to see if it helps. I think track is shut down untill january tho


View attachment 188894

went to track again last night after a little bit of suspension mod... only got a few runs in but consistently better than before. first run of the night beat my previous best (car# 6674). need some new tires
20180224_151326.jpg
 
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swathdiver

swathdiver

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Ordered up the Magnaflow Y-Pipe with new cats and resonator and completed the install over the weekend. We started on Thursday and thought we'd be done in a couple of hours. Had a tough time cutting through the stainless after exhausting ourselves on getting some stuck bolts freed up. Got the left side cat off but could not get the right. Tried cutting away the flange, that didn't work too well. Tried loosening the sway bar and busted a bolt head off, tried cutting out another section and that just exhausted me. Called a guy with a Chevy work truck and races a Nova, turns out he's a Ford fan and liked to insult GM/Chevrolet owners. He quoted a price and did most of the work, wimped out on that busted bolt. Won't be allowed to touch my truck again. This is why I learned to do all this myself. Anyway, enough of that.

Drives, fine, seems quieter, maybe slower but can't really tell. There's too much traffic to get on it around here. Reset the fuel composition a couple of times and the Trims. Left bank reads as before, slight negative but the right side is higher than before, about -6 on LTFTs. I need to crawl back underneath and look for exhaust leaks and then check the intake manifold bolts I guess. Fuel mileage wants to climb higher but this old man idles the truck while the girls run inside for "just one thing" and emerge 3 or 4 or 5 songs later with bags of stuff.

All of the O2 sensors dance around but maybe they should get replaced. I'll feel better when that busted bolt is out and replaced and I get a chance to check out the guy's work underneath and resolve that fuel trim issue.

And how about this, one of the Load Range C KO2s has a nail in it, down to 41 psi. I was really hoping to avoid road hazards with these tires! Well, it's time for a rotation/balance anyway.
 
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swathdiver

swathdiver

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Aired up that tire and it hasn't leaked a drop since. Wife has been using the truck since hers was down and I've been down recovering from the antics of the post above. At times the short and long trims are at zero, other times positive and others negative but the right bank seems a mite different than the left. The injectors are pulsing a hundredth less than the other side, that's how little but there is a difference.

Hired one of my daughter's classmates to help out with the truck and around the house over the weekend. Nice fella, his parents have done well in training him up. He successfully drilled through the broken stabilizer bar bolt but the easy out snapped off inside. None of my bits could make a dent in that Irwin easy out. Now what?
 

Kenny D

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You may need to look online and order you a carbide tipped or solid carbide drill bit. You can check with MSC industrial or McMaster Carr. Possibly if you have a Grainger close by, they may have one.
 

kbuskill

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Aired up that tire and it hasn't leaked a drop since. Wife has been using the truck since hers was down and I've been down recovering from the antics of the post above. At times the short and long trims are at zero, other times positive and others negative but the right bank seems a mite different than the left. The injectors are pulsing a hundredth less than the other side, that's how little but there is a difference.

Hired one of my daughter's classmates to help out with the truck and around the house over the weekend. Nice fella, his parents have done well in training him up. He successfully drilled through the broken stabilizer bar bolt but the easy out snapped off inside. None of my bits could make a dent in that Irwin easy out. Now what?

I have never had much luck with an "easy" out. 95% of the time they break 100% of the time...:sunot:
 

Kenny D

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An easy out is really just for bolts that are broken from over torque or sheared off and not for seized or rusted in place. If you break a bolt trying to remove it, it is best just to drill it out and re-tap or get a Heli-coil kit because it isn't coming out.
 
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swathdiver

swathdiver

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Irwin is sending me some new bits but I reckon I should drill clear through the old bolt and do it again and again in 1/64th increments until there's nothing left. Then I can either use a tap to push out the remnants and clean up the existing threads or go up a size and use a helicoil.

So, will M35 type drill bits suffice for a hand drill or should I use M42s? Someone on another forum mentioned that Norseman's standard bits are so good that one doesn't need to use M35s. I just want this done and over with. My DeWalt bits and lots of names long forgotten did not work.
 
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swathdiver

swathdiver

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On another note my Long Term Fuel Trims at idle are in the negative, between -2 and -8 but underway they are in the positive, between 2 and 3 on both banks. The right bank is slightly further away from zero compared with the left bank most of the time but not all of the time.

From what I can hear and from what my helpers noted from below while the engine was running, there are no exhaust leaks. I was thinking of re-torquing the intake manifold to spec but need one for inch pounds, even converting to foot pounds, mine are too big and don't go that low. Need to do a visual inspection and maybe one with propane to check for leaks too.

Any other ideas as to what this could be? Anything I should watch for with the Tech2?
 

Kenny D

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Irwin is sending me some new bits but I reckon I should drill clear through the old bolt and do it again and again in 1/64th increments until there's nothing left. Then I can either use a tap to push out the remnants and clean up the existing threads or go up a size and use a helicoil.

So, will M35 type drill bits suffice for a hand drill or should I use M42s? Someone on another forum mentioned that Norseman's standard bits are so good that one doesn't need to use M35s. I just want this done and over with. My DeWalt bits and lots of names long forgotten did not work.
Depending on how center you are on the starting drill hole, you may not be able to salvage the original threads. If you are real close to center, once you start to see the appearance of threads, you can probably work it out with a punch but if the threads are really rusted together you will just end up destroying them anyway. As far as using a heli-coil, if it isn't a blind hole I would be careful you don't end up pushing the coil through as you install the new bolt.
 
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swathdiver

swathdiver

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Thanks Kenny, it is not a blind hole. While the bolt is long, about 2 inches, it only goes through about 1/2 inch of frame and about an inch of the bolt protrudes from the other side. Not enough room up there to put a nut on it or even needle nose vise grips. I forgot about the helicoil being for blind holes. Maybe this is above my pay grade now...
 

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