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laydout97

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I have had 3 sets from the sellers I listed. I have had no trouble out of them in the 2 years I have had the kits. I have a set on my s10, a set on my bike, and I put a set in my mom's grand am. I do recommend a relay harness for the lights. It will keep the HID's from flickering or not lighting. You should use a relay harness for each set of HID's. 9006 for low beam and 880 for fogs.

Here's the link for the relay harness...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9005...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
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vatahoelt

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do most people disable the auto-on feature with the headlights once they get HIDs? i've read that it's bad for them to just come on instantly. or would the harness help with that?
 

laydout97

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The harness takes the load off the factory headlight wires and puts the load on the battery. If you are running a system, it's a must. I don't see why there would be a problem with the auto on feature with or without a harness. I have always used a relay harness and have not had any issues with a bulb or ballast. I have 2 sets in the mail now for the lows and fogs. I will try to remember to do a HOW TO for everyone.
 

DenaliAK

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do most people disable the auto-on feature with the headlights once they get HIDs? i've read that it's bad for them to just come on instantly. or would the harness help with that?

lol

So far as I know, there is no "gradual" on for headlights (as opposed to instantly).

I just left the auto-on on, and it seems to work fine for mine. If you meant instantly on start up, I could see all of the initial current draw having an effect, especially on a bad or poor-quality ballast. However, even in the cold up here where starting an engine is harder then normal, I haven't had any issues with the lights. Might just be my current set-up with the high-quality stuff. If you run a wiring harness to the battery, start-up shouldn't have much effect anyway as your drawing full power all the time.
 

vatahoelt

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lol

So far as I know, there is no "gradual" on for headlights (as opposed to instantly).

I just left the auto-on on, and it seems to work fine for mine. If you meant instantly on start up, I could see all of the initial current draw having an effect, especially on a bad or poor-quality ballast. However, even in the cold up here where starting an engine is harder then normal, I haven't had any issues with the lights. Might just be my current set-up with the high-quality stuff. If you run a wiring harness to the battery, start-up shouldn't have much effect anyway as your drawing full power all the time.


sorry, was in a hurry to post that. was talking more about having them pulse on and off. i park in a park parking garage and oftentimes my lights will come on and then turn off as i leave the garage within a few seconds.
 

DenaliAK

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sorry, was in a hurry to post that. was talking more about having them pulse on and off. i park in a park parking garage and oftentimes my lights will come on and then turn off as i leave the garage within a few seconds.

Oh, ok.

It's either dark most of the time or light most of the time here, so they tend to either be on or off...lol. Not much on/off switching while driving at all.

Just realized how dumb that sounded. I mean because in the winter, like now, we have about 6 hours of daylight. Most of that I'm usually at work and not driving. The rest of the time, the lights need to be on. Then in the summer, it's light all the time except for a couple of hours, so they usually don't need to be on at all.
 
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tybardy

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hahahaha... i never noticed you are from Alaska... I go to Homer in July and fish halibut
 

DenaliAK

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hahahaha... i never noticed you are from Alaska... I go to Homer in July and fish halibut

My family had a boat there for about 15 years. Then my dad retired and moved to WA state and took it with him. I'm still pissed off about that, because I miss the fishing....lol.
 

laydout97

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You might be able to find a company that ships from overseas. If they are from, say china, it might be cheaper to ship them to you. I know that it has to go through customs, so that may be the issue.
 
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tybardy

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did you try the DDM setup... from my understanding, under $100 still aint bad compaired to what it used to be
 

Rollin Thunder

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No, when they first appeared, a set could cost up to a grand!:eek:


my first kit was 600 bucks!!!. But whats wierd is most HIDS are standard on most new cars today. LIke the vette, standard, But my moms acadia, 500 bucks still for them. dads enclave which was cheaper than her acadia, standard. Gm is confusing.
 

laydout97

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I don't understand why the z71 packages come with paint matched bumpers and grille. A paintable bumper or grille is cheaper than a chrome one. The z71 option is the most expensive option so why does it have cheaper painted parts on it?
 
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tybardy

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i believe the idea is because those chrome bumpers are far more suseptable to "pin striping" and scratches from brush and such from going off road.
 

Rollin Thunder

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alot easier to re paint the take deep scratches out of crome. plus the LT and nnbs LTZ is more expensive.
 

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