Fosscore's 2013 Suburban LTZ Build Thread

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swathdiver

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This came stock with the 2013 LTZ.

Here are a few pics of the cover.

View attachment 182125 View attachment 182126

Zoom in and you will see 4 tabs at the top that slide in under the chrome strip.

There are 2 twist tabs at the bottom that push through holes on the underside of the bumper and twist lock the cover so it will not fall down.
View attachment 182127

Check out this Street Scene cover.
http://www.streetsceneeq.com/chevy-suburban-tahoe-07-13-rear-hitch-cover.html

It says 07-13 and around $100.
@swathdiver

Thanks! My GMC has a different bumper cover, not shaped like yours so that cover is too big. I do like the symetry and that it covers the hoist access cover whereas mine does not.
 
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Fosscore

Fosscore

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Polished all the chrome on the truck tonight. The wheels looked good from far... but far from good.

They needed some elbow grease and a bit of Flitz to shift the grime and hard water deposits. Everything is clean and shiny now.

Before
IMG_6524.JPG


After
IMG_6525.JPG


IMG_6526.JPG


Polished the front mesh grill out in between all the gaps. What a PITA, but much needed.

One LED license plate light had wiggled loose, so I pushed that back in tight and it worked.

Found my front passenger door handle was broken just like the rear passenger did last spring. Grrrr...

Found a replacement for $18 on Amazon Prime, but with the Labor Day weekend, the part won't actually arrive for 6 days. Grrrr...

Making headway slowly.
 

05Single

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Polished all the chrome on the truck tonight. The wheels looked good from far... but far from good.

They needed some elbow grease and a bit of Flitz to shift the grime and hard water deposits. Everything is clean and shiny now.

Before
View attachment 182191

After
View attachment 182192

View attachment 182193

Polished the front mesh grill out in between all the gaps. What a PITA, but much needed.

One LED license plate light had wiggled loose, so I pushed that back in tight and it worked.

Found my front passenger door handle was broken just like the rear passenger did last spring. Grrrr...

Found a replacement for $18 on Amazon Prime, but with the Labor Day weekend, the part won't actually arrive for 6 days. Grrrr...

Making headway slowly.
6 days waiting for shipping :laughing1:girl please!

Wheels look great , I'm assuming I can find that stuff anywhere ?
 
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Fosscore

Fosscore

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What's up with that tree branch on the back? :think:

Wife uses the tree branch. It is staying on, but would like to make it go away. Lol

6 days waiting for shipping :laughing1:girl please!

Wheels look great , I'm assuming I can find that stuff anywhere ?

I know, I wasn't happy about the shipping delay, but what can you do?

Thx about the wheels.
Flitz can be found at Bed, Bath and Beyond or Wal Mart. It is non-abrasive, and can be used on pretty much anything.

Just another option in the polishing bin that can be used more than just its intended advertised use.

Here is another personal favorite product of mine. All the steps, depending on how aggressive you want to go are amazing.

IMG_6527.JPG
 
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Fosscore

Fosscore

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22,707 miles.

Made some great headway the last few days putting the Suburban back in tip top detail shape.

Washed, clay bar with the Mothers Speed Clay 2.0 for something different (I tested it side-by-side with traditional clay and found the results were the same. In the high humidity, I would get clay residue or drags. Not wth the 2.0. I washed it out, put it back in the package and it is ready to go for the next detail. Pretty happy with how it performed), washed again, dried it, then DA polished the paint with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (this has been my go to for both trucks the last few details as it cuts the crap, is aggressive, but gentle and leaves the paint ready to be sealed and coated), sealed with Surf City Garage Nano Seal and I decided to finish off with Collinites 845 Insulator Wax rather than the SCG Nano Glaze this time.

I do love the 845 and coated the entire truck as the final step. Full washes from here on out will get the Lucas Oil Slick Mist treatment.

I DA polished out all the windows, (sunroof and windshield as well), with Aqua Tech Water Spot Remover, then coated them with Rain X.

The interior got the works as well. Full vacuum, all the floor liners were scrubbed with heavy duty cleaner, all surfaces and leather wiped down. The leather will get another more detailed cleaning and conditioning later.

The engine bay got rinsed down and dressed with some 303.

Finally back looking good. Here are the pics.

IMG_6555.jpg
IMG_6554.jpg
IMG_6556.jpg
IMG_6558.jpg
IMG_6560.jpg
 
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Fosscore

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My product list for this detail.

FullSizeRender.jpg


My favorite 3 all purpose cleaners. Least agressive from left to right.
Simple Green for the engine bay and hammered those floor liners with Spray Nine (keep that away from your paint as it will strip the wax off!). The Formula 88 is more like Spray Nine.
FullSizeRender-2.jpg
 

08HoeCD

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Awesome.

I'm with you on Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Collinite 845, for sure. Easy to use and highly effective.

Well done.
 

juan84

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Sounds good wonder if the denali would be a little louder with the 6.2

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
 

TM98

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What pad did you use for applying the Aqua tech?
 
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Fosscore

Fosscore

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Replaced the passenger front door handle this morning.

Pretty straight forward considering I had just done the passenger rear a few months ago. Such a shame how cheap these handles are, but thankfully replacements are only $20.

Good video here to explain the removal details, so I will save the write up.

You will need a flathead screwdriver, 10mm socket with long extension and also handy if you have a body panel plastic tool. Should take you about 30 minutes.


Door handle pulls away from the door meaning that crappy pot metal/plastic has just broken.
IMG_6931.jpg



Removed: Sail panel (3 clips), door handle cover plate (1 x 10mm bolt), door grab handle cover plate (2 x 10mm bolts) and lock cover plate and lock to expose the lock rod. Flathead screwdriver used to remove the 3 cover plates. Window/door lock panel with the faux wood has the main clip in the front and gently work around to the back lifting it up and out. Door handle has 3 x 10mm bolts and unclip the lock rod from the yellow plastic retaining clip.
IMG_6933.jpg



Color-coded harness on the underside of the window/door lock panel that needs to be unclipped to pull the door panel away from the door. Then you can unclip the door handle cable. I have heated/cooled seats and chose not to unhook that switch and just let the panel rest on the power running boards to change the door handle.
IMG_6935.jpg



OEM and replacement. Identical with the same 2 weak plastics/pot components.
IMG_6936.jpg



Door handle removed. Note the knurled pot metal insert still stuck to the door. This is what broke off and has the 10mm bolt attached on the inside of the door. I used the socket on the inside and a pair of pliers on the outside to get it unscrewed.
IMG_6937.jpg
 
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Fosscore

Fosscore

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What pad did you use for applying the Aqua tech?

@TM98

Sorry delay man. Was dodging Hurricane Irma. Can be applied by hand with any pad or microfiber, but it's a lot of elbow grease. I used my DA and a more aggressive pad to spin slow on the water spots. Of course the corners will need to be done with your finger. Maybe even crack the window to make sure and get the areas of the window that tuck up inside the weather seal. Then coat with Rain X, Aqua Pel or even Collinite's 845 Insulator Wax works too.
 

08HoeCD

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Bad news is that you've experienced so many failed door handles.

Good news is that you can probably replace them and button everything up now in under 15 minutes!

I learned that Gruven offers replacement inserts (stainless?) that are much longer/thicker/stronger and which, once installed, should eliminate most failures of this type. I don't have the link handy but think they're about $30 per door handle.
 

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