Fosscore's 2006 Tahoe Build Thread

[kwOH]

I was kinda thinking that but wasn't sure @kwOH thanks bud


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I think there is somewhere u can order the nnbs calipers and they come with the brackets too, don't quote me on that but i think thats what ive heard, then just get the nnbs rotors, idk if u can do it without changing the brake lines or not. Im also interested in doing this as soon as my front brakes need changed.


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[05Single]

Best part is it's 100% straight bolt on. If it wasn't I wouldn't even think about a brake upgrade.

I'm actually gonna find a decent used oem set at the salvage yard off a nnbs for dirt cheap. Brackets and calipers . Clean them up then powder coat or paint them. Find rotors with life left and just get them turned.
Then spend money on new steel braided lines and new pads

 

[DDenali]

Best part is it's 100% straight bolt on. If it wasn't I wouldn't even think about a brake upgrade.

I'm actually gonna find a decent used oem set at the salvage yard off a nnbs for dirt cheap. Brackets and calipers . Clean them up then powder coat or paint them. Find rotors with life left and just get them turned.
Then spend money on new steel braided lines and new pads

Any suggestion on stainless braided brake hose kits. I'm thinking about just upgrading just the front since the tears are dual piston


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[Fosscore]

@kwOH @05Single @jerryjoe28 @DDenali Maybe @Red Rocket @ScottyBoy @Pachanga02 will chime in as they have done this upgrade if I remember correctly.

Ok guys here are a couple threads on this subject. NNBS upgrade, SS brake lines, hydroboost, minimum 17" wheels for clearance. Lots of good info, even a few old posts, but the first thread is the newest.


07+ Brake upgrade on a 00-06 NBS, is it worth it?
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/07-brake-upgrade-on-a-00-06-nbs-is-it-worth-it.81497/

StopTech SS braided brake hoses
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/stoptech-ss-braided-brake-hoses.89761/

NNBS Brake Upgrade
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/nnbs-brake-upgrade.53780/

Brake upgrade??
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/brake-upgrade.44614/page-2#post-566518

 

[Pachanga02]

I haven't done the braided lines upgrade yet. I can say this though the 07+ upgrade is noticeable on stock wheels. When I did it I had my stock 17" denali wheels and the upgrade barely cleared them, I got rid of the stock spare and bought a 20" denali wheel and 22" escalade wheel. Right now I have the 20" under there and when I run the esky wheels I switch to the esky spare. The lines I'd like to do eventually. @Fosscore

 

[05Single]

Oops I forgot the hydroboost . I'll need to look into that too.

 

[bottomline2000]

Oops I forgot the hydroboost . I'll need to look into that too.

THIS gives the brakes a more progressive feel meaning the harder you press the more bite u get. I didn't have that with vacuum assist brakes and it was kinda scary at times.

I wonder how much difference there is in a BBK with vacuum vs hydro boost and nnbs upgrade. I doubt it's worth the difference in price..

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[jerryjoe28]

@Fosscore well ive been reading on this idea all morning lol. after looking at the thread you shared on painting I noticed tony said he used the slotted only R1s. is there any advantage or disadvantage to going with drilled and slotted, or is it just because they look good? also did you look into the R1s?

 

[Fosscore]

I did look at the R1s, but think I went with the PS setup due to price, compatibility and having all the pieces together in one kit, if you will. I was looking for convenience and after reading many threads, there were so many combinations of pads/rotors and opinions on drilled/slotted too. You know how it goes, even on the TYF, every one has a thought and there rarely is a straight line vote, even on something as a brake pad. That's what makes this forum so great, but also sometimes hard to make a decision as there are so many products and options out there and first hand, real world reviews from members using them every day.

I liked the way they looked. They still look great and after a fresh coat of paint last month, they look good again as do the calipers, even though they are OEM from 2006. Do they give me any more performance advantage over a solid rotor? Probably not. Again my setup does not stop on a dime. Hard to remember it running on 16s to tell you the truth and whether it ever did stop that hard.

I'm sure the 24s don't help, but neither does 3 tons of Tahoe barreling down the road. I wish it did, but I do have comfort knowing that my pads and rotors were new and coupled with the lower center of gravity and new shocks with the drop, I did make some improvements in that department that should help overall.

Put it this way, no matter which way you go with the brakes upgrade to NNBS or just replacing what you have, it will be new. New on an older truck will still be a win, because it is new, even if all the components around it are not. Just my thoughts on that question.

 

[jerryjoe28]

I did look at the R1s, but think I went with the PS setup due to price, compatibility and having all the pieces together in one kit, if you will. I was looking for convenience and after reading many threads, there were so many combinations of pads/rotors and opinions on drilled/slotted too. You know how it goes, even on the TYF, every one has a thought and there rarely is a straight line vote, even on something as a brake pad. That's what makes this forum so great, but also sometimes hard to make a decision as there are so many products and options out there and first hand, real world reviews from members using them every day.

I liked the way they looked. They still look great and after a fresh coat of paint last month, they look good again as do the calipers, even though they are OEM from 2006. Do they give me any more performance advantage over a solid rotor? Probably not. Again my setup does not stop on a dime. Hard to remember it running on 16s to tell you the truth and whether it ever did stop that hard.

I'm sure the 24s don't help, but neither does 3 tons of Tahoe barreling down the road. I wish it did, but I do have comfort knowing that my pads and rotors were new and coupled with the lower center of gravity and new shocks with the drop, I did make some improvements in that department that should help overall.

Put it this way, no matter which way you go with the brakes upgrade to NNBS or just replacing what you have, it will be new. New on an older truck will still be a win, because it is new, even if all the components around it are not. Just my thoughts on that question.

lol thanks for taking the time to put your thoughts out there on the subject. I think im going to pass on the nnbs brake swap but u never know with me. I like the idea of using a kit (R1 and PS both have a complete kit) I guess now I just need to decide if I want drill and slotted or just slotted

 

[Fosscore]

Yessir. As you may have noticed, I tend to expand in my replies rather than a one liner and 25 messages later the topic has been answered. Lol

For looks alone the drilled and slotted look great. At our level of performance with the Tahoe or CC, we won't be noticing any major Ferrari or Porsche differentials so that bench mark really IMHO is a non-starter.

Pics taken right now on this beautiful 80F day after a fresh touchless wash.

 

[jerryjoe28]

Yessir. As you may have noticed, I tend to expand in my replies rather than a one liner and 25 messages later the topic has been answered. Lol

For looks alone the drilled and slotted look great. At our level of performance with the Tahoe or CC, we won't be noticing any major Ferrari or Porsche differentials so that bench mark really IMHO is a non-starter.

Pics taken right now on this beautiful 80F day after a fresh touchless wash.

View attachment 74592

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FK it I like the way they look im in lol

 

[jerryjoe28]

btw that center cap game is on point! lol

 

[kwOH]

Yessir. As you may have noticed, I tend to expand in my replies rather than a one liner and 25 messages later the topic has been answered. Lol

For looks alone the drilled and slotted look great. At our level of performance with the Tahoe or CC, we won't be noticing any major Ferrari or Porsche differentials so that bench mark really IMHO is a non-starter.

Pics taken right now on this beautiful 80F day after a fresh touchless wash.

View attachment 74592

View attachment 74591

@Fosscore is the man when it comes to forum support, always good info. [emoji106][emoji106]


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[Tonyrodz]

Yessir. As you may have noticed, I tend to expand in my replies rather than a one liner and 25 messages later the topic has been answered. Lol

For looks alone the drilled and slotted look great. At our level of performance with the Tahoe or CC, we won't be noticing any major Ferrari or Porsche differentials so that bench mark really IMHO is a non-starter.

Pics taken right now on this beautiful 80F day after a fresh touchless wash.

View attachment 74592

View attachment 74591

How'd you get the ding? First pic. I'd be pissed if it was on mine!

 

[Fosscore]

Realized I hadn't replied to you guys.

btw that center cap game is on point! lol

@jerryjoe28

Thx man.

@Fosscore is the man when it comes to forum support, always good info. [emoji106][emoji106] @kwOH

Thx man. I try to do my best with what I know or have had experience with since being on here and learn from others with their knowledge and input.


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How'd you get the ding? First pic. I'd be pissed if it was on mine!

@Tonyrodz

That mofo happened one morning when the wind was honking. I was doing some NBS and NNBS truck cleaning and the gate in my carport to the backyard swung open and t-***** it right there. I was beyond pissed! But kicking the gate or a tire would not have been the best option. So I took the high road with an inanimate object and laughed it off....keeping calm was challenging. lol

Even worse is the other side in nearly the same spot has one that I inherited from long before I bought it. It was driven by many different people from 2006-2009 and they did not care about any part of it as it was just transportation and parked anywhere without regard for spacing or cleanliness. I started driving it full time in November 2009 and then bought it officially in February 2013 and then 2014 this forum got me in trouble with mods. There are some door dings as well that annoy the crap out of me. More than just one, but luckily the dark blue metallic paint and super glossy finish distract the average joe from seeing it. But I see them like a hawk sees a field mouse. I see every damn paint defect or rock chip, ggrrrrrr....

Wish I could say it was perfect, but it just needs some PDR love. I still wouldn't kick her out of the carport for looking dirty and I still get a high seeing her freshly washed. We are a weird bunch.

 

[Fosscore]

My 3rd brake light went out this week. This was the Dorman LED replacement that I had ordered almost exactly one year ago to replace the failing OEM light. I did some searching on TYF and Google to try and find a solution as all the functions of my tail lights were working.

This was a good thread to start. http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/nbs-third-brake-light.35348/page-2 and on another site someone made mention of the CHMSL fuse.

What? CHMSL = Center High Mount Stoplamp.

So I pulled out my owners manual to page 5-111 which has the schematic for the Instrument Panel Fuse Block on the driver's side which of course matches the sticker on the inside of that fuse panel. Sure enough there is a 10amp fuse labelled VEH CHMSL and noted as USAGE in the book for Vehicle and Trailer High Mounted Stoplamp.

I pulled the fuse out and sure enough it was toast. I popped in a new fuse and the light was back in business. Hopefully the fuse holds and was just weak and not related to some other issue. Fingers crossed that is the easy fix.

 

[05Single]

Wonder if that was the original chmsl fuse.

I remember the ding story. Should get a head by duty spring to hold that gate close.

 

[Fosscore]

It probably was the original fuse.

A 30lb kettle bell now keeps the gate from opening too far at the moment.

 

[BADRIDES]

My 3rd brake light went out this week. This was the Dorman LED replacement that I had ordered almost exactly one year ago to replace the failing OEM light. I did some searching on TYF and Google to try and find a solution as all the functions of my tail lights were working.
This was a good thread to start. http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/nbs-third-brake-light.35348/page-2 and on another site someone made mention of the CHMSL fuse.

What? CHMSL = Center High Mount Stoplamp.

So I pulled out my owners manual to page 5-111 which has the schematic for the Instrument Panel Fuse Block on the driver's side which of course matches the sticker on the inside of that fuse panel. Sure enough there is a 10amp fuse labelled VEH CHMSL and noted as USAGE in the book for Vehicle and Trailer High Mounted Stoplamp.

I pulled the fuse out and sure enough it was toast. I popped in a new fuse and the light was back in business. Hopefully the fuse holds and was just weak and not related to some other issue. Fingers crossed that is the easy fix.

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View attachment 75342

great info 2 know about the 3rd brake light. thank u sir